MAHATMA FARE OUTSHINES GAFFES.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

In an impressive all-pink setting in an unlikely mini-mall on Topanga Canyon Boulevard in Chatsworth, Mahatma purveys familiar Indian cuisine as well as any of the several popular local curry houses.

Its sari-clad hostess-waitress and attentive waiters work hard to please, although the kitchen sometimes forgets to fulfill menu promises with precision.

For example, the mixed tandoori platter ($13.99) was ordered one day in what seemed a sensible way to taste a lot of things at one time.

It arrives dramatically, consisting of deliciously succulent tandoori chicken - as good as anyone's - also a boneless chunk or two of chicken tikka, some tandoor-roasted lamb pieces and seasoned, minced lamb kebabs, all on a sizzling platter with onions.

This, with unlimited basmati rice and one or two other dishes, should and does add up to a substantial enough meal.

Yet, according to the menu, mixed vegetables and dal makhani, the spiced lentil dish, are also supposed to be part of this, billed on the menu as one of the restaurant's ``special bargain dinner platters.'' But somehow they were forgotten.

No problem. When the omission is pointed out, the two dishes are prepared and delivered, the vegetables bathed in a lilting yellow-tinged creamy curry and the lentils, darker, spicier, sharper.

And it is discovered later that a samosa, the soothing raita yogurt sauce, green salad and a dessert also are offered on some menus. However, they are not presented that day.

Omissions or not, there's no lack of things to eat here, including Mahatma's excellent naan bread served hot from the tandoor oven.

And one of the better efforts is a dish of savory boneless lamb in a rich stewlike recipe called kadai gosht ($7.99), delivered bubbling hot in an iron skillet.

The traditional Indian vegetable fritters called pakoras, which are like heavier versions of tempura, also taste wonderful one evening. But they appear rather stiff, crunchy hard and served less than tepid one day at lunchtime, this a time when most of the restaurant's patrons seem to be plowing into the all-you-can-eat lunch buffet ($5.95).

The chef here, perhaps unfamiliar with some of the menu promises, cooks well; there's no doubt about it. His crunchy onion bhajis ($2.50) and puffy samosas ($2.50) testify in his favor.

So do his mahi mahi masala fish curry dish ($6.99), full of wonderfully flaky pieces and nippy seasoning; his lamb specialty called gosht mughalai ($8.99) and a very well-executed chicken vindaloo ($6.99).

The lamb dish, swimming in a delightful curry enhanced with raisins and egg, would have been even better if all the cubes of meat were nicely tender. Unfortunately, some weren't.

There is one dish here that shouldn't be missed, Mahatma's version of aloo chat ($2.50), which comes up as a sort of refreshing cold salad dish. It contains the potatoes it's supposed to have, enough cumin, cilantro and lemon flavors to please to no end, along with tomato, cucumber and Indian naan croutons.

And, though the kitchen rarely spices up its curries to a potentially uncomfortable scorch height - even when you ask for them hot - dishes such as aloo chat and the yogurt mixture called raita offer mild, cool and somewhat soothing alternatives to balance any suggestion of peppery pain.

Speaking of pain, possibly the name Mahatma brings forth thoughts and visions of India's heroic Ghandi, a man known more for his refusal to eat than for much of an appetite.

Here at his namesake restaurant, there's no cause for alarm. You'll not leave hungry.

THE FACTS

The restaurant: Mahatma Cuisine of India.

Where: 10110 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Chatsworth.

When: Open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and dinner from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. daily except Sunday.

Recommended items: Soups, pakoras, samosas, onion bhaji, aloo chat, dal makhani, tandoor-baked chicken or lamb, boti kebab, chicken tikka, chicken vindaloo, lamb gosht mughala.

Children's menu: Two pieces of tandoori chicken on a bed of rice and a dessert of gulab jaman (Indian sweet milk cheese ball in syrup) is $5.99.

How much: Appetizers from $2.50 to $4, main dishes from $6 to $14, desserts $2.50 and $2.95. Beer and wine. AE, MC, V, Discover.

Wine list: Better list (21 labels) than one would expect, with 17 bottles in the $12-to-$20 range and some quality names such as De Loach, Chimney Rock, Clos du Val, Estancia and Laboure Roi available.

Reservations: Helpful. Call [phone].

Our rating: Three Stars for food; Two Stars for service; Three Stars for wine.

CAPTION(S):

Photo

Photo: Mahatma Cuisine of India owner Mahesh Sood, left, hostess Sundana Younus, chef Rawail Singh and owner-chef Bhupinder Singh display some of the offerings at the Chatsworth restaurant.

Gene Blevins/Special to the Daily News