MR. WASABI IS ON A ROLL IN STUDIO CITY.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic THE CARTOONISH CHARACTER depicting the restaurant's name is a green-faced sushi chef with a big smile, shaved or bald head, a few unruly chin hairs and a white kerchief wrapped around his forehead and sporting a big bow in front. Meet Mr. Wasabi, a new little Japanese cafe that replaced a once-thriving yogurt shop in Studio City. And plaudits to whoever designed Mr. Wasabi's six-page fold-out brochure menu that dramatizes almost every roll, appetizer and main-course dish available in splendid, full-color detail. But the fellow crafting our sushi requests at the small bar doesn't look anything like the cartoon version of Mr. Wasabi, though he has the big smile and nods affirmatively when asked if he, indeed, is the real Mr. Wasabi. His efforts at everyday sushi like maguro (tuna, $3.50) and yellowtail (hamachi This article is about the computer networking software. For the Japanese fish and sushi ingredient, see Japanese amberjack. Hamachi is a centrally-managed zero-configuration virtual private network (VPN) freeware application capable of establishing direct , $4.25) are respectable, to say the least. But he appears to excel at the new-wave designer rolls fashioned with variations of crispy shrimp or vegetable tempura Tempura - Language based on temporal logic. "Executing Temporal Logic Programs", B. Moszkowski, Camb U Press 1986. , avocado, spicy tuna, regular tuna, yellowtail, salmon, cream cheese, surimi su·ri·mi n. Minced, processed fish used in the preparation of imitation seafood, especially imitation shellfish. [Japanese : suru, to process, mash + mi, meat.] , albacore albacore: see tuna. albacore Large oceanic tuna (Thunnus alalunga) that is noted for its fine flesh. The streamlined bodies of these voracious predators are adapted to fast and continuous swimming. , scallops, freshwater or sea eel, gobo root, squid, smelt eggs and who knows what else. I've particularly enjoyed his ``yummy crunch'' creation ($6.50) of cut- up tuna, tomato, scallions and smelt eggs mixed with a ginger sauce and placed atop a trio of three crisp wonton squares to form a sort of Japanese version of bruschetta bruschetta Noun an Italian open sandwich of toasted bread topped with olive oil and tomatoes, olives, etc [Italian] . And if you have a predilection toward cold pasta salads, you'll certainly like his sashimi soba ($7.25) offering of three heaping swirls of buckwheat buckwheat, common name for certain members of the Polygonaceae, a family of herbs and shrubs found chiefly in north temperate areas and having a characteristic pungent juice containing oxalic acid. Species native to the United States are most common in the West. noodles topped with scallions and arranged with scatterings of diced, raw tuna, halibut and either crunchy octopus or giant clam and a cup of ponzu-style, vinegary soy dipping sauce. If you like green salad mixtures, try Mr. Wasabi's albacore salad ($8.95), a refreshing melange mé·lange also me·lange n. A mixture: "[a] building crowned with a mélange of antennae and satellite dishes" Howard Kaplan. of greens, cucumber and tomato topped with seared albacore sashimi slices and a reddish sweet-and-sour dressing. In the heated meaty segment, there are good renditions of chicken katsu ($8.95), here paired in a bento-type dinner combo special with fluffy shrimp and vegetable tempura pieces and popular California roll as the main ingredients plus steamed rice, an iceberg salad and small cup of miso soup. Similar options of teriyaki ter·i·ya·ki n. A Japanese dish of grilled or broiled slices of marinated meat or shellfish. [Japanese : teri, glaze + yaki, to broil.] Noun 1. chicken or beef ($6.75) or salmon ($7.95) arrive daubed daub v. daubed, daub·ing, daubs v.tr. 1. To cover or smear with a soft adhesive substance such as plaster, grease, or mud. 2. To apply paint to (a surface) with hasty or crude strokes. with the familiar sweet ``barbecue'' soy-base flavoring. I prefer the house rendition of spicy pork ($6.95) here, which provides elements of tender meatiness, flavor sweetness and spiciness all at the same time. What can disappoint, though, is a hand roll sushi request with soybean paper of spicy scallops or spicy tuna that loses the distinctive texture and individual flavor of the sweet mollusk mollusk: see Mollusca. mollusk or mollusc Any of some 75,000 species of soft-bodied invertebrate animals (phylum Mollusca), many of which are wholly or partly enclosed in a calcium carbonate shell secreted by the mantle, a soft or delicate raw fish in too much rice and in mayonnaise or other saucing. Also, the occasional hard-to-chew quality of good nori no·ri n. pl. no·ris An edible, dried preparation of red algae of the genus Porphyra. [Japanese.] (seaweed paper) in some rolls. And sometimes the pictured item will vary greatly from what is produced, which, though it is dutifully noted in fine print on the menu that such occurrences could happen, still doesn't alleviate the basic disappointment. But generally, Mr. Wasabi comes through with flying colors - both on its fancy menu, and in reality. MR. WASABI Food: Three stars. Service: Three stars Where: 11388 Ventura Blvd., Studio City. Hours: Open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. daily except Sunday, for dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. nightly except Sunday. Recommended items: Regular (nigiri) sushi, specialty rolls (Hawaiian, lobster et al.), yummy crunch, spicy pork, teriyaki and chicken katsu combos, sashimi soba, spicy pork. How much: Sushi, sashimi and rolls from $1 to $12, salads from $5 to $9, appetizers from $3 to $9, plates from $6 to $11, dessert $2 and $3. AE, MC, V. Wine list: No alcohol license. Reservations: Tables only. First come, first served at sushi bar. Delivery and takeout. Call (818) 769-8748. CAPTION(S): photo Photo: Co-owners Paul Chen, left, and Sonae Chen are joined by sushi chef Joonho Moon in presenting customer favorites at Mr. Wasabi. Tina Burch/Staff Photographer |
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