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MICHAEL'S COVERS ALL THE BASES.


Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

THEY'VE GOT it all at Michael's Bar & Grill in Burbank.

Or so it seems in these days of short, concise menus.

There are plenty of finger-food options for the drinkers and sports gazers and decent starter efforts with a lively snapper snapper, name for members of the Lutianidae, a family of spiny-finned food and game fishes found chiefly in tropical coastal waters. Snappers are carnivorous, active, and voracious, with large mouths and sharp teeth. Most species travel in dense schools.  ceviche ce·vi·che or se·vi·che  
n.
Raw fish marinated in lime or lemon juice with olive oil and spices and served as an appetizer.



[American Spanish, from Spanish cebiche, fish stew, from
 ($9.99) and sweet steamed clams in a slightly salty white wine and garlic broth ($8.99).

Michael's, which took over where Piero's and East Coast left off, also makes a satisfying, full-flavored tortilla soup ($3.99 by itself) that can be added to an entree for only $2.29.

Yet its panko-coated crab cakes ($8.99), a trifle too pasty for me, are merely passable pass·a·ble  
adj.
1. That can be passed, traversed, or crossed; navigable: a passable road.

2. Acceptable for general circulation: passable currency.

3.
.

The menu, which unashamedly un·a·shamed  
adj.
Feeling or showing no remorse, shame, or embarrassment:



una·sham
 utilizes Italian, Asian and Mexican flavorings and culinary accents, lists at least nine salad options and 10 additional appetizer choices.

Dinners run the gamut from fish tacos ($10.99) and a burger plate ($8.99) to a barbecue combination offering of two types of ribs and chicken ($25.99). Diners may also choose from a presentable pre·sent·a·ble  
adj.
1. That can be given, displayed, or offered: presentable gifts; presentable attire.

2. Fit for introduction to others: presentable relatives.
 list of pasta creations and several beef, poultry and fish items.

But what Michael's kitchen appears to do best are its meats: steaks, prime rib and an impressively cooked, chipotle-rubbed pork tenderloin entree ($12.99).

On the first visit, much of the fare tasted over-salted, yet this wasn't the case at all the next time.

Could there have been a different chef on hand?

An inviting penne with lobster tails dish ($19.99) disappointed because of oversalting (and overbaking) along with the aforementioned clam broth.

Even the mashed potato and vegetable accompaniments seemed less salty the second time.

On that occasion it was discovered that grilled corn on the cob could be had as one of the two inclusive side dishes with most entrees, the others being a baked potato, garlic or regular mashed potatoes, rice pilaf or sauteed veggies Veggies of Nottingham, also known as Veggies Catering Campaign, is a campaigning group based in Nottingham, England, promoting ethicalbum alternatives to mainstream fast food. .

It was also discovered that night that the Michael's-produced rendition of warmed chocolate lava cake ($4.95), only one of several dessert possibilities, is a very gratifying grat·i·fy  
tr.v. grat·i·fied, grat·i·fy·ing, grat·i·fies
1. To please or satisfy: His achievement gratified his father. See Synonyms at please.

2.
 way to end a meal here.

Not surprising at a restaurant that has so much to offer.

Larry Lipson, (818) 713-3668

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

MICHAEL'S BAR & GRILL

Food: Two and one half stars - Service: Three stars - Wine: Two and one half stars

Where: 2825 W. Olive Ave., Burbank.

Phone: (818) 842-3700; www.michaelsonolive.com.

Meals/hours: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.

Food type: American.

Cost: Starters from $1.50 to $11, pastas and entrees from $11 to $26, desserts $5 and $6.

Credit cards: All major.

Patio dining: Yes, quite extensive, with plasma television screen.

Parking/valet: Free self-parking on lot, plus street.

Full bar: Yes.

Wine/corkage: Small 25-label list ($15 to $69) and 15 wines by the glass ($5 to $9). Corkage cork·age  
n.
A charge exacted at a restaurant for every bottle of liquor served that was not bought on the premises.


corkage
Noun

a charge made at a restaurant for serving wine bought elsewhere

: $4.

Music/entertainment: Karaoke Monday nights after Monday Night Football “MNF” redirects here. For other uses, see MNF (disambiguation).

Monday Night Football (MNF) is a live television broadcast of the National Football League.
.

Takeout/delivery: Yes on takeout, no deliveries.

Reservations: Taken. Call (818) 842-3700.

CAPTION(S):

2 photos

Photo:

(1 -- 2) AT Michael's Bar & Grill in Burbank, a chicken breast, left, and the New York New York, state, United States
New York, Middle Atlantic state of the United States. It is bordered by Vermont, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and the Atlantic Ocean (E), New Jersey and Pennsylvania (S), Lakes Erie and Ontario and the Canadian province of
 steak, above, can be ordered with a variety of accompaniments, including fresh veggies, mashed potatoes, grilled corn and a baked potato.

Joe Binoya/Staff Photographer
COPYRIGHT 2005 Daily News
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 2005, Gale Group. All rights reserved. Gale Group is a Thomson Corporation Company.

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Article Details
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Publication:Daily News (Los Angeles, CA)
Article Type:Restaurant Review
Date:Oct 21, 2005
Words:544
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