MEXICO.

BUSINESS TRAVEL IN MEXICO CAN can be a pleasure, especially when you can tack on a few days of R&R, Mexico's rich cultural heritage is apparent in the churches, the food and the faces of its people, not hidden in a dusty museum.

The first step in appreciating Mexican culture is to slow down your mental clock. Social appointments tend to start late, and small talk about family members, the weather and Mexico's charms provide an important preliminary to business negotiations. Use courtesy titles such as licenciado or ingeniero whenever appropriate. And expect to be warmly and affectionately greeted with abrazos (hugs) by those with whom you've done business.

Business services (including secretarial, copy services, and modems for fax and email) are widely available. As in the United States, electrical current is 110 volts. Hotel guests are commonly asked to produce a charge card and sign a blank charge slip for expenses incurred during the stay. Sales tax (IVA) is 15%. Gasoline is sold by the liter; only cash is accepted, and there is no self-service. Tip the attendant a few pesos, as is the custom.

Unfortunately crime in urban areas remains on the increase, especially in Mexico City Leave valuables in hotel safes and don't carry extra cash or credit cards. However, bring at least US$20 so as not to anger any thief truly intent on making some quick cash.

As for your intestinal health, exercise common sense! Drink bottled water and wash your hands before meals. If you do come down with turista, local pharmacies sell anti-diarrhea drugs. Most important: Don't get paranoid about becoming sick, or you won't enjoy your trip. And there's lots to be enjoyed--tacos of meats grilled over an open flame; delicious salsas of dried or fresh chilies, prepared daily; rich desserts and sweetbreads; and agua fresca: delicious drinks made of fruits both familiar and exotic.

There are a few additional caveats for those traveling to Mexico City which sprawls seemingly without end across the vast, bowl-like central valley. Although not often visible because of the city's smog, the high plateau is surrounded by snow-covered volcanoes. Take it easy the first few days; at more than 7,000 feet, the altitude and air pollution (most severe between December and May) may clip your wings. In the rainy season, afternoon showers freshen the air.

Because of the significant pollution problem, driving in the capital city is restricted according to the last digit of your license plate; each car is prohibited from circulating at least one day a week. Check into this when renting a car, and don't forget to buy auto insurance.

If you prefer to travel by taxi, use radio taxis or those from an authorized stand whenever possible. Avoid roving cabs unless you're in a pinch, as a number of locals and foreigners have been mugged or set up by cab drivers. Official taxi stands at the international airport and first-class bus stations are reliable and sell set-price tickets.

If you must take a street cab, the green and white ones are generally in good condition and are required to use less-polluting, unleaded gas. But beware of fast stops. Because many taxis are Volkswagen Beetles, enterprising drivers have removed the front passenger seat to allow you some legroom--and, unfortunately, a faster meeting with the windshield in a sudden stop. Look for an older driver, advises one experienced local; he's less likely to be a thug who will rob you.

Once your business has been accomplished, take some time to reconnoiter. Although huge, Mexico City is not as intimidating as you might think You can easily spend a day exploring lively Chapultepec Park, whose 2,000 square acres are home to 11 museums and three lakes, as well as itinerant vendors hawking everything from colorful helium balloons to cheap sunglasses.

The amazing pyramids at Teotihuacan are just 50 km from the city center. Climb the 248 steps of the Pyramid of the Sun, the world's third-largest pyramid, for a view of the site. From this vantage point, imagine the Avenue of the Dead, below, as it was in the pre-Columbian city's glory days: bustling with commerce and lined with brightly painted temples and dwellings. On a clear day, you can also appreciate the active, snow-covered peak of Popocateptl volcano, just 65 km beyond.

MONTERREY

Less than 60 years after the Spaniards began razing the temples in Tenochtitlan in preparation for building Mexico City, they christened a tiny settlement in northern Mexico Ciudad Metropolitana de Nuestra Senora de Monterrey. Now known simply as Monterrey and capital of the state of Nuevo Leon, this city has been the country's industrial center since the first steel mill was built nearly a century ago.

Today, more than 8,000 businesses operate in Monterrey. Among them are the major industrial names of Mexico, such as Cemex, Femsa, Vitro and Imsa. From Monterrey come most of the country's important manufacturing products, including steel, cement, fibers, beer, and petrochemical and automotive products.

GUADALAJARA

For three centuries during colonial rule, Guadalajara was a major center of commerce and trade in Mexico. In modern times, the country's second-largest city is home to major manufacturers, serving as a kind of Mexican Silicon Valley for international computer and high-technology companies.

Business notwithstanding, the "City of Roses" is closely identified with many of Mexico's most cherished cultural traditions--mariachi music, charros (cowboys), classic Mexican dishes, and even tequila.