MEATLESS ON THE GRILL.

Here are some great ways to enjoy a summer barbecue while still skipping the steak.

Summertime grilling means good times, good friends, and great food. And if you are a vegetarian cook who longs for the taste of grilled food, or thought grills were only for those with a stomach for blackened steaks and burgers, then there's good news. With a small garden or a farmers' market nearby and a grill on the deck, you are ready for a new adventure in cooking. Meatless grilling is limited only by the cook's imagination!

For some people the grill is an appliance they occasionally use when guests come or for a special weekend meal. But for the last couple summers the grill at our house has become the mainstay for summer dinners.

Grills are usually used for only one cooking function--grilling. But they can also be used for slow roasting and baking (which is also called indirect heat). Using the grill for both of these cooking chores makes it a much more versatile appliance--especially for vegetarian grillers.

To create indirect heat for roasting or baking, use a kettle grill that is at least 21-24 inches in diameter. (It doesn't work well on small portable grills.) Start with coals that are cooled to a medium intensity. You can grill foods that need a higher temperature first. With a long-handled spatula, move the coals over to one side of the grill. Place the food to be cooked on the opposite side of the grill. Cover and roast. I often keep a couple bricks nearby to raise the baking dish away from the fire if it still feels too hot.

Gas grills provide an indirect source of heat even more easily. If you have more than two burners on your gas grill, heat the outside burners, place the dish on the middle unheated burner, and close the lid. If you have only two burners, preheat both to medium, turn one off, and place the bread or casserole on that burner; close the lid. Generally dishes that are baked in an oven will take a little less time on the grill.

When using a two-burner gas grill, it is best to check the dish at least half-way through the cooking and turn it to ensure even heating. Some grills tend to have hot spots. The key to success is to know your particular grill.

There is something socially magnetizing about gathering around a fire--even if it's a modern-day gas grill in the backyard. Grilling is fun and simple--not a lot of kitchen science is necessary. Just taste, smell, use your own judgment, and you're on your way. Grilling also fits into the busy lives of today's families as it yields a maximum of great flavor for a minimum of labor.

Is Grilling Safe?

Scientists at the University of California Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory have studied both gas and briquette fires and found there is no difference in their health safety.

The primary health problem with grills is in the grilling of meats, or more specifically, the charring of them--no matter what type of fire they are cooked on. When meats are cooked more than 400 [degrees] F potent carcinogens are formed called heterocyclic aromatic amines, or HAAs. They are strong mutagens that cause cancer in lab animals. A second carcinogen is formed from the smoke. Fat that drips and burns on grill coals produces polyaromatic hydrocarbons, which rise up in smoke and stick onto the food. These two carcinogens are not formed at all in vegetable-based foods or vegetable fats as far as scientists know.

The risk, as we now know it, is very limited for vegetarian grillers. However, the carcinogenicity of all foods increases when they are cooked at higher temperatures for longer periods of time. An overcooked pizza tested at the Lawrence Livermore Labs had a high rate of carcinogenicity. A safe choice for all cooking is to stay near the grill and cook foods only as needed.

Tips for Grilling Vegetables

Grilling brings out the smoky sweetness of vegetables and doesn't over-complicate their fresh-picked flavors. Almost any vegetable with a high water content can be successfully grilled. Mesquite is the flavored wood of choice for most vegetable dishes. However, if the food is to remain on the grill for less than five minutes flavored wood smoke does not make much of a difference.

SUMMER SQUASH AND SWEET PEPPERS

Placing larger amounts of vegetables (and potatoes) in foil and cooking on the grill works well. But placing vegetables directly on the grill gives a more smoky flavor. To grill vegetables sear them over high heat, then move them to the grill's edge to finish cooking over low heat. They must be monitored carefully, as the difference between nicely charred but still crunchy and blackened can be a difference of only a few minutes.

Grilling screens or baskets are available at most hardware or barbecue stores. They are an important tool when cooking vegetables, tofu, and other delicate foods that may fall through the grill.

Artichokes, beets, broccoli, sweet potatoes, and in some cases potatoes need to be precooked, or they are blackened before they ever soften enough to eat. These can either be blanched on top of the stove or microwaved for a few minutes. All vegetables that are precooked should be cooked just until a knife can pierce them.

The cut sides of vegetables need to be brushed with olive oil before grilling to avoid a dried-out look. Eggplant, zucchini, corn, potatoes, and a few other vegetables are best if brushed before grilling. Other vegetables such as tomatoes and onions (that require a short time on the grill) do not necessarily need to be brushed--thus cutting back on the fat even further.

Grilling times for vegetables are very, very general. It all depends on how hot your grill is and the size of the vegetables. Both of these can vary immensely. You must move them around the grill, rolling and turning them. Use tongs or a large metal spatula to turn foods; forks puncture the surface and allow flavorful juices to drain away. When a fork can easily pierce them, they're done.

MARINATED AND GRILLED SUMMER SQUASH

Crookneck, zucchini, and the yellow sunburst squash all come to life on the grill. A grilling basket is a very useful tool on the grill for vegetables so that they will not fall through the grill.

1   pound small summer squash
    (yellow or crookneck)
3/4  cup Summer Herb Marinade
    (see recipe on page 21)

1. Preheat a gas grill to high, or build a fire in a kettle grill.

2. Wash and slice squashes lengthwise into quarters or about 1/3-inch-thick slices.

3. Add marinade to a shallow bowl. Add squash to the bowl and marinate 30-60 minutes turning occasionally to mix marinade with squashes.

4. Add squashes to a vegetable grilling basket and grill 7-10 minutes, turning, until squashes are charred but still fork tender. Makes 4-6 servings.

GRILLED VEGETABLE RATATOUILLE

For best flavor do this recipe about an hour before guests arrive. Ratatouille never tastes as good as when it is infused with the smoky flavor of the grill.

2   T. extra virgin olive oil
1   medium-large eggplant, cut in
    1/3-inch slices
1   large red onion, sliced 1/3-inch thick
1   red bell pepper, halved
1   yellow bell pepper, halved
1   green bell pepper, halved
3   medium-size tomatoes, cut into
    bite-sized chunks
3   T. fresh basil, chopped
3   T. lemon juice
1   T. capers
    salt (to taste)
1/4 cup Italian parsley, chopped

1. Preheat a gas grill, or build a fire in a kettle grill.

2. Brush all vegetables except the tomato with olive oil and grill until fork tender. Set aside to cool.

3. Add cut-up tomatoes to a large bowl. Add the basil, lemon juice, capers, salt, and parsley. When the grilled vegetables have cooled enough to touch, peel peppers and dice all vegetables into uniform bite-sized pieces. Add to the bowl and toss to mix.

4. Set aside for 30 minutes or up to 2 hours to allow flavors to blend. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Makes 6-8 servings.

SUMMER VEGETABLE KABOBS WITH SEITAN 

1   package of seitan (rinsed and cut,
    into 1-inch kabob-sized cubes)
    (1 package of extra firm tofu,
    rinsed and drained, can be
    substituted)
2   bell peppers--a variety of colors,
    cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
2-3 small summer squash, cut 3/4-inch
    thick
1/4 of a fresh pineapple, cut in chunks
    or 1/2 can (20-ounce) of pineapple
    chunks
1/2 pound medium-size button
    mushrooms, rinsed
2-3 firm tomatoes, quartered
2-3 small boiling onions or 1 medium
    red onion, quartered and layers
    separated
1   recipe of Summer Herb Marinade
     (see recipe on page 21)

1. Add all cut-up vegetables and seitan (or tofu) to a large plastic container with a tight-fitting lid. Add the marinade and let sit for 6 to 12 hours. While they marinate turn the container upside down or stir every few hours so marinade soaks through all vegetables.

2. Preheat a gas grill, or build a fire in a kettle grill.

3. Thread the vegetables on metal skewers making several skewers with seitan (or tofu), peppers, and onion. Make several other skewers with pineapple, mushrooms, squash, and tomatoes. Each of these groups will grill about the same amount of time.

4. Grill, turning occasionally, for 8 to 10 minutes for the pineapple, mushrooms, and squash. Grill the seitan, peppers, and onion about 10 to 15 minutes. Place skewers on a large platter so that each person can take as much from each one as they want. Serves 6-8 people.

SUMMER HERB MARINADE

4   large cloves garlic, peeled
1/8 t. salt
4   T. lemon juice
2   T. water
4   T. olive oil
1   T. fresh oregano leaves
2   t. fresh thyme leaves
2   T. fresh basil leaves

Add all ingredients to the blender. Blend until smooth and refrigerate until needed. Makes about 3/4 of a cup.

POLENTA CASSEROLE WITH SUMMER SQUASH AND SWEET PEPPERS

2   t. butter
2   t. olive oil
1   small onion, coarsely chopped
1   red bell pepper, cut into 1/2-inch
    pieces
2   small red-skinned new potatoes,
    cut into 1/2-inch pieces
3   cloves garlic, minced
2   medium yellow squash, cut into
    3/4-inch pieces
1/2 cup polenta
1/4 cup whole-wheat pastry flour
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan
    cheese
1   T. fresh thyme leaves
1   t. salt
1   cup milk
1   large egg
1   egg white
6   T. grated Gruyere cheese
(about 2 ounces)

1. Build a fire in a kettle grill, or preheat a gas grill to medium. Prepare grill for roasting (baking) as described above. Generously rub a 9-inch-square baking dish with olive oil.

2. In a large heavy skillet, melt the butter and the oil over moderately high heat on the grill or over a stove. Add the onion, bell pepper, and potatoes and cook, stirring, for 3-5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until the vegetables are partially softened but not browned (about 2 minutes). Add the squash; cook, stirring, until almost tender (about 4 minutes). Set aside.

3. In a large bowl, toss together the polenta, flour, Parmesan cheese, thyme, and salt. In a separate bowl, whisk together the milk and egg, then whisk them into the polenta mixture until combined. Stir the vegetables into the loose batter and spread it in the prepared baking dish. (This is fairly moist.)

4. Cover with aluminum foil, and place over indirect heat on a medium hot grill about 30 minutes or until firm. Remove the aluminum foil the last 15 minutes on the grill. Sprinkle the Gruyere on top for the last 5 minutes, or until golden around the edges. Cut into squares and serve hot or at room temperature. Makes 6-8 servings.

BLUEBERRY PEACH COBBLER ON THE GRILL

This cobbler from the grill is a highlight of the summer and always gets recipe requests. It can bake on the grill while you and your guests enjoy dinner. Best of all, there is no hot oven to warm up the kitchen on a summer night.

1/2     cup butter, melted
1/4     cups wheat pastry flour
1/2     cup sugar
3/4     cup milk
4       cups sliced peaches, washed
1 1/2   cups fresh or frozen blueberries
1       T. butter
1/4-1/3 cup sugar or 2 T. honey (depending
        on sweetness of fruit)
2-3     T. lemon juice
1       T. cornstarch
1       T. almond extract

1. When coals in the kettle grill have cooled to a medium temperature, prepare for indirect heat or preheat a gas grill for indirect heat following instructions above.

2. In a small saucepan melt butter.

3. Measure and add together the dry ingredients in a large bowl. Add the milk and melted butter to the dry ingredients and stir to combine. Set aside.

4. Add the peaches and blueberries to a 6"x 9" baking pan. Use either a pan that is reserved for the grill or an aluminum foil pan.

5. Using the same saucepan, melt the tablespoon butter and add the honey, lemon juice, cornstarch, and almond extract just until warmed through. Pour this mixture over the blueberries and peaches, and mix to combine.

6. Spread the cobbler dough evenly over the fruit. Cover tightly with aluminum foil. Bake to a golden brown over medium heat on the grill for 35-50 minutes. Remove foil the last 20 minutes of baking. Makes 8-10 servings.

GINGER PEAR CRUMBLE

This simple dessert is just enough to satisfy. Try adding a small amount of ginger to the whipped cream as well.

3/4 cup whole-wheat pastry flour or
    all-purpose white flour
1   T. lemon zest, grated
1   T. fresh ginger, grated
    cup brown sugar
1/4 cup butter
5   cups pears, sliced
1   T. lemon juice
    whipped cream or frozen yogurt
    (as desired)

1. Prepare grill for indirect heat as described previously.

2. Mix the flour, lemon zest, ginger, and brown sugar in a bowl. Using a pastry cutter, two knives, or a food processor, cut the butter into the flour mixture until the mixture is crumbly but not sticky.

3. Place the pear slices in an 8" x 8" square baking dish, spreading them evenly. Sprinkle with lemon juice. Spoon the crumb mixture over the top of the pears.

4. Bake on the grill for 20 to 30 minutes, checking for doneness periodically (when the pears are tender and the top is browned). This dish will be juicy.

5. Serve straight from the grill with just a dollop of whipped cream or frozen yogurt (as desired). Makes 6-8 servings.

GRILLED EGGPLANT SLICES

These eggplant slices will melt in your mouth. Top them with just a spoonful of a flavorful tomato sauce or a few gratings of fresh Parmesan cheese.

1   large eggplant (about 1 1/4 pounds)
3   T. extra virgin olive oil
2   T. lemon juice
2   cloves garlic, minced, or 1/2 t. powdered
1/2 t. salt
1/4 t. crumbled thyme

1. Preheat a gas grill to high, or build a fire in a kettle grill. Mesquite-flavored chips would taste great (optional).

2. Slice eggplant in 1/3- to 1/2-inch slices. In a small bowl add together the olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, salt, and thyme. Brush both sides of the eggplant slices with this sauce.

3. Place eggplant on the preheated grill. If you with to have nice grill lines, turn only once on each side. Grill about 10-15 minutes. Test for tenderness (doneness) by piercing with a fork. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Patti Bess is a freelance writer from Grass Valley, California. Her first book, entitled Vegetarian Barbecue, was released in May 1998 by Lowell House.