MEXICAN GOES MODERN FUSION INGREDIENTS FIRE UP REGIONAL FARE.

Byline: Natalie Haughton

Food Editor

The fiery spice of chiles and the refreshing tang of lime have always been the tasty back story in Mexican fare. The beans, rice and tortillas have become staples.

Now those basics are undergoing a change as they fuse with other foods and flavors to step up the options in Mexican cooking.

"The food has changed at El Torito Grill (locations in Sherman Oaks and throughout the Southland) and is now more upscale," says Roberto "Pepe" Lopez, executive chef of Real Mex Restaurants, who oversees and develops contemporary selections for the Grill menus as well as those of El Torito, Acapulco and Las Brisas. "We experiment (with new creations) the most at the Grill. When we first opened almost two decades ago, more combinations (plates) were on the menu.

The wood-fire mesquite grill and tortilla camal are key tools to making fresh menu selections.

"Now it's more like Mexican with fusion ingredients -- and we are doing more fish and steaks. In the last four years, I think people have been changing their tastes. Customers want Mexican influence but more upscale dishes."

Hotter and spicier items are also preferred. "We are now using chipotle, pasilla, habanero, serrano, jalapeno and guajillo chiles -- no Anaheims, as they are too mild.

"I go to Mexico twice a year to research ideas and taste authentic food in Mexico," says the 25-year company veteran who was born in Sinaloa and grew up eating a lot of seafood.

Unlike the Grill, the El Torito restaurant menu features more traditional Mexican fare, while Acapulco restaurants offer California Mexican food.

At Frida Mexican Cuisine, a 5-year-old, 75-seat Beverly Hills restaurant, customers can also dine on upscale, authentic Mexican cuisine, including handmade corn tortillas.

Most of the recipes used are from Mexico -- Southern, Northern and Central regions, including the Yucatan, Sonora, Mexico City, Acapulco, Puebla and more, says Vicente Del Rio, the manager.

People confuse Mexican and Tex-Mex cuisine.

"A lot of people think real enchiladas are in red and blue tortillas with yellow cheese," but that's more Tex-Mex. "The authentic ones are regular corn tortillas filled with cheese or chicken and a red, green or mole sauce topped with cheese and sour cream."

Trendy now are ceviches -- fresh and in lots of combinations with Asian foods, chiles, shrimp, tuna combined with onions, avocado and chile serrano, and prepared with soy sauce, lime and a touch of chipotle chile. "The sauce tastes amazing," says Del Rio.

Also popular are grilled tuna, shrimp or fish tostadas served with chipotle mayonnaise sauce and topped with avocado or guacamole.

Tequila martinis with a twist of lime on the rocks are also hip and chic, as are shots of frozen tequila.

Food and culture have evolved in this country over the last two decades, says Chicago restaurateur and chef Rick Bayless, co-owner of Frontera Grill and Topolobampo, in his recently released 20th Anniversary Edition of "Authentic Mexican, Regional Cooking from the Heart of Mexico," written with his wife, Deann Groen Bayless.

Because "Hispanics, the majority of them Mexican, have become the fastest-growing immigrant group in North America," most non-Hispanic Americans no longer need to travel south of the border to encounter a real taste of Mexico, he adds.

For home cooks, once-difficult-to-find ingredients such as chipotle chiles, dark green poblanos, fresh tomatillos, fresh cactus paddles, roasted tomatoes and key limes are now readily available in grocery stores and in a variety of forms (dried, ground, canned, pickled, etc.). Many have gone mainstream and are flavoring other things like barbecue sauces, salad dressings and chutneys, says Bayless. Salsa is now more popular than ketchup, and Haagen-Dazs dulce de leche ice cream is one of the company's best sellers.

CACTUS SALAD

Nopales, the edible pads of certain varieties of the prickly pear cactus, have been a staple of the Mexican diet since Aztec times. Jars of prepared nopalitos (sliced nopales) as well as the fresh cactus pads are available in Hispanic markets.

2 cups sliced prepared nopales, rinsed

8 sprigs cilantro, chopped

1/2 medium white onion, chopped

2 large tomatoes, seeded and chopped

4 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano 

3 to 4 pickled jalapenos, chopped, with 4 teaspoons liquid from the can

Leaf lettuce

1/4 cup shredded panela cheese

In a nonreactive bowl, mix together all ingredients except lettuce and cheese. Set aside at room temperature, 45 minutes, to allow flavors to meld. Serve on a bed of lettuce garnished with shredded cheese.

Makes 6 servings

From "Fonda San Miguel, Thirty Years of Food and Art," by Tom Gilliland and Miguel Ravago.

CORN TORTILLAS

Corn tortillas are an essential food in all regions of Mexico. To prepare corn tortillas, you'll need masa harina (flour made from corn) as well as a tortilla press and a flat griddle or comal. Any brand of packaged masa harina works fine. As a time-saver, you can look for a local tortilla factory or grocery store that sells fresh masa to the public.

2 cups masa harina plus additional as needed 

1 1/4 cups warm water

In a large mixing bowl, mix masa harina and water to make a soft dough. Add more masa harina if necessary to keep the dough from being sticky. Cover with plastic wrap and allow dough to rest 15 minutes. Divide dough into 15 equal portions, form balls of dough about the size of golf balls, and cover with plastic wrap or a dish towel so they do not dry out.

Heat an ungreased griddle or comal over medium heat (make sure it does not get too hot or the tortillas will burn). Line the blades of the tortilla press with 2 sheets of plastic (a split 1-quart zip-sealing plastic bag works well).

Put a ball of masa between the sheets of plastic wrap and press the two blades together gently. Open the press and carefully peel off the top sheet of plastic. Lift bottom sheet of plastic from the press; peel it away from the dough and slide tortilla onto the hot griddle, being careful not to flip it over. Cook about 20 seconds on first side. Using your fingers or a spatula, turn over and cook an additional 30 seconds on the second side. Turn over again and cook an additional 10 seconds on first side. Keep warm tortillas in a basket lined with a napkin or dish towel while cooking remaining tortillas.

Makes 15 (5- to 6-inch) corn tortillas

From "Fonda San Miguel, Thirty Years of Food and Art," by Tom Gilliland and Miguel Ravago.

RANCHERO SAUCE

3 tablespoons vegetable oil (canola, peanut, etc.)

1 cup chopped white OR yellow onion

1/2 cup chopped celery

1/2 cup chopped bell pepper (OR use green chiles such as Anaheim or ancho)

2 tablespoons Tex-Mex Spice

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 cups chicken broth

1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can whole tomatoes

Water, if needed

Heat oil over medium heat in a 1-quart saucepan or 10-inch cast-iron skillet. Add onion, celery and bell pepper. Turn down heat and cook just until onion is translucent. Do not allow vegetables to brown. Add Tex-Mex Spice and flour, mixing well. Simmer until flour begins to color, about 3 to 4 minutes, watching carefully to prevent burning.

Add chicken broth, tomato sauce and whole tomatoes. With a flat spatula, scrape bottom of pan and break up tomatoes in sauce. Turn heat to low and let sauce simmer gently for 25 to 30 minutes. Add water, if necessary, to make 1 quart. Use sauce for catfish, steak or chicken, chiles rellenos, huevos rancheros, tostadas and enchiladas.

Makes 1 quart

TEX-MEX SPICE: Combine 3 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons ground cumin, 3 tablespoons granulated garlic, 2 tablespoons salt and 1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper. Mix well. Keeps well in an airtight container or zip-sealing plastic bag. Makes about 1/2 cup.

VARIATION: For a more piquant version, add 3 whole jalapenos to sauce when mixing in tomatoes. Remove jalapenos and set aside. After gently cooking 25 to 30 minutes, break up 1 jalapeno in a small bowl and stir back into sauce. Taste. If additional heat is desired, continue adding jalapenos to taste.

From "Mex Tex, Traditional Tex-Mex Taste," by Matt Martinez.

CHIPOTLE-MARINATED GRILLED RIB EYE

1/2 cup lime juice (about 4 limes)

3 chipotle chiles in adobo sauce 

3 tablespoons packed light brown sugar

Kosher salt

1 cup olive oil

2 rib eye steaks (about 16 ounces EACH and 1-inch thick)

Freshly ground black pepper

Combine lime juice, chiles, brown sugar and 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt in a blender. With blender running, add olive oil in a steady stream and continue to blend about 4 minutes to form a frothy emulsion.

Place steaks in a large glass baking dish and pour 1/2 of chipotle marinade over them. Turn steaks to coat. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight. Refrigerate remaining marinade separately.

Remove reserved marinade and steaks from refrigerator 15 to 30 minutes before grilling. Preheat a grill to high.

Remove steaks from marinade (discard this marinade) and season on both sides with salt and pepper. Place steaks on grill and cook, undisturbed, about 5 minutes, before turning with tongs. Cook an additional 5 minutes for medium-rare. Transfer steaks to a cutting board and let rest 5 minutes before cutting each into 2 servings. Serve reserved marinade in a small container to be spooned over steaks at the table.

Makes 4 servings

From "Isabel's Cantina: Bold Latin Flavors From the New California Kitchen," by Isabel Cruz, to be released in August by Clarkson Potter/Publishers.

CRAB-MEAT ENCHILADAS WITH SOUR CREAM SAUCE

CRAB-MEAT FILLING:

1 1/4 pounds lump crab meat

6 tablespoons olive oil

3 tablespoons butter

3 garlic cloves, chopped

1 medium white onion, chopped

2 pickled jalapenos, chopped, with 1/4 cup liquid from the can

2 OR 3 pickled carrots, chopped

2 medium tomatoes, seeded and chopped

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

Sea salt and ground black pepper to taste

SOUR CREAM SAUCE:

3 cups sour cream

3/4 cup milk

1 teaspoon sea salt

1 teaspoon ground white pepper

ENCHILADAS:

6 tablespoons vegetable oil

12 corn tortillas

Prepare Crab-Meat Filling. Pick through crab meat and remove any bits of shell or cartilage, taking care not to break up lumps. In a heavy nonreactive skillet, heat oil and butter over medium heat, add garlic and onion, and saute until onion is wilted and transparent. Add jalapenos and juice, carrots, tomatoes, parsley and cilantro and cook about 3 minutes; season to taste with salt and pepper. Reduce heat to low and cook until mixture thickens, about 20 minutes. Add crab meat and cook until crab meat is just heated through. Adjust seasonings as needed. Keep warm.

Prepare Sour Cream Sauce. In a small bowl, whisk all sauce ingredients together; set aside.

For Enchiladas, in a small skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat until it shimmers (and is very hot so tortillas won't absorb too much oil). Using tongs, dip each tortilla into hot oil about 10 to 15 seconds, or until softened. Drain on paper towels. Place 3 tablespoons Crab-Meat Filling down center of each tortilla and roll it up. Arrange 2 enchiladas on each serving plate. Top with Sour Cream Sauce and serve immediately.

Makes 6 to 8 servings

From "Fonda San Miguel, Thirty Years of Food and Art," by Tom Gilliland and Miguel Ravago.

Hungry for more?

Adobe Cantina

29100 Agoura Road, Agoura Hills

[phone]

A fun outdoor-dining setting with patios, fire pits and fountains.

Border Grill

1445 Fourth St., Santa Monica

[phone]

Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger, the Two Hot Tamales, have raised the bar on Mexican cuisine.

El Torito Grill

15301 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks

[phone]

Innovative, upscale Mexican fusion cuisine.

Loteria! Grill

Farmers Market at the Grove

6333 W. Third St., Los Angeles

[phone]

The Mexican food is heavenly in this bare-bones setting, say fans.

Sonora Cafe

180 S. La Brea Blvd., Los Angeles

[phone]

It's been offering innovative Mexican/Southwestern food for years.

Tamayo

5300 E. Olympic Blvd., East Los Angeles 

[phone]

This attractive restaurant features artwork from the late Rufino Tamayo and delicious food.

Frida Mexican Cuisine

236 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills

[phone]

Stylish, gourmet Mexican restaurant.

La Serenata de Garibaldi

1842 E. First St., L.A.,

[phone];

also 1416 Fourth St., Santa Monica,

[phone]

La Serenata Gourmet

10924 W. Pico Blvd., West Los Angeles 

[phone]

All three Serenata locations serve delicious Mexican fare -- some say it's fabulous.

CAPTION(S):

8 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) Anything but flat

Mexican cuisine is hot and hip

Photographed at El Torito Grill

(2 -- color) Mercedes Gonzales makes tortillas on a camal at El Torito Grill in Sherman Oaks.

Michael Owen Baker/Staff Photographer

(3 -- color) CACTUS SALAD

From "Fonda San Miguel, Thirty Years of Food and Art," Shearer Publishing

Some of the trendy new creations in the works that will be added to El Torito Grill restaurant menus today include:

(4 -- color) AHI TUNA: Covered with cumin and cayenne pepper, then seared (not cooked through), served with a tamarind-chipotle sauce, serrano chile-fennel mashed potatoes, grilled asparagus and papaya relish.

(5 -- color) ENSALADA DE CEVICHE: An appetizer or salad made by marinating raw ahi tuna a couple of hours in a mixture of salt, black pepper, ground-up Peruvian chile (ajei) and shrimp broth. Chopped cucumber and papaya are added, and then it's topped with habanero red onions (marinated in lime juice and habanero chiles).

(6 -- color) PICANTE STEAK: Top sirloin steak marinated 2 hours in cayenne pepper, garlic, cilantro, salt and olive oil, then mesquite-grilled. Served with caramelized onions and roasted corn, grilled asparagus, serrano chile-fennel mashed potatoes and a corn cake.

(7 -- color) SANTA FE TORTE: Although this isn't new, it's a popular menu favorite and has been tweaked a little through the years. The stacked 5-inch-diameter round creation is made by layering corn and red chile crepes (made at the restaurant) with a filling mixture of diced cooked chicken breast, red chile sauce, corn, diced pasilla chiles and shredded Jack cheese in between. Topped off with mango-pineapple salsa, it's served surrounded with red chile and jalapeno sauces. - N.H.

(8 -- color) no caption (tortilla)

Box:

Hungry for more? (see text)