MA MAISON: THE SALT OF LOS FELIZ.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

The new Ma Maison (My House) on Los Feliz Boulevard in the Atwater district resembles the original Melrose Avenue Ma Maison in name only.

Because of its location, this is not, and probably will not, be a place where the creme de la creme of show biz gathers.

Ironically, the new one that calls itself Ma Maison Restaurant, with its dark wood, green accents and somewhat formal appearance, seems more French than the original.

Those who were familiar with Patrick Terrail's Ma Maison will recall its AstroTurf carpeting, patio furniture and Wolfgang Puck's cooking.

The new version, owned by chef Jacques Emery, has a serious, more traditional appearance even though it falls into a medium price range, yet would probably like to be perceived as a bistro or brasserie.

Its food doesn't stray far from the expected, delivering a sort of sturdy fare on sturdy ware.

There's the French onion soup in a crock ($6), a deep-flavored rendition. There's the escargots ($6.50), nicely chewable with plenty of garlic butter sauce. And there's the charcuterie plate for two ($12.50), a respectable offering of cold meats that include country pate, sliced ham, salami, prosciutto, cornichons and small, pickled white onions.

But it is immediately evident, especially in the onion soup, and to some degree in the escargots dish, that restraint in salting is needed. In fact, the onion soup during a second visit disclosed as much sodium as the first try.

Mussels ($8.50) were fine in all other aspects one evening, but yep, the creamy sauce was salty.

Steamed Chilean seabass ($18.50) of excellent texture and flavor and a pleasant tomato sauce came up topped by a tapenade (olive paste) that was overwhelmingly salty. Luckily, one could scrape it off.

And a special du jour salmon en feuillete (in pastry) dish ($17.50) one evening also evidenced a salty hand.

However, fruit, fortified wine or pepper can make just about any palate forget about salt.

Like pink ovals of delicious duck breast ($18.50) in a fig and raisin reduction sauce that had resounding fruity character and richness one time. Very good and very French. And not far behind, tournedos of center-cut tenderloin of beef ($19) topped with sensuous goose liver pate, arriving in a lush port wine-infused brown sauce.

Unfortunately, that same evening the accompanying potatoes au gratin on both plates were rather salty.

Yet on another occasion, the same potato recipe coupled with a tender, juicy filet mignon steak ($18) in a zingy Madagascar peppercorn sauce revealed only the faintest taste of salt.

And there was absolutely no sign of any oversalting in a fricasseed chicken in puff pastry entree ($15.50) where diced chicken pieces in a rather bland sauce reminded somewhat of chicken pot pie without the carrots.

And to the kitchen's credit, a hot appetizer dish of sauteed mushrooms ($7.50) displayed lovely, earthy, natural flavors one night. And absolutely no saltiness.

As for desserts, a sample tray brought to the table of perfectly sculpted sweet things, mostly baked goods, certainly helps remove any salty memories.

Chosen from it, a napoleon, a wedge of opera cake, an individual apple tart and a dramatic white chocolate box ($6 each) have provided sufficiently enjoyable endings.

And now, come to think of it, there is a basis for comparison with the original Ma Maison. The legendary Melrose eatery did have its own salty character - its proprietor, Patrick Terrail.

MA MAISON

Where: 3179 Los Feliz Blvd., Los Angeles.

When: Open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. daily except Monday, for dinner from 5:15 to 10:30 p.m. nightly except Monday.

Behind the scenes: Jacques Emery is chef-owner.

Recommended items: Sauteed mushrooms, escargots, charcuterie plate for two, Chilean seabass without tapenade, duck breast with fig and raisin sauce, tournedos Rossini, filet mignon, creme brulee, pastries.

How much: Starters from $5 to $18, entrees from $15 to $22.50, desserts $6 each. Beer and wine. All major credit cards except Discover.

Wine list: Two-page list of 44 labels, nearly all French, range from $20 to $115 with several ``house wines'' at $25 per bottle. Only 11 wines list vintage dates. Fourteen wines by the glass are priced from $4 to $7. Corkage: $5.

Reservations: Suggested. Call [phone].

Our rating: Three stars for food; three stars for service; two stars for wine.

CAPTION(S):

photo

Photo:

Ma Maison's owner and head chef Jacques Emery, left, and head waiter Jean-Pierre Gauthier offer dishes of lobster tail and chicken fricassee, respectively.

John Lazar/Staff Photographer