London's calling (again): England's capital London. Is the place where all these electic cultural influence converage to create a diner's parasdise.

Like many countries, England owes a debt of gratitude to the various cultures that over the centuries have contributed to its cuisine. It is, in fact, England's colonial past that provides a clue to its reputation as the ethnic eating capital of the world. In particular, England's capital, London, is the place where all these eclectic cultural influences converge to create a diner's paradise. Well-known for its wide variety of Far Eastern cuisine, the city is emerging as a strong player in the field of world class food -- adopting and embracing a multitude of cuisines that range From classical French to those of the Pacific Rim and North Africa.

Despite what many Americans may believe, the food scene in and around London is burgeoning. With a diverse cityscape filled with brasseries and a few Michelin-starred restaurant to choose from, diners in London are exposed to a number of dining out options. Because the younger generation presently makes up the bulk of restaurant-goers, several pub-style establishments, more commonly known as gastro-pubs, are becoming increasingly popular, as they offer redefined pub fare at decent prices. Also, retro-cooking from the 1960's and 1970's, fruit and vegetable juice bars, and soup bars now offer diners a variety of foods from which to choose, as well as a wide range of meal prices.

THE NEW MASTERS

With the increasing popularity of dining out, London-based chefs such as Chris Staines of Foliage are taking due notice: "I think Britain, as small as it is, has started to embrace the notion of eating out more regularly and [people] are more readily spending the money to do so. Eating out was once considered a pastime of the rich and famous. This newer trend allows a lot of different food scenes to be around us all at the same time. Of course, you have the older, steadfast classical French cuisine, but there's also a rise in fusion cooking and a lot of great Indian and Asian-influenced food being presented. Many talented chefs are doing amazing things with food that no one would have even considered before. They're putting together flavor combinations that not too long ago would have been deemed too wacky or out there. It's nice to see diners accepting a number of different cuisines and styles of cooking instead of simply relying on foods of the past."

What do these culinary innovations mean to British chefs? For Heston Blumenthal of The Fat Duck, they simply provide diners the opportunity to sample some great food that they might not have been able to experience five to ten years ago. The public's willingness to dine out more often and to try new dishes also affords chefs and restaurants the opportunity to make a go of it in an otherwise costly and fickle industry: "England is known for being such an expensive country, with London in particular. To open a gastronomic restaurant in London doesn't make financial sense unless perhaps it's a brasserie attached to a hotel. This just means that the pressure of operating a successful higher-end restaurant is much greater along with the possibility of turnover. Because of the costs involved, I think there are some very talented chefs that have opened cheaper or mid-range priced restaurants because they can get backers for these types of establishments The upside of this situation is, because they are good chefs, t he food is good, too."

The excitement sparked by the restaurant explosion in London is almost palpable, with new places opening on a daily basis. Newspapers now overflow with pages and pages of food news and recipes. In addition, like many of their American counterparts across the Pond, chefs such as Jamie Oliver and Gary Rhodes, as well as self-proclaimed domestic goddess Nigella Lawson, have attained statuses akin to those of rock stars. Bui according to Chef Blumenthal, the interest in dining out and the London food scene in general still has a ways to go: "The food scene in America is much more vibrant than here. If you look a all the television programs and media food and chefs at involving compared to what well, ther's we have in England -- here's just so much more going on in the States. We don t have any food magazines like Art Culinaire here because we think no one is going to buy it -- we're just not 'foodie' enough."

VEGG-ING OUT

Although diners will always seek out the traditional and rustic fare of England, the trend of modern British cuisine leans increasingly towards dishes that not only embrace many different nationalities, but also cater to a more health-conscious society -- great news for the diehard vegetrian. Offering menus for those who prefer foods prepared in a lighter style or for those who appreciate interesting twists on traditional fare, new or modern English eating establishments seem to fit the diner's bill.

TO MARKET. TO MARKET...

Along with the heightened interest in organic produce and artisanal producers comes the resurgence of farmer's markets. For a nation that is passionate about gardening, most chefs and food enthusiasts are in tune with products grown or produced by farmers. However, even though the availability of good artisanal products and produce is on the upswing, most chefs would agree that when it comes to quality fruit and vegetables, London-based farmers' markets have only so much to offer. Chefs are actively encouraging farmers and market gardeners to grow more unusual herbs and vegetables. Supermarkets now offer a greater variety of organic fresh vegetables, and establishments, such as the ever-famous Harrods Food Hall, tempt their clientele not only with a wide choice of quality fruit and vegetables, but also with a vast array of cheeses, meats, fish, wine, dairy items and an infinite variety of bakery goods

Every locale has its share of good and bad food, but for years Britain has had the dubious reputation of serving predominantly poor fare. However, thanks to a new breed of young chefs willing to take a few calculated risks, many English menus now offer patrons the chance to experience fresher, cleaner tastes. Creative and passionate, British chefs are evolving with vengeance, and, luckily for diners, their ideas are taking London by storm.

Heston Rlumenthal

Born and raised in London, Heston Blumenthal was introduced to haute cuisine at the impressionable age of fifteen. Raised in a family that rarely ate out, Blumenthal considers his first Michelin starred restaurant experience as life changing: "My parents (who won't thank me for the next part of this statement) weren't gastronomics and never really went out to eat -- they weren't particularly interested in food or wine. One year on holiday, we went to France. While there, my father read about a restaurant that was a three-star Michelin at the time. We'd never been to a one star, let alone a three-star. My parents decided to take my sister and 1 along with them to dine at this particular restaurant. I can still remember sitting outside in the restaurant courtyard and you could hear the crickets and the smell of what I now realize were wild herbs and lavender. I remember the noise of the working staff, walking on the gravel and cement, and the sommelier with his big handle-bar moustache and leather apron offerin g us a wine list that was the size of a novel, huge picture frame-style menus, people pouring sauces, the souffles, carving tableside -- I was completely taken with it. If ever there was a moment that I thought, 'This is what I want to do,' it was then."

"About a year later, I started buying books and cooking from them. I hadn't a clue as to what I was doing at the time. I then wrote to the top restaurants in and around London and got one letter back from Raymond Blanc. He offered me the chance to spend a few days in his kitchen. I went and got a bit of a culture shock. My job mostly consisted of topping and tailing green beans. He then offered me an apprenticeship as a commis and I decided to turn it down. I was more interested in going out and trying to make myself a fortune and open a restaurant on my own. If I only knew... I then went about teaching myself the basics of classical French cooking, from butchery to souffle making and from soup making to desserts. I also would save up money then blow it on trips to France in the mid-eighties and basically just visited restaurants and wineries the whole time. I'd spend about [pounds sterling]150 a meal for two people, which was pretty unheard of at that time."

Although his foray into his own professional kitchen came a bit later in life, Blumenthal's passion for cooking followed him through the years: "For the next eight years or more, I tried my hand at a couple of different jobs that didn't involve food, all the while still researching cooking and eating and there was a bit of wine consumption - for research purposes only, of course! It became obvious early on that I wasn't really going to be able to earn myself a fortune to open a restaurant. My wife and I started looking at properties and we ended up buying 'a pub with a very small kitchen in Bray in 1995, which turned out to be a blessing in disguise."

At The Fat Duck, Chef Blumenthal initially concentrated on preparing traditional French cuisine, but his innate sense of curiosity paired with futuristic visions eventually lead him to the food he is known for today: "I was sort of cooking bourgeoise French food such as rillette of pork, braised lamb shanks, lemon tarts -- that sort of fare. My interest in food science was somewhat serendipitous. Because the kitchen was a bit old and gas pressure was minimal -- far weaker than what you'd find in a commercial kitchen -- the stoves weren't very powerful. We were trying to cook large quantities of green beans, and it was a problem trying to keep enough water boiling so that when you added the beans, the temperature of the water didn't take forever coming back up to a boil thus discoloring the beans. We had to boil them in smaller quantities in smaller pots of water and could only cook about eight beans at a time. A box of beans would take about four hours to do -- not very practical at all. This experience force d me to question the business of boiling water and the addition of salt to the water to keep green veg green -- every book that I read said it was added to "fix" the color and I was wondering if there was any validity to these statements. In 1985, I had bought Harold McGee's book On Food and Cooking and had to read it about a half a dozen times before I began to get the grasp of it. I started to think about some of the theories that McGee had expressed in the book and thought I'd apply them to my cooking. So, I did some tests cooking green beans and broccoli in both salted and unsalted water and came to the same conclusion as Harold McGee. I found that it would be more beneficial to put these vegetables into large amounts of rapidly boiling water and cook them uncovered for the first few minutes, then making sure not to cook them any longer than five to seven minutes. Salt could simply be added to the vegetables afterward. And so, my fascination with the science and folklore of the kitchen was truly launched. It also made me determined to expand my kitchen a bit for experimentation."

The rest of the culinary world is starting to recognize and appreciate Chef Blumenthal's interest in debunking cooking myths that have been around for centuries. It has also taken keen interest in another chapter of his life that involves the study of the brain to palate connection: "I've built up a network of scientists, getting them to come to the restaurant. This all leads up to the current items that we're working on, which I think is our future, the psychology of eating -- why one person might find one dish fantastic and another might find the same dish detestable. This is an area that we're still really unsure of. There's a lot of research going into it at the moment, but it's such a brand new study of how each one of the senses has an influence on what we perceive when it comes to eating. There's a chap over at Oxford who has isolated brain cells that have responded to individual flavors."

What can we make of all this talk of brain cells, flavors, research, and devotion to one's life's work? Sounds like the perfect combination for a chef with a penchant for adventure and a commitment to the study of the science of food.

Originally from Brighton, Matthew Harris began his career like many young chefs do; "I come from a restaurant background. My father had a neighborhood-style establishment many years ago, so food was important throughout my childhood. It helped having a mother who is a good cook, too. It's always been in my blood." Time well spent at Ecole l'Notre in Paris and later at Hilaire Restaurant in London with Simon Hopkinson gave Harris the training and experience to take over the head chef position at Bibendum in 1995.

Located in what was once the Michelin Tire Company's first British headquarters in 1911, Bibendum is a retrospective example of Art Nouveau at its best. With Chef Harris at its helm, the restaurant's food is somewhat reflective of French culinary tradition but also incorporates sound British cuisine with a flair for cross-cultural influences: "I think my food roots are based in classical French and British cuisine. But everything is done with a contemporary edge. Italian, Spanish, as well as many other cuisines are reflected in my menus -- I love cooking dishes from other countries -- but I try to stay true to the origin of the actual dish itself. I'm not a great one for fusion cooking and would rather leave that to other chefs who have a better sense of it."

With the fairly recent onslaught of restaurants opening around London and the continuing evolution of Modern British cuisine comes a few pitfalls that go hand in hand with indulging the masses. According to Harris, "Many of the big restaurants have opened, catering to large numbers. I think some of these are finding themselves harder to fill now. There seems to be more of a return to small neighborhood restaurants -- which I'm pleased about. I think it's great to go to a restaurant and recognize people and be recognized. The interest in cookery books and eating out has grown, too. People seem to be more experimental with what foods they'll try; they're much more receptive."

Raised with an appreciation and respect for the restaurant industry, Chef Harris definitively has his finger on the pulse of tried and true hospitality: "I love the creativity of this industry and draw great pleasure from it. It's the type of industry where it helps if you're generous and I think this is what it's all about. Unfortunately, I think there are a lot of restaurants that miss this point. I like to think that here at Bibendum, we are generous and fulfill all the things people love about eating out."

"I was born on the second floor of my grandfather's restaurant. All of my relatives helped out there, so it was definitely a family affair. Once, while working in the dining room, I dropped about twenty glasses. My aunt took one look at what I had done and sent me into the kitchen and that was it -- my fate was sealed -- and I was all of six years old," recalls Georgio Locatelli.

Though a native of Italy, Locatelli spent his formative cooking years in Switzerland, England, and Paris, respectively. Returning to London and opening Locando Locatelli in February of 2002 has afforded Locatelli the opportunity to do what he does best -- cook great Italian food in a city that now appreciates world class cuisine: "We've witnessed a complete renaissance in Italian cooking since 1990, due to the fact that the European system is working very well -- foods travel in a very good way. I buy on a daily basis from a market in Bologna and have mozzarella flown in three times a week. We get a great variety of cheeses now that we couldn't even have imagined before. When I worked at The Savoy, I'd have to go to twelve different shops just to get mozzarella and this was only in 1985."

When asked whether the role of a chef can be equated to that of an artist, Chef Locatelli is quick to respond. Based on his experience and philosophy, he readily dispels any preconceived notions about his chosen occupation: "Cooking is all I know how to do. I'm not that clever, you know. I'm not an artist -- I'm just a cook. An artist usually does what he wants when he wants at any time of the day -- when inspiration strikes. And, when he is successful, he can sell his art at whatever price he wants. We are in a completely different boat. We do what the customer wants, when they want and have to watch what we charge -- otherwise they might not pay the check. So, ultimately, I'm not too keen on chefs being comparable to artists. I don't try to show my technical capabilities in every dish that I do. I'd rather keep things simple and express myself through my food ."

Not cooking "my own food" (as he puts it) until he was thirty years old hasn't adversely affected the success of Georgio Locatelli. In fact, his food exemplifies his country's new cuisine, featuring fresh tastes along with ingredients and recipes that employ simple techniques. Locando Locatelli has found its niche with London diners, easily feeding 200 people on a daily basis. To say that the restaurant is busy is an understatement: "Busy? Just try to get a seat," Locatelli says with a smile. "If you're able to get one, would you please book one for me, too?"

Christopher Staines Follage - The Mandarin Oriental Hotel London, United Kingdom

"My interest in cooking was piqued when I started washing pots in a local hotel where I grew up. I saw all of these crazy people who created wonderful things and put them on plates. I thought they were all mad and also thought this was something I'd like to do."

While attending college, Christopher Staines took a three-month stage in a restaurant in Wales: "I decided to stay at the restaurant and not return to college because of all that I was learning while having such a good time doing it, "Staines recalls." I then followed the chef from Wales to a restaurant in Bath and stayed there for a couple of years -- got to do the pastries, the meat, and the fish. It was at this point that I decided to come and find my fortune in London. So, I thought, if I'm going to London, I might as well go whole hog. and went straight to a three star Michelin restaurant. I was there for eighteen months, then went to work for Marco Pierre White. I spent two and a half years at Marco's and got promoted to Chef de Cuisine, working with Robert Reid, then decided to venture out on my own at Foliage."

Following on the heels of renowned Chef Hywel Jones at Foliage was not a task for the faint-hearted. It would, however; end up to be a welcome and rewarding challenge for Staines, whose propensity for working in Michelin-starred restaurants proved fortuitous: "Initially, the thought of taking on Foliage was a bit intimidating. I knew that I would have some pretty big shoes to fill. The restaurant had just received its first star so it was imperative that I enter and hit the ground running. I had the good fortune of working with Hywel for about 10 weeks before he left, which helped make for a seamless transition."

Talking with Staines, it's easy to feel his enthusiasm for what he does. He's also acutely in tune with ingredients that nature has willingly provided: "Since my very first days in the kitchen, there was always a joy in handling raw ingredients and turning them into something that people looked at and said, 'Wow,' then tasted, and said, 'Wow - how'd he do that?' It was kind of like having the secret knowledge of being able to do this -- that's a buzz in and of itself. Being able to put a tomato on a plate and make it taste more like a tomato than when you started -- that fascinates me. It's quite an incredible process."

As far as the future is concerned, Chef Staines is keeping an open mind about where he may actually end up. New York City, with its thriving and unique food culture, is definitely on his personal radar screen: "My goals change quite frequently. But I like to travel, and New York sounds like a fantastic place to be -- and it's just exploding. And from the books that I've read and people I've spoken to, the food scene there is absolutely amazing. I'd never rule anything out. I would have said two years ago that France would have been my sort of resting-place, but possibly I'd like to come see New York, eventually."

Pigeon with Duck Confit and Pistachio Foam

(Serves 2)

h. Rlumenthal

ingredients

For the pigeon:
2 1-pound pigeons
2 cups plain yogurt
1 quart pigeon stock

For the pigeon confit:
2 ounces grey sea salt
1 ounce coriander seeds
1/2 ounce black peppercorns
1/2 ounce pink peppercorns
1/2 ounce allspice
1 tablespoon juniper berries
2 sprigs thyme, stemmed and chopped
1 bay leaf, crushed
1 teaspoon orange zest
1 teaspoon lime zest
4 pigeon legs
Reserved pigeon gizzards, halved and rinsed
Reserved pigeon heart, halved and rinsed
Goose fat as needed

For the pistachios:
1 ounce pistachios, halved
1/2 ounce cocoa nibs
1/2 teaspoon 5-spice powder
1/2 ounce unrefined superfine sugar
1 teaspoon honey

For the feuille de brik:
1/2 cup dried sour cherries
2 tablespoons Kirschwasser
Reserved pigeon confit mixture, chopped
4 ounces duck confit, chopped
1/4 cup brown chicken stock
2 sheets feuille de brik
1/4 cup melted butter
Goose fat as needed
Ground cinnamon to taste

For the pigeon cream:
2 1/2 ounces unsalted butter
3 shallots, peeled and finely sliced
3 ounces 10-year-old Madeira
16 ounces heavy cream
2 small onions, peeled and finely sliced
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon pistachio paste
1 ounce milk
Salt and pepper to taste

For the vegetables:
4 white turnips, green tops attached and peeled
3 spring onions
3 1/2 ounces unsalted butter, melted
2 tablespoons water
Salt and pepper to taste

For the dish:
Ground black pepper

directions

For the pigeon: Remove the neck and wing tips, leaving one section joined at the breast. Remove the legs, leaving the breast covered with skin. Remove the wishbone and backbone and discard. Remove the heart and gizzards and reserve for the pigeon confit. Place the pigeon breasts, heart, gizzards, and legs in the yogurt and refrigerate overnight. Rinse under running water and place on a cutting board. Cut the breast in two and remove the skin. Reserve the legs for the pigeon confit.

For the pigeon confit: In a bowl, combine all of the ingredients except the goose fat. Toss to coat and refrigerate for one hour. Rinse the pigeon legs, gizzards, and hearts under cold running water and discard the salt mixture. Place in a saucepan and cover with goose fat. Bring to 150 degrees and simmer until very soft, about 40 minutes. Remove the legs, gizzards, and hearts from the goose fat and discard the fat. Separate the pigeon meat from the leg bones and finely chop along with the gizzards and hearts.

For the pistachios: Place the pistachios in a saute pan and lightly toast over medium heat. Add the cocoa nibs and 5-spice powder while stirring constantly to coat. Add the sugar and stir until lumps are formed. Add the honey and simmer until a caramel forms, stirring constantly. Pour onto a parchment-lined sheet pan to cool.

For the feuille de brik: In a saute pan, warm the cherries. Add the Kirschwasser and flame. Saute for two minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the cherries and set aside. Reduce the liquid to the consistency of syrup and transfer to a howl, chop the cherries and add to the reduced liquid along with the pigeon confit and duck confit. Add the chicken stock in small amounts and mix until just combined. Place the feuille de brik sheets on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Divide the mixture evenly and place in the center of each sheet and brush the edges with the butter. Fold the feuille de brik to form a triangle shape and seal the edges.

For the pigeon cream: In a saute pan, melt half of the butter. Add the shallots and saute until soft. Deglaze with the Madeira and simmer until it reaches the consistency of syrup, about seven minutes. Add the cream and bring to a boil. Add the onions; reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat; add the mustard and transfer to a blender. Blend until well-combined. Strain through a fine mesh sieve into a saucepan. Bring to a simmer and add the pistachio paste, milk, and remaining butter. Whisk to combine and season. Using an immersion hand blender, foam the sauce. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the vegetables: Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Place the turnips in a sous vide bag; extract the air, seal, and microwave for about 40 seconds. Place the onions in a sous vide bag; extract the air, seal, and microwave until soft, about 5 minutes. Place the sous vide bag in an ice bath. Once cooled, remove the onions and slice each in half. In a bowl, combine the butter and water and whisk to combine. Place a saute pan over high heat. Place the onions cut-side down in the pan and sear quickly. Remove from the heat; add the butter mixture and place in the oven for two minutes. Set aside, keeping warm.

To finish the feuille de brik: Heat the goose fat in the fryer. Place the parcels in the goose fat and fry until golden brown. Remove from the heat and place on a paper towel-lined sheet pan to drain. Sprinkle with the cinnamon and keep warm.

To finish the pigeon: In a saucepan, add the pigeon stock and bring to a boil. Add the pigeon breasts and simmer for 30 minutes or until desired doneness.

To serve: Place two pigeon breasts to one side of a plate and sprinkle with ground black pepper. Set a feuille de brik parcel next to the pigeon breasts. Arrange the turnips and onions around the plate. Spoon the foamed pigeon cream over the pigeon breasts and around the plate and sprinkle with the pistachios.

Colljoure Les Junquets Domaine du Mas Blanc Roussillon, France 1998

Cauliflower Ristowith Cocoa Jelly

(Serves 4)

h. Rlumenthal

ingredients

For the dried cauliflower:
1/2 head cauliflower florets, thinly sliced

For the cocoa jelly:
4 1/2 ounces water
 1/3 ounce agar agar
 1/4 ounce cocoa powder
 1/2 teaspoon glucose

For the cauliflower stock:
2 tablespoons olive oil
21 ounces cauliflower, finely chopped
2 medium onions, peeled and finely minced
1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed
1 quart water
3 ounces cauliflower leaves
1/2 head cauliflower florets

For the cauliflower disks:
2 cauliflower stems
1/4 cup olive oil

For the cauliflower cream:
1/3 cup heavy cream
1/3 cup skim milk
1/3 cup chicken stock
1/8 teaspoon curry powder
15 ounces cauliflower florets, blanched and shocked

For the risotto:
2 tablespoons olive oil
32 ounces arborio rice
1 shallot, peeled and minced
1 small clove garlic, peeled and minced
1 1/2 ounces vermouth
1 1/2 ounces white wine
3 1/2 cups water
Reserved cauliflower stock, warmed
3/4 cup reserved cauliflower cream
1 1/2 tablespoons mascarpone cheese
1/4 ounce unsalted butter
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1/3 cup chopped chives
Salt and pepper to taste

For the cauliflower foam:
1 head cauliflower florets
3 ounces unsalted butter
12 ounces milk
Salt and curry powder to taste

For the garnish:
Cocoa powder

directions

For the dried cauliflower: Preheat the oven to 140 degrees. Place the cauliflower slices on a parchment-lined. sheet .pan and bake until crispy.

For the cocoa jelly: In a saucepan, bring the water to a boil. Remove from the heat and add the agar agar and mix to dissolve. Add the cocoa powder and glucose. Using a hand-held immersion blender, mix until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve into a 3 1/2 x 2 1/2-inch pan. Place in the refrigerator overnight to set. Invert the pan onto a cutting board and cut into twenty 1/2-inch squares.

For the cauliflower stock: In a saucepan, heat the oil. Acid the cauliflower, onions, and garlic and saute until the onions are transparent. Acid the water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for twenty minutes. Remove from the heat and add the cauliflower leaves and the raw cauliflower florets. Infuse for one hour. Discard the cauliflower and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the cauliflower disks: Trim the cauliflower stalks so they are perfectly round and slice on a mandoline to yield 28 thin rounds. Place two large pieces of plastic wrap on a flat work surface and brush each with the olive oil. On one sheet of plastic wrap, arrange seven of the disks, overlapping each other to form a 6-inch circle. Repeat with the remaining disks to form three more circles. Place the other sheet of plastic wrap, oiled side down, on the cauliflower and place in the freezer.

For the cauliflower cream: In a saucepan, combine the heavy cream, skim milk, chicken stock, and curry. Bring to a boil and add the cauliflower. Reduce the heat :and simmer for forty minutes. Remove from the heat. Transfer to a blender and mix until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside, keeping warm.

For the risotto: Heat the oil in a saucepan. Add the rice and saute until warmed. Add the shallot and garlic and saute until translucent. Add the vermouth and wine and simmer until almost dry. Add the water and simmer until almost dry. Add five tablespoons of the cauliflower stock, stirring constantly until absorbed. Repeat this process three more times and then add the cauliflower cream and the mascarpone; simmer until the mixture is creamy. Remove from the heat and add the butter. Set aside for two minutes. Add the Parmesan and the chives; season and keep warm.

For the cauliflower foam: Melt two and one-half ounces of the butter in a saucepan until foaming. Add the cauliflower florets and saute until lightly caramelized. Add the milk and bring to a boil for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer to a blender. Puree until smooth and then season. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside, keeping warm.

To finish the cauliflower foam: In a saucepan, combine the cauliflower foam, remaining butter, and milk. Warm gently over low heat. Remove from the heat and transfer to a whipped-cream siphon.

To serve: Remove the cauliflower disks from the freezer. Place a portion of cauliflower risotto in the center of the dish in a dome shape. Remove the top layer of plastic wrap on a cauliflower circle and invert onto the risotto. Dispense the cauliflower foam around the risotto and place five cocoa jelly squares on top of the cauliflower circle. Top with the dried cauliflower and garnish with the cocoa powder.

Polo Cortado 'Vides' Sherry

Lustau

Jerez de la Frontera, Spain

Crab Tuile with Roasted Foie Gras and Oyster Vinaigrette

(Serves 6)

h. Rlumenthal

ingredients

For the marinated salmon:
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 teaspoon fleur de sel
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon green peppercorns
30 coriander seeds
4 ounces salmon filet, thinly sliced
2 sprigs cilantro, stemmed
Salt and pepper to taste

For the crystallized seaweed:
2 ounces egg whites
3 ounces confectioners' sugar
1 sheet kombu, soaked, rinsed and
 squeezed dry *

For the crab reduction:
1/4 cup olive oil
2 pounds live green crabs **
Water as needed

For the crab Wiles:
7 ounces butter, melted and browned
7 ounces egg whites
7 ounces all-purpose flour
Reserved crab reduction
1/4 cup sesame seeds
Salt to taste

For the oyster vinaigrette:
8 large oysters, shucked, juices reserved
 and strained
1 cup olive oil
1 teaspoon lemon juice

For the foie gras:
6 4-ounces Foie gras slices
1 bunch chives, chopped
2 tablespoons 8-year-old balsamic vinegar
1/2 tablespoon fleur de sel
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon cracked black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

For the garnish:
Coriander seeds
Cilantro leaves
Green peppercorns
Reserved foie gras drippings
Balsamic vinegar
Sea salt

* Available in Asian markets.

** Green crabs are less than three inches in length. Available through
M. Slavin and Sons Limited at [phone].

For the marinated salmon: In a bowl, combine the sugar, salt, olive oil, peppercorns, and coriander seeds. Place the salmon slices in a non-reactive dish and sprinkle the mixture over the salmon. Place the cilantro leaves on top; cover and refrigerate for four hours. Remove the coriander leaves and season.

For the crystallized seaweed: Preheat the oven to 150 degrees. Place the egg whites and sugar in a bowl. Using a hand-held immersion blender, mix for one minute. Place the seaweed in the bowl and coat with the egg whites. Remove the seaweed, squeezing out the excess egg white mixture and place in a single layer on a silpat-lined sheet pan. Place in the oven until dry, about fifteen minutes, turning once. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

For the crab reduction: Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. In a large saute pan, heat the oil over high heat until smoking. Add the crabs and saute until toasted and nutty in aroma. Cover with water and bring to a boil. Salt to taste. Add the crab reduction, salt to taste and mix to combine. Reduce the heat and simmer for two hours. Remove from the heat and strain through a cheesecloth-lined fine mesh sieve, discarding the crabs. Return to a saucepan and simmer until reduced to three-quarters of a cup, skimming occasionally. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the crab tuiles: Adjust the oven temperature to 300 degrees. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the butter and egg whites and beat on high speed until smooth and creamy, about three minutes. Add the flour in several stages, scraping down the sides of the bowl between each addition. Add the crab reduction, salt to taste and mix to combine. Spread on a silpat-lined sheet pan to form twelve 3-inch tuiles. Sprinkle the sesame seeds onto half of the tuiles and bake until light brown, about twenty minutes.

For the oyster vinaigrette: In a blender, combine the oysters and one tablespoon of the oyster juice and blend until smooth. With the motor running, add the olive oil in a thin, steady stream until the mixture thickens. Add the lemon juice to taste; strain through a fine mesh sieve and place in the refrigerator.

For the foie gras: Place the foie gras on a parchment-lined sheet pan in the freezer until chilled. Transfer to a sous vide bag, extract the air and seal using a commercial food vacuum sealer. Place back in the freezer. Bring a large saucepan of water to 150 degrees. Place the sous vide bag in the saucepan for 15 minutes. Remove the foie gras from the bag and place on a parchment-lined sheet pan. In a bowl, combine the chives, balsamic vinegar, salt, and pepper and toss to combine. Heat a saucepan over high heat. Sear each slice of foie gras until caramelized, turning once. Remove from the heat and reserve the foie gras drippings for garnish. Place on a paper towel-lined sheet pan and sprinkle with the chive mixture.

To serve: Place a slice of marinated salmon, two coriander seeds, one cilantro leaf, and one green peppercorn in the center of a plate. Arrange a portion of seaweed on top of the salmon. Place a plain crab tuile with a slice of foie gras on top. Top with a crab tuile with sesame seeds. Drizzle the oyster vinaigrette around the plate and garnish with the foie gras drippings and balsamic vinegar.

Iphafefer Kronsberg Spatlese Trocken Wirsching Franken, Germany 2000

Beet and Orangen Jelly

(Serves 18)

h. Rlumenthal

ingredients

For the blood orange jelly:
13 ounces blood orange juice
4 sheets gelatin, softened in cold water

For the beet jelly:
13 ounces yellow be et juice
Vitamin C powder to taste
4 sheets gelatin, softened in cold water

Directions

For the blood orange jelly:

Pineau Francosi ler Gaston Rivere Cognac, France

Line a 10 1/2 x 3 x 3 1/4-inch terrine mold with three layers of plastic wrap. Place one-third of the orange juice in a saucepan to warm. Add the gelatin and stir until melted. Add the remaining juice; remove from the heat and pour into the prepared mold. Refrigerate until set, about two hours.

For the beet jelly: In a bowl, combine the beet juice with the Vitamin C powder. Place one-third of the beet juice in a saucepan to warm. Add the gelatin and stir until melted. Add the remaining juice; remove from the heat and pour on top of the blood orange jelly. Refrigerate until set, about two hours.

To serve: Invert the jelly onto a cutting board and remove the mold and plastic wrap. Cut into eighteen 1/2-inch cubes and plate.

Lychee Mousse and Mango Sauce with Beet Root Tuiles

(Serves 6)

h. Rlumenthal

Ingredints

For the blackberry sorbet:
4 ounces water
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 1/2 ounces glucose
14 ounces blackberry puree
Juice of 1/2 lemon

For the lychee mousse:
6 ounces lychee puree
3 gela tin sheets, softened in cold water
2 ounces egg whites
1 ounce gran ulated sugar
1 ounce water
6 ounces heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks

For the mango jelly:
6 ounces mango puree
3 ounces water
1 small vanilla bean, split and scraped
Black pepper to taste
1 gelatin leaf, softened in cold water

For the mango sauce:
17 ounces mango puree, warmed
5 ounces unsalted butter, chilled and diced

For the beet tuiles:
5 ounces red beet puree, squeezed of excess water
1 1/2 ounces confectioners' sugar
1 egg white

For the beet jelly:
8 1/2 ounces beet juice
5 ounces water
1 ounce trimoline
1 ounce green peppercorns
Black pepper to taste
3 gelatin leaves, softened in cold water

For the pine nuts:
3 1/2 ounces pine nuts
1 teaspoon egg whites
1 teaspoon salt

For the garnish:
Lime zest blanched in salted water

Directions

For the blackberry sorbet: In a saucepan, combine the water, sugar, and glucose. Bring to a boil; remove from the heat and transfer to a bowl. Add the blackberry puree and lemon juice. Whisk to combine and freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.

For the lychee mousse: Place a 10 1/2 x 3 x 3 1/4-inch nonreactive terrine mold in the freezer. In a saucepan, add the lychee puree and warm over medium heat. Add the gelatin and simmer until the gelatin has melted. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly. Whisk the egg whites to soft peaks. In a saucepan, bring the sugar and water to a boil. Simmer until 250 degrees. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly. Slowly add the sugar mixture to the egg whites, mixing constantly to soft peaks. Fold in the lychee mixture and then the whipped cream. Pour the mixture into the chilled terrine mold and refrigerate for three hours.

For the mango jelly: In a saucepan, warm the mango puree, water, vanilla scrapings, and black pepper. Add the gelatin and simmer until the gelatin has melted. Remove from the heat and let cool. Pour the mango jelly evenly over the lychee mousse, and set aside in the refrigerator until set, about three hours. Remove the mold and cut the mousse in half lengthwise. Place one half of the terrine on top of the other and set aside in the refrigerator.

For the mango sauce: In a chilled blender; combine the mango puree and butter. Blend until combined. Transfer to a squeeze bottle, and set aside.

For the beet tuiles: Preheat the oven to 220 degrees. In a medium bowl, combine all of the ingredients and mix to combine. Form thirteen 3 x 1 1/2-inch squares on a slipat-lined sheet pan. Set aside to air dry for 30 minutes. Place in the oven and bake for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool for one hour. Break one tuile into six pieces and set aside.

For the beet jelly: In a saucepan, combine the beet juice, water, trimoline, green peppercorns, and black pepper. Bring to a boil; remove from the heat and transfer to a blender. Blend for one minute and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Return to the blender and add the softened gelatin and blend again. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and pour onto a half sheet pan and set aside until set, about 2 hours. Cut into ninety-six 1/4 inch squares.

For the pine nuts: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. In a bowl, combine all of the ingredients and mix to combine. Place on a parchment-lined sheet pan and bake until golden brown, about 10 minutes.

To serve: Slice the mousse into six 1-inch slices. Place one slice of the mousse to one side of a plate and arrange the beet jelly squares, lime zest, and roasted pine nuts on top. Place a piece of the broken beet tuile on the opposite side of the mousse with a quenelle of blackberry sorbet on top. Arrange two of the beet tuiles in the center of the blackberry sorbet. Squeeze a portion of mango sauce in two lines around the lychee mousse and arrange several beet jelly squares around the plate.

Goldackarl Beerenauslese Willie Opitz Burgenland, Austria 2000

Chocolate Delice with Cumin Caramel Sauce

(Serves 10)

h. Rlumental

ingredients directions

For the chocolates sorbet:
16 ounces mineral water
1 ounces trimoline
5 ounces Valhrona Manjari cholocate, chopped

For the chocolate fondant:
10 1/2 ounces Valrohna chocolate, chopped
4 1/4 ounces Plugra butter
10 ounces egg whites
2 1/4 ounces water

For the base:
5 ounces hazelnuts, roasted and ground
3/4 ounce milk chocolate, melted
7 ounces pop rocks
1/2 ounce unsalted butter, softened
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

For the chocolate nappage:
1 3/4 ounces Valhrona Manjari chocolate
3 ounces water
1 ounce granulated sugar
1 1/2 ounces heavy cream
7 ounces dark chocolate
5 1/2 ounces whole mole

For the cinnamon and cumin caramel souce:
5 1/4 ounces heavy cream
2 1/4 cinnamon sticks, ground in a spice grinder
1/3 cup cumin seeds
8 ounces granulated sugar
1 ounce water
2 ounces unsalted butter

For the black pepper tuiles:
1/2 teaspoon whole black pepper
1/2 teaspoon white peppercorns
1/2 teaspoon allspice
2 1/2 ounces unsalted butter
5 1/4 ounces granulated sugar
2 1/2 ounces all-purpose flour
4 ounces coconut milk

For the chocolate caramel:
2 ounces granulated sugar
2 ounces glucose
1/2 tablespoon water
2 ounces unsweetened chocolate, finely chopped

For the chocolate sorbet: In a saucepan, combine the mineral water, cocoa powder, trimoline, and chocolate. Bring the mixture to a boil and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Place over, an ice bath to chill. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.

For the chocolate fondant: In a saucepan, combine the chocolate and butter and melt over low heat. Place the egg whites in a bowl. Pour the chocolate mixture over the egg whites and whisk until well combined. Add the water; whisk to combine and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the base: In a bowl, combine all of the ingredients.

For the chocolate nappage: In a saucepan, combine the chocolate, water, sugar, and heavy cream. Simmer over low heat until the mixture coats the back of a spoon, about six to eight minutes. In a separate saucepan, combine the remaining chocolate and the milk. Bring to a simmer and cook until the chocolate has melted. In a medium bowl, combine both chocolate mixtures and whisk until smooth. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the cinnamon and cumin caramel sauce: In a saucepan, heat the heavy cream, cinnamon, and cumin seeds. Remove from the heat and let infuse. In a separate saucepan, add the sugar and water and bring to a caramel stage. Add the butter and whisk until well combined. Slowly add the cream mixture; remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the black pepper tuiles: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a spice grinder, combine the whole black pepper, white peppercorns, and allspice. Grind to a fine powder and sift. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar until light and lemon colored, about three minutes. Add the flour; coconut milk, and spice mixture in several stages, scraping down the sides of the bowl between each addition. Spread in a thin layer of the batter to form ten 4-inch circles on a silpat-lined sheet pan. Bake until golden brown, about 16 to 18 minutes.

For the chocolate caramel: In a saucepan, combine the sugar; glucose, and water. Bring to 320 degrees. Remove from the heat and allow the mixture to cool to 300 degrees. Add the chocolate and mix to combine. Pour the mixture onto a silpat-lined sheet pan and set aside to cool. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside for two hours. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Unwrap the sheet pan and place in the oven for about five minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer to a work surface. Working directly from the hot sheet pan, carefully and quickly pull the edges of the sugar into thin, wide strips. Cut off the thick ends and set aside to harden.

To assemble the delice: Place ten 9 x 3-inch strips of acetate on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Spread the chocolate onto the acetate strips and set aside until set, about twenty minutes. Place ten 3-inch ring molds on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Fill each mold with one and one-half tablespoons of the base mixture. Fill the rest of the molds to the top with the fondant. Freeze until set, about four hours. Place a prepared chocolate acetate strip around each parfait to transfer to the sides of the parfait and remove the acetate.

To serve: Place a small line of the cinnamon and cumin caramel sauce across the center of a plate. Set a delice in the center of the plate with a black pepper tuile next to it. Top the tuile with a quenelle of chocolate sorbet and a piece of the chocolate caramel. Spoon a portion of the cinnamon and cumin caramel sauce next to the delice.

Maury Solena 1928 Selection Gerard Gauby Cave des Vignerons do Maury Roussillon, France

Roasted Grey Leg Partridge with Quince and Foie Gras Struffed Cabbage

(Serves 4)

m. Harris

ingredients

For the spiced quince compote:
2 quinces
2/3 pound granulated sugar
10 ounces water
2 bay leaves
6 cloves
1/2 cinnamon stick
1 orange, zested and juiced
I lemon, zested and juiced

For the chicken mousse:
1 5-ounce chicken breast, diced
7 ounces heavy cream
1 egg
Reserved diced quince
Salt and pepper to taste

For the juniper sauce:
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 pound partridge bones
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 rib celery, chopped
I onion, peeled and chopped
1/4 cup Port wine
1/2 cup red wine
1/4 cup juniper berries, crushed
Salt and pepper to taste

For the partridge:
4 grey leg partridges, trussed
2 ounces vegetable oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the stuffed cabbage:
4 Savoy cabbage leaves, blanched and shocked
10 ounces foie gras terrine
Salt and pepper to taste
Reserved chicken mousse

For the dish:
Brioche rounds, toasted

For the spiced quince compote: Peel, core, and quarter the quinces. Place the peels and cores in a saucepan. Add the sugar, water, bay leaves, cloves, cinnamon, orange zest and juice, and lemon zest and juice. Bring to a boil and simmer for thirty minutes. Add the quinces and simmer until soft, about one hour. Remove from the heat and place in the refrigerator. Remove the quinces from the liquid, discarding the liquid. Finely dice half of the quince and set aside for the chicken mousse. Place the remaining quince in the bowl of a food processor and puree until smooth.

For the chicken mousse: Place the chicken in the bowl of a food processor and puree until smooth. Pass through a tamis and place in a bowl over ice. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the heavy cream, egg, and quince. Season and set aside.

For the juniper sauce: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a roasting pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the carrot, celery, and onion, and brown. Add the bones and brown on all sides. Place in the oven and roast until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and place over medium heat. Deglaze with the Port and red wine, cover with water and bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by half, about one hour. Remove from the heat; strain through a fine mesh sieve and return to a saucepan. Add the juniper berries and simmer for 10 minutes. Season and set aside, keeping warm.

For the partridge: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Season the partridges with salt and pepper. In a saute pan, heat the oil and brown the partridges on all sides. Place in the oven and cook until desired doneness. Remove from the heat and set aside.

For the stuffed cabbage: Preheat the steamer. Place the cabbage leaves on a flat work surface. Cut four 1-ounce slices of foie gras and form each into a ball. Divide the chicken mousse equally among the cabbage leaves and place in the center of each leaf. Place a ball of foie gras into the center of the chicken mousse. Wrap the cabbage leaves around the mousse and secure tightly with plastic wrap. Place in the steamer for 10 minutes.

To finish to foie gras: Slice the remaining foie gras into four equal portions and season. Place a saute pan over high heat. Saute the foie gras slices for two minutes, turning once.

To serve: Place a brioche round to one side of a plate with a portion of quince compote on top. Set a partridge on top of the compote. Place a stuffed cabbage with a slice of sauteed foie gras on top next to the partridge. Spoon a portion of juniper gravy around the dish and on top of the partridge.

Vosne-Romanee

R. Arnoux

Burgundy, France 1995

Calves' Sweetbreads with Parsnip Puree and Sauce Charcutiere

(Serves 4)

m. Harris

ingredients

For the sauce charcutiere:
2 ounces unsalted butter
1 shallot, peeled and minced
1/2 teaspoon mustard powder
1/2 teaspoon red currant jelly
12 ounces white wine
4 ounces strong veal stock
1 ounce cornichons, julienned
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
Salt and pepper to taste

For the parsnip puree:
1 quart milk
1 1/2 pounds parsnips, peeled
4 cloves garlic, peeled
1 sprig thyme
3 ounces unsalted butter
Salt and pepper to taste

For the sweetbreads:
3 ounces clarified butter
2 pounds calves' sweetbreads, blanced,
 outer membrane removed, cut into four
 8-ounce slices
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Chopped parsley

Directions

For the sauce charcutiere: In a saucepan, melt half of the butter. Add the shallot and saute until soft and golden brown. Add the mustard powder, red currant jelly, and white wine. Simmer until reduced by two-thirds. Add the veal stock and bring to a boil. Add the cornichons and whisk in the Dijon mustard. Add the remaining butter, whisking constantly. Season and set aside, keeping warm.

For the parsnip puree: in a saucepan, combine the milk, parsnips, garlic, and thyme. Bring to a simmer and cook until the parsnips are tender, about twelve minutes. Remove the parsnips and garlic and place in a blender. Discard the milk. Add the butter and puree until smooth. Pass through a tamis; season and keep warm.

For the sweetbreads: In a saute pan, heat the clarified butter. Season the sweetbreads and saute until golden brown.

To serve: Spoon a portion of parsnip puree in the center of a plate. Place a slice of the sweetbread on top of the puree. Spoon a portion of the sauce around the sweetbread and garnish with chopped parsley.

Toulifaut Pomerol Chateau La Croix Bordeaux, France 1997

Calves' Brains En Persillade with Red Wine Sauce

(Serves 4)

m. Harris

ingredients

For the calves' brains:
2 quarts water
6 ounces white wine vinegar
1 onion, peeled and sliced
6 cloves
8 bay leaves
1 sprig thyme
4 calves' brains, outer membrane removed
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
3 ounces bread crumbs
Salt to taste

For the persillade:
1 large bunch parsley, stemmed, blanched and shocked
4 ounces unsalted butter, melted
3 cloves garlic, peeled
Salt to taste

For the red wine sauce:
12 ounces red wine
3 shallots, peeled and finely minced
2 bay leaves
17 ounces chicken stock, reduced by half
1 ounce unsalted butter
Salt and pepper to taste

Directions

For the calves' brains: In a saucepan, combine the water, white wine vinegar, onion, cloves, bay leaves, and thyme. Bring to a boil for five minutes. Reduce the heat and add the brains. Simmer until the brains are firm, about six minutes. Remove from the heat and chili in the refrigerator.

For the persillade: In a blender, combine the parsley, butter, and garlic. Puree until smooth. Season and set aside.

For the red wine sauce: In a saucepan, combine the red wine, shallots, and bay leaves. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by half. Add the chicken stock and reduce until it coats the back of a spoon. Add the butter and whisk to combine. Remove from the heat; discard the bay leaves, season, and set aside, keeping warm.

To finish the calves' brains: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a saucepan, heat the butter. Lightly flour the calves' brains and saute until light brown. Spoon a portion of the persillade over each of the brains and sprinkle with the breadcrumbs and salt. Place in the oven and roast until the breadcrumbs are golden brown, about five minutes.

To serve: Place a calves' brain in the center of a plate and spoon a portion of the red wine sauce around the calves' brain.

Latriceres-Chamberlin

Domaine Jean-Marie Ponsot

Burgundy, France 1990

Quince and Prune Clafoutis with Armagnac Ice Cream

(Serves 6)

m. Harris

Ingredients

For the Armgnac ice cream:
2 cups milk
2 vanilla beans, split
6 ounces granulated sugar
6 egg yolks
2 cups heavy cream
3 ounces Armagnac

For the spiced quince compote:
3 quinces, peeled, cored, and quartered
1 pound granulated sugar
2 cups water
3 bay leaves
10 cloves
1/2 cinnamon stick
2 oranges, zested and juiced
2 lemons, zested and juiced

For the clafoutis:
Softened butter as needed
4 eggs
4 egg yolks
3/4 ounce cornstarch
5 1/2 ounces granulated sugar
8 1/2 ounces heavy cream
Reserved quinces
1/2 cup slivered almonds
18 prunes, pitted and soaked in Armagnac
4 ounces unsalted butter, diced

Directions

Vin de Liqueur a I'Armagnac Domaine de Lucquy Vins de Pays, France

For the Armagnac ice cream: In a saucepan, bring the milk and vanilla beans to a boil. Reduce the heat and maintain at a simmer. In a medium bowl, combine the sugar and egg yolks and whisk until smooth. Temper the egg yolks, adding one-third of the hot milk while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered egg yolks into the hot milk and place over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. When the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon, remove from the heat and add the heavy cream and Armagnac. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside over an ice bath until chilled. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions. For the spiced quince compote: Place the peels and cores in a saucepan. Add the sugar, water, bay leaves, cloves, cinnamon, orange zest and juice, and lemon zest and juice. Bring to a simmer for two hours. Add the quince and simmer until soft, about one hour. Remove from the beat and place in the refrigerator. Remove the quince from the liqui d and dice. Discard the liquid.

For the Clafoutis: Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Brush six gratin dishes with softened butter. In a bowl, combine the eggs, egg yolks, cornstarch, sugar, and heavy cream. Whisk to combine and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Arrange the diced quinces in the bottom of each gratin dish. Divide the batter equally among the gratin dishes. Sprinkle the top with the almonds, prunes, and diced butter. Bake until golden brown, about 10 minutes.

To serve: Place a scoop of Armagnac ice cream on top of the clafoutis.

Calves' Feet Salad with Mustard Fruit

(Serves 4)

g. Locatelli

ingredients

For the calves' feet:
4 calves' feet
2 quarts sunflower seed oil
1/2 cup flour
2 eggs, beaten
1/2 cup breadcrumbs
Salt and pepper to taste

For the salad:
Zest and juice of 1 lemon, zest julienned and blanched
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon lemon oil
3 cups assorted greens
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
2 ounces mustard fruit, diced

Directions

For the calves' feet: Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil. Add the calves' feet and boil for five minutes. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for two hours. Allow to cool and separate the meat from the bones. In a large saucepan, bring the sunflower oil to 355 degrees. Cut the calves' feet meat into squares. Place the flour in a bowl and season. Place the eggs and the breadcrumbs in separate bowls. Dredge the calves' feet meat in the flour and pat off any excess. Dip in the eggs and coat liberally with the breadcrumbs. Place in the sunflower oil and cook until golden brown. Remove from the oil and set aside on a paper towel-lined sheet pan. Season and set aside, keeping warm.

For the salad: In a bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, olive oil, lemon oil, and season. Reserve one tablespoon of the dressing. Add the assorted greens and toss to coat well. Place the reserved dressing in a bowl; add the julienned lemon zest and toss to coat.

To serve: Arrange pieces of the calves' feet meat in the center of a plate. Place a portion of the salad on top and garnish with the julienned lemon zest. Sprinkle the plate with the diced mustard fruit.

Chardonnay

Plancta

Sicily, Italy 2001

Chestnut Tagliatelle with Wild Mushrooms

(Serves 4)

g. Locatelli

ingredients

For the pasta dough:
14 ounces durum flour
3 1/2 ounces chestnut flour
15 egg yolks
3 1/2 ounces olive oil
Salt to taste

For the sauce:
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
10 ounces assorted wild mushrooms
3 ounces white wine
7 ounces brown chicken stock
1/2 bunch chives, chopped
1/4 bunch parsley, stemmed
Reserved pasta cooking water
1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated
2 ounces unsalted butter
Salt and pepper to taste

directions

For the pasta dough: Sift the flours together into the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade attachment. Slowly add the eggs, oil, and salt and mix until just combined. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth, about ten minutes. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and set aside to rest for one hour. Divide the dough in half and roll each piece through a pasta machine, starting on the thickest setting and finishing on the thinnest setting, Trim the sheets to six inches in length and cut into long strips using a tagliatelle cutter.

For the sauce: In a saucepan, heat the oil. Add the garlic and mushrooms and saute. Add the wine and simmer for one minute. Add the chicken stock, chives, and parsley and cook for an additional five minutes.

To finish the pasta: Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the tagliatelle and simmer until cooked. Drain the pasta, reserving 1/2 cup of the cooking water.

To finish the sauce: In a saucepan, heat the sauce over medium heat, add the reserved pasta cooking water, Parmesan cheese, and butter. Add the pasta; season and cook until warmed through.

To serve: Place a portion of the tagliatelle in a bowl.

Rossa di Mantepulciano

Poliziano

Tuscany, Italy 2000

Spaghetti with Octopus

(Serves 4)

g. Locatelli

ingredients

For the sauce:
4 pounds octopus meat
2 ounces olive oil
1 jalepeno pepper, seeded and diced
3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
1/2 bunch parsley, stemmed
1 cup clam juice
2 crushed tomatoes
Salt to taste

For the dish:
10 ounces spaghetti, cooked

directions

For the Sauce: Place the octopus meat on a cutting board and pound with a mallet to tenderize. In a saute pan, heat half of the olive oil over medium heat. Add the octopus, jalepeno pepper, garlic, half of the parsley, and the clam juice. Cover and simmer for 1 hour. Remove from the heat and remove the octopus, reserving the cooking liquid. Place the octopus on a cutting board and dice. In a separate saute pan, heat the remaining olive oil. Add the tomatoes, the remaining parsley and the octopus. Add two ounces of the octopus cooking liquid and saute until warmed through, about three minutes. Season with salt.

To finish the dish: Add the spaghetti to the sauce and toss to coat.

To serve: Place a portion of the spaghetti in a bowl.

Chordonnay

Plancta

Sitily, Italy 2001

Fried Ravioli with Plum Compote and Honey Eucalypus Ice Cream

(Serves 6)

g. Locatelli

ingredients

For the honey eucalyptus ice cream:
2 cups milk
1 ounce dry milk powder
2 ounces unsalted butter
1 ounce glucose
1/2 teaspoon ice cream stabilizer
4 ounces white clover honey
1/2 teaspoon dried eucalyptus *
1/2 ounce granulated sugar
2 egg yolks

For the pasta:
7 ounces durum flour
1 1/2 ounces corn flour
2 1/2 ounces egg yolks
1/2 cup pecorino cheese, grated
Zest of 1 lemon

For the dried apple:
10 ounces simple syrup
Juice of 1 lemon
1 Granny Smith apple, julienned

For the Sharon fruit:
4 cups water
1 pound granulated sugar
3 Sharon fruit, quartered

For the dish:
Mango sauce

* Available through Select Oils at 866-645-7888

directions

For the honey eucalyptus ice cream: In a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the milk, milk powder, butter, glucose, ice cream stabilizer, honey and eucalyptus to a boil. Reduce the heat and maintain at a simmer. In a medium bowl, combine the sugar and egg yolks and whisk until 'smooth. Temper the egg yolks, adding one-third of the hot milk while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered egg yolks into the hot milk and place over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. When the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon, remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Set aside over an ice bath and freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturers' instructions

For the pasta: Preheat a fryer to 375 degrees. Place the durum and corn flour in the bowl of a food processor. Add the egg yolks and mix until just combined. Transfer to a lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside to rest for one hour. Divide the dough into four pieces and roll through a pasta machine starting on the thickest setting and ending on the second to thinnest. Using a 3-inch cutter, cut out 24 circles and place on a parchment-lined sheet pan. In a bowl, combine the pecorino with the lemon zest. Place a teaspoon of the pecorino mixture into half of the circles and brush the edges with the egg wash. Cover with the remaining circles and press the edges to seal. Place in the fryer until crispy; remove from the heat and place on a paper towellined sheet pan.

For the dried apple: Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Place six 3-inch ring molds on a silpat-lined sheet pan and spray the insides of the mold with non-stick spray. In a bowl, combine the simple syrup and lemon juice. Dip the julienned apple into the simple syrup and squeeze dry. Place a portion of the apple on the inside of a ring mold and spread out. Repeat with the remaining ring molds. Place in the oven until dry and crispy, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Carefully remove the ring molds and set aside.

For the Sharon fruit: In a saucepan, combine the water and sugar and bring to a simmer to dissolve the sugar. Add the Sharon fruit and simmer until tender, about 20 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the Sharon fruit and set aside to cool, discarding the liquid.

To serve: Spoon a portion of mango sauce in the center of the plate, forming two lines. Place a Sharon fruit in the center and arrange two ravioli next to it. Place a quenelle of ice cream inside the dried apple and garnish with additional dried apple.

Chocolate Parfait with Almond Brittle

(Serves 4)

g. Locatelli

For the plum compote:
8 ounces water
1 ounce granulated sugar
1/4 ounce pectin
4 ripe plums, pitted and diced

For the chocolate parfait:
2 ounces egg whites
2 ounces granulated sugar
6 1/2 ounces heavy cream,
whipped to soft peaks
4 ounces Calibaut dark
 chocolate, chopped
1/2 ounce dextrose

For the chocolate foam:
8 1/2 ounces Calibaut dark
 chocolate, chopped
8 1/2 ounces minearl water
1 1/2 ounces dextrose

For the caramel tuile:
4 ounces granulated sugar
2 ounces water

For the almond brittle:
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup water
1/4 cup almonds, chopped

For the plum compote: In a saucepan, combine the water sugar, and pectin and bring to 110 degrees. Add the sugar and pectin and simmer for two minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Add the plums and place in the refrigerator overnight.

For the chocolate parfait: Place four 3x3 molds on a parchment-lined sheet pan and coat with non-stick spray. Bring a medium saucepan filled halfway with water to a boil; reduce the heat and maintain at a simmer. In a separate bowl, whisk together the egg whites and sugar. Place the bowl over the hot water bath, making sure the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water, and continue to whisk until the mixture reaches 140 degrees. Remove from the heat and transfer to an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and whisk on high speed until cooled. Remove the bowl from the mixer and fold in the heavy cream, chocolate, and the dextrose. Transfer to the prepared molds and place in the freezer.

For the chocolate foam: Place four 3-inch tall molds on a parchment-lined sheet pan and coat with non-stick spray. Place the chocolate in a bowl. In a saucepan, combine the water and dextrose and bring to a simmer. Pour over the chocolate and whisk until combined. Fill a whipped cream siphon with the mixture and let rest upside down for one hour. Dispense into the prepared molds and place in the freezer.

For the caramel tuile: In a saucepan, combine the sugar and water. Cover and simmer until golden brown. Remove from the heat. Drizzle in a decorative pattern onto a silpat-lined sheet pan and set aside to cool. Cut into four 4 x 3-inch rectangles.

For the almond brittle: In a saucepan, combine the sugar and water and simmer until golden brown. Remove from the heat; add the almonds and pour onto a silpat-lined sheet pan. Set aside to cool; transfer to a cutting board and finely chop.

To serve: Place a portion of almond brittle to one side of a plate. Unmold a chocolate parfait on top. Unmold a chocolate foam next to the parfait with a caramel tuile in between. Spoon a portion of plum compote onto the front of the plate and drizzle with syrup.

Vino Novelli

Bardolino DOC

Veneto, Italy 2002

Terrine of Salmon, Red Mullet and Foie Gras

(Serves 18)

C. Staines

ingredients

For the terrine:
1 1/4 pound foie gras terrine,
 sliced into five equal pieces
1 side salmon, skinned, bones removed
5 red mullet filets, bones removed
1/2 bunch thyme, stemmed Sea salt to taste
Pink salt to taste

For the con fit:
1/2 bunch thyme
6 garlic cloves, peeled
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
8 cups olive oil
Reserved foie gras
Reserved salmon
Reserved red mullet

For the mushrooms:
4 cups strong chicken stock
1/4 bunch thyme
2 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced
1 1/4 pounds shiitake mushrooms, trimmed

For the lentils:
20 ounces green lentils, soaked overnight
5 cups strong chicken stock
1/4 bunch thyme, stemmed
2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
8 ounces bacon
12 gelatin leaves, softened
 in cool water
Salt and pepper to taste

For the salad:
12 small ratte potatoes, 1/4-inch diced
Reserved con fit oil
9 ounces 1/4-inch diced bacon
6 large beefsteak tomatoes, diced
6 ounces finely chopped capers
3/4 bunch parsley, stemmed and chopped
3/4 bunch tarragon, stemmed and chopped
3/4 bunch cilantro, stemmed and chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup olive oil
1/3 cup balsamic vinegar

For the garnish:
4 ounces olive oil
Fleur de sel to taste
Thai asparagus spears, trimmed and blanched
Chervil sprigs
Toast points

Directions

For the terrine: In a small bowl, combine the foie gras, sea salt, and pink salt and marinate for one hour. Cut the salmon into slices equivalent in size to the foie gras slices and place in a separate bowl. Add sea salt and marinate for one hour. In another bowl, combine the red mullet filets, sea salt, and thyme and marinate for 25 minutes.

For the confit: With a mortar and pestle, crush the thyme, garlic, and peppercorns and place. in a large saucepan. Add the olive oil and heat the mixture. Place the foie gras, salmon, and red mullet in the olive oil mixture until the fish is cooked, about six to eight minutes. Reserve the fish and oil separately.

For the mushrooms: In a saucepan, combine the chicken stock, thyme, and garlic. Bring to a boil and add the mushrooms. Cook the mushrooms until tender, about 12 minutes. Drain the mushrooms and allow to cool.

For the lentils: In a saucepan, combine the chicken stock, lentils, thyme, garlic, and bacon. Simmer until the lentils are tender, about 15 minutes. Remove the herbs and bacon and puree the lentils until smooth. Pass the lentil puree through a tamis. Combine the softened gelatin with the warm lentils and adjust seasoning.

To assemble the terrine: Line a medium-sized terrine mold with plastic wrap. Spread a thin layer of the lentil puree onto the bottom of the mold. Arrange several of the salmon slices over the top of the lentils. Cover with a layer of foie gras, one red mullet filet, and a layer of mushrooms. Repeat the process, alternating layers until the mold is filled. Cover with plastic wrap and evenly distribute two pounds over the terrine. Refrigerate overnight.

For the salad: In a saucepan over medium heat, cook the potatoes in .the reserved confit oil. Allow the potatoes to cool in the cooking liquid. In a saute pan, render the bacon until golden brown and crispy. Remove the potatoes from the oil and in a medium bowl, combine with the bacon, tomatoes, capers, parsley, tarragon, and cilantro. Season the mixture well. In a separate bowl, whisk together the oil and vinegar Reserve one cup and toss the salad ingredients to coat with the remaining dressing.

To serve: Place a slice of terrine on a plate. Fill a rectangular mold that is similar in size and shape to the terrine with salad and unmold next to the terrine. Brush the terrine slice with olive oil and sprinkle with the Fleur de sel. Toss the asparagus to coat with the reserved salad dressing and arrange on top of the salad. Garnish with chervil sprigs and serve with the toast points.

Chateau Larrivet Haut-Brion Pessac-Leagnan France 1998

Marinated foie Gras Terrine with Endive Tarte Tatin

(Serves 6)

C. Staines

ingredients

For the foie gras tenine:
1 lobe foie gras, about 1 pound,
soaked, blanched, and deveined
1 ounce assorted spices
6 black peppercorns
1 bunch thyme
25 ounces Port
Salt to taste

For the tarte Tatin:
1 orange, zested and juiced
1 lemon, zested and juiced
2 ounces olive oil
1 sprig thyme
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
8 heads baby endive, leaves separated
6 ounces butter, softened
4 ounces granulated sugar
6 puff pastry discs, 3 1/2-inches wide
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the seared fole gras:
1 lobe foie gras, about 1 pound,
soaked, blanched, deveined and
cut into 6 slices
Salt and pepper to taste
Cocoa powder, as needed

For the Sauternes sauce:
1/2 tablespoon olive oil
4 shallots, peeled and diced
3 white mushrooms, sliced
1 sprig thyme
8 ounces Sauternes
8 ounces chicken stock
8 ounces heavy cream
Salt and pepper to taste

For the had cot vert salad:
4 ounces haricots verts, blanched
1 large shallot, finely minced
2 ounces walnut oil
Salt and pepper

For tlie garnish:
Fleur de sel
Black pepper, cracked
Chopped chives
4 ounces Jerusalem artichoke chips
6 black truffle slices
6 sprigs chervil
cocoa powder
6 brioche toasts

For the foie gras terrine: Place the foie gras in a large, shallow bowl with enough salted water to cover. Let soak in the refrigerator overnight. Gently separate the two lobes. Cut the smaller lobe into two slices lengthwise. Cut the larger lobe into four equal pieces. Rub the salt into the pieces of foie gras; wrap in plastic wrap and place in the freezer for ten to fifteen minutes. Place the spices, pepper, and thyme in a piece of cheesecloth. Tie with a piece of butcher's twine to form a bouquet garni, In a saucepan, add the Port and bouquet garni. Bring to a simmer and reduce by two-thirds. Divide the foie gras into two pieces. Place into two separate sous vide pouches. Pour the Port marinade evenly into the sous vide pouches. Extract the air, seal the pouches, and marinate until well-colored, about 12 hours. Remove the foie gras from the pouches. Strain the Port marinade through a fine mesh sieve and reserve.

To assemble the terrine: Allow the foie gras to cool to room temperature. Press the foie gras into a 10/2 x 3 x 3 /4-inch plastic wrap-lined terrine mold. Cover the top of the terrine with plastic wrap; place a heavy weight on top and refrigerate overnight.

For the tarte Tatin: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Combine the orange zest and juice, and lemon zest and juice with the olive oil, thyme, and garlic. Place the endive leaves into a sous vide pouch, extract the air and seal. Place in the refrigerator overnight. Bring a saucepan filled with water to a simmer. Place the sous vide pouch into the water and cook until the endive is tender, about twelve minutes. Let cool. Remove the endive from the sous vide pouch, slice the leaves in half lengthwise, and reserve. Prepare six 3 1/4 x 3/4 -inch flan molds with the softened butter. Dust the molds with the sugar. Layer the endive leaves in the bottom of the molds. Place a puff pastry disc over the top of each mold, pushing the overlapping dough down the sides of the mold. Place in the refrigerator for thirty minutes. Place the molds on a sheet pan and bake until the puff pastry is golden brown, about twenty-five to thirty minutes. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the Sauternes sauce: In a saute pan, add the shallots and saute until translucent. Add the mushrooms and thyme and saute until the mushrooms are tender, Add the Sauternes and reduce slightly. Add the chicken stock and reduce by two thirds. Add the heavy cream and simmer lightly for three minutes. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside, keeping warm.

To make the haricot vert salad: In a bowl, combine the haricots verts, shallot, and walnut oil. Season and toss to coat.

For the seared foie gras: Season the foie gras slices and dust with cocoa powder. Heat a saute pan over high heat and sear the foie gras slices about thirty seconds on each side, or just until a crust forms. Place under a hot broiler to finish until desired doneness.

To finish the dish: Reduce the Port marinade until it reaches the consistency of thick syrup and reserve warm. Using a hand-held immersion blender, blend the Sauternes sauce until foamy.

To serve: Place a tarte Tatin on one end of a large rectangular plate. Place a slice of the seared foie gras on top of the tarte tatin. Spoon a small portion of the foamed Sauternes sauce on top of the tarte Tatin and sprinkle with the cracked pepper Fleur de sel and chives. Place a few of the artichoke crisps on top of the tarte Tatin. Place a slice of the foie gras terrine at the opposite end of the plate. Drizzle the terrine with the Port marinade reduction. Arrange a portion of the haricot vert salad in the middle of the plate. Place a slice of black truffle on top of the salad and garnish with a sprig of chervil. Spoon additional foamed Sauternes sauce on the plate and dust with cocoa powder. Serve with brioche toasts.

Olarasa Viejo Dulce Solera 1842 Valdespino, Spain

Nage of Langoustine with Frog Leg Ravioli

(Serves 6)

C. Staines

ingredients

For the langoustine Stock:
1/2 Cup olive oil
18 langoustines, bodies and claws crushed,
tails shelled, deveined, and reserved
1/2 cup Armagnac
1/2 cup vermouth
4 cups fish stock
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1onion, peeled and chopped
1 rib celery, chopped
1 head fennel, chopped
1/2 cup tomato paste
2 star anise
2 tablespoons black peppercorns
1 stick lemon grass, trimmed and crushed
1 sprig thyme
1 bay leaf
1/2 bunch tarragon
Salt and pepper to taste

For the ravioli filling:
2 Yukon gold potatoes, baked and peeled
1/2 tablespoon unsalted butter
5 ounces boneless, skinless chicken
breast, finely diced
1/4 cup frog leg meat, finely diced
3 1/4 ounces milk
1 garlic clove, peeled and finely minced
1 small egg
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/4 bunch parsley, finely chopped
3 ounces chicken mousse
Salt and pepper to taste

For the pasta dough:
10 ounces semolina flour
1 egg
4 egg yolks
1/4 teaspoon olive oil
Salt to taste
Egg was as needed

For the tempura:
4 large shallots, peeled and
thinly sliced into rings
3/4 cup all purpose flour
3/4 cup cornstarch
1/8 cup baking powder
2 cups milk
1/4 cup water
Salt to taste

For the dish:
Reserved langoustine tails, poached
in langoustine stock
3 heads baby fennel, leves finely sliced
2 ribs celery, peeled and finely sliced
2 large shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
4 ounces heavy cream, as needed
4 ounces unsalted butter, softened
4 tomatoes, seeded and diced
To finish the dish:
18 frogs' legs, feet removed,
sauteed in unsalted butter
1/2 bunch cilantro leaves, burshed
with egg whites, dusted with
confectioners' suger, and dried
under a heat lamp

directions

Nage of Langoustine with Frog Leg Ravioli

For the langoustine stock: In a large saucepan, heat half of the olive oil. Add the crushed langoustines and saute until deep red in color. Deglaze the pan with the Armagnac and vermouth and simmer until almost dry. Add the fish stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer. In a saute pan, heat the remaining olive oil. Add the carrot, onion, celery, garlic, and fennel, and saute until browned. Add the tomato paste and saute briefly. Add the star anise, peppercorns, lemon grass, thyme, and bay leaf. Add this mixture to the fish stock and simmer for twenty to twenty five minutes. Add the tarragon; cover and remove from the heat. Allow to sit for fifteen minutes and strain through a fine mesh sieve, discarding the solids. Season and set aside, keeping warm.

For the ravioli filling; Mash the potatoes in a bowl and keep warm. In a saute pan, heat the butter. Season the chicken and frog leg meat and saute until golden brown. Remove from the heat and let cool. In a saucepan, add the milk and garlic and bring to a boil. Add the milk mixture and egg to the mashed potatoes and thoroughly combine. Add the olive oil and parsley and mix to combine. Let cool. Add the chicken mousse; season and mix to thoroughly combine. Place in the refrigerator.

For the pasta dough: In an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, add the flour, egg, olive oil, and salt, and mix until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead until just firm. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for two hours. Divide the dough in half and roll each piece through a pasta machine, starting on the thickest setting and finishing on the thinnest setting. Using a 4-inch ring mold, cut out twelve pasta rounds and transfer to a parchment-lined sheet pan. Place a portion of the ravioli filling in the center of six of the pasta rounds and brush the edges with egg wash. Set the remaining pasta rounds on top; gently press the edges to remove any air bubbles and seal the edges. Cover and place in the refrigerator.

For the tempura: Preheat a fryer to 375 degrees. In a large bowl, whisk together the flours, baking powder, salt, milk, and water. Place the shallots in the batter to coat well and fry until golden. Drain the excess oil. Season and set aside, keeping warm.

To finish the ravioli: Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the ravioli; reduce the heat and simmer until done, about three minutes. Drain and keep warm.

To finish the dish: Bring the langoustine stock to simmer. Add the fennel, celery, and shallots and simmer gently until tender. Whisk in the heavy cream and butter. Add the tomatoes; toss to coat and keep warm.

To serve: Place a portion of the vegetable mixture in the center of a bowl. Set a ravioli on top of the vegetables and spoon additional nage on top of the ravioli. Garnish with the frogs' legs, langoustines, shallots, and cilantro leaves.

Riesling

Smaragd Klauss

Prager, Austria 1999

Trio of Turbot

(Serves 6)

C. Staines

ingredients

For the pig trotters:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 rib celery, peeled and chopped
1 onion, peeled and chopped
1/2 cup white mine
1/2 cup Madeira
5 cups veal stock
2 bay leaves
1 sprig thyme
2 pig's feet
Unsalted butter, as needed
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 8-ounce piece pork belly
2 cups soy sauce
1 cup mirin
1 cup sake
1/4 cup Bonito fish flakes
2 dried chilies
2-inch piece ginger, peeled and chopped
10 ounces water
8 ounces cepes, diced
6 ounces chicken mousse
Salt and pepper to taste
4 ounces flour
1 egg, beaten
1/2 cup panko breaddrumbs

For the seafood filling:
Butter, unsalted, as needed
2 zucchini, peeled and finely diced
1/2 bunch thyme, stemmed
8 ounces turbot trimmings, finely diced
8 ounces sea scallops, finely diced, muscles reserved
2 ounces scallop mousse

For the roasted shallots:
4 banana shallots, peeled and cut in half lengthwise
Olive oil, as needed
1/4 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
1 sprig thyme
1/4 teaspoon sea salt

For the hoseradish cream:
1 tablesppon olive oil
4 small shallots peeled and minced
3 button mushrooms, diced
Reserved scallop muscles, diced
1 cup white wine
1/2 cup vermouth
1 cup fish stock
1/2 cup creme fraiche
1/2 cup heavy cream
4 tablespoons creamed horseradish

For the red wine sauce:
1 tablespoon olive oil
4 small shallots, peeled and minced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 sprig thyme
4 black peppercorns
3 juniper berries
1 cup Port
1 cup red wine
1 cup veal stock
1/2 cup fish stock, reduced
1 tablespoon 5-spice, toasted

For the cabbage:
1 1/2 tablespoons bacon, finely diced
1 onion, peeled and finely diced
1 carrot, peeled and finely diced
1 head savoy cabbage leaves, finely chopped
1/2 cup white wine
1/2 cup chicken stock

For the turbot:
2 tablespoons olive oil
6 6-ounce turbot filets, skinless
6 6-ounce turbot steaks, skinless
1 cup fish stock
Juice of one lemon
Salt and pepper to taste

For the langoustines:
6 langoustines, peeled and poached in court bouillon

For the garnish:
Chervil sprigs
Lobster oil
Balsamic vinegar

For the pig trotters: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a large skillet, heat the oil. Add the carrot, celery, and onion, and saute until well caramelized. Deglaze with the white wine. Add the Madeira and reduce to syrup consistency. Add the veal stock, bay leaves, thyme and pig's feet. Cover with aluminum foil and braise in the oven until tender, about three hours. Remove the skin and meat from the pig's feet and trim the sinew. Strain the stock through a fine mesh sieve into a medium-sized roasting pan. Set aside, keeping warm. In a large skillet, heat the butter. Add the pork belly and sear on both sides. Add the soy sauce, mirin, sake, Bonito fish flakes, chiles, ginger, and water to the pig trotter stock. Place the pork belly in the pan; cover and braise until tender, about two hours. Remove the pork belly and once cool, shred thc meat with a fork. In a bowl; combine the cepes, chicken mousse, and shredded pork and season. Lay the pig trotter skin on a piece of plastic wrap. Mound the shredded pork mix ture down the center of the skin. Use the plastic wrap to roll into a tight cylinder. Tie the ends with butcher's twine. Place on a perforated rack and lower into simmering water teen minutes. Let cool; slice on the diagonal and place in the refrigerator.

For the seafood filling: In a saute pan, heat the butter. Add the zucchini and thyme and cook until tender, about six minutes. Cool and combine with the diced turbot, scallops, and scallop mousse. Set aside in the refrigerator.

For the pasta dough: In an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, add the flour, egg, olive oil and salt, and mix until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead until just firm. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for two hours.

To assemble the tortellini: Transfer the pasta dough to a lightly floured work surface; divide into four pieces and press gently to flatten. Roll each piece of dough through a pasta machine, starting at the thickest setting and ending at the second thinnest setting. Using a 4-inch ring mold, cut out twelve pasta rounds and transfer to a parchment-lined sheet pan. Line six lightly greased 2-inch ring molds with six of the 4-inch pasta rounds. Spoon a portion of the seafood filling in the center of each and fold the edges of the pasta rounds over the filling. Brush the edges with egg wash. Set the remaining pasta rounds on top; gently press the top pasta round to remove any air bubbles and seal the edges. Remove the tortellini from the ring molds and crimp the front edge of each. Cover and set aside in the refrigerator.

For the roasted shallots: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a saute pan, heat the olive oil. Add the shallots and saute until well caramelized. Deglaze with the balsamic vinegar. Add the garlic, thyme, and salt, and roast in the oven until tender, about twenty minutes. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the horseradish cream sauce: In a saute pan, heat the oil. Add the shallots, mush-rooms, and reserved scallop mussels. Cook until tender, about five minutes. Deglaze with the white wine and vermouth and reduce slightly. Add the fish stock and reduce by half. Add the creme fraiche, heavy cream, and horseradish. Cover and simmer for fifteen minutes. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside, keeping warm.

For the red wine sauce: In a saute pan, heat the oil. Add the shallots, garlic, thyme, peppercorns, and juniper berries and saute until the shallots are translucent. Deglaze with the Port and red wine and cook until the consistency of syrup. Add the veal stock and fish stock; simmer for five minutes and stir in the 5-spice powder. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside, keeping warm.

For the cabbage: Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. In a saute pan, render the pork. Add the onion and carrot and cook until tender. Add the cabbage and cook until just wilted. Add the white wine and chicken stock. Cover and braise until tender, about forty minutes.

For the turbot filets: In a saute pan, heat one tablespoon of the oil. Add the filets and sear on both sides until cooked to desired doneness.

For the turbot steaks: Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. In a saute pan, heat the remaining oil. Add the steaks and sear on both sides until golden brown. Deglaze the pan with the fish stock; pour the lemon juice over the fish and place in the oven. Roast until desired doneness.

To finish the pig trotters: Dredge the pig trotter slices in the flour, patting off any excess. Dip in the egg and liberally coat with the panko breadcrumbs. In a saute pan, heat the butter. Add the slices and fry on both sides until golden brown.

To finish the tortellini: Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the tortellini; reduce the heat and simmer until they rise to the top. Drain and keep warm.

To finish the horseradish cream sauce: With a hand-held immersion blender, puree the sauce until frothy.

To serve: Place a 1-inch ring mold on a plate and fill with the braised cabbage. Set a turbot filet on top with a langoustine. Garnish with a sprig of chervil. Set a slice of the breaded and fried pig's trotter meat next to the turbot filet and top with a turbot steak. Drizzle with the red wine sauce. Set a roasted shallot next to the turbot steak and top with a tortellini. Spoon a portion of the horseradish cream sauce on top. Drizzle the dish with the lobster oil and balsamic vinegar.

Art Series Chardonnay Leeuwin Estate West Australia, 1994

Banana Creme Brulee with Sea Salt Caramel Ice Cream

(Serves 8)

C. Staines

ingredients

For the ice cream:
1/4 cup superfine sugar
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1 ounce butter
9 ounces heavy cream
1 cup milk
6 egg yolks
3 1/2 ounces granulated sugar

For the creme brulee:
2 cups heavy cream
2 3/4 ounces granulated sugar
8 egg yolks
3 ounces banana liqueur

For the chocolate fruffle:
1 1/2 ounces water
1 1/2 ounces glucose
1 1/2 ounces granulatcd sugar
1 gelatin leaf, softened in cool water
10 ounces dark chocolate, melted
10 ounces heavy cream, whipped

For the guava jelly:
20 ounces guava juice
10 ounces orange juice
10 leaves gelatin, softened in cool water

For the caramel sauce:
4 ounces sugar
1 tablespoon water
3 ounces banana liqueur
1 ounce unsalted butter

For the banana fritters:
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup cornstarch
1 tablespoon baking powder
2 tablespoons cinnamon
2 cups milk
8 baby bananas, peeled and cut in half lengthwise

For the garnish:
Banana slices, caramelized
Mint sprigs
42 2-inch wide chocolate disks
Banana crisps

Directions

For the ice cream: In a saucepan, bring the superfine sugar, salt, butter, and two ounces of the heavy cream to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until a light golden caramel color. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly. In a large saucepan, bring the milk and remaining heavy cream to a boil and remove from the heat. In a bowl, combine the egg yolks and sugar and whisk until smooth. Temper the egg yolks, adding one-third of the hot milk while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered egg yolks back into the hot milk and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove from the heat; stir in the caramel and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Place over an ice bath until cooled. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.

For the creme brulee: Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Place eight 3-inch lightly greased ramekins in a hotel pan. In a saucepan, combine the cream and half of the sugar; bring to a boil and remove from the heat. In a bowl, combine the remaining sugar and egg yolks and whisk until smooth. Temper the egg yolks, adding one-third of the hot cream while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered egg yolks back into the hot cream and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Set over an ice bath until cooled and stir in the banana liqueur. Divide the cooled mixture evenly between the ramekins and place in a hot water bath. Place in the oven and hake until set, about thirty minutes. Set aside to cool.

For the chocolate truffle: In a saucepan, add the water, glucose, and sugar and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the gelatin and stir until completely melted, cool the mixture over an ice bath to about 70 degrees. Fold the chocolate into the whipped cream, and then fold into the sugar mixture. Fill eight 2-inch lightly greased ramekins with the mixture. Place in the refrigerator until set, about twenty to thirty minutes.

For the guava jelly: In a saucepan, bring the guava juice and orange juice to a boil. Remove from the heat and stir in the gelatin. Pour into a 13 x 9 x 2-inch rectangular pan. Place in the refrigerator until set, about four hours.

For the caramel sauce: In a saucepan, melt the sugar with the water, stirring constantly until the liquid becomes a golden brown caramel sauce. Remove from the heat; add the banana liqueur and whisk in the butter. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside, keeping warm.

For the banana fritters: Preheat a fryer to 375 degrees. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour and cornstarch, baking powder, cinnamon, and milk. Place the bananas in the batter to coat well and fry until golden. Drain the excess oil. Set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Unmold a creme brulee onto a plate. Arrange the caramelized bananas on top and garnish with a mint sprig. Place a chocolate disk to either side of the creme brulee. tinmold a chocolate truffle and place on top of one of the chocolate disks and top with another disk. Place a quenelle of ice cream on top and garnish with a banana crisp. With a 2-inch ring cutter, cut out eight circles of the guava jelly. Slice each of the circles in half transversely. Place one half on the remaining chocolate disk and top with another disk. Place the other half of the guava jelly circle on the chocolate disk and top with another disk. Garnish with two of the banana fritters. Drizzle the plate with the caramel sauce.

Dindarello Muscato Maculan France 2001