MASTRO'S A MASTERFUL EXPERIENCE.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic The new Mastro's Steakhouse in Thousand Oaks Thousand Oaks, residential city (1990 pop. 104,352), Ventura co., S Calif., in a farm area; inc. 1964. Avocados, citrus, vegetables, strawberries, and nursery products are grown. is definitely classier than any other Valley-area restaurant. It even has restroom attendants. And, new to me, it calls customers back after their first visit, asking whether the experience was positive. Mastro's, based in Scottsdale, Ariz., already operates upscale steakhouses locally in Costa Mesa Costa Mesa (kŏs`tə mā`sə), city (1990 pop. 96,357), Orange co., S Calif., on the Pacific south of Santa Ana; inc. 1953. It is a transportation, residential, and light industrial center. and Beverly Hills Beverly Hills, city (1990 pop. 31,971), Los Angeles co., S Calif., completely surrounded by the city of Los Angeles; inc. 1914. The largely residential city is home to many motion-picture and television personalities. . And it comes as close as possible to achieving impeccable service. All in a decorative, comfortable atmosphere. The busy kitchen serves 11 different hand-cut, prime steak options -- more than its competitors -- and balances that with prime rib, a double pork chop Pork Chop An arrangement on the floor of the NYSE whereby clerks cover the booth of a floor broker and accept orders, phone calls, and associated tasks. Notes: The clerks in charge of maintaining the booths are directly compensated by the floor brokers who own them. , a veal chop, a 2-pound whole roasted chicken and such rarities as a lamb porterhouse and a veal porterhouse. Just be prepared to spend some fairly big bucks here. After two visits, we averaged $175 per twosome each time. Satisfying big appetites You won't leave hungry. And there may be too much. Most diners carry out boxed leftovers in Mastro's' smart shopping bags. Yes, this is a place for big eaters, but just in case you're dieting, there's a petite, half-pound filet ($29.95) available. However, all the other steaks and chops weigh in at 1 pound or more. Now just in case you're really famished fam·ish v. fam·ished, fam·ish·ing, fam·ish·es v.tr. 1. To cause to endure severe hunger. 2. To cause to starve to death. v.intr. 1. , there's a 3-pound, double-cut, porterhouse steak here for $75.95. But as classy as it is, don't look for that ultra-expensive Wagiyu/Kobe beef, American or Japanese. Neither is listed on the beginning menu. As for beginnings, there are plenty of starters (24, actually) to choose from -- some, like the refreshing iceberg wedge ($9.50), big enough to share, and a fine onion soup ($10.95). For those with smaller appetites, the kitchen will graciously make half orders of some of the dishes. For example, half a warm spinach salad costs $3 less than the full ($9.50) one. If you want half Quilcene and half Bluepoint blue·point also blue point n. A small oyster (Crassotrea virginica) found chiefly in coastal waters of the eastern United States and usually eaten raw. oysters (three of each), you'll pay a bit more ($17.70 instead of $15.95) for your oyster order. The Beverly Hills Mastro's might have been the first steakhouse locally to feature all the bone-in cuts, including the oxymoronic bone-in filets. (Doesn't filet mean without a bone?) But there's no doubt that the bone-in options possess added flavor. Here there are four; two bone-in filets ($39.95 and $44.95), a bone-in Kansas City Kansas City, two adjacent cities of the same name, one (1990 pop. 149,767), seat of Wyandotte co., NE Kansas (inc. 1859), the other (1990 pop. 435,146), Clay, Jackson, and Platte counties, NW Mo. (inc. 1850). strip ($49.95) and a bone-in ribeye ($38.95). Both the lamb porterhouse ($39.95) and the veal porterhouse ($35.95) are nicely executed, with bone in, of course. Lots of options on the side They, like all the steak and chop offerings, come forth alone on a plate large enough for vegetable accompaniments. These (22 of them, including 10 different potato listings, each priced at $7.50, $8.50 or $9.50 per order) provide obvious sharing potential. Cauliflower cauliflower (kô`lĭflou'ər, käl`ĭ–), variety of cabbage, with an edible head of condensed flowers and flower stems. Broccoli is the horticultural variety (botrytis); both were cultivated in Roman times. au gratin au gra·tin adj. Covered with bread crumbs and sometimes butter and grated cheese, and then browned in an oven: potatoes au gratin. ($9.50) was the best, followed by sauteed mushrooms ($7.50) and steamed asparagus ($7.50), the latter having woody ends on some of the spears. Mastro's cooks a fine rack of lamb Noun 1. rack of lamb - a roast of the rib section of lamb crown roast rack - rib section of a forequarter of veal or pork or especially lamb or mutton lamb roast, roast lamb - a cut of lamb suitable for roasting ($38.95) and a tender 12-ounce filet ($34.95). Untried are several fish and lobster items. As an ending, the house-baked warm buttercake ($11.50) is large enough for four to share and rich enough to ensure a happy finale. That's even though you know that the upcoming check total might raise your eyebrows. Yet you and I know you'll pay it without remorse Without Remorse is a novel by Tom Clancy set in 1971, in the middle of the Vietnam War. It makes passing references to Jack Ryan and his family, but is focused on John Clark. . Because you're just as classy as Mastro's. Right? Larry Lipson, (818) 713-3668 larry.lipson@dailynews.com MASTRO'S STEAKHOUSE Food: Three and one half stars - Service: Four stars - Wine: Three and one half stars Where: 2087 E. Thousand Oaks Blvd., Thousand Oaks. Phone: (805) 418-1811. Meals/hours: Open for dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. nightly, to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Food type: Prime steaks, chops and seafood. Cost: Starters from $5.50 to $28, entrees from $26 to $76, desserts $8 to $11.50. Credit cards: AE, MC, DC, V, Discover. Patio dining: No. Parking/valet: Valet parking at entrance, $4.50. Full bar: Yes. Wine/Corkage: Some 112 labels on single-page regular list. (Special list of older and rarer wines at three-digit prices is available.) Bottlings start at $24. Wines by the glass (8- or 9- ounce pours) range from $8 to $26. Corkage cork·age n. A charge exacted at a restaurant for every bottle of liquor served that was not bought on the premises. corkage Noun a charge made at a restaurant for serving wine bought elsewhere : $25. Music/entertainment: Live musical entertainment and dancing in lounge nightly. Takeout/delivery: Yes on takeout, no on delivery. Reservations: Needed, especially on weekend nights. CAPTION(S): photo Photo: Mastro's Steakhouse in Thousand Oaks offers upscale fare, outstanding service and a comfortable atmosphere. Tina Burch/Staff Photographer |
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