Masa in the limelight; Masa (mah-sah): the Spanish word for "dough": in practice, the soaked and ground corn meal used to make tamales, tortillas, sopes, tostadas, huaraches and other antojitos, or appetizers.

THE CAUSTIC ACTION OF CALCIUM HYDROXIDE, or lime, is what separates masa from a lump of indigestible ground corn. To create lime, calcium carbonate (CaCO3), naturally occurring in limestone, coral, chalk and shellfish shells, is heated, a process that releases carbon dioxide and results in the formation of calcium oxide (CaO). In this form, lime can be heated to 4661 degrees Fahrenheit without melting. Until the widespread use of electric lights, theater technicians took advantage of calcium oxide's high melting point, heating it with a flame until it emitted a bright white light, which could be aimed at a stage--hence the term "limelight." We can only assume that extreme care was taken to keep the limelights perfectly dry, because when calcium oxide comes into contact with even the slightest amount of moisture, it rapidly heats, bubbles and releases a large amount of high-temperature steam. Lime in this form is referred to as unslaked lime, meaning that its fundamental thirst for moisture has not been satisfied, or slaked. Calcium hydroxide (CaH2O2), the form used to make masa, is calcium oxide which has been treated with water. After the aforementioned chemical reaction causes all the moisture in calcium oxide to evaporate, you're left with a powder known as slaked lime, or pickling lime.

Masa is made from dried field or dent corn, a variety with far less sugar than the sweet corn that graces the American table. Field corn has a very thick outer skin that must be chemically loosened and removed to make the kernels edible. When boiled with corn in a 5% solution for about 20 minutes, slaked lime loosens the indigestible skin surrounding each kernel. Later on, removing the skin will help create a relatively uniform, soft dough. Vitamin B-3, or niacin, is also unbound by this process, making it possible for the human body to absorb it. After the initial lime treatment, the mixture, known as nixtamal, is left overnight. Then the corn is drained and rinsed in fresh water, and the skins that float to the top are discarded. The resultant swollen kernels look identical to what is known in the American South as hominy; however, for masa, the nutrient-rich hulls are left intact, whereas hominy's preparation calls for their removal.

Traditionally, the nixtamal is ground on a metate, which looks like a miniature, low-slung coffee table made of volcanic rock, with a sloping depression in the center or off to one side. A grinding stone called a mano (literally, "hand") or metlapil, also made of volcanic rock, is used to crush the kernels against the metate's rough surface. The fineness of the grind depends on the intended use of the dough: masa that is intended for tortillas is finely ground, while masa for tamales is more coarsely ground. Of course, in modern kitchens and tortilla factories, mechanized grain mills and food processors have replaced the metate, but in the more isolated parts of Mexico, patting out perfectly round and flat tortillas by hand is still considered a valuable skill, one that is taught to young girls shortly after they are old enough to walk. Despite its seeming simplicity, the art of torear is perfected over the course of many years, and it is not easily picked up by even the most accomplished gringo chefs. For those who do not find themselves living in rural Mexico, tortilla presses, like grain mills, are inexpensive, widely available and easy to use.

Masa tastes and behaves best on the day it is made, but very few modern chefs have the space, time or expertise to make it properly. "Fresh masa is hands-down the best," wrote Rick Bayless in his 1996 book Rick Bayless's Mexican Kitchen (Scribner), "but it's close to impossible to make at home, it's an effort to find in most communities and it's easily perishable." Indeed, Chefs Aaron Sanchez and Richard Sandoval, who created a number of recipes using masa for this story, both reported with regret that making masa from scratch was simply not practical for their very busy restaurants. In most cases, the chefs instead use masa harina, dried and powdered masa that can be easily reconstituted with hot water. "I'll give you an idea how far masa in this country has come," says Sanchez. "It used to be that you could only get all-purpose masa, but now you can get all these different grinds--coarse for tamales, finer for tortillas," he explains. "I make every masa product in my restaurant every day. I love it. It's like a ritual to me."

A CENTERED SUPERSTAR

AARON SANCHEZ

CENTRICO & PALADAR

NEW YORK, NEW YORK

AARON SANCHEZ HAS JUST TURNED 30, BUT HE'S ALREADY RACKED UP MORE diverse experiences than many chefs twice his age. From a teenage stint at K-Paul's in New Orleans to hosting a television show, writing a cookbook, developing lines of cookware and apparel and, oh yeah, owning and running two restaurants, the young chef is in seemingly constant motion.

Sanchez was born in El Paso, Texas, and spent his early childhood years watching and helping his mother, Zarela Martinez, cook traditional Mexican dishes for her catering business. Before her son was 10 years old, the family had moved to New York. Martinez eventually opened her first Manhattan restaurant, Zarela, which continues to offer an antidote to the wan bean burritos that had long defined Mexican cuisine in the United States. In the early 1990's, she enrolled her son in a master course taught by Paul Prudhomme, who would become Sanchez's culinary mentor and first serious employer.

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"He taught me how to taste," says Sanchez. "He has one of the most amazing palates. He's all about big flavors, and proper seasoning, and he taught me a lot, both in the kitchen and as a man. He's an example of someone 100% dedicated to his craft."

After working in New Orleans, Sanchez enrolled in the College of Culinary Arts at Johnson & Wales in Providence, Rhode Island, and after a year of study, returned to New York. His first job was at Patria, under Douglas Rodriguez, a pioneer of Nuevo Latino cooking. Sanchez later helped his friend and fellow Patria alum Alex Garcia to open Erizo Latino, then spent a year cooking with chef Reed Hearon at Rose Pistola, in San Francisco. He returned again to New York, becoming executive chef at Fernando Saralegui's L-Ray, where he served a "Gulf rim" menu of dishes inspired by Louisiana, Texas, Cuba and Mexico. From there he took one more executive chef position, at the solidly Cuban Isla, before opening his own Pan-Latin restaurant, Paladar, with partner Eamon Furlong. At roughly the same time, Sanchez was tapped to co-host a series of episodes of "Melting Pot" on the Food Network, with Alex Garcia.

"The Food Network is probably one of the most important things to happen to American culture in a long time, just because it's gotten many more people to enjoy cooking," he says. "I'm a product of my mother's and my grandmother's kitchens, and my food is not very hard to get your hands around, but to be able to have that kind of stage to share my passion, I was very fortunate." More recently, Sanchez returned to the Food Network, as a competitor on "Iron Chef America." Sounding slightly like one of the actors who shared his People magazine "50 Most Beautiful People" spotlight, Sanchez says, "It was an incredible experience just to be chosen to be a competitor on the series, and a huge honor to be pitted against Morimoto. It was really nerve-wracking, but very invigorating. The show has become this very bloodthirsty, competitive thing, very mano a mano, and it's taken very seriously among chefs. So that was on my mind, not only to have a good performance, but to perform well in front of my fellow chefs." The judges declared a tie between the young Mexican chef and the seasoned Japanese veteran; when he's reminded of the outcome, Sanchez muses, "That was able to tie Morimoto was a thrill. It left a little suspense, so hopefully I'll have the chance to go at him again."

MODERN MEXICAN IN CITY, MOUNTAINS AND SAND

RICHARD SANDOVAL

MAYA * NEW YORK, NEW YORK

HE'S ESTABLISHED CHARISMATIC RESTAURANTS IN NEW YORK, SAN FRANCISCO, Denver, Las Vegas and Washington, DC. Now Richard Sandoval is preparing to introduce his modern Mexican cuisine to Dubai, one of the seven United Arab Emirates.

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"They've turned sand into diamonds [in Dubai]," says Sandoval of the emirate's burgeoning tourist industry. "With very few natural resources, they've created a city with the best hotels, the best of everything. It's like the Las Vegas of the Middle East." Sandoval was approached by members of the royal family of Dubai, who had developed a taste for Mexican cuisine in their travels, and who saw Sandoval as the best man to bring it to their backyard. The Middle Eastern outpost of Maya had initially been slated for a 2003 opening, but the ongoing wars in Afghanistan and Iraq necessitated a two-year delay. Plans for the waterfront restaurant, which will be part of the Le Royal Meridien Beach Resort and Spa, are now being put into motion with the help of the restaurant's management team.

"It's great--I have the support of their whole hotel staff, and I'll send one of my chefs and a general manager, plus some of the younger guys from my company," explains Sandoval. "It's a once in a lifetime experience. They're pretty excited."

Sandoval got his own start in the kitchen of his father's Mexico City restaurant, asking questions of the chef and absorbing as much information as possible. As a student at the University of New Mexico, Sandoval let his interest in the restaurant business take a temporary backseat to his passion for tennis. He played on the pro circuit for a year, then transferred to the University of Houston to earn a degree in hotel and restaurant management. He also completed a degree at the Culinary Institute of America, then returned to Mexico City to open Villa Fiore, an Italian restaurant, with his father. He ran it for four years, in that time earning Mexico's Toque D'Oro award.

Hungry for a greater challenge in what he calls "the most competitive restaurant city in the world", Sandoval then moved to New York. He soon opened Savann and, later, Savann Est, on that city's Upper East and Upper West Sides. While successful, the restaurants' cuisine proved ultimately unsatisfying to the young chef, who longed to introduce the city to the type of cliche-busting Mexican restaurant it had historically lacked.

In early 1997, Maya made its New York debut; soon after, Ruth Reichl gave it a two-star review in the New York Times, declaring, "The food at Maya is unlike just about anything else being served in New York City ... After a single breathtaking bite of rock shrimp ceviche, you understand that the chef is on a mission." Sandoval followed that success by opening a branch of Maya in San Francisco, which earned three stars from the San Francisco Chronicle. His third restaurant was a more casual Mexican concept, Tamayo, in Denver. In spring 2003, Sandoval joined forces with legendary opera singer Placido Domingo to open Pampano, in New York. Domingo had operated a Spanish and a Mexican restaurant in Pampano's midtown Manhattan building, but it took Sandoval's touch to make the location a success.

"[Domingo] was a regular customer at Maya, and one day he came and asked me if I would like to open a restaurant featuring seafood from the coast of Mexico. I loved the idea of two artists from different mediums working together," the chef explains. "He is a very busy man, and it's very difficult to get him to sit down for more than a few minutes, but he trusts me." Domingo is also a partner in Zengo, Sandoval's Latin-Asian concept, with locations in Denver and Washington, DC.

With a grand total of eleven restaurants to date and three more in development, including a small hotel restaurant in Mexico City, Sandoval feels he is getting closer to achieving his goals.

"From my perspective, Mexican food in this country has really taken on a life of its own," he says. "Five or six years ago, there was a lot more resistance to paying more money for upscale Mexican food. People used to think that Mexican food shouldn't be any more expensive than a taco stand. Now, they're starting to understand, and I think that helped to open some of those doors."

RELATED ARTICLE: Huitlacoche Tamales (Serves 6)

AARON SANCHEZ

Centrico Morgarita (++)

++1 1/2 ounces Herradura Silver Tequila, 1 ounce freshly squeezed lime juice, 1/2 ounce agave nectar; shake with ice and strain into margarita glass.

directions

For the tamales: Combine masa harina and water and stir until well combined. In bowl of mixer fitted with paddle, beat shortening until creamy and fluffy. Add masa and stock and mix until incorporated. In food processor fitted with metal blade, puree huitlacoche and cilantro until smooth, adding water as necessary. Transfer to masa mixture and stir until well blended. Season with salt and pepper. Spread one husk on work surface and place about 1/2 cup mixture in center. Fold over long sides of husk, then fold pointed end up, securing with string. Repeat with remaining husks and mixture. In double-boiler with steamer insert, bring one to two inches water to boil. Place tamales in steamer basket, open end up, and steam about 45 minutes. Remove from steamer and let rest five minutes.

For the picarillo: Preheat grill to medium-high. Place corn on grill and cook until charred on all sides, about five to seven minutes. Remove from grill and, when cool enough to handle, cut kernels from cob and set aside, discarding cob. In saute pan, heat oil over high heat and add onions and garlic. Saute three minutes, until soft and golden brown, then add poblano, tomato and cayenne. Cook three minutes, then add butter and cilantro. Toss over high heat until butter has melted and coats other ingredients. Season with salt and pepper.

To serve: Remove tamales from husks, arrange on plate with picarillo and garnish with cheese. Serve immediately.

ingredients

For the tamales:

1 cup masa harina for tamales
3/4 cup warm water
1/2 cup vegetable shortening
1/2 cup chicken stock
1 pound fresh or canned huitlacoche*
1/2 cup coarsely chopped cilantro
12 dried corn husks, soaked in warm water 30 minutes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the corn picarillo:

2 ears corn, husks removed
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 white onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 poblano pepper, roasted, peeled, seeded and finely chopped
1 medium tomato, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon finely chopped cilantro
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Grated queso fresco**

*Corn fungus with large soft kernels and silvery black skin. It has a slightly coarse texture and mushroom-like flavor. Available in Mexican markets, or through The Chef's Garden, [phone] or www.chefsgarden.com.

**A mild, crumbly cow's milk cheese. Available through www.cheesesupply.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: Tacos with Shredded Pork (Serves 10)

AARON SANCHEZ

Jala-pina (++)

++In glass jar, combine 1 peeled, chopped pineapple, I chopped jalapeno pepper, 1/2 cup freshly squeezed lime juice, 1/2 cup sugar and 1 750ml bottle Herradura Silver Tequila. Refrigerate overnight, strain, shake with ice, strain and serve.

directions

For the pork: Place pork in shallow dish. Combine remaining ingredients and rub into pork. Cover and refrigerate four hours, turning once or twice to keep meat moist. Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Wrap pork in aluminum foil and place in roasting pan. Bake, turning once, until tender, two to three hours. Let cool ten minutes and shred with fork. Keep warm.

For the pickled onions: In saute pan, heat oil over medium-low heat. Add onions, oregano and lemon juice and cook, stirring frequently, until onion is softened. Season with salt and pepper and let cool to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

For the corn tortillas: In bowl, combine masa harina and water and stir until well combined. Shape masa into ten 1 1/4-inch balls and set aside under dampened paper towels. Heat griddle or cast-iron skillet over high heat and, using paper towel, wipe small quantity of oil across surface. Line tortilla press with plastic and press masa ball into thin tortilla measuring five to six inches across. Carefully remove plastic and transfer tortilla to griddle. Cook one to two minutes, or until underside is speckled brown. Turn and cook until second side is speckled brown, about 1 1/2 minutes. Wrap tortilla in paper towels and repeat with remaining tortillas, stacking them in the towels. Fill tortillas with pork, top with onions and garnish with micro arugula. Serve immediately.

ingredients

For the pork:

5 pounds pork shoulder or Boston butt
1 cup orange juice
2 tablespoons white vinegar
2 tablespoons achiote paste*
4 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
Salt to taste

For the pickled onions:

1/4 cup olive oil
2 red onions, peeled and thinly sliced
2 tablespoons fresh Mexican oregano leaves
Juice of 1 lemon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the corn tortillas:

2 cups masa harina for tortillas
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons warm water
1 tablespoon oil

For the garnish:

Micro arugula

*Paste of ground annatto seeds, spices and tomato. Available through Mexgrocer, [phone] or www.mexgrocer.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: Hoja Santa Soup with Masa Dumplings (Serves 4)

AARON SANCHEZ

Menta Magico (++)

++Blend 1/2 cup mint leaves and 3 cups lime juice; strain. Add 2 cups water, 2/3 cup agave nectar, and 2 cups Captain Morgan Spiced Rum; shake with ice and serve.

directions

For the masa dumplings: In bowl, combine masa harina and water and stir until well combined. Add hoja santa, lard and salt and mix thoroughly. Divide dough into one-inch balls and press finger into center of each to make indentation. Place on sheet pan lined with waxed paper and cover with damp paper towels until ready to use.

For the roasted tomato salsa: Preheat broiler to high heat. Toss tomatoes, onions and pepper in olive oil to coat and season with salt and pepper. Place vegetables under broiler 10 minutes, turning once, until charred and blistered. Remove from heat. Peel jalapeno and transfer to blender or food processor fitted with metal blade, along with tomatoes, onions, garlic, cilantro and salt and pepper to taste. Puree until smooth. Refrigerate until ready to use.

For the salsa verde: Combine all ingredients in blender or food processor fitted with metal blade and puree until smooth. Refrigerate until ready to use.

For the soup: In food processor fitted with metal blade, combine hoja santa, cilantro, parsley, epazote, chili, tomatillos, onions, garlic and one cup stock. Puree until smooth. Transfer to saucepan, stir in remaining stock and bring to simmer. Add fava beans, zucchini and dumplings and cook 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Ladle soup into shallow bowl, arranging dumplings indentation-side up. Garnish indentations with roasted tomato salsa, salsa verde and cheese and serve immediately.

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ingredients

For the masa dumplings:

3/4 cup masa harina for tortillas
2/3 cup warm water
1/4 cup finely chopped hoja santa leaf*
1 tablespoon lard
1/2 teaspoon salt

For the roasted tomato salsa:

4 Roma or 2 beefsteak tomatoes, halved lengthwise
1/2 white onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 jalapeno pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped
1/2 bunch cilantro
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the salsa verde:

8 tomatillos, husks removed, rinsed and coarsely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped
1/2 serrano pepper, coarsely chopped
1/2 bunch cilantro
Juice of 1 lime
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the hoja santa soup:

2 fresh hoja santa leaves, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup coarsely chopped cilantro
1/4 cup coarsely chopped parsley
1/4 cup coarsely chopped epazote leaves**
1 serrano chili, stemmed, seeded and quartered
2 large tomatillos, husks removed, rinsed and coarsely chopped
1/2 small white onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
3 cups chicken stock
1 cup fava beans, skins removed
2 medium zucchini, coarsely chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Grated queso fresco***

*The large, peppery leaves of the hoja santa plant are chopped and added to dishes or used as wrappers. Tarragon may be substituted.

**Herb common in Mexican cooking. Dried epazote may be substituted. Available through Penzey's Spices, [phone] or www.penzeys.com.

***A mild, crumbly cow's milk cheese. Available through www.cheesesupply.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: Sopes with Chorizo and Potato (Serves 4)

AARON SANCHEZ

Berry Sangria (++)

++Lightly mash 1/3 cup each raspberries, blackberries, blueberries and strawberries with 2/3 cup sugar and let sit one hour. Add 5 cups red wine, 1 cup white rum, 1/2 cup orange juice, and 1/2 cup cranberry juice. Pour over ice and serve.

directions

For the chicken broth: Combine chicken, giblets, carrots, celery, onion, squash and garlic in stockpot and add just enough cold water to cover, about three quarts. Add remaining ingredients and bring slowly to boil. Reduce heat and simmer one hour, uncovered, skimming occasionally. Add water as necessary to keep chicken covered. Carefully remove chicken from pot and transfer to work surface. When cool, pull meat from bones and refrigerate for another use. Strain broth through fine-mesh sieve and keep warm.

For the chorizo and potato filling: In saucepan, cover potatoes with cold water, add salt and bring to boil. Simmer until tender, about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, heat oil in saute pan over medium heat. Add chorizo and saute until fat is rendered and chorizo is crispy, about five minutes. Add onions, garlic and peppers and continue to cook until softened, about eight minutes. Stir in broth and simmer briefly, then add drained potatoes, green onions and cilantro. Continue simmering until liquid is almost evaporated, about three more minutes, and season to taste. Keep warm.

For the sopes: Heat heavy non-stick pan or griddle over medium heat. In bowl, combine masa harina and water to form moist dough, adding more water if necessary. Divide dough into 1 1/4-inch diameter balls. Place one ball between two pieces plastic wrap and flatten by hand into thick patty about 2 1/2-inches across and 1/2-inch thick. Remove from plastic and pinch edges to form rim. Cook about five minutes on each side until dough becomes firm. Transfer to plate and repeat with remaining dough. In tall-sided pot or deep skillet, heat two inches canola oil to 375 degrees. Cook sopes in oil until just crisp but not browned, about 30 seconds. Drain on paper towels and season with salt. Fill sopes with chorizo mixture, garnish with cilantro and chives, and serve immediately.

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ingredients

For the chicken broth:

3 1/2 pounds chicken, with giblets
2 carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 ribs celery, coarsely chopped
1 white onion, peeled and quartered
1 chayote squash, halved
1 head garlic, halved
1 small bunch parsley
1 small bunch cilantro
1 tablespoon dried Mexican oregano
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon black peppercorns

For the chorizo and potato filling:

2 Idaho potatoes, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 pound chorizo sausage, casings removed, coarsely chopped
1 white onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 red bell pepper, coarsely chopped
1 green bell pepper, coarsely chopped
1 yellow bell pepper, coarsely chopped
1 cup chicken broth, from above
1 green onion, finely chopped
1/2 cup finely chopped cilantro
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the sopes:

1 1/2 cups masa harina for tortillas
1 cup warm water
Salt to taste

For the garnish:

Coarsely chopped cilantro
Chives

RELATED ARTICLE: Chipotle Shrimp with Black Bean Huaraches (Serves 4)

RICHARD SANDOVAL

Savennieres, Le Clos Saces

Nicolas Joly

Loire, France 2002

directions

For the black bean puree: In large pot, heat lard and bacon until lard melts and bacon renders some fat. Add onions and epazote and cook until onions are softened. Add stock, cover and bring to boil. Stir in beans, lower heat and simmer until beans are very soft, about two hours. Season with salt and pepper. Puree in batches in food processor fitted with metal blade. Adjust consistency with more stock if necessary. Set aside and keep warm.

For the chipotle chili sauce: In food processor fitted with metal blade, combine onions, tomatoes, chilis, crema fresca, goat cheese, honey and cilantro. Puree mixture and strain through fine-mesh sieve. Season with salt and pepper and refrigerate until ready to use.

For the huaraches: In tall-sided pot, heat oil to 365 degrees. In bowl, combine masa harina and water. Knead, adding more water if necessary to form soft dough. Divide dough into four balls, cover with paper towels and set aside. Lay a sheet of plastic wrap across bottom plate of tortilla press. Place one dough ball on plastic, cover with another piece of plastic, and press dough into 1/8-inch thick tortilla. Remove top plastic, invert onto one hand and remove other piece of plastic. Transfer tortilla to parchment paper and cover with paper towel. Repeat with remaining dough, stacking tortillas between sheets of parchment paper. In center of each tortilla, spread two tablespoons black bean puree, leaving 1/2-inch margin. Top with two tablespoons cheese and moisten border with water. Fold tortilla in half and pinch to seal edge completely. Working in batches, slide huaraches into oil and cook until lightly browned and crisp, about three minutes, turning once. Transfer to paper towel-lined sheet tray and keep warm.

For the shrimp: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In saute pan, heat butter and oil over medium heat. Season shrimp with salt and pepper and add to pan. Add tequila and carefully ignite. When flames subside, stir in chipotle sauce. Transfer to oven and bake until shrimp are just cooked through, about three minutes.

To serve: Arrange huarache on plate with shrimp and black bean puree. In bowl, toss frisee with lemon, salt and pepper and place atop huarache. Serve immediately.

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ingredients

For the black bean puree:

1/2 tablespoon lard
1 ounce bacon, finely chopped
1/2 white onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
1/2 bunch epazote leaves*
2 quarts chicken stock
4 ounces dried black beans
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the chipotle chili sauce:

1/4 small white onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
1/2 small tomato, seeded and coarsely chopped
1 chipotle chili in adobo sauce**
4 ounces crema fresca***
1 ounce soft goat cheese
1 1/2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon finely chopped cilantro
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the huaraches:

1 quart canola oil
1 cup masa harina for tortillas
1/2 cup lukewarm water
1/2 cup black bean puree, from above
2 ounces shredded Gouda cheese

For the shrimp:

2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon canola oil
20 jumbo shrimp, peeled
2 tablespoons tequila
Chipotle chili sauce, from above
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

To serve:

Frisee
Lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

*Herb common in Mexican cooking. Dried epazote may be substituted. Available through Penzey's Spices, [phone] or www.penzeys.com.

**Available through Mexgrocer, [phone] or www.mexgrocer.com.

***May substitute creme fraiche.

RELATED ARTICLE: Lobster Tacos with Black Bean Puree and Arbol Chili Salsa (Serves 4)

RICHARD SANDOVAL

Pinot Gris

Bethel Heights Vineyard

Salem, Oregon 2004

directions

For the black bean puree: Combine water, beans and onions in saucepan and bring to boil over high heat. Reduce heat to simmer and cook until beans are tender, about 1 1/2 hours. Drain beans and onions and transfer to food processor fitted with metal blade. Puree until smooth and add salt. Keep warm.

For the corn tortillas: In bowl, combine masa harina and water. Knead, adding more water as necessary to form soft dough. Divide dough into four balls, cover with paper towels and set aside. Heat cast-iron pan over high heat. Meanwhile, lay sheet of plastic wrap on bottom plate of tortilla press. Place one ball on plastic, cover with another piece of plastic, and press dough into 1/8-inch thick tortilla. Remove top plastic and invert onto one hand. Remove other piece of plastic and transfer tortilla to pan. Cook until tortilla releases from pan and bottom is speckled brown, about 30 to 40 seconds. Turn tortilla over and cook until second side is speckled brown, another 30 seconds. Cover with paper towel. Repeat with remaining dough, stacking tortillas under the towel.

For the arbol chili sauce: Heat oil in saute pan over medium-high heat. Add chili, onion and garlic and saute briefly. Stir in tomato paste and cook 30 seconds more. Add cream, bring to boil, lower heat and simmer five minutes. Remove from heat, stir in cilantro and salt, transfer to food processor fitted with metal blade and puree until smooth. Keep warm.

To serve: Melt butter over medium heat. Add lobster, warm gently and season with salt. In heavy skillet over medium-high heat, warm tortillas. Fill shells with black bean puree and lobster, drizzle with arbol chili sauce, and top with avocado and cilantro.

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ingredients

For the black bean puree:

2 quarts water
1/2 cup dried black beans
1/4 yellow onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
Salt to taste

For the corn tortillas:

1/2 cup masa harina for tortillas
1/4 cup lukewarm water

For the arbol chili sauce:

1 tablespoon canola oil
1 dried arbol chili, seeded and crumbled
1/4 yellow onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon finely chopped cilantro
Salt to taste

To serve:

1 tablespoon butter
1 2-pound lobster, steamed, shelled, meat coarsely chopped
Corn tortillas, from above
Black bean puree, from above

Peeled and sliced avocado
Finely chopped cilantro leaves
Salt to taste

RELATED ARTICLE: Sopes with Chicken Tinga, Poblano Chili Rajas and Shredded Beef (Serves 10)

RICHARD SANDOVAL

Rioja, Glorioso Reserva

Bodegas Palacio

Rioja, Spain 2000

directions

For the sopes: In bowl, combine masa harina and water. Knead until soft dough forms, adding more water if necessary. Form dough into 30 four-inch discs, each about 1/4-inch thick. Heat cast-iron pan over high heat. Place sope in pan and cook until speckled brown and easily turned, about 10 to 15 seconds. Turn and cook until second side is speckled brown. Remove from pan and while still hot, pinch edges to form 1/2-inch high rim. Repeat with remaining sopes and set aside.

For the tomatillo sauce: Heat oil in saute pan over medium-high heat. Add tomatillos and onions and sauce until softened and lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add garlic, chilis and salt and pepper and continue to cook until garlic is lightly browned, about two minutes. Adjust seasoning and set aside.

For the shredded beef: In saucepan, combine water, steak, onions, garlic, peppercorns and bay leaf. Bring to boil, lower heat and simmer 45 minutes or until steak is tender. Remove steak and let cool. Shred steak with fork, combine with tomatillo sauce and season with salt. Keep warm.

For the sweet chipotle chili sauce: Heat oil in saucepan over medium heat. Add onions and garlic and cook until softened, about five minutes. Stir in remaining ingredients and simmer, covered, 20 minutes. Transfer to food processor fitted with metal blade and puree. Strain through fine-mesh sieve, adjust seasoning and keep warm.

For the chicken tinga: In saucepan, bring water to simmer. Add chicken and poach until just cooked, about 10 minutes. Remove chicken, let cool, and shred with fork. In saute pan, heat oil over medium heat, add onions and cook until softened, about five minutes. Stir in chipotle sauce and chicken and cook two minutes longer. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm.

For the poblano chilis: In saute pan, heat oil over medium heat. Add onions and cook until softened, about five minutes. Stir in chilis and cream and simmer until thickened. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm.

To serve: Divide beef, chicken and chili mixtures among sopes and top with cilantro, crema fresca and Cotija cheese. Serve immediately.

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ingredients

For the sopes:

4 cups masa harina for tortillas
2 1/4 cups warm water

For the tomatillo sauce:

1 tablespoon canola oil
1 pound tomatillos, husks removed, rinsed and thinly sliced
1/2 yellow onion, peeled and thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1/4 serrano chili, seeded and finely chopped
1 tablespoon finely chopped cilantro leaves
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the shredded beef:

3 cups water
10 ounces skirt steak
1/4 white onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed
5 black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
Tomatillo sauce, from above
Salt to taste

For the sweet chipotle chili sauce:

1 tablespoon canola oil
1/2 white onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
2 chipotle chilis in adobo sauce*
1/2 cup orange juice
1/2 cup sherry vinegar
1/2 cup tomato paste
1/2 cup ketchup
3 tablespoons honey
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the chicken tinga:

1 quart water
10 ounces boneless, skinless chicken breast
2 teaspoons canola oil
1/2 white onion, peeled and thinly sliced
1 cup sweet chipotle chili sauce, from above
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the poblano chilis:

2 teaspoons canola oil
1/2 white onion, peeled and thinly sliced
4 fresh poblano chilis, roasted, peeled, seeded and julienned
1/4 cup heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Finely chopped cilantro
Crema fresca**
Grated Cotija cheese***

*Available at Mexgrocer, [phone] or www.mexgrocer.com.

**Creme fraiche may be substituted.

***Salty aged cow's milk cheese from Mexico with dry, crumbly texture. Available through Cheese Supply, www.cheesesupply.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: Cornmeal Dusted Scallops with Grilled Watermelon and Achiote-Truffle Emulsion (Serves 4)

RICHARD SANDOVAL

Sauvignon Blanc, Seven Brothers

Robledo Family Winery

Lake County, California 2003

directions

For the achiote-truffle emulsion: In saucepan, combine achiote paste and stock. Place over medium heat, stirring to dissolve. Bring to simmer and reduce by half. Stir in remaining ingredients and keep warm.

For the watermelon: Season watermelon with salt and pepper, cover with orange juice and let sit 10 minutes, turning once. Preheat grill or grill pan and grill watermelon about 30 seconds on each side. Set aside and keep warm.

For the scallops: Season scallops with salt and pepper, then toss in masa harina to coat. Brush off excess. Heat oil in saute pan over high heat and sear scallops on both sides until just cooked through.

To serve: Arrange watermelon, guacamole and scallops atop achiote-truffle emulsion, garnish with micro greens and serve.

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ingredients

For the achiote-truffle emulsion:

3 tablespoons achiote paste*
1 cup chicken stock
1 teaspoon honey
1 teaspoon white truffle oil
2 1/2 tablespoons orange juice
Juice of 1 lemon
Kosher salt to taste

For the watermelon:

4 3-inch diameter slices watermelon, 1 inch thick
1/4 cup orange juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

For the scallops:

12 diver scallops, connective muscles removed
4 teaspoons masa harina for tortillas
2 tablespoons canola oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Micro greens

*Paste of ground annatto seeds, spices and tomato. Available through Mexgrocer, [phone] or www.mexgrocer.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: Tortilla Soup with Avocado, Manchego Cheese and Crema Fresca (Serves 4)

RICHARD SANDOVAL

Gewurtztraminer

Navarro Vineyard

Anderson Valley, California 2002

directions

For the corn tortillas: In bowl, combine masa and water. Knead, adding more water as necessary to form soft dough. Divide dough into four balls, cover with paper towels and set aside. Heat cast-iron pan over high heat. Meanwhile, lay sheet of plastic wrap on bottom plate of tortilla press. Place one ball on plastic, cover with another piece of plastic, and press dough into 1/8-inch thick tortilla. Remove top plastic and invert onto one hand. Remove other piece of plastic and transfer tortilla to pan over medium heat. Cook until tortilla releases from pan and bottom is speckled brown, about 30-40 seconds. Turn tortilla over and cook until second side is speckled brown, another 30 seconds. Cover with paper towel. Repeat with remaining dough, stacking under towel.

For the tortilla soup: Heat two tablespoons oil in cast-iron pan over medium-high heat. Cook tortillas one at a time until crisp, turning once, one to two minutes. Drain on paper towels, then break into large pieces. Wipe out pan and heat remaining oil over medium heat. Saute onions and garlic until lightly browned. Add chilis and epazote and continue cooking until chilis are softened. Stir in tomatoes, stock and tortillas. Bring to boil, lower heat and simmer, uncovered, over very low heat for 30 minutes. Transfer soup to food processor fitted with metal blade and puree. Strain through fine-mesh sieve and return soup to low heat. In bowl, combine masa mix with just enough soup to blend. Slowly stir masa mixture into soup and simmer until slightly thickened. Add juice, salt and pepper. Serve immediately, garnished with avocado, cheese, crema fresca and chilis.

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ingredients

For the corn tortillas:

1/2 cup masa harina for tortillas
1/4 cup lukewarm water

For the tortilla soup:

3 tablespoons canola oil
Corn tortillas, from above
1/2 white onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 small dried guajillo chili, stemmed, seeded and crumbled
1 small dried pasilla chili, stemmed, seeded and crumbled
15 epazote leaves, finely chopped*
5 plum tomatoes, coarsely chopped
1 quart chicken stock
1 teaspoon masa harina for tortillas
Juice of 1 lime
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Peeled and coarsely chopped avocado
Diced Manchego cheese
Crema fresca**
Toasted, seeded and thinly sliced guajillo chilis

*Herb common in Mexican cooking. Dried epazote may be substituted. Available through Penzey's Spices, [phone] or www.penzeys.com.

**Creme fraiche may be substituted.