MAY THE ROAD RISE UP TO MEET YOU.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

CLASSIEST tavern in town, that's the new Jimmy's Tavern in West Los Angeles, hosted by L.A.'s most recognized Irish-American host, the gregarious Jimmy Murphy and his offspring Sean.

Murphy became the important pal of show-biz luminaries as the maitre d' at the Bistro in Beverly Hills at its peak (now the site of Mastro's Steak House). He parlayed those friendships into the once ultra-fashionable Jimmy's. Now he's jumped back into the restaurant limelight with a cozier, smaller place.

But there's no doubt about this new Jimmy's being upscale.

The Murphys took Piero Selvaggio's former Primi space and have given it a warm, distinctive, clubby look with a basic black and green theme, yet it's not in the least bit somber.

There's a skylight and hanging rugs in the main dining room and, curiously, an arrangement of light-colored pagodas dressing up one wall.

The bar and second dining room, where diners enter, has a fireplace at one end and a large rendering above the bar of three yesteryear tavern-type patrons at a table. The drawing is flanked by philosophical quotes by W.B. Yeats and Oscar Wilde.

In-between the two dining areas are a couple of thick cement columns that were probably more Roman-looking during Primi's residence.

But the authentic Irish stamp of approval begins at the door. To the left of the entrance of the tavern's handsome exterior stands a mighty chunk of shiny gray Blarney-style stone presented by the fathers of Cork and inscribed as such to Jimmy Murphy.

If you want to consume Irish fare, talented chef David Fouts makes the best and possibly the most expensive Irish lamb stew ($22) here that you've ever eaten, slow-cooked until melty tender with the finest Sonoma lamb plus new potatoes, carrots, baby turnips and pearl onions.

He doesn't do quite as well with his corned beef - slightly tough - and cabbage effort ($23), but succeeds admirably when he returns to the lamb trail with a dish of lamb three ways ($27).

On a square platter, at the top, juicy lamb chops off the rack lean against a tasty tomato tart, while at the bottom left, sliced roast leg of lamb, pink and tender, perches atop a small heap of crunchy asparagus tips. On the right, moist and chewable lamb shank nestles on small new potatoes.

This not only looks good, it's very satisfying.

But if you're a red-meat fancier, you absolutely must try chef Fouts' Kobe beef salad ($16) as a starter.

Big enough to share, the succulent seared steak made with the world's finest beef is cut in quarter-inch-wide strips, placed soldierlike in a row on green arugula leaves with sweet tomatoes, a neat potato cake and a zingy yuzu dressing.

It's simply terrific.

Of course, if you prefer more mainstream appetizers, there's a superb heirloom tomato dish ($14) with basil and buffalo mozzarella, and delicious, crispy, peekytoe crab cakes ($15) enhanced with a peppery remoulade dipping sauce.

Jimmy's kitchen does a good job with a cutup, whole roasted chicken entree ($22) and notches a passable rating with its pepper-crusted Irish salmon dish ($22).

Steaks appear to be handled well here. Besides the New York ($29.50) and filet mignon ($29) for dinner, there's a gratifying hanger steak ($19) on the lunch menu that goes well with its Irish green pesto sauce.

And for an Irish finish, there's a chocolate and vanilla bread pudding ($7.50) with an Irish brew-flavored (Guinness and Harp) caramel sauce.

And perhaps an Irish coffee, too.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

JIMMY'S TAVERN

Food: Four and one half stars - Wine: Two and one half stars - Service: Three stars.

Where: 10543 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A.

Hours: Open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. weekdays, for dinner from 5:30 to 11 p.m. nightly except Sunday.

Recommended items: Soups, Kobe beef salad, Peekytoe crab cake, heirloom tomato salad, lamb three ways, whole roasted chicken, Irish lamb stew, banana pecan spring rolls, black and tan bread pudding.

How much: Starters from $7.50 to $16, pastas and entrees from $14 to $29.50, desserts $7.50 each. Full bar. Major credit cards accepted.

Wine list: Four-page list offers limited selection of wines by the glass from $8 to $12, several high-priced Bordeaux bottles and a generally pricey selection ranging from $30 up. Corkage: $15.

Reservations: Advisable. Call [phone].

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Photo:

Sweet Summer Beets are one of the offerings at Jimmy's Tavern in West Los Angeles.

Gus Ruelas/Staff Photographer