Masaharu Morimoto.

Masaharu MORIMOTO, Morimoto Philadelphia, PA.

Masaharu Morimoto is the new Rocky Balboa of Philly. The underdog for years, he rose through the ranks by assuming the super-hero persona of the Japanese Iron Chef on the popular cooking show of the same name. Gradually recognized For his talents over a six-year period at Nobu, he is now engineering his own destiny. The search for creative autonomy led him to the "City of Brotherly Love" and a partnership with Stephen Starr, prominent stage talent promoter, who later turned restaurateur. The new marriage is a surprising mix of two very different people having two things in common: confidence in their skills and willingness to take calculated risks. More importantly, coming to Philadelphia allowed Morimoto to escape the expectations of Nobu fans, allowing him to execute his unique style.

For those who missed Shogun, Iron Chef illustrates the ancient Japanese code of honor and respect, which can be achieved through competition in all aspects of life. Ryori No Tetsujin as it is known in Japan, or Iron Chef in English-speaking nations, features dubbed, Japonica-styled English hyperbole and has become one of the most successfully imported shows in America. Its popularity demonstrates the public's progressive enlightenment about the quality of food and the celebrity status of chefs in America.

In the summer of 2000, and later in a re-match, Masaharu Morimoto went head to head with Bobby Flay in perhaps the most popular episode of Iron Chef in America. The literal face-off was a new variation of "food fight" and caught the attention of the public and restaurant world, launching Morimoto even further into the spotlight.

Notoriety aside, this dramatic tale reveals little about the serious man who is somewhat of a mystery. He is at times inspiringly Japanese, then suddenly, completely and irrationally unconventional. A non-conformist, he traded his Iron Chef silver garb for a Ralph Lauren designed chef's jacket. There is also his diamond-studded left ear, atypically Japanese.

Morimoto's food is distinctly Japanese but free from the rigid boundaries of tradition. His innovative style has introduced the public to unparalleled flavors and opened the way for a new discovery of Japanese cuisine, even for the Japanese. Omakase, a traditional chef's tasting menu, is comprised of twelve to thirteen featured courses. Impressively, tofu is made a la minute, table side. Rice is actually polished on site as well, in less time than commercially produced rice, because Morimoto feels this method reduces loss of moisture and texture.

In addition, he employs very traditional, formal Japanese elements and cooking techniques; cooking with hot, polished stones, and a Japanese minimalist approach tantalizes all the senses, not just the palate. The understatement of Zen philosophy is evident in all the details. Even the private sake collection is adorned with labels that have been painted in the traditional Japanese script.

New flavors and new produce--just when we thought we'd seen it all, someone like Morimoto comes along and shows us there is still a whole big world to discover. His talents in creating food will inevitably serve as an inspirational delight for both diners and chefs alike.

Zensai Sakizuke (Serves 2)

directions

For the ceviche: Mix together all of the ingredients and marinate for 2 hours in the refrigerator.

For the salsa verde: Puree all the ingredients together and season.

For the sauces: Combine all the ingredients of each recipe respectively and reserve.

For the guacamole: Mix all the ingredients together except for the lobster tail.

For the sashimi: Blanch the lobster in dashi and cool. Wrap the lobster with a komatsuna leaf. Grate some fresh wasabi.

For the lobster inkonbu: Soak the konbu in water until softened. Wrap the lobster in the konbu and refrigerate for 3 hours. Serve with shaved karasumi.

For the onigara yaki: Mix the oil and soy sauce together. Brush the lobster with this mixture and season. Cook under a hot broiler to desired doneness.

To serve: Arrange on a large platter from the top left to right: the salsa; sashimi with fresh wasabi; soy sauce mixture; onigara yaki with yuzu; and salsa verde. On the bottom half, from left to right: the lobster with konbu; Thai chili sauce; lobster with guacamole; sesame sauce and ceviche with a "Johnny-jump up" blossom.

Champagne Schramsberg Sonoma, California 1997

ingredients


For the ceviche:
2 ounces lobster meat, minced
1 tablespoon Champagne vinegar
1 teaspoon red chili sauce
1/2 teaspoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon canola oil
1/2 small onion, peeled and minced
1/4 bunch chopped cilantro

For the salsa verde:
1/4 bunch basil leaves, blanched
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
1 teaspoon light soy sauce
1 teaspoon yuzu * juice
Salt and pepper to taste
For the salsa:
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1/4 small onion, peeled and minced
1/4 tomato, peeled, seeded, and minced
Zest and juice of 1/2 orange
1 1/2 teaspoon tobanjan **
Salt and pepper to taste

For the soy sauce:
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon dashi broth

For the sesame sauce:
2 tablespoons dashi broth
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 tablespoons sesame seeds
1/2 clove garlic, peeled and minced
1/4 inch piece ginger, peeled and minced
1/4 small onion, peeled and minced

For the Thai chili sauce:
1/2 small Thai bird chili, minced
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon fish sauce
2 sprigs cilantro, stemmed
and minced

For the guacamole:
1/2 avocado, peeled, pitted, and diced
1 small garlic clove, peeled and minced
1 teaspoon yuzu * juice
1/2 jalapeno, seeded and minced
Soy sauce to taste
1/4 tail of lobster, cooked

For the lobster in konbu:
2 ounches lobster meat
1 small piece konbu ***
Shaved karasumi ****

For the sashimi:
2 ounces lobster meat, sliced thin
1 komatsuna leaf *****
Fresh wasabi, peeled and grated

For the onigara yaki:
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 small lobster tail, cut in half
Salt, pepper and shichimi
togarashi ****** to taste

For the garnish:
Seaweed
Johnny-Jump ups
Assorted rice and dried soybeans

* Yuzu is a unique citrus fruit in Japan. Yuzu juice is available in
Japanese markets

** Tobanjan is spicy miso paste. Available in Japanese markets.

*** Konbu is dried kelp. Available in Asian markets.

**** Karasumi are dried mullet eggs, also known as bottarga. Available
in Japanese and Italian markets.

***** Komatsuna is a leafy green vegetable, similar to spinach.
Available in Japanese markets.

****** Shichimi togarashi is a 7-spice mixture sold in Japanese markets

Lobster Nabe with, Tofu (Serves 4)

directions

For the lobster nabe: In a large saucepan, simmer the lobster stock and add the carrots, sugar, soy sauce, scallion oil. Simmer until the carrots are tender. Acid the cornstarch to the sauce and bring it to a boil to thicken. Add the lobster. Season and simmer until the lobster is cooked to the desired doneness.

For the tofu: Prepare a steamer. Transfer the tofu into a serving bowl. Steam the tofu until warmed through.

To serve: Spoon some lobster nabe into a bowl, accompanied with a bowl of homemade tofu, and garnish with chervil.

Sanigovese

Stolpman Vineyard

Santa Barbara, California 1999

ingredients


For the lobster nabe:
2 cups lobster stock
1 carrot, peeled and grated
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon scallion infused oil
4 lobster tails, shelled and meat chopped
1 teaspoon cornstarch dissolved in
1 teaspoon water
Salt and pepper to taste

For the dish:
Fresh soft tofu *
Chervil sprigs

* Available in Asian markets.

Lobster Wrapped in Yuba with Sauce Americane (Serves 2)

directions

For the sauce americane: In a saucepan, heat the oil and saute the shallots. Deglaze with the brandy and reduce until almost dry. Acid the lobster stock and simmer until reduced by half. Strain and add the cream and reduce slightly. Whisk in the butter; mix in the truffle, season, and keep warm.

For the sauteed scallions: In a saute pan, melt the butter and saute the scallions and ginger until tender. Adjust seasoning. Keep warm.

For the shallot marmalade: In a saute pan, melt the butter and saute the shallots until translucent over low heat. Add the sugar and oyster sauce. Allow the shallots to caramelize slightly and season. Keep warm.

For the lobster: Prepare a hot steamer. In a large bowl, combine the lobster, scallops, shrimp, egg white and potato starch; mix well to combine. Season and set aside. Arrange a yuba wrapper on a flat work surface and spoon the filling across the bottom half. Roll tightly to enclose the filling. Lay the yuba parcels, seam-side down, on a steamer rack and steam until cooked.

To serve: Spoon some sauce americane onto a plate and place a yuba parcel in the center. Spoon some shallot marmalade and sauteed scallions on top and garnish with fried yuba strips.

Pinol Noir, Gevrey-Chamberlin

Louis Latour

Burgundy, France 1998

ingredients


For the sauce americane:
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
5 small shallots, peeled and minced
1/2 cup brandy
1 cup lobster stock
1/3 cup heavy cream
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon minced truffle
Salt and pepper to taste

For the sauteed scallions:
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
3 scallions, julienned
1/2-inch piece ginger, peeled and julienned
Salt and pepper to taste

For the shallot marmalade:
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 tablespoon oyster sauce
Salt and pepper to taste

For the lobster:
2 lobster tails, shelled and rougly chopped
2 sea scallops, roughly chopped
2 shrimp, shelled and roughly chopped
1 egg white
2 teaspoons potato starch dissolved
in 2 teaspoons cold water
Salt and pepper to taste
2 sheets yuba *, softened

For the garnish:
Fried yuba * strips

* Yuba is a thin sheet of skin which forms in the process of making
soymilk. It is dried and used as a wrapper in Japanese cooking.
Available in Asian Markets.

Lobster Epice (Serves 8)

directions

For the lobster: Mix all the dry ingredients together. Brush the flesh side of the lobster halves with oil and generously coat with spice mix. Heat some oil in a large roasting pan and sear the lobster spice side down in the pan. Turn and finish cooking to the desired doneness.

To serve: Set two lobster halves on a plate and sprinkle with some of the remaining spice mix; garnish with micro greens, shaved udo, bonito, and karasumi.

Riesling

Lingenfelder

Rhinefalz, Germany 1999

ingredients


For the lobster:
3 tablespoons paprika
1/3 cup red chili powder
2 teaspoons ground cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon ground cumin
2 tablespoons ground black pepper
2 teaspoons ground coriander
2 teaspoons ginger powder
2 teaspoons garlic powder
2 tablespoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons chicken bouillon powder
8 1 1/2-pound lobsters, split
Vegetable oil, as needed

For the garnish:
Micro greens
Shaved udo *
Bonito flakes
Shaved karasumi **

* Udo is a long, white vegetable which tastes similar to radish celery.

** Karsumi are dried mullet eggs, also known as bottarga. Available in
Japanese or Italian specialty markets.

Chilled Lobster Noodles with Octopus and Abalone (Serves 6)

directions

For the lobster noodles: In a food processor combine the lobster meat, egg white, potato starch, and yam. Pulse to form a smooth puree. Transfer to a pastry bag fitted with a small tip. In a large saucepan, bring the dashi to a simmer. Pipe the lobster puree into the dashi, forming long, thin noodles, and simmer until cooked through. Carefully remove the cooked lobster noodles and drain. Gently toss the lobster noodle with the olive oil garlic, tomatoes, and basil. Season and keep chilled.

For the octopus and abalone: In a medium bowl, toss all of the ingredients together and season.

To serve: Spoon some lobster noodles in a bowl that is chilled on ice. Spoon some octopus and abalone mix on top; garnish with caviar, basil, and wheat noodles.

Cortese

Principessa

Piedmont, Italy 2000

ingredients


For the lobster noodles:
6 lobster tails, shelled
3 egg whites
3 teaspoons potato starch dissolved in 3
teaspoons cold water
3 tablespoons peeled and grated mountain yam *
1 quart dashi broth
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 small clove garlic, peeled and grated
2 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced
Salt and pepper to taste

For the octopus and abalone:
2 small abalone, shelled, pounded, salted,
steamed, and cut into strips
6 abalone livers, salted, steamed, and cut into strips
12 baby octopuses, cooked and cut into thin strips
1 tablespoon extra vigin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Osetra caviar
Micro basil
Dry wheat noodles

* Available in Asian markets.

Lobster Tempura Roll with Gorgonzola Sauce (Serves 2)

directions

For the Gorgonzola sauce: In a medium saucepan, whisk the cheese and cream together over gentle heat until melted. Mix in the cornstarch until well combined. Simmer until thickened and season.

For the lobster tempura roll: Pre-heat a deep Fryer to 350 degrees. Place a sheet of non on a sushi mat and spread a thin layer of sushi rice on the bottom third of the nori. Lay a strip of lobster in the center. Using a sushi mat, gently roll the non; dampen the last quarter inch lightly with water to seal.

In a large bowl, mix the egg yolks into the flour, adding ice water as needed to form a rough, lumpy batter. Dip each non roll in the tempura batter. Fry until pale golden. Drain the oil; trim off the ends of the roll and cut in half. Skewer each roll with bamboo sticks.

To serve: Spoon some Gorgonzola sauce on the plate. Lay the lobster tempura rolls in the center, and garnish with yellow bell pepper strips and mitsuba leaves.

Pinot Noir

Domain Drouhin

Willamette, Oregon 1999

ingredients


For the Gorgonzola sauce:
3 ounces Gorgonzola cheese
3/4 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon cornstarch dissolved
in 1 teaspoon cold water
Salt, pepper, and sugar to taste

For the lobster tempura roll:
3 sheets nori
1 cup cooked sushi rice
2 lobster tails, shelled and cut
into 3 long strips each
2 cups all-purpose flour, sifted
2 egg yolks
2 cups ice cold water

For the garnish:
Yellow bell pepper strips
Mitsuba * leaves

* Mitsuba is a Japanese herb resembling parsley. Available in Japanese
markets.