MORE MUSTARD, PLEASE SAVOR VARIETIES FROM SWEET TO SIZZLING.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

There's more to mustard than the bright yellow stuff you smear on hot dogs and hamburgers. These days, gourmet mustards come in all shades and flavors from all over the world.

You'll find designer mustards fashioned with lime, tequila, raspberry honey, merlot and chocolate, chocolate fudge, vodka and tomato, habanero, beer, chipotle jalapeno, tarragon, herbs de provence, watercress and much more.

Mustard has grown from a $203 million industry a decade ago to a $300 million retail and supermarket category in the U.S. today, says Stacey Bender, spokeswoman for New Jersey-based French's Mustard. ``Sales have grown at an annual rate of 1 percent to 2 percent in the last five years,'' she says, noting that per capita mustard consumption is approximately 12 ounces per year.

With interest in more adventuresome eating, it's the specialty mustard category, even though small, that's currently the largest growing segment of the market, notes Barry Levenson, founder and curator of the Mount Horeb Mustard Museum.

``More than 200 million bottles of mustard (all kinds and varieties) are sold annually,'' adds Bender. And today more than 200 companies in the U.S. are producing mustards of all kinds, notes Levenson.

French's, the largest mustard manufacturer producing the best-selling mustard (yellow) in this country (introduced at the 1904 World's Fair in St. Louis along with the hot dog) has a 31 percent share of the total mustard category, notes Bender, with sales of yellow mustard making up 72 percent of that total followed by honey mustard at 11 percent, deli brown (Bold 'n' Spicy) at 9 percent and Napa Valley Style Dijon and Sweet 'n' Zesty at 4 percent each.

According to Silvia Robles, brand manager for Grey Poupon Mustard (made in this country since 1946), mustard is found in 70 percent of all U.S. households. Little wonder, then, that the interest in mustards has not only spawned a museum dedicated solely to the condiment - the Mount Horeb museum in Wisconsin - but a large festival, the Napa Valley Mustard Festival, now going into its 11th year.

``The Dijon category accounts for 20 percent of the total mustard market in the United States, and we have about 10 percent of the Dijon category or 2 percent of the entire mustard category,'' says Eric Barthome, North American sales and marketing manager for Maille Inc., a Dijon, France-based company. Maille Dijon mustard, made in France according to a recipe created in 1747 by Antoine Maille, has been imported and available in this country only since 1991. Unlike Grey Poupon, which is reported to have a 60 percent share of the Dijon category, Maille contains no white wine or spices - just brown mustard seeds, water, vinegar and salt - and thus, is not as sweet.

Health, convenience and interest in bold flavors are all factors impacting mustard consumption, points out Bender. ``Mustard flavors food for free,'' says the Mount Horeb museum's Levenson. Unless it contains wine, flour, sugar, eggs and some other ingredients, mustard is usually fat-, cholesterol- and calorie-free as well as low in sodium (read the label). A tablespoon of mayonnaise, on the other hand, has a hefty 11 grams fat, 100 calories and 5 milligrams cholesterol.

A versatile condiment, ready to use on a moment's notice in cooking, mustard (different ones can be used interchangeably in recipes) can add pizazz to omelets, sauces, salads, entrees, vinaigrette dressings, dips, chicken, vegetables - even cakes, cookies and ice cream.

Although squeeze plastic mustard bottles were introduced in the '70s - and improvements have been made in the shape and caps in the years since - some experts still prefer glass containers because of better keeping and longer shelf-life qualities.

Most people don't realize mustard (dry) is a spice, and it becomes a condiment when you mix the powder (ground seeds) with other ingredients, including a liquid, says Helene Sawyer, co-author with Cheryl Long of ``Gourmet Mustards: The How-Tos of Making & Cooking With Mustards.''

If you want to try your hand at making your own gourmet mustards, either use whole mustard seeds, grinding them to a powder in a small food processor or an electric spice grinder, or purchase dry powdered mustard, advises Sawyer. Most of the mustards eaten as condiments are made from pungent brown mustard seeds. Yellow (white) mustard seeds, which are sweeter, are used in making pickles and relishes. Once prepared, allow homemade mustard to age unrefrigerated in a cool, dark place until it reaches the level of heat desired; then refrigerate to retard a decrease in pungency.

Once opened, refrigerate store-bought mustards to preserve quality, retain flavor and retard oxidation, which turns a yellow/gold mustard into a dark brown, unappealing condiment - and use within a year or two, or by the date found on some jars.

LEMON MUSTARD ROASTED CHICKEN

1/4 cup Dijon mustard, any style

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 tablespoon olive oil 

1 (2 1/2 to 3-pound) roasting chicken, whole or cut into parts (OR use 1 1/2 pounds skinless, boneless chicken breast halves)

Salt and pepper 

Blend mustard, lemon juice and olive oil in a small bowl. Place chicken on a rack in a baking pan; brush with mustard mixture. Season with salt and pepper. Bake in preheated 425-degree oven 40 minutes or until cooked through. (If using chicken breasts bake 20 to 25 minutes.) Makes 4 servings.

CAJUN CHICKEN NUGGETS AND GRILLED FRUIT

1/2 cup beer OR nonalcoholic malt beverage 

1/4 cup spicy brown deli mustard

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 pound boneless skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces

3/4 cup plain dry bread crumbs

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon prepared Cajun seasoning blend

1 fresh pineapple, peeled, cored and cut into 1/2-inch thick rings

2 peaches, cut into 1-inch thick wedges

Peachy Mustard Glaze

Combine beer, mustard and oil in a large bowl. Add chicken pieces; toss to coat evenly. Cover and marinate in refrigerator 20 minutes. Combine bread crumbs and Cajun seasoning in a pie plate. Remove chicken from marinade; roll in bread crumb mixture to coat. Discard any remaining marinade. Place chicken pieces on a baking sheet coated with nonstick cooking spray. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 20 minutes or until chicken is slightly golden brown and no longer pink in center, turning once. Remove to a serving plate.

Coat fruit with nonstick cooking spray. Place fruit on an oiled grid. Grill 5 to 8 minutes over medium heat until just tender. (Fruit can also be broiled). Serve with chicken nuggets and Peachy Mustard Glaze. Makes 4 servings.

PEACHY MUSTARD GLAZE: Microwave 3/4 cup peach preserves in a small microwavable bowl on high power 1 1/2 to 2 minutes or until melted, stirring once. Stir in 1/4 cup yellow mustard and 2 tablespoons orange juice. Makes 1 cup.

LUAU SPARERIBS 

1 (8-ounce) can crushed pineapple packed in juice, undrained

1/3 cup apricot jam OR orange marmalade

3 tablespoons yellow mustard

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

2 teaspoons grated ginger root

1 teaspoon minced garlic

3 to 4 pounds pork baby back ribs

Combine all ingredients except ribs in a blender or food processor; process until well-blended. Place ribs on a greased rack. Grill ribs over medium heat 40 minutes or until barely pink near bone. Baste ribs with some pineapple mixture during last 10 minutes of cooking. Cut into individual ribs to serve. Serve remaining sauce, heated, for dipping. Makes 4 servings.

SPINACH AND GRAPEFRUIT SALAD

1 (10-ounce) bag fresh baby spinach leaves, rinsed

2 cups sliced fresh mushrooms

1/2 cup thinly sliced red onion

1/2 cup cooked, crumbled bacon

2 cups sectioned pink grapefruit

Dijon Vinaigrette

Place spinach, mushrooms, onion, bacon and grapefruit in a large bowl; toss. Add Dijon Vinaigrette and toss with salad or drizzle dressing over top of salad. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

DIJON VINAIGRETTE: In a blender container, combine 1/4 cup red wine vinegar, 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard and 1 tablespoon honey. Gradually add 2/3 cup olive oil, blending until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Makes 1 cup.

MUSTARD BRIE AMANDINE 

2 tablespoons honey Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon orange marmalade

1 (8-ounce) Brie cheese wheel OR round

2 tablespoons sliced almonds, toasted

Blend mustard and marmalade. Place Brie on a microwavable serving plate; top with mustard mixture. Microwave on high power 20 to 30 seconds or until cheese is slightly softened. Sprinkle with almonds. Serve as a spread with crackers. Makes 4 or more servings.

RASPBERRY-GLAZED PORK CHOPS

1 teaspoon butter OR margarine

4 boneless pork chops, about 3/4-inch thick (1 1/4 pounds)

1/2 cup seedless raspberry jam

1/3 cup raspberry OR balsamic vinegar

1/4 cup Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon grated orange peel

1 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves OR 1/2 teaspoon dried

Melt butter in a large skillet on medium-high heat. Add chops; cook 5 to 7 minutes per side, until browned on both sides. Mix remaining ingredients; spoon evenly over chops in skillet. Simmer, uncovered, 5 minutes or until sauce is reduced to a glaze consistency and chops are cooked through, turning chops occasionally. Makes 4 servings.

GARLIC MASHED POTATOES DIJON

2 pounds potatoes, peeled and cubed

1 medium onion, chopped

3 cloves garlic, minced

Water

1/4 cup Dijon mustard

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter OR margarine, melted

1/4 to 1/2 cup milk

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

Cook potatoes, onion and garlic in boiling water in a large covered saucepan 20 minutes or until potatoes are tender; drain. Beat potato mixture in a large bowl with an electric mixer on medium speed until smooth. Gradually beat in mustard, butter and enough milk to make potatoes smooth and well blended. Stir in parsley. Serve immediately. Makes 6 servings.

ORANGE CHICKEN PICCATA

1 pound boneless skinless chicken breasts, pounded thin

2 tablespoons flour

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1/2 cup orange juice

1/4 cup honey mustard

1/4 orange marmalade

1/4 teaspoon rosemary leaves, crushed

1 orange, thinly sliced and quartered

Coat chicken with flour; shake off excess. Heat oil in a nonstick skillet. Add chicken and cook about 5 minutes, until browned on both sides. Mix orange juice, mustard, marmalade and rosemary. Add to skillet and heat to boiling. Simmer, uncovered, over medium-low heat 5 minutes until chicken is no longer pink in center and sauce thickens slightly. Stir in orange pieces; heat through. Serve with rice, if desired. Makes 4 servings.

SAUCE DIJON A LA PROVENCAL

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can diced OR stewed tomatoes, undrained

2 small onions, quartered

1/4 cup Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon sugar

In a medium saucepan, combine tomatoes, onions, mustard and sugar. Heat to boiling over medium heat. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer 25 minutes or until onions are tender, stirring occasionally. Serve hot over cooked chicken, beef, fish or pasta. Makes about 2 cups.

COARSE-GROUND MUSTARD WITH HONEY AND TARRAGON

Use this recipe as a guide, not a blueprint. After the mustard has rested for a day or two, taste it and decide whether to add more tarragon or honey or vinegar.

1/2 cup light OR dark mustard seeds

3 tablespoons (lightly packed) dry mustard powder, preferably imported

2/3 cup water

3/4 cup white wine vinegar OR rice vinegar

3 tablespoons mild-flavored honey OR 2 tablespoons light corn syrup plus 1 tablespoon strongly flavored honey

2 teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon leaves OR more to taste (2 teaspoons crumbled dried tarragon or to taste, may be substituted)

If you possess a spice mill: Grind mustard seeds in it to texture of coarse meal. Stir ground seeds with mustard powder and water and set aside, uncovered, for at least 2 hours or as long as overnight, giving it a stir when you think of it.

If you use a blender or food processor to do the grinding: Combine mustard seeds, mustard powder and water in container and process everything to a coarse puree. Set mixture aside as described.

Combine mustard mixture with vinegar, honey, salt and tarragon. Process mixture in a blender or food processor to texture that suits you, from slightly coarse to creamy.

Store mustard in a clean, dry jar, tightly capped, at room temperature if you would like it to mellow gradually, or refrigerate it at once to retain maximum hotness. It can be used at once, but a few days' rest in the jar will allow the flavor to develop. Makes about 2 cups.

From ``Fancy Pantry,'' by Helen Witty.

Mustard tidbits 

--For more information on the Mount Horeb Mustard Museum in Mount Horeb, Wis., founded by Barry Levenson, a former Wisconsin state assistant attorney general, and which opened to the public in 1992, visit www.mustardmuseum.com or call [phone]. The museum, housed in a 100-year-old building, has 4,037 new and old mustards on display along with a collection of antique mustard pots, old mustard ads and other memorabilia and exhibits related to mustard lore. There's also a gift shop. Open daily except Christmas, New Year's, Easter and Thanksgiving. Admission is free. The museum also has a catalog available that offers a wealth of mustards (categorized by fruit, herb and veggie, garlic, horseradish, pepper-hot, spirit, exotic, American, etc.), mustard seeds, mustard powder, mustard pots and much more.

--A good source for unique mustards is the Napa Mustard Co. in Napa, owned by Lionel and Rose Jacobs. It offers about 30 unusual mustards including Merlot & Chocolate; Chocolate Fudge; Tequila & Jalapeno; Cognac & Pepper; and Vodka & Tomato. To order ($5 per 10-ounce jar plus shipping), see www.napamustard.com or call [phone] (a catalog is also available).

A couple of other good Web sites for mustards are www.oakvillegrocery.com and www.robertrothschild.com.

--For information on the events of the 2004 Napa Valley Mustard Festival, Jan. 31-March 27, call [phone] or see www.mustardfestival.org. The Marketplace, a showcase of mustards, wines, other foods and art (which can be purchased), is the signature event and will be held March 13 and 14 at the Napa Valley Exposition. The festival also features a worldwide mustard competition. More than 300 mustards were entered in the 14 categories by six countries this year.

--If you want to try your hand at making a variety of mustards from scratch, doctoring them up, or want more ideas for cooking with mustard, pick up a copy of the recently revised and expanded ``Gourmet Mustards: The How-Tos of Making & Cooking With Mustards,'' (Sibyl Publications; $7.95) by Helene Sawyer and Cheryl Long. Among the easy mustard recipes are Champagne Mustard, Basic Dijon-Style Mustard, Green Peppercorn Mustard, Red Wine Mustard, Chinese Hot Mustard and more.

--For a free copy of ``The Maille Ultimate Picnique Guide,'' a 24-page color booklet with recipes and tips from New York chef Daniel Boulud, send a 9 1/2-by-6 1/2-inch self-addressed envelope to: The Maille Ultimate Picnique Guide, c/o Fleishman-Hillard, 220 E. 42nd St., 12th Floor, New York, NY 10017. (Supplies are limited.)

- Natalie Haughton

CAPTION(S):

5 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) Beyond yellow

Mustard momentum

Andy Holzman/Staff Photographer

(2 -- color) CAJUN CHICKEN NUGGETS AND GRILLED FRUIT

(3 -- color) LUAU SPARERIBS

(4 -- color) SPINACH AND GRAPEFRUIT SALAD

(5 -- color) ORANGE CHICKEN PICCATA

Box:

Mustard tidbits (see text)