MAKE NO MYTHTAKE AT DAMON & PYTHIAS.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

NAMING FAST FOOD outlets after Greek mythological characters may seem far-fetched, but it evidently made a lot of sense to college buddies Jeff McNeal and Steven Brower when they opened Damon & Pythias a couple of years ago in Westwood.

Because the story of Damon and Pythias is about friendship and trust, it was picked by them for one of those new, quasi self-service cafes where you pay at the counter when you order and get a number on a piece of plastic that you stick on a stand on your table.

This allows a server to deliver your food and pick up the number.

At its second location, which opened Jan. 10 in Calabasas, Damon & Pythias replaces Purple Basil.

Actually, I have mixed feelings about this type of restaurant.

I really don't like making decisions on what to order from one of those lit-up menu displays placed just below ceiling height. One has to crane the neck and make decisions too quickly because there are often people waiting behind you.

Not only that, but once you decide on a particular item, there are usually more options tossed out. What sides do you want? Do you want to add this or that? Oh, did you know about the half-and-half special? Focaccia or sourdough bread? What about your drink?

Meanwhile, the customers behind you are getting more and more restless.

So there's a tendency to make snap decisions, especially at the first visit.

True, ensuing visits do tend to be easier because of the gradual familiarity.

Anyway, the trade-off is the quickness of the kitchen.

Evidently, as the cashier-clerk punches in your order, it transfers back to the kitchen, where the staff there starts putting your plates together in a hurry.

So if you're in a hurry, as are too many of us these days, the fast service will make you very happy.

Of course, you might get everything at once: Soups, salads, sandwiches, entrees - they're all the same to those guys back there. Get 'em ready and out to the table as quickly as possible.

The best thing about Damon & Pythias is that its food comes up fresh, tasty and very edible.

And the cost is moderate. Just about everything is under $10.

Here the emphasis seems to be on building your own sandwich, salad or entire meal.

But you have to do it at the counter.

With, possibly, a line of hungry folks behind you.

I tend to settle for the house specialties instead.

Like a pretty good though fairly mild Southwestern-style salad ($7.95) topped with slices of nicely turned out, marinated flank steak, or the always-popular chicken Caesar ($7.75).

Meat fanciers should jump for the triple-threat ``carnivore'' offering ($10.95) or a half-rack of meaty Mojito spareribs ($10.95) generally served with garlic fries. I opted for the onion rings instead.

Filling up the carnivore plate are thicker pieces of flank steak, moist marinated chicken breast and grilled sausage. Flavored, ``smashed spuds'' are recommended with this dish, but if you're worried about carbs, you should definitely go for the sauteed mushrooms.

Soups are not to be dismissed here.

All three - a black bean, a vegetable and a Creole onion - have been worthy versions.

And dessert cakes and tarts displayed on another counter provide reasonably satisfying endings, a chocolate windmill cake ($3.95) being an enjoyable choice one time.

And the best thing about picking dessert: It's easy. There's no pressure from diners standing in line behind you.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

DAMON & PYTHIAS

Food: Three stars

Where: 4719 Commons Way, the Commons at Calabasas. (Also in Westwood.)

Hours: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.

Recommended items: Black bean or Creole onion soups, Mojito ribs, Southwest steak salad, carnivore plate, chocolate windmill cake.

How much: Everything under $10 except carnivore plate ($11), full rack of ribs ($15) and daily seafood catch ($12). All major credit cards accepted.

Wine list: None at present. Beer and wine license pending.

Reservations: Not taken. First come, first served. Information: [phone].

CAPTION(S):

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Photo:

Protein's the thing in Damon & Pythias' tuna nicoise salad, which features both grilled fish and a hard-boiled egg. The restaurant recently opened in the Commons at Calabasas.

Charlotte Schmid-Maybach/Staff Photographer