Mari-nation.

because marinades can be made from almost any ingredients found in the pantry, you can effortlessly change their flavor components on a whim, adding and eliminating ingredients as desired. For example, using less oil or more spices in the same basic marinade will dramatically alter the outcome of a dish. An endless variety of marinades are at a chef's fingertips, giving him or her the ability to build multi-levels of flavor. Stemming from the Latin word marinus, or marine, the word refers to the seawater used to preserve food before the advent of refrigeration. Marinating originated from the process of preserving and brining, and Vikings and other sailors who spent long periods at sea used these methods to preserve their food supply and stave off starvation. Unlike today, the prime purpose of brining foods was not to enhance flavor; the salt, used either by itself or within a marinade, inhibited the growth of bacteria that might cause sickness and even death in those who ate spoiled meat.

Four Fathers

we usually think of marinades as herbed oil mixtures in which different protein-based foods and vegetables are placed for varying amounts of time. But marinades can be as diverse as the foods that they are used with. Bearing this in mind, there are four categories of marinades: raw, cooked, instant, and dry. raw marinades (also referred to as wet marinades) are the most popular for meats. Items are often coated with an oil, an acid (such as vinegar), and assorted herbs and spices. Larger cuts of meat may be placed in raw marinades for an extended period of time but are typically left in the marinades for several hours or overnight. Once the meat is removed, the marinade may be discarded but may also be used as a basting liquid during the meat's actual cooking process. Cooked marinades refer to those to which aromatics have been added. They are first cooked and then cooled. The item to be marinated is added to the liquid once the marinade has cooled. Because the aromatics have been cooked, the liquid is more f lavorful, thus enhancing the flavor of the marinated item. These marinades may also be used as the cooking liquid in stews and some sauces. instant marinades are similar to raw marinades. The only difference between the two is that the item being marinated remains in the liquid for a much shorter period of time. This technique lends itself well to ceviches, whose marinade components usually consist of lime juice, cilantro, and chilies, dry marinades, which may be in the form of pastes or rubs, are used when no acidic or tenderizing ingredients are necessary. Dry marinating usually involves the strongest concentration of flavors.

Tender to the Bone

the he main purpose of marinating is to allow food to absorb flavors of the marinade or, as in the case of tough meat, to tenderize it. In fact, marinating has existed as far back as pre-Columbian Mexico, when natives wrapped meat in papaya leaves in order to tenderize tougher cuts. Enzymes in the leaves broke down proteins in the meat, making it more palatable. Ingredients such as pineapple, vinegar, and wine have the same effect today. there is some debate as to whether or not marinades actually tenderize meat. In his book On Food and Cooking, author Harold McGee points out that marinades usually just cover the surface of the item being marinated and do not penetrate the center. Injection marinating may be effective in tenderizing meat but only if its surface has not been docked or scored. Any incision or cut in the meat causes it to lose natural juices as well as the marinade during the cooking process. to avoid a dry, flavorless finished product, adhere to the "tried and true" principles of successful mar inating: use the highest quality cuts of meat, fish, or poultry and marinate for the appropriate amount of time. However, there is great debate over the optimal amount of time to marinate an item. Marinating for excessive periods of time only leads to mushy, gray-colored meat exteriors and acid cooked fish.

If you build it...

marinades can be made from an endless variety of ingredients. Yet the key to a successful and flavorful marinade is not only in the ingredients, but also in the right balance of a marinade's components. Marinade mixtures are typically comprised of three main elements: a base, an acid, and seasonings. Bases are oils (infused and flavored) and serve to evenly coat and spread seasonings over items being marinated. Acids can range from vinegar, wine, and lemon juice to beer, soy sauce, fruit juices, and even coffee. When using a stronger acid, a shorter marinating time is suggested. Seasonings for marinades run the gamut from herbs, spices, garlic, and chilies to fish sauce, salts, olives, and onions.

IaurentGRAS

Fifth Floor

San Francisco, CA

"I had the good fortune to work in the kitchen at Restaurant Guy Savoy and study with Alain Ducasse in Paris early on in my career. I spent five years as Chef de Cuisine at Restaurant Alain Ducasse and Hotel de Paris, where we eventually garnered three Michelin stars. From there, I felt it was time to head out on my own, and in 1997, I went to New York and took the position of Executive Chef at the Waldorf Astoria's Peacock Alley. New York was a great experience. I was fairly used to working in a large city after working for a time in Paris, so there was no real culture shock with that particular move."

In November of 2001, Chef Gras was offered the Executive Chef position in San Francisco's esteemed Fifth Floor, where his food showcases his talent for seeking out the area's quality producers. Immersing himself in the local culture and food of California has had a positive effect on Gras' menu. He likens his current surroundings to those of Nice, France, and also to his native Antibes on France's Cote d'Azur where fresh fish, fruit orchards, and olive groves abound.

Chef Gras has a clear vision of the ins and outs of his profession and the drive needed to stay in the game: "The work itself - - cooking - - it's very interesting. You're not just dealing with the food. You're dealing with purveyors, your staff, the media, and the rest of the industry - - there's a lot to handle on a daily basis. It can create a bit of excitement. But I think the strength for a chef is ultimately his or her food. Staying true to the food is what keeps me passionate about what I do. A chef's biggest competition is with him or herself. It's a challenge to come up with something new everyday and to keep your guests interested at the same time."

Graduating from The Culinary Institute of America in 1986, Rocco DiSpirito moved on to France to work with Dominique Cecillon at the Michelin-starred Jardin de Cygne in Paris. His return to NewYork landed him in restaurants such as Adrienne and Lespinasse. Gaining an arsenal of experience working with top chefs Gray Kunz, David Bouley, and Charles Palmer, Chef DiSpirito soon developed his unique style, which continues to define his cuisine as Executive Chef and partner of the highly successful restaurant, Union Pacific and more recently, as Consulting Chef at Tuscan.

A product of Queens, NewYork, DiSpirito was raised in a family which not only appreciated good food, but respected the cultural and culinary diversity of the neighborhood as well: "I grew up in a highly ethnic community. By the time I was ten, I had tried so many different kinds of food and had met so many different types of people that I think it helped broaden my palate's world view. My parents, who had come from a small town outside of Naples, literally recreated their Italian lifestyle here in America. They made wines, they made breads--my grandmother had chicken coops and grew her own produce. I had a solid appreciation of good wine and good food at home from early on. I realized just how much food and wine contributed to one's life, and it also made me open to many different flavors. As a result, today I combine flavors in interesting and harmonious ways. I look for flavor combinations with ingredients that come from anywhere -- from any cuisine, any geographical location. They all exhibit sour, salty, sweet, and bitter tastes or can be any combination of the four. When you think about food in this way, it almost becomes a literal translation of your final dish. It's about keeping food interesting.

rocco DISPIRITO

"First and foremost, I'm a cook--so coming up with new dishes and combinations of flavors is a deeply satisfying process."

The flavors have to be integrated and balanced. When you do this, it creates a tension or excitement. If you put Pad Thai in your mouth realizing that it has seventeen different ingredients--many of which taste disgusting individually--together, these ingredients create a sort of tension. You bite into it, and initially the flavors are kind of weird but, all of a sudden, there's a crescendo of flavor integration--there's a resolution and it's very dramatic--like a great work of music or art. It's interesting and compelling and has final resolution."

Balance is key in DiSpirito's life, from the many projects he's involved in to running more than one restaurant or simply putting together flavors for a new dish. His days are intense and not without their challenges, but he has learned to keep his focus on the things that will sustain his success: "The way I keep my food quality and vision intact is the same way any CEO of any business successfully produces a product--you hire people that are coachable with good attitudes. You train them and empower them and show them that you are confident in their abilities. When they feel or believe that you have confidence in them to do what's asked of them, they usually exceed your expectations. There are so many people out there that want to be great chefs--I sometimes have to curb their enthusiasm. I look around my kitchen, and I can't believe how many talented people I get to work with--this is the best part of what I do. A lot of my driving force and motivation comes from interacting with these people. I have these magical people in my world, whether they're in the kitchen, in the office, on the floor, or working with me on my book--they're are all amazing human beings."

Ultimately, DiSpirito's philosophy is the source of inspiration that drives him on a daily basis: "What keeps me inspired and moving forward at the same time is the fact that the whole cooking and dining experience is about social interaction--cooking for people facilitates that wonderful interaction. Whatever the reason people are in your restaurant, whether it's for a party, a birthday, or a wedding--it's about celebration, and the joy that comes from these types of occasions is my inspiration. Talking to customers--customers who give me three hours of their lives (which is an enormous opportunity if you think about it) is an incredible responsibility for a chef. This shows that they are putting their faith in me--it's a lovely thing that people do. The fact that I can contribute to their night in a very positive way makes for a remarkable experience.

                        Raw  Cooked  Instant  Dry

Roasts                   *     *
Game

Lean cuts of meat                       *      *
Flank Steak

Tougher Cuts
Cubes                    *     *
Shoulder Cuts

Steaks
T-Bones                  *              *      *
Shell Steaks

Poultry                  *              *      *
Whole or Pieces

Fin Fish                                *      *
Grilled or for Ceviche

Shellfish                *
Octopus

Grilled and Marinated Honshimeji Mushrooms.

(Serves 6)

rocco DiSPIRITO

ingredients


For the marinade:
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1/2 pound beef bones
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 onion, peeled and chopped
1 rib celery, chopped
2/3 cup red wine
2 1/2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
1 quart chicken stock
1/3 cup bonito flakes
1/3 cup Tamari[R] soy sauce
1/4 cup yuzu juice *
6 tablespoons rice vinegar

For the mushrooms:
1/4 cup vegetable oil
3 pounds honshimefi mushrooms,
 trimmed and cut into clusters **

For the garnish:
Garlic chips
Chopped chives

* Yuzu juice is from the Japanese yuzu citrus fruit and is used mostly
for the zest, which has a delicate citrus aroma. Available in most Asian
markets.

** Available through D'Artagnan at [phone].

directions

For the marinade: In a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the beef bones and brown on all sides. Add the carrot, onion, and celery and saute until the vegetables begin to brown. Add the wine and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by half. Add the sherry vinegar and simmer until reduced by half. Add the chicken stock and simmer until reduced by half, skimming the surface as necessary. Strain through a fine mesh sieve into a bowl and add the bonito flakes. Set aside to infuse for 25 minutes. Add the soy sauce, yuzu juice, and rice vinegar and whisk to combine. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside.

For the mushrooms: Prepare a hot grill. In a bowl, combine the vegetable oil with the mushrooms and toss to coat. Grill the mushrooms until they begin to wilt and place in the marinade for 10 minutes. Transfer to a saucepan over medium heat and cook until warmed through. Set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Arrange the mushrooms in a wide soup bowl and pour a serving of marinade over the top. Garnish with the garlic chips and chives.

Cobemet Sauvignan

Bacchus

Livermote Valley, California 2000

Marinated Pekin Duck with Watercress Salad

(Serves 4)

rocco DiSPIRITO

ingredients


For the marinade:
Juice of 2 naval oranges
Juice of 2 blood oranges
1 cup grapeseed oil
2 tablespoons sesame oil
1 tablespoon soy sauce
5 sprigs fresh mint, stemmed and finely chopped
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 shallot, peeled and minced
Salt and pepper to taste

For the duck:
4 Pekin duck breasts, trimmed of excess skin
Reserved marinade
Salt and pepper to taste
For the watercress salad:
1 Pound watercress, stemmed
  and washed
1/2 cup reserved cooked marinade
For the garnish:
Flake sea salt
Reserved cooked marinade
1 naval orange, segmented
1 blood orange, segmented

directions

For the marinade: In a medium bowl, combine the naval and blood orange juices with the grapeseed oil, sesame oil, soy sauce, mint, sugar, and shallot. Season and set aside.

For the duck: In a non-reactive baking dish, combine the duck with the marinade. Place in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Remove the duck from the marinade and set aside. In a small saucepan, add half of the marinade. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer for one minute. Season and set aside to cool. Prepare a hot grill. Place the duck breasts skin-side down on the grill to mark. Turn the duck breasts; brush with the remaining uncooked marinade and grill until desired doneness. Remove from the heat; slice the duck breasts on a bias and set aside, keeping warm.

For the watercress: In a large bowl, combine the watercress with the cooked and cooled marinade and toss to coat.

To serve: Arrange the watercress salad in the middle of a plate. Place a sliced duck breast on top of the salad and sprinkle lightly with the flake sea salt. Spoon the remaining cooked marinade around the plate and garnish with the orange segments.

Chenin Blunc "Les Butisses"

Domaine Deletong

Loire, France 2001

Marinated short ribs of beef with truffled taro root

(Serves 10)

Rocco Dispirito

ingredients

For the marinade:
12 pounds beef short ribs, trimmed to 4-inches, trimmings reserved
2 1/2 cups date paste
1/2 cup brandy
8 shallots, peeled and chopped
2 bunches thyme, stemmed

For the root vegetables:
1/2 pound peeled and diced rutabaga
1/2 pound peeled and diced Vidalia onions
1/2 pound peeled and diced parsnips
1/2 pound peeled and diced carrots
1/2 pound peeled and diced turnips
1/2 pound peeled and diced celeriac
1/2 pound peeled and diced sweet potatoes
1/2 cup canola oil

For the short ribs:
5 prigs thyme
5 sprigs parsley
3 star anise
1/4 cup fennel seeds
3 cinnamon sticks
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon cumin
Reserved marinated short ribs
1/4 cup vegetable oil
3 cups reserved root vegetables
1 3-inch piece gingerroot, peeled and chopped
1 head garlic, halved
2 shallots, peeled and chopped
2 stalks lemongrass, sliced
1/2 pound tomatoes, chopped
1 cup red wine vinegar
6 cups red wine
2 1/2 cups cognac
6 quarts veal stock
Salt and pepper to taste

For the marrow bones:
1 head garlic, cloves separated and peeled
1/4 cup cumin seed
4 sprigs thyme, stemmed
6 tablespoons corn oil
10 beef marrow bones, cut 2-inches in length

For the sauce:
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 1/2 cups reserved diced root vegetables
8 ounces reserved short rib beef trim
1/4 cup date paste
1/2 cup red wine
1/2 cup brandy
4 1/2 cups reserved braising liquid For the truffled led taro root:
4 pounds peeled and diced taro root
6 tablespoons tru ffle butter
3 ounces unsalted butter
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the dish:
1 medium lotus root
Armagnac as needed
20 Medjool dates, soaked, pitted, skinned, and diced
Black truffle slices
Parsley sprigs

directions

For the marinade: Place the short ribs in shallow pan In a food processor fitted with the metal k e attachment, add the date paste, brandy, shallots, and e, and pulse to combine. Spread the mixture eve short ribs and place in the refrigerator for three days.

For the root vegetables: In a large bowl, combine the rutabaga, onions, parsnips, carrots, turnips, celeriac, and sweet potatoes and toss to combine. Remove six cups of the root vegetable mixture and set aside. In a large saucepan, heat the oil. Add the remaining vegetables and cook until golden brown. Remove from the heat and place on a paper towel-lined sheet pan to drain. Set aside, Keeping warm.

For the short ribs: Wrap the thyme, parsley, star anise, fennel seeds, cinnamon sticks, peppercorns, and cumin in cheesecloth and tie the top to create a sachet. Remove the short ribs from the marinade; brush off any excess solids, discarding the marinade, and season with salt and pepper. In a roasting pan over medium-high heat, add the oil. Add the short ribs and brown on all sides. Remove the ribs from the pan and add the reserved root vegetables, ginger, garlic, shallots, and lemongrass. Cook until the vegetables are lightly browned. Add the sachet and tomatoes and cook for two minutes. Add the red wine vinegar, red wine, and the cognac and reduce by half. Place a wire rack on top of the vegetable mixture. Arrange the short ribs on top of the rack and add veal stock to cover. Cover and simmer until the short ribs are very tender, about four hours. Remove the rib meat from the bones and place the rib meat in a hotel pan over ice to cool, discarding the bones. Strain the braising liquid through a fine mesh s ieve and let cool. Pour the cooled braising liquid over the rib meat and refrigerate overnight. Remove the rib meat from the braising liquid; cut into ten equal pieces and set aside. Separate four and one half cups of the braising liquid and set aside for the sauce. In a saucepan, add the five cups of the braising liquid; reserve the remaining liquid for further use and reduce to a glaze consistency. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the marrow bones: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade attachment, add the garlic, cumin, thyme, and corn oil and pulse to combine. Rub the mixture evenly over the marrow bones and refrigerate overnight. Preheat the oven to 200 degrees. Brush the excess marinade from the marrow bones and arrange them on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Place in the oven and cook until heated through. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the sauce: In a large saucepan, heat the oil. Add the reserved root vegetables and beef trim and lightly brown. Add the date paste and mix to combine. Add the red wine and the brandy and reduce by 3/4. Add the reserved braising liquid and reduce until the liquid coats the back of a spoon. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside, keeping warm.

For the truffled taro root: In a large saucepan, add the taro root and cover with water. Bring to a boil and cook until tender, about 25 minutes. Drain and pass through a food mill fitted with a small disc. Add the truffle butter and butter and mix to combine. Season and set aside, keep warm.

For the dish: Peel and thinly slice the lotus root crosswise and place in acidulated water. In a large saucepan filled with boiling water, blanch the lotus root until tender. Drain and place in a bowl. Add enough Armagnac to cover and set aside.

To finish the short ribs: In a large saucepan, combine the short ribs and braising liquid glaze. Place over medium heat and cook until the short ribs are heated through, basting constantly with the glaze. Set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Spoon a portion of truffled taro root in the center of a plate. Place a short rib over the taro root and top with the browned root vegetables. Arrange slices of the lotus root and black truffle over the short rib and spoon a portion of sauce around the plate. Place a marrow bone on the plate and garnish with parsley sprigs.

Cinsault

Frick

Sonoma, California, 1999

Ceviche of Wild Striped Bass

(Serves 4)

rocco DiSPIRITO

ingredients


For the marinade:
1 1/2 sweet onions, peeled and thinly sliced
1/2 Thai chili pepper, seeded and diced
Juice of 4 limes
1/4 teaspoon Asian fish sauce

For the cilantro puree:
2 cups kosher salt
4 bunches cilantro, stemmed
1/2 cup simple syrup
Salt and pepper to taste

For the fish:
12 ounces wild striped bass filet, thinly sliced
Extra virgin olive oil, as needed
Reserved marinade
Cilantro sprouts
1/2 lime, peeled and diced
Salt and white pepper to taste

directions

For the marinade: In a small non-reactive bowl, combine the onions, chili pepper, lime juice, and fish sauce. Place in the refrigerator overnight.

For the cilantro puree: Bring a saucepan of water with half of the kosher salt to a boil. Add the cilantro and cook for one minute. Prepare an ice bath and add the remaining kosher salt to the ice bath. Drain and shock the cilantro in the ice bath for two minutes. Squeeze the excess water from the cilantro and transfer to a blender. With the motor running, add the simple syrup and puree until smooth. Season to taste and set aside.

To serve: Season the fish and arrange on a round plate in a circular pattern. Drizzle with olive oil and spoon the marinade over the top. Spoon the cilantor puree around the fish. Garnish with the cilantro sprouts and diced lime.

Chenin Blanc

Hogue Cellars

Columbia Valley, Washington 2001

Miso Grilled Salmon in Sake Broth

(Serves 4)

roccoDiSPIRITO

Ingredients


For the ske broth:
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
4 shallots, peeled and chopped
2 cups water
1 1/2 cups sake
2 teaspoons salt
16 Manila clams
16 cockles

For the salmon:
4 6-ounce salmon filets
1 1/2 ounces miso paste
1 tablespoon yuzu kosho
4 tablespoons onion puree
1 tablespoon honey

For the dish:
Reserved sake broth
2 clusters honshimeji
  mushrooms, caps only **
2 ounces rinsed wakame, chooped
1 ounce rinsed red tosaka, chopped ***
Reserved clam and cockle meat
1 teaspoon grated yuzu skin ****
4 scallions, white parts only,
  halved and blanched

For the garnish:
4 pieces salmon skin, fried
4 quail eggs, poached
Toasted seame seeds

* Yuzu kosho is Japanese red pepper paste flavored with yuzu. Available
inmost Asian markets.

** Available through D'Artagnan at [phone].

*** Red tosaka is also referred to as red nori. Available in most Asian
markets.

**** Yuzu is a Japanese citrus fruit and is used mostly for the zest,
which has a delicate citrus aroma. Available in most Asian markets.

directions

For the sake broth: In a large saucepan, heat the vegetable oil. Add the shallots and saute until translucent. Add the water, sake, and salt and bring to a boil. Add the clams and cockles; cover and simmer until all of the shells are open. Remove the clams and cockles from the broth; remove the clam and cockle meat from the shells and discard the shells. Set aside, keeping warm. Strain the broth through a fine mesh sieve and set aside, keeping warm.

For the salmon: Prepare a hot grill and broiler. Place the salmon filets on the grill and cook until desired doneness. In a bowl, combine the miso paste, yusu kosho, onion puree, and honey. Spread the mixture over the salmon filets; arrange on a sheet pan and place under the broiler until the top is lightly charred, about one minute. Remove from the heat and set aside, keeping warm.

To finish the sake broth: Bring the sake broth to a boil; reduce the heat and maintain at a simmer. Add the mushrooms and cook for one minute. Add the wakame, red tosaka, clam and cockle meat, yuzu skin, and scallions and warm through. Remove from the heat and set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Place a salmon met in a large soup bowl. Garnish the salmon with a piece of the fried salmon skin. Pour a portion of the broth around the filet. Garnish with a quail egg and sprinkle lightly with toasted sesame seeds.

Gruner Veltliner

Sommer, Austria 2001

Mango-Celery Marmalade with Almond Tofu

(Serves 4)

roccoDISPIRITO

Ingredients

For the marinated mango:
1 mango, peeled and thinly sliced on a mandoline
1/2 cup turbinado sugar
1/2 cup water
1 Thai chili pepper, seeded and diced
1 teaspoon ground allspice
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
10 cilantro sprigs
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground Thai long red pepper *

For the celery sorbet:
3/4 bunch celeryribs, leaves reserved
6 tablespoons simple syrup
2 1/2 tablespoons lime juice
3/4 teaspoon salt

For the celerymarmalade:
1/4 cup light brown sugar
1 teaspoon salt
4 ribs celery, peeled and diced small

Lemon juice to taste

For the almond tofu:
2 cups skim milk
1/4 cup granulated sugar
3/4 teaspoon salt
2 cups crushed blanched almonds
2 sheets gelatin, softened in cold water

For the garnish:
Crushed honey-roasted peanuts
Lovage oil
Sugared celery leaves

* Ground Thai long red pepper is available in Asian markets.

directions

For the marinated mango: Place the mango in a shallow dish. In a saucepan, combine the sugar, water, Thai chili, allspice, coriander seeds, cilantro, salt, and Thai long red pepper. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer for one minute. Pour the sugar mixture over the mango; cover and place in the refrigerator for 24 hours.

For the celery sorbet: In a juicer, add the celery and extract the juice. In a bowl, combine the celery juice, simple syrup, lime juice, and salt. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.

For the celery marmalade: In a small saucepan, heat the brown sugar and salt until dissolved. Add the celery and cook until tender. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Add the lemon juice to taste and set aside.

For the almond tofu: In a small saucepan, heat the milk. Add the sugar, salt, and almonds and stir to combine. Remove from the heat and let infuse for one hour. Transfer to a blender and puree until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve into a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the gelatin and whisk until it has thoroughly melted. Transfer to a small hotel pan and place in the refrigerator until set, about two hours.

To finish the dish: Lightly rinse the mango's slices and lay them on a flat work surface Square off the edges; spread each with celery marmalade and roll to create packages. Cut the almond tofu into small cubes.

To serve: Place three mango packages along with two quenelles of celery sorbet on a large oval plate. Garnish the plate with the almond tofu and crushed honey roasted peanuts. Drizzle the mango packages with lovage oil and garnish with the sugared celery leaves.

Soy Marinated Skate Wing with Wine Sauce

(Serves 6)

laurent GRAS

ingredients


For the wine sauce:
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
3 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
1 shallot, peeled and minced
1 -inch piece fennel stalk, diced
1 small tomato, diced
1 serrano chili, seeded and minced
1 teaspoon white peppercorns
1 pound beef oxtail, roasted
1 cup white wine
1 ounce rice wine vinegar
1 cup demi-glace
4 sprigs lemon thyme
Soy sauce, salt, and pepper to taste

For tbe potatoes:
5 ounces yellow Finn potatoes, boiled
  in salted water until tender,
  peeled and diced
1 ounce chicken stock, hot
3 ounces unsalted butter
Fleur de sel and pepper to taste

For the artichoke puree:
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 ounces trimmed and diced
  artichoke bottoms
1/2 cup white wine
6 ounces chicken stock
2 ounces unsalted butter
Lemon juice to taste
Reserved mashed potatoes
Fleur de sel and pepper to taste

For the skate wings:
1 cup soy sauce
6 4-ounce skate wings,
  skinned and boned
3 ounces duck fat
Reserved white wine sauce
Fleur de sel ahd pepper to taste

For the wine sauce: In a saucepan, heat the oil.

Condrieu Philippe Faury Rhone, France 1999

Add the garlic, shallot, and fennel and saute until translucent. Add the tomato and saute for three minutes. Add the chili pepper, peppercorns, oxtail, wine, and vinegar. Simmer until reduced by half. Reduce the heat; add the demi-glace and simmer until reduced by half. Remove from the heat; add the lemon thyme and set aside for 10 minutes. Strain through a cheesecloth-lined fine mesh sieve. Season with soy sauce, salt, and pepper and set aside, keeping warm.

For the potatoes: In a saucepan, add the potatoes, chicken stock, and the butter. Place over medium heat and mix to combine; season and set aside, keeping warm.

For the artichoke puree: In a saute pan, heat the oil. Add the artichokes and white wine and simmer until reduced by half. Add the chicken stock and butter. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer until the artichokes are tender. Transfer the artichokes and potatoes to a blender and puree until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve; add the lemon juice and season. Add the reserved mashed potatoes and stir to combine. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the skate wing: In a large bowl, add the soy sauce. Place the skate wings in the bowl; coat with the soy sauce and set aside for 10 minutes. In a saute pan, heat the duck fat. Place the skate wings in the pan and cook until golden brown on one side. Turn the skate wings over; brush with the wine sauce and season. Remove from the heat and set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Spoon a portion of artichoke puree in the center of a plate. Place a skate wing on top of the puree and spoon a small portion of sauce over it.

Condrieu

Philippe Faury

Rhone, France 1999

Marinated Fluke in Fresh Seaweek with Lemon Konbu Gelee

(Serves 6)

laurentGRAS

ingredients


For the lemon konbu gelee:
1/2 lemon, peeled and thinly sliced
1/2 Meyer lemon, peeled and thinly sliced
1 stalk lemon grass, sliced
3 kaffir lime leaves
1 3/4 cups chicken stock
1/2 once konbu, softened in cold water
2 sheets gelatin, softened in cold water

For the marinated fluke:
3/4 pound fresh wakame, rinsed
4 teaspoons fleur de sel
6 4-ounce fluke filets

For the garnish:
Fresh wakame
Osetra caviar
Lemon olive oil

directions

Minowamon Sake

Fukushima Prefecture, Japan

For the lemon konbu gelee: In a bowl, combine the lemon slices, lemon grass, kaffir lime leaves, chicken stock, and konbu. Set aside for one hour. Transfer to a saucepan and place over low heat. Bring to a simmer; remove from the heat and strain through a coffee filter-lined fine mesh sieve. Add the gelatin; whisk to combine and pour into a large non-reactive dish. Place in the refrigerator overnight until set.

For the marinated fluke: Place a layer of the wakame in a deep roasting pan; sprinkle with the fleur de sel and place the fluke filets on top. Cover with the remaining wakame and place in the refrigerator for four hours. Unwrap and brush off any excess salt from the fluke filets; set aside.

To serve: Place a piece of wakame on a plate. Place a fluke filet over the wakame and garnish with caviar. Fill a small dipping sauce bowl with the lemon konbu gelee and place next to the fluke. Garnish with additional wakame and drizzle lightly with the olive oil.

Minowamon Sake

Fukushima Prefecture, Japan

Sea Bass Ceviche with Lime and Truffles

(Services 2)

Iaurent Gras

Ingredients


For the scallops:
3 tablespoons clarified butter
2 Diver scallops
2 truffle slices
Fleur de sel and pepper to taste

For the sea bass
6 ounces sea bass filet, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon lime juice
1 tablespoon clam juice
1 tablespoon truffle juice
1 tablespoon chopped black truffles
Salt to taste

For the dish:
4 littleneck clams, shucked
2 1-ounce slices geoduck clams, blanched and peeled
2 lobster claws, roasted and shelled
2 Kumamoto oysters, shucked

For the garnish:
Key lime slices
Lime olive oil
Geoduck clams are available through
True World Foods at [phone]

directions

For the scallops: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a saute pan, heat two tablespoons of the butter. Add the scallops and saute for two minutes. Remove from the heat and place in the oven until desired doneness. Remove from the heat; reason and set aside, keeping warm. Heat the remaining clarified butter over medium heat. Add the truffles and saute for two minutes. Remove from the heat; season and set aside, keeping warm.

For the sea bass: Arrange the sea bass slices on two plates in a circular pattern. Drizzle with the lime juice, clam juice, and truffle juice and sprinkle with the chopped truffles. Season with the lime juice, clam juice, and truffle juice and sprinkle with the chopped truffles. Season with salt and set aside.

To serve: In a bowl, combine the scallops, truffle slices, clams, lobster claw meat, and oysters. Arrange the seafood in a decorative pattern in the center of the ceviche. Garnish with a key lime slice and drizzle the top with the olive oil.

Blanc de Blances

Schramsberg

Sonoma, California 1997

Marinated Foie Gras with Roasted Pineapple

(Serves 6)

Iaurent GRAS

ingredients


For the marinated foie gras:
6 3-ounce pieces foie gras,
 shaped into rectangles
3 cups rice wine vinegar
1-inch piece gingerroot, peeled
 and minced
Fleur de sel and pepper to taste
For the sauteed pineapple:
1 pineapple, peeled and sliced
 1/2-inch thick
1/4 cup brown sugar
2 tablespoons clarified butter

For the duck sauce:
Duck fat, as needed
1 pound duck bones and necks, chopped
1 shallot, peeled and sliced
1 clove garlic, peeled and chopped
2 cups chicken stock
1 cup demi-glace
Salt and pepper to taste

For the pineapple sauce:
1 tablespoon clarified butter
1 serrano chili pepper, stemmed,
 seeded, and diced
3/4 cup diced pineapple
Pinch brown sugar
1/2-inch piece gingerroot,
 peeled and diced
1 small vanilla bean, split and scraped
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
2 tablespoons white rum
Reserved duck sauce
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the pineapple squares:
3 ounces water
5 ounces granulated sugar
1/2-inch piece gingerroot, peeled
 and minced
1 serrano chili pepper, peeled,
 seeded, and minced
2 vanilla beans, split
1/2 pineapple, peeled, thinly
 sliced, ends squared off

directions

For the marinated foie gras: In a bowl, combine the foie gras and rice vinegar. Place in the refrigerator for one hour. Remove the foie gras; discard the vinegar and set aside.

For the sauteed pineapple: In a bowl, combine the pineapple and brown sugar and set aside for one hour. In a saute pan, heat the clarified butter. Add the pineapple and saute until golden brown. Remove from the heat and set aside, keeping warm.

For the duck sauce: In a saucepan, heat the duck fat. Add the duck bones and necks and brown on all sides. Pour off the excess fat; add the shallot and garlic and saute until caramelized. Add half of the chicken stock; bring to a simmer, and reduce until almost dry. Add the remaining chicken stock and demi-glace. Bring to a simmer and reduce until the sauce coats the back of a spoon. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Season and set aside, keeping warm.

For the pineapple sauce: In a saute pan, heat the butter. Add the chili pepper and saute for two minutes. Add the pineapple, brown sugar, ginger, and vanilla bean and saute until the pineapple is lightly browned. Add the rice wine vinegar and rum. Bring to a simmer and reduce by half. Add the duck sauce and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by half. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve; season and set aside, keeping warm.

For the pineapple squares: In a saucepan, combine the water, sugar, ginger, chili pepper, and vanilla beans. Bring to a boil; remove from the heat and set aside to cool at room temperature. On a parchment-lined sheet pan, carefully layer the pineapple slices, slightly overlapping, to form six equal size squares. Brush the squares with the sugar mixture and set aside.

To finish the marinated foie gras: Place a saute pan over medium heat. Add the foie gras and saute until browned on all sides. Remove from the heat; sprinkle with ginger, salt, and pepper and set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Place two pieces of sauteed pineapple in the center of a plate and top with a slice of foie gras. Carefully place a pineapple square over the foie gras and spoon a portion of pineapple sauce around the plate.

Amarone della Valpolicella

Brigaldara

Veneto, Italy 1996

Marinated Venison Loin with Fresh Coconut and Lime

(Serves 6)

Laurent GRAS

ingredients

For the venison:
1 small quince, peeled and diced
1 1/4 cups coconut milk
2 1/2 pounds venison loin
2 tablespoons duck fat
Salt and pepper to taste

For the venison jus:
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 1/2 pounds venison bones and trimmings, chopped
3 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced
3 small shallots, peeled and minced
4 1/2 cups chicken stock
1 1/4 cups demi-glace
1 sprig thyme
1 bay leaf

For the coconut jus:
1 coconut, halved and grated
1 cup water

For the lime venison sauce:
1 1/2 cups reserved venison jus
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 teaspoon cornstarch slurry
Lime juice to taste
Salt and pepper to taste

For the braised hearts of plam:
1 1/4 cups chicken stock
6 fresh hearts of palm
2 teaspoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon coconut milk
1 tablespoon clarified butter
1 ounce chicken stock
1 teaspoon cornstarch slurry
Sea salt to taste

For the garnish:
Sliced fresh hearts of palm, warmed
Grated coconut
Diced jalapeno chilis

directions

For the venison: In a saucepan over medium heat, combine the quince and coconut milk. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer until the quince is tender. Transfer to a blender and puree until smooth. In a large saucepan, combine the venison and coconut milk mixture and place in the refrigerator to marinate for two hours. Remove the venison from the coconut milk and set aside, discarding the coconut milk.

For the venison jus: In a roasting pan, heat the oil. Add the venison bones and trimmings and saute until caramelized. Drain off excess fat and add the garlic and shallots. Saute until translucent. Add half of the chicken stock and simmer until reduced by half. Add the remaining chicken stock and demi-glace and simmer for two hours, skimming occasionally. Add the thyme and bay leaf and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve into a saucepan. Place over medium heat and simmer until the sauce coats the back of a spoon. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the coconut jus: In a bowl, add the coconut and water. Set aside for two hours. Strain the coconut, discarding the water, and wrap in cheesecloth. Squeeze the liquid into a bowl and set aside, discarding the pulp.

For the lime venison sauce: In a saucepan, bring the venison jus to a boil. Reduce the heat; whisk in the butter and simmer until reduced by half. Add the cornstarch and lime juice, whisking constantly. Season and set aside, keeping warm.

For the braised hearts of palm: In a saucepan, bring the chicken stock to a simmer. Add the hearts of palm and simmer until tender. Remove from the heat and cover with a damp towel until cooled. Remove the hearts of palm from the chicken stock and cut into one and one half-inch lengths. In a bowl, add the butter and coconut milk mixture and combine. In a saucepan, heat the clarified butter. Add the hearts of palm and saute on all sides. Drain off excess butter and add the chicken stock and coconut butter. Add the cornstarch slurry, whisking constantly. Season with salt to taste. Remove from the heat and set aside, keeping warm.

To finish the venison: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. In a saute pan, heat the duck fat. Add the venison and brown on all sides. Place in the oven and roast until desired doneness, basting with the remaining venison jus. Remove from the heat; season and set aside to rest for 10 minutes.

To serve: Arrange a portion of sliced hearts of palm in a circular pattern on a plate. Place a braised heart of palm in the center and spoon a portion of coconut milk over it. Slice the venison and arrange six slices around the braised heart of palm; spoon a portion of lime venison jus over the venison slices and heart of palm and garnish each with grated coconut. Sprinkle the plate with the diced jalapenos.

Gewurtitraminer, Hengst

Domaine Zind-Humbrecht

Alsace, France 1999

Blood Orange Gratin with Black Pepper Meringue

(Serves 6)

laurentGRAS

Ingredients


For the vanilla ice cream:
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1/2 cup skim milk
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 vanilla beans, split and scraped
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/8 teaspoon sea salt
5 egg yolks

For the black pepper meringue:
4 ounces egg whites
10 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/4 cup confectioners' sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
Zest of 1 blood orange

For the blood orange marmalade:
4 blood oranges, peeled, and segmented
2 cups water
2 cups granulated sugar
1 vanilla bean, split
For the vanilla essence:
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

For the blood orange jus:
2 teaspoons apple pectin
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 cups blood orange juice
1/4 teaspoon salt

For the citrus sabayon:
3 egg yolks
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
Peel of 1/2 orange, finely minced
2 ounces Champagne
1/2 teaspoon lemon juice
2 tablespoons heavy
 cream, whipped

For the dish:
6 blood oranges, peeled
 and segmented
Zest of 2 blood oranges

directions

For the vanilla ice cream: In a saucepan, bring the heavy cream, milk, sugar, vanilla beans, vanilla extract, and sea salt to a boil. Reduce the heat and maintain at a simmer. Place the egg yolks in a bowl and whisk until smooth. Temper the egg yolks, adding one-third of the hot cream mixture while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered egg yolks into the hot cream mixture and place over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. When the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon, remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Set over an ice bath until chilled and freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions. Transfer the ice cream to a small parchment-lined hotel pan and place in the freezer until hard. Using a two-inch round cutter, cut out six circles and place in the freezer.

For the black pepper meringue: Preheat the oven to 225 degrees; spray the inside of six 3-inch ring molds with nonstick spray and place on a parchment-lined sheet pan. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, combine the egg whites, one tablespoon of the sugar, and cream of tartar. Whip to stiff peaks. Add two tablespoons of the sugar and whip to combine. Repeat with four more tablespoons of sugar. In a bowl, combine the remaining sugar, confectioners' sugar, salt, black pepper, and blood orange zest and mix to combine. Fold the black pepper mixture into the whipped egg whites until combined. Transfer the mixture to a pastry bag fitted with a medium round tip. Pipe the meringue into the prepared molds. Remove the molds and place in the oven until dry, about two hours. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Using a two-inch round cutter, cut out the center of each meringue and set aside.

For the blood orange marmalade: In a saucepan, combine the blood oranges and water over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Add the sugar and vanilla bean and simmer until the mixture thickens, about one hour. Remove from the heat; remove the vanilla bean and set aside, keeping warm.

For the vanilla essence: In a saucepan, combine the water, sugar, and vanilla bean. Bring to a boil; remove from the heat and set aside for one hour. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set over an ice bath until cooled.

For the blood orange jus: In a saucepan, combine the pectin and sugar and the blood orange juice. Place over low heat and reduce by one-quarter. Add the salt; whisk to combine and remove from the heat. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set over an ice bath until cooled.

For the citrus sabayon: In a bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, orange peel, Champagne, and lemon juice. Cook the mixture over a double boiler, whisking constantly, until the mixture becomes light and foamy. Remove from the heat and set over an ice bath, whisking constantly until cooled. Fold in the whipped cream and set aside.

To serve: Place a vanilla ice cream circle in the middle of a black pepper meringue and place in the center of a bowl. In a separate bowl, combine the blood orange marmalade, blood orange segments, and blood orange zest and toss to coat. Arrange the blood orange segments over the top of the meringue in a decorative pattern. Spoon some of the citrus sabayon over the orange segments and a portion of blood orange jus and vanilla essence around the bowl.

Dashi

(Serves 5, 4-ounce portions)

For the dashi:


2 1/2 cups water
1 x 1-inch square konbu
1 teaspoon bonito flakes

For the dashi: In a medium saucepan, combine the water and konbu and bring to a boil. Remove the konbu, add the bonito flakes, and simmer for ten minutes. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve.

Sauternes

Cru Barrejats

Bardeaux, France 1995