MEALS MADE EASY HOW TO GET A GREAT DINNER ON THE TABLE ... PRONTO.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Shove those takeout menus back in the drawer and prepare something great for dinner without making yourself crazy. You can make real food with homemade flavor in 30 minutes -- or even 20, cookbook authors say.

``My mantra for 20 years of running my cooking school is 20 minutes from grocery bag to dinner table,'' says Judie Byrd, author of ``Super Suppers Cookbook, More Than 180 Easy Family Recipes to Enjoy Tonight or Freeze for Later'' (Meredith Books; $19.95) and founder of the Super Suppers, stores where you can assemble meals or pick up pre-made entrees.

``I feel like this book is a guilt-buster,'' adds Byrd, the mother of three grown children, ``because parents are drive-through weary and tired of sitting in line to get a white sack that smells kind of greasy.'' It's so much more relaxing to come home and make a simple recipe with a little help from the children.

Sandra Lee, host of the Food Network show ``Semi-Homemade With Sandra Lee,'' going into its fourth year, is also offering speedy creations in her new ``Semi-Homemade 20-Minute Meals'' (Meredith; $19.95), designed for ``busy overextended homemakers who don't have the time or energy to make from-scratch meals.'' Her philosophy is combining 70percent store-bought ready-made food items with 30percent fresh ingredients, but in this, her ninth book, she sometimes flips the equation and uses 70percent fresh ingredients and 30percent store-bought.

``You can make food in less time than it takes to get pizza delivered, and you're getting much more nutrition if you cook at home, and you know what you're putting in your and your family's bodies,'' Lee adds.

``Nothing tastes as good as a home-cooked meal, a bittersweet fact given that most of us have only a few minutes in the evening to pull together diner. Simply knowing how to choose the right ingredients is a big part of having memorable home-cooked meals on the table in record time,'' writes Shea Waggoner in ``Homemade in Half the Time'' (Rodale; $19.95), which contains 200 recipes. ``Walk into any supermarket and notice a store-wide trend: Ninety percent of the ingredients are designed to save time in the kitchen.''

Food Network star Rachael Ray's modus operandi continues to be 30-minute meals in her latest cookbook, ``Rachael Ray 2, 4, 6, 8 Great Meals for Couples or Crowds'' (Clarkson Potter; $19.95).

The array of good-quality prepared, flavor-packed gourmet, natural, organic, jarred, fresh, frozen or canned ingredients and foods that has emerged in the past decade provides more shortcuts and an opportunity for home cooks to rediscover the joy of cooking and get good food on the table easily, points out Andrew Schloss, author of ``Homemade in a Hurry, More Than 300 Shortcut Recipes for Delicious Home-Cooked Meals'' (Chronicle Books; $19.95), his ninth cookbook. ``I think one of the things that is remarkable about what is available now is you can make food that looks and tastes complex but is simple and quick.'' He touts restaurant-style food that you never would have attempted to make from scratch in the past.

``If you aren't making recipes easy for people to cook, no one is going to make them.''

Having an arsenal of exotic or complex spices and sauces will revolutionize the way you cook, he adds. The next time you grill a chicken breast, instead of seasoning with salt and pepper, reach for one of those pre-mixed items.

``It is easy to make really quick bad food, but if you want really good quick food, it's another matter,'' says Christopher Kimball, founder and editor of Cook's Illustrated and Cook's Country and ``The Best 30-Minute Recipe'' (America's Test Kitchen; $35). Certain things such as stir-fries, pan sautes and high-heat oven roasting are naturally quick, but how do you take dishes such as lasagna and make them quick? There are 300 streamlined dishes in the book ranging from Skillet Lasagna (one of Kimball's faves) to Tortilla Soup that can be turned out in 30 minutes including prep time.

Turning out good quick ``real'' food involves using a tremendous amount of heat, knowing how to season food properly and get flavor out of food that is not cooked a long time, Kimball says. For instance, to develop flavor quickly for a tomato soup, you don't have to roast the tomatoes a long time. Saute drained, canned tomatoes in a skillet with a little sugar and fat to develop the flavor quickly. For punched-up flavor, add fresh herbs near the end of the cooking time. Some items such as a marinade can do double duty if you make enough to use as a sauce, too.

``We're not against canned or frozen as long as it's not processed foods like Cool Whip. Frozen green peas and canned tomatoes are better than fresh most of the time,'' Kimball says.

Schloss views salsas not in a Mexican context but rather as vegetables in a jar -- and uses them in Chinese, Indian, Southeast Asian food or other dishes with the addition of lemongrass, broth, ginger, garlic, coconut milk, hoisin sauce or green onions.

To save time, steps and avoid dirtying dishes, Schloss sprays Baker's Joy on meats before browning. He also uses spice blends -- such as southwest, Mediterranean or curry.

Natalie Haughton, [phone]

[e-mail]

ORANGE BEEF AND BROCCOLI STIR-FRY

1 1/2 pounds beef skirt steak OR flank steak

1 cup orange marmalade

1/4 cup hoisin sauce

3 tablespoons teriyaki sauce

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon minced fresh garlic

12 ounces fresh broccoli florets

If desired, place meat in freezer until partially frozen for easier slicing. Trim fat from meat. Thinly slice meat across the grain into bite-size strips.

In a large bowl, toss together beef strips, marmalade, hoisin sauce, teriyaki sauce, soy sauce and garlic.

In a medium saucepan, cook broccoli in boiling water 5 to 6 minutes, until crispy tender; drain and cool.

Preheat a wok or large nonstick skillet over high heat. Add meat mixture to hot wok. Stir-fry 4 to 6 minutes, or to desired doneness. Add cooked broccoli, heat through. Serve with steamed rice, if desired.

Makes 8 servings

From ``Super Suppers Cookbook,'' by Judie Byrd.

SKILLET LASAGNA

1 pound meatloaf mix (OR use 1/2 pound EACH lean ground beef and pork)

2 garlic cloves, minced

1/4 to 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

Salt

6 ounces curly-edged regular (do not use no-boil) lasagna noodles (8 noodles), broken into 2-inch pieces

1 (26-ounce) jar tomato sauce, such as marinara (about 3 cups)

2 cups water

1/2 cup shredded mozzarella cheese

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Ground black pepper

3/4 cup whole-milk ricotta cheese

1/4 cup minced fresh basil

Cook meat in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat, breaking it into pieces with a wooden spoon until fat renders, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain meat and return it to skillet. Stir in garlic, red pepper flakes and 1/2 teaspoon salt and cook over medium-high heat until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

Sprinkle broken noodles into skillet, then pour in tomato sauce and water over top (you may need to add extra water if noodles are especially dry). Cover and cook, stirring often and adjusting heat as needed to maintain vigorous simmer, until noodles are tender, about 20 minutes.

Off heat, stir in half of mozzarella and half of Parmesan. Season with salt and pepper. Dot heaping tablespoons of ricotta over noodles, then sprinkle with remaining mozzarella and Parmesan. Cover and let stand off heat until cheeses melt, 3 to 5 minutes. Sprinkle with basil before serving.

Makes 4 servings

SKILLET LASAGNA WITH SAUSAGE AND RED BELL PEPPER: Substitute 1 pound hot OR sweet Italian sausage, casings removed, for meatloaf mix. Add 1 red bell pepper, cored and chopped fine, to skillet with sausage.

From ``The Best 30-Minute Recipe,'' by the Editors of Cook's Illustrated.

ASIAN BEEF AND VEGETABLE WRAPS

4 cups packaged shredded cabbage with carrot (coleslaw mix)

1 pound cooked roast beef, shredded

2 cups fresh bean sprouts

1/2 cup finely chopped green onions

1/4 cup plum sauce

1/4 cup hoisin sauce

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

12 (7-inch) egg roll wrappers

1/4 cup olive oil

Coat a baking sheet with sides with non-stick cooking spray. In a large bowl stir together coleslaw mix, shredded beef, bean sprouts, green onions, plum sauce, hoisin sauce, ginger and sesame oil. Place about 1/3 cup beef mixture on each egg roll wrapper; fold envelope-style. Place wraps on prepared pan, seam sides down. Use a brush to coat the top of each wrap with olive oil.

Bake, uncovered, in a preheated 400-degree oven 15 to 20 minutes or until golden brown.

Makes 6 servings

From ``Super Suppers Cookbook,'' by Judie Byrd.

FAST AND EASY MINESTRONE

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 medium onion, chopped

1 teaspoon bottled minced garlic

1/2 cup port wine

1 (32-ounce) container reduced-sodium chicken broth

1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes with basil, garlic and oregano 

7 ounces loose-pack frozen mixed vegetables (sugar snap peas, carrots, broccoli, cauliflower)

1/2 cup canned red kidney beans, rinsed and drained

1 teaspoon Italian seasoning

Shredded Parmesan cheese (optional)

In a large saucepan, heat olive oil over medium-high heat. Add onion to hot oil; cook and stir 1 minute. Add garlic and cook 30 seconds more. Add port wine and bring to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer 1 minute.

Add chicken broth, undrained tomatoes, frozen mixed vegetables, kidney beans and Italian seasoning. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a rapid simmer; cook 5 to 10 minutes. Serve hot with Parmesan cheese (optional)

Makes 4 servings

From ``Sandra Lee Semi-Homemade 20-Minute Meals.''

TEX-A-CAJUN JAMBALAYA 

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup (a 7-ounce container) prechopped tricolor bell pepper

1 cup prechopped onion

1 cup prechopped celery

1 1/2 tablespoons preminced oil-packed garlic

1 tablespoon chili powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 pound smoked, fully-cooked kielbasa sausage, halved lengthwise and cut into 1-inch chunks

2 (14-ounce) cans diced pepper-onion seasoned tomatoes

3/4 pound medium peeled, deveined shrimp

Heat oil in a large skillet set over medium heat. Add bell pepper, onion, celery, garlic, chili powder and salt. Stir to mix. Cook, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes, or until onion is golden. Add sausage. Stir to coat with seasonings. Add tomatoes (with juice). Reduce heat to medium-low. Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, 10 minutes or until flavors blend. Stir in shrimp. Cover and simmer 3 minutes, or until shrimp turn pink. Serve with cornbread or hot rice. Pass hot sauce at the table.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

From ``Homemade in Half the Time: Smart Ways to Cook Delicious Meals Every Time,'' edited by Shea Waggoner.

TERIYAKI CHICKEN NOODLES

6 ounces somen noodles

2 tablespoons canola oil

1 1/2 pounds chicken tenders, cut into bite-size pieces

1 (6-ounce) bag prewashed baby spinach OR other greens

1 cup loose-pack frozen carrot slices, thawed

1/2 cup teriyaki sauce

1/2 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth

1 teaspoon bottled crushed garlic

1 teaspoon bottled minced ginger

Sugar Snap Peas With Red Pepper

In a large pot of boiling water, cook noodles 3 minutes. Drain; rinse with cold water. Drain well; set aside.

Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat canola oil over medium-high heat. Add chicken to hot oil; cook and stir about 7 minutes or until cooked through.

Add spinach, thawed carrots, teriyaki sauce, chicken broth, garlic and ginger to skillet. Stir to combine; simmer over medium heat 5 minutes. Add cooked noodles and toss to combine. Serve with Sugar Snap Peas With Red Pepper.

Makes 4 servings

SUGAR SNAP PEAS WITH RED PEPPER: In a microwave-safe bowl, combine 1 (14-ounce) bag loose- pack frozen sugar snap peas, 1/4 cup thin strips roasted red bell pepper and 1 teaspoon dark sesame oil. Cover with plastic wrap; microwave on high (100-percent) power 6 to 7 minutes, stirring halfway through cooking time. Toss with 2 teaspoons sesame seeds. Serve hot. Makes 4 servings.

From ``Sandra Lee Semi-Homemade 20-Minute Meals.''

FAST FOOD TIPS

Quick tips to get dinner on the table in 30 minutes or less:

Keep a stockpile of pre-mixed sauces and spice combinations such as curry, pesto, peanut, tapenade, jerk or satay.

Use a microwave oven to start the cooking process, then finish on the stove-top or in the oven.

Buy pre-cut vegetables, especially the hard-to-dice varieties such as butternut squash.

Thicken sauces and soups with just a tablespoon or two of instant mashed potatoes, added right at the end.

CAPTION(S):

6 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) Express lane

Dinners that are fresh, fast and simple

(2 -- color) BELOW: FAST AND EASY MINESTRONE

``Sandra Lee Semi-Homemade 20-Minute Meals,'' Meredith Books

(3 -- color) ABOVE: ASIAN BEEF AND VEGETABLE WRAPS

From ``Super Suppers Cookbook,'' Meredith Books

(4 -- 5 -- color) ABOVE: SKILLET LASAGNA; BELOW: TEX-A-CAJUN JAMBALAYA

From ``The Best 30-Minute Recipe,'' America's Test Kitchen

Photo by Mitch Mandel, from ``Homemade in Half the Time,'' Rodale

(6 -- color) ORANGE BEEF AND BROCCOLI STIR-FRY

From ``Super Suppers Cookbook,'' Meredith Books

Box:

FAST FOOD TIPS (see text)