MEATING OF THE MINDS SIZZLIN' PLATTER TURNS OUT SKILLFULLY PREPARED STEAKS WITH MINIMAL FRILLS, MAXIMUM FLAVOR.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

A $10 STEAK DINNER with a $10 bottle of wine has become a reality with the advent of the Sizzlin' Platter in Encino.

Actually priced at $9.95, the steak is a 10-ounce New York cut, cooked to order. Tried medium-rare it came up tender, pink and juicy one night recently.

At no extra cost, there's a fair-size baked potato (with sour cream and chives) to be had with it, a passable salad with a choice of several dressings and a thick slice of darn good garlic bread.

So where's the catch?

It's the simple fact that you order everything at a counter and pay for it in advance.

Then you proceed to a table of your choice after picking up your cutlery, paper napkins and soft drink or water with a numbered piece of plastic that you insert in a holder.

The number indicates to a server what order goes where.

So, in essence, the catch is less service, presumably translating into lower business costs, and a no-frills decor.

But, at least, you don't have to carry your food. Only your drink cups.

However, if you order a bottle of $10 wine (our Lindeman's merlot from Australia was quite pleasant one day), wine glasses will be brought by a server.

People keep coming by your table asking if you need anything, which makes this suspiciously like regular service once you get past the ordering and paying part.

In fact, one day, as the plates were being cleared away, a staff person asked if we'd like dessert, so we opted for one slice of the chocolate fudge cake. Rich and moist, it came with spoons to the table.

But how does one pay for this, since the meal charges have already been settled?

We were caught off guard. ``It's on us,'' said the staffer, with a gracious smile, mumbling something about the possibility of our becoming regular customers.

If that were to happen, my preferred pick of the steak options here, though, would be the ``colossal'' New York ($11.95), topped with onions, a very satisfying, sizzling bargain indeed and well worth the additional $2.

As far as the remaining steaks, at ensuing visits, the ribeye (a 3/4- pound rendition, $11.95) and the smaller, leaner, more tender, but not quite as juicy filet mignon ($13.95), also appear to meet satisfaction standards.

Even the most expensive plate offered, a steak and lobster combination ($18.95) seems a good value for the price. However, on this occasion there was an obvious lack of heat in the lobster tail.

Moving to the inexpensive stuff, like trying the house meat loaf ($8.95) with mashed potatoes and gravy, seemed almost daring one time.

It looked like a pretty good choice, certainly a big enough portion with nicely steamed vegetables. It easily could have been considered outstanding if the seasoning in the meat loaf would have tasted a tad less salty.

But though the spotlight shines on beef here, there are plenty of ways to stray from the steak and narrow path. Pastas, chicken, seafood, entree-size salads, even pizzas, are regularly available.

Soups (chicken noodle, beef vegetable) have suggestions of being institutional, but even the cups ($2.95) are of welcome size and usually served hot.

What's more, they come free with any steak or seafood order.

At these prices, who can complain?

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

SIZZLIN' PLATTER

Food: three stars - Wine: two stars - Value: three and one half stars

Where: 17337 Ventura Blvd., Encino.

Hours: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday, from noon to 9 p.m. Sunday.

Recommended items: Signature sizzlin' platter steak, New York steak, steak and lobster, chocolate fudge cake.

How much: Starters and sandwiches from $3 to $7, pastas and entrees from $7 to $19, desserts $2.50 and $3. Beer and wine. All major credit cards.

Wine list: Small but economic starting selection of bottles at $10 each or $3.25 per glass. No corkage fee as a temporary opening promotion.

Reservations: Taken. Call [phone].

CAPTION(S):

photo

Photo:

The signature 10-ounce New York steak is accompanied by a baked potato, garlic bread and salad - all for just $9.95 - at the Sizzlin' Platter.

Tom Mendoza/Staff Photographer