MELODY'S IN RESEDA HAS MEXICAN-FOOD FANS HUMMING.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic WITH ITS POLICY of cash only, the revamped Melody's Fresh Mexican Kitchen has just about become an institution on the corner of Reseda Boulevard and Saticoy Street. Hungry diners line up patiently to place their order and pay in advance. They then hurry into the dining room, hoping to secure a table, sometimes forced into the enclosed side patio area because every seat in the room is occupied. A trip to the serve-yourself salsa bar allows choices of at least three hot and three mild salsas Salsas is a Portuguese parish in the district of Bragança. The population in 2001 is 424, its density is 16.5/km² and the area is 25.76 km². plus onions, cilantro and whole yellow chiles. Eventually, the number on the computerized receipt is called and a tray with the ordered food is presented at the counter with plastic cutlery. If a full meal has been purchased, it makes sense to request that hot starter dishes be readied before the main items, especially if the beginning dish is Melody's superb chicken rice soup ($3.15) with avocado, cilantro and tortillas on the side. This, titled ``consome de pollo,'' is pretty much the same as the Las Fuentes signature soup, a warming, nutritious dish that comforts the body and soul, particularly when winter weather shows up. But there are those who prefer to start out with something other than soup. Highly recommendable here are Melody's taquitos ($3.05), half a dozen of them per serving, crisped crisped adj. Botany Crispate. , not too oily and filled generously with a recognizable mixture - so many elsewhere are not. Delivered with guacamole and sour cream, these top-quality taquitos - especially the chicken-filled ones - introduce newcomers to the higher standard of Mexican food that Melody's, despite its counter-service arrangement, puts forth. More evidence of such can be found in a delicious poblano po·bla·no n. A cultivar of the tropical pepper (Capsicum annum) having a mild or fairly pungent dark green, thick-skinned fruit used in cooking. chile quesadilla que·sa·dil·la n. A flour tortilla folded in half around a savory filling, as of cheese or beans, then fried or toasted. [American Spanish, from Spanish, diminutive of quesada, ($4.70) and a Melody's steak burrito, particularly the ``burrito de bistek encebollado'' ($5.50) containing plenty of pieces of juicy, chewable beef and grilled onions. The cooking is careful, good and occasionally displays flair. Get the cold chicken salpicon Sal´pi`con n. 1. Chopped meat, bread, etc., used to stuff legs of veal or other joints; stuffing; farce. tostada ($5.15) and you'll immediately notice the eye appeal of the attractive arrangement of chicken with lettuce, cotija cheese This article is about the variety of cheese. For other uses, see Cotija. Cotija cheese, or queso añejado (Spanish: "aged cheese"), is a hard cow's milk cheese which originates in Mexico. It is named after the town of Cotija, Michoacán. , beans, sour cream, avocado and pico de gallo Pico de gallo (Spanish for "rooster's beak") is the term generally referring to a fresh condiment made from chopped tomato, onion, and chiles (typically serranos or jalapeños). on crispy tortillas. There's only one tamale Tamale (təmä`lē), town (1984 pop. 136,828), capital of the Northern Region, N Ghana. It is a road junction and agricultural trade and education center. plate ($3.95) and the beef choice indicates it's a superior one. Like carnitas? Melody's satisfies with its tasty fried pork entree plate ($7.25). And for endings, there's a refrigerated re·frig·er·ate tr.v. re·frig·er·at·ed, re·frig·er·at·ing, re·frig·er·ates 1. To cool or chill (a substance). 2. To preserve (food) by chilling. case of desserts that includes a big wedge of cold, moist chocolate cake ($1.85); a creamy, eggy version of Mexican ``jericalla'' egg custard ($1.85); and my favorite, a Jell-o and fruit concoction called ``gelatina 'gu-gu' '' ($1.65). Finish with the latter and the taste of Melody's truly lingers on. Larry Lipson, (818) 713-3668 larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com MELODY'S FRESH MEXICAN KITCHEN Food: Three stars - Value: Three stars Where: 6747 Reseda Blvd., Reseda. Hours: Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. Recommended items: Chicken soup chicken soup Chicken broth Folk medicine Jewish penicillin A fowl broth with a long tradition as a home remedy for URIs, which may be a nasal decongestant, inhibit growth of pneumococci in vitro, and stimulate immune responsiveness in WBCs Mainstream medicine A , taquito bite, poblano quesadilla, steak burrito encebollado, chicken salpicon tostada, beef tamale combination plate, carnitas plate, Jell-o and fruit dessert. How much: Starters from $2 to $4.80, main items from $3.50 to $9, desserts $1.65 and $1.85. Beer, wine and margaritas. No credit cards or checks. Cash only. Reservations: Not taken. First come, first served. Information or takeout: (818) 609-9062. CAPTION(S): photo Photo: The chicken salpicon tostada at Melody's Fresh Mexican Kitchen tastes as good as it looks. Ingredients include lettuce, cotija cheese, beans, sour cream, avocado and pico de gallo. Phil McCarten/Staff Photographer |
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