Last meals.

CALL US MORBID, IF YOU LIKE. GRANTED -- WE'VE CHOSEN A SENSITIVE SUBJECT. WE accept all responsibility for our lack of discretion, but we'll gladly defend those indictments denouncing distaste.

Conversation is a guilty pleasure. Sometimes it takes you to those dark corners of thought that inspire the juiciest discourse. And with all the ambient elements in place, barriers broken, comfort zones found, guards down, or when all other conversation is exhausted, be sure to listen up.

In lieu of this, most of us have thought, or talked about, our inevitable end. But how we might face it, is a bit more arbitrary and capricious. And what we might order, cook or have served to us for that very "special occasion" dares our deepest dispositions.

We took the topic to New York City where we knew of two chefs with an appreciation for the abstract. At Aquavit and Aureole, Marcus Samuelsson and Charlie Palmer took to those "dark corners" and conjured up their spreads.

We ask our readers to consider the question as well. Think of that last meal-the very last one. And please don't bring with you calorie or carbohydrate counting, budgetary concerns or allergies. Those can be left out of the conversation and off the table.

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"I'LL GO GET THE FOOTBALL!"

MR. PALMER WAS DELIGHTED TO GRAB "THE PIGSKIN" FROM THE UPSTAIRS OFFICE AT 34E. 61ST STREET, home to Aureole. He was a natural holding it. His hands more than big enough to grasp it. His look sturdy enough to play defensive tackle-or "roving linebacker/monster man" with "no assignment, but to kill!" His manner confident enough to be a humble Heisman Trophy winner. This was the perfect portrait. Palmer is a father of four boys-one even follows in Dad's footsteps. He's 10 years old, a linebacker with dreams of going to Penn State. The elder Palmer who might have had similar thoughts years ago, choose another direction-to cook, without visions of someday overseeing 11 restaurants (and other ventures), but as a way to "just" earn a living. And he's done just that-and more.

Charlie Palmer removed his walnut-colored canvas field coat and (perhaps they were?) deerskin shooting gloves. He had just stepped off a plane at LaGuardia not seven hours before, routed through Charlotte, the flight originating somewhere on the outskirts of Baton Rouge, Louisiana. He'd been duck hunting a passion he rarely gets to pursue these days. He is, after all, pretty busy.

He's fresh from the hunt. It's on his mind. "It was my first time in a Walmart, but that was the only store anywhere near where we went hunting. For my cooking demo, I brought dried cherries and some other ingredients with me--cryovaced. But I bought the shallots and fresh herbs there." We're amazed. 'Shallots at Walmart?' He laughs, "Yeah, shallots--really. And did you know you can get a hunting license in Walmart, too?"

About the trip he tells us, "Before we left I shot a snow goose. The goose fell out of the sky right at us! The next thing you know it was laying about two feet from the camera man! Luckily, he jumped out of the way. It would have knocked him out." (He informs us this was for a local television show in Louisiana--the cooking demo was part of the production). And what happened to the ducks? He mimics 'Tut', the camp cook. "Tut told me, 'You Yankees gotta' know how to make a good brown roux!'" Unfortunately, if the roux was any good, it didn't matter. "Tut put the ducks in the cooker for four hours. She cooked them until they were sawdust!"

Of course AC came here to talk about the topic--Last Meals. Between stories, we make a few meager and hapless attempts to get back on track--Palmer's anecdotes are too much fun, especially when he goes into character. Still, we wonder, 'What would Mr. Palmer have if faced with the task of choosing?' We remind him the circumstances don't matter. Regardless if he's faced with electrocution or hit by a falling snow goose. He describes his very last meal (the one that was just a few hours ago at the Charlotte airport): a "box of popcorn." "We came right off the water to the airport. I said, 'Can I get a regular burger?'" Again, another impersonation. "'Nope. We're all done.'" That was it--we're all done! How's that for Southern hospitality!" Guess he didn't get his burger.

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But really, what about that last meal?

He has an answer. "There would have to be some great French burgundy involved. And porcinis. That's a taste I couldn't imagine going without."

After spending a few hours with Mr. Palmer, he looks less like a fullback and more like a 1930s motion picture star. A wry smirk sneaks by the jet black mustache, trimmed up much like Orson Wells in The Third Man.

"I'm fiercely American. We live in an amazing country. We can do anything here." He describes his first book, Great American Food and now the Art of Aureole as "a progression of his restaurants." "It's death if you don't constantly innovate and move forward. I do things different now than I did 5-10 years ago, certainly different than 15 years ago. Right now, I'm trying to focus on how to make things better. I've made a declaration that for the next two years I won't do any new projects. The new book is a collaboration between my chefs and thinking outside the box. It takes a lot of prodding to get people to say 'Can this be done?' I mean we printed our recipes (for the book) on negatives! That's one of the great things about this country, you can do things differently." "Yes", he reiterates, "I'm fiercely American."

He starts talking about another book idea. We remind him he can't take on any new projects for two years.

"Right, two years." But we think he might call a couple plays before then.

Charlie PALMER

AUREOLE, NY

"WASN'T THAT MARCUS SAMUELSSON?"

THE INTRODUCTIONS WERE ETHEREAL. HE DRIFTED IN- AND OUT OF- THE ROOM SO QUICKLY WE weren't quite sure it was him. It's understandable. With his new restaurant, Riingo "behind schedule" and with one too many pesky journalists pestering him, Mr. Samuelsson, indeed, has his plate full.

He did, however, take care to see that every detail of our shoot was adhered to. His dutiful executive chef, Nils Noren was sent in to quarterback.

When we did sit down with Mr. Samuelsson, it was a little different than the usual subdued interview setting. Instead, the chef simultaneously granted our interview as well as one to an elementary-aged girl (for an ambitious school report on sustainable agriculture), greeted a friend in the neighborhood, nicknamed "Kravitz," and responded to Aquavit staff in need of quick answers. The chef gracefully entertained each of our solicitations while ravenously attacking what appeared like his 'first meal' in quite a long time--his lunch. Just the same, Mr. Samuelsson humored my questions. What did he think of our topic, Last Meals?

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"Everybody thinks about it (his last meal) at some point. It's a great concept. People who are into cars think, 'at least I want to be driving a certain car when it happens' and people who are into food say 'at least I want to be eating such and such or at a certain place.'"

And what might he take into consideration when it came to that last meal? (I handed the chef the nearest cloth napkin that was missing from his provisional place setting. He politely dabbed his mouth before continuing.)

"Nils and I combined are just as tough on our food as our harshest critic. What is relevant is what we've done before and what we want to accomplish. I'll always be uncomfortable with the product (even for the last time), but that's something I have to come to terms with. I think it's good that a chef has insecurities. You have to have some level of comfort with how you do things."

Nils and the chef have worked together now for eight years. Nils describes the concept at Aquavit as this: "blending techniques and ingredients. We take the Scandinavian heritage and mix it with something new."

There's been quite a lot of press about Mr. Samuelsson these days. In one article, it is pointed out "he enjoys wandering through art museums--(the MOMA is directly across Aquavit headquarters on 54th Street). His originality is sometimes inspired from such sources unrelated to food."

"Like most people in this field I have a creative and artistic side. Creativity is the start and end of food of this magnitude. At Aquavit, and now at Riingo, there are two different starting points. We're creating global bridges in both restaurants--though the geographical regions that inspire both restaurants are different, there are comparable textures and aesthetic flavors and on the whole, more similarities than differences."

"I think I'll always be influenced by different things. What moved me 15 years ago is different from what moves me now. Then, it was the great chefs of France and Thomas Keller. Now, I shoot from a different angle. I'm more apt to look to others who take chances. I look to music and groups like Outkast--who just released their double album Speakerboxxx/The Love Below. It's different. Daring. And a group like Coldplay is so creative. They are both musical and visual. It's very inspiring."

Samuelsson surprises. He has to. His audience is becoming rather large and anticipatory. But Mr. Samuelsson seems rather reluctant to become unduly comfortable with his celebrity. We talked about how he felt with this all-encompassing spotlight shining on him.

His cool response. "I think it's key you control your comfort zone. I'm referring to our internal and external boundaries. When I started, food wasn't happening, and when I finish, food won't be happening again. It will go up and down. But I'm committed and I'm going to be in it. You know? I want to really be in it right now."

And just like that, Mr. Samuelsson shook my hand and was gone. I stared at his empty lunch plate. Yeah, he was definitely "in it."

MARCUS SAMUELSSON

AQUAVIT, NY

RELATED ARTICLE: Pomegranate-Molasses Glazed Wild Boar (Serves 6)

Charlie PALMER

Three Sisters Vineyard Pinot Noir

Marcassin

Sonoma Coast, CA 1998

directions

For the pomegranate-molasses glaze: Mix all ingredients together and set aside.

For the wild boar: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Season boar leg heavily with salt and pepper. In a large pan over high heat, add vegetable oil. Add boar leg; sear evenly on all sides. Transfer boar to a wire rack-lined sheet pan. Roast in oven to desired doneness (about nine minutes per pound). During final quarter of roasting, baste boar with glaze. Remove from oven and cover loosely with foil. Let rest in a warm place for 15 minutes, continuing to baste with glaze every few minutes. Carve boar just before serving.

For the cherry quinoa: In a pot, heat butter. Add onions, cooking until just translucent. Add stock, thyme and season with salt and pepper; bring to a boil. Stir in quinoa and cover; simmer for 20 minutes until all liquid is absorbed. In a small pot, heat cherries and port; remove from heat and let cherries rehydrate. Remove from port and mix cherries with quinoa and season with salt and white pepper to taste. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the caramelized vegetables: In a large saute pan, add half of vegetable oil. Add carrots, rutabega and turnips; saute until lightly caramelized. Add butter and thyme; cook until vegetables are well caramelized. In a separate saute pan, add remaining vegetable oil and chicken stock. Add beets and cook until tender. Season all vegetables with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Spoon quinoa and vegetables in center of plate. Arrange boar slices over quinoa. Garnish with a sprinkle of fleur de sel, pomegranate seeds and rosemary.

Note: A 9-pound wild boar leg serves approximately 10 people.

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ingredients

For the pomegranate-molasses glaze:

1/4 cup orange zest
1/4 cup orange juice
1/2 cup demi-glace
1/2 cup wildflower honey
2 cups pomegranate molasses
2 tablespoons chopped rosemary
1 tablespoon cracked black peppercorns
1 teaspoon ground cumin
2 teaspoons salt

For the wild boar:

3 tablespoons vegetable oil
9-pound boar leg, bone in Salt and pepper to taste

For the cherry quinoa:

2 tablespoons butter
2 red onions, peeled and finely chopped
6 cups chicken stock
3 sprigs thyme
3 cups quinoa
1 cup sun-dried cherries
1 cup ruby port Salt and white pepper to taste

For the caramelized vegetables:

4 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 cups turned carrots
2 cups turned rutabega
2 cups turned turnips
2 tablespoons butter
3 sprigs thyme
1/2 cup chicken stock
2 cups turned beets Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Fleur de sel
Pomegranate seeds
Rosemary leaves

RELATED ARTICLE: Honey-Roasted Squab with Parsnip Jam (Serves 6)

Charlie PALMER

Barbaresco Vigneto Brich Ronchi

Albino Rocca

Piedmont, Italy 1996

directions

For the parsnip jam: In a pot, combine Riesling, half of honey, sugar, brown sugar, cinnamon, orange juice and zest; reduce to a syrup. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. In a saute pan, add half of vegetable oil and caramelize onions. Add two tablespoons remaining honey and season with salt and pepper to taste; cook until deep golden brown. In a separate saute pan, add remaining vegetable oil and caramelize parsnips. Add remaining honey and season with salt and pepper; cook until deep golden brown. Add onions and syrup to parsnips; cook for five minutes. Remove from heat. Transfer one-third of parsnip jam to a food processor fitted with the metal blade and puree until smooth. Add pureed parsnip back into remaining parsnips. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the squab legs: In a pot, heat vegetable oil. Season squab legs and sear on all sides until brown. Add thyme, garlic and chicken stock; braise 25 minutes. Remove from heat and let legs cool in braising liquid; remove from liquid and then remove thigh bones. Strain braising liquid through a fine-mesh sieve and return legs to liquid. Return to low heat. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the squab breasts: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a saute pan, heat vegetable oil. Season squab breasts with salt and pepper to taste. Sear breasts until golden brown. Brush with chestnut honey and place in oven. Baste frequently until squab is cooked to desired doneness. Let breasts rest in a warm place for five minutes; remove meat from bones, return to pan and set aside.

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For the salad: In a saute pan, add shallots, pinch of salt and one tablespoon of olive oil; sweat for two minutes. Add vinegar; reduce by half. Let cool. Whisk in remaining oil until incorporated. Set aside. Toss together watercress, almonds, haricots vert and vinaigrette. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

To finish: Remove breasts from saute pan. Whisk squab legs' braising liquid into squab breasts' caramelized chestnut honey. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

To serve: Arrange haricots vert salad and a breast on a plate. Add parsnip jam and a squab leg. Sprinkle with cracked black pepper. Garnish with parsnip chips and micro amaranth.

ingredients

For the parsnip jam:

2 cups Riesling wine
1/2 cup honey
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1/2 cinnamon stick
Zest and juice of 2 oranges
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 onion, peeled and chopped
5 parsnips, peeled and chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

For the squab legs:

1 tablespoon vegetable oil
6 squab legs
Salt and pepper to taste
4 sprigs thyme
3 cloves garlic, roasted
3 cups chicken stock

For the squab breasts:

1 tablespoon vegetable oil
6 squab breasts, bone in
Salt and pepper to taste
3 tablespoons chestnut honey

For the salad:

2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
1/2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup sherry vinegar
Salt and pepper to taste
1 bunch watercress, trimmed
1/2 cup almond slivers, toasted
12 ounces haricots vert, blanched

For the garnish:

Cracked black pepper
Parsnip chips
Micro amaranth

RELATED ARTICLE: Brioche-Crusted Sole with Shrimp Dumplings (Serves 6)

Charlie PALMER

Chablis Blanchot

Domaine Francois et Jean-Marie Raveneau

Burgundy, France 2000

directions

For the sole: Cut parchment paper into six 6-inch squares. Brush parchment squares with butter and season with salt and white pepper to taste. Place fillets on buttered side of square and roll. Using plastic wrap, roll in a tight bundle and tie each end. (Sole bundles should resemble sausages.) Set aside, keeping chilled.

For the bouillabaisse sauce: In a pot, heat vegetable oil. Add fish bones, shrimp shells, lobster shells, onions, carrots, celery and garlic with large pinch of salt; cook for five minutes. Add tomato paste; stir and cook for five minutes. Add white wine, Pernod[R], saffron and herbs; reduce to one-third. Add water, simmering for 45 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing liquid out of solids. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the couscous cakes: In a saute pan, heat butter. Add carrots, celery and onions; cook until just tender. Add chicken stock and season to taste with salt and pepper; bring to a boil. Put couscous in a medium bowl, pour boiling stock over couscous. Cover with plastic wrap and let sit 10 minutes or until cool. Add eggs and fines herbs, mixing well. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Press couscous into six 2 1/2-inch rings molds. Set aside in refrigerator.

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For the shrimp dumplings: In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, puree shrimp until finely chopped and sticky. Add cream and puree until mixed well. Transfer shrimp puree to a bowl; fold in lemon zest and chives. Season with salt to taste. Bring a large pot of salted water to a simmer. Form shrimp puree into quenelles using two spoons. Poach shrimp dumplings to desired doneness and set aside keeping covered.

For the brioche crust: Combine brioche crumbs and butter. On a flat surface, place brioche butter between two pieces of parchment paper and press with a rolling pin to 1/4-inch thickness. Place in refrigerator to chill. Cut into strips large enough to cover each sole. Set aside in refrigerator.

To finish: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a saute pan, add vegetable oil. Add couscous cakes; cook until brown on each side. Transfer to oven to heat through. In a saute pan, heat butter and chicken stock. Add leeks and shrimp dumplings; heat and season with salt and pepper to taste. Steam sole to desired doneness and remove plastic wrapping. Top with brioche crust and place under salamander until golden brown. For the bouillabaisse sauce, whisk in cold butter. Froth sauce lightly using a hand-held immersion blender.

To serve: Place brioche-crusted sole and couscous cake on plate. Spoon leeks and shrimp dumplings over couscous cake. Ladle sauce around dish, over couscous cake, and dumplings; garnish with chervil sprigs.

ingredients

For the sole:

6 6-ounce sole fillets
3 tablespoons butter, softened
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the bouillabaisse sauce:

3 tablespoons vegetable oil
8 ounces fish bones, roughly chopped
4 ounces shrimp shells
3 lobster shells, crushed
1 cup peeled and roughly chopped onion
1/2 cup peeled and roughly chopped carrot
1/2 cup roughly chopped celery
3 cloves garlic
3 tablespoons tomato paste
1 cup white wine
1/2 cup Pernod[R]
Pinch of saffron
3 sprigs thyme
2 parsley stems
1 bay leaf
2 quarts water
Salt and pepper to taste
4 ounces butter, cubed and chilled

For the couscous cakes:

2 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup peeled and finely chopped carrot
1/4 cup finely chopped celery
1/4 cup peeled and finely chopped onion
4 cups chicken stock
2 cups couscous
4 eggs, beaten
2 tablespoons fines herbs
Salt and pepper to taste
2 tablespoons vegetable oil

For the shrimp dumplings:

1 1/2 pounds shrimp, peeled and deveined
1/3 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon lemon zest, blanched in simple syrup
3 tablespoons finely chopped chives
Salt to taste
1 tablespoon butter
1/3 cup chicken stock
3 cups sliced leeks, blanched

For the brioche crust:

2 1/2 cups dried brioche crumbs
1 cup butter, softened

For the garnish:

Chervil sprigs

RELATED ARTICLE: Chorizo-Stuffed Brook Trout (Serves 6)

Charlie PALMER

Alsace Riesling Brand

Domaine Albert Boxler

Alsace, France 1999

directions

For the trout: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lay trout fillets on a sheet pan; season with salt to taste and coriander. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for one hour. Cut chorizo lengthwise into 1/8-inch slices. Place chorizo slices on a sheet pan and bake until just brown. Remove from oven and cool. Discard plastic wrap. Lay chorizo slices evenly on six trout fillets. Top chorizo with remaining fillets; placing thick part of fillet over thin part to achieve an even thickness. Refrigerate.

For the polenta fries: In a pot, combine chicken stock and milk. Season with salt and pepper; bring to a boil. Whisk in polenta; cook for 10 minutes. Stir in parmesan. Pour polenta onto a sheet pan to 1-inch thickness. Chill in refrigerator. Cut polenta into 18 1X1X4-inch sticks and set aside.

For the cipollini onions: In a pot combine all ingredients. Simmer until onions are tender and set aside to cool. Reheat before serving.

For the roasted tomato coulis: In a pot, heat two tablespoons of olive oil. Add garlic; cook to a light golden brown. Add onions and season with salt and pepper to taste; cook for four minutes. Add white wine; reduce by two-thirds. Add tomatoes and basil; cook over low heat for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring occasionally. Puree tomatoes in a food mill and season with salt and pepper to taste. Whisk in remaining olive oil. Set aside, keeping warm.

To finish the dish: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Preheat deep-fryer to 350 degrees. Place trout and chorizo stacks on a sheet pan. Brush with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Bake for five to six minutes. Dust polenta fries with Wondra[R]. Fry until crisp and golden brown. Drain on paper towels and season with salt.

To serve: Arrange polenta fries on a plate; spoon tomato coulis next to fries. Place trout on polenta fries and top with cipollini onions. Garnish with arugula and drizzle with olive oil.

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ingredients

For the trout:

12 brook trout fillets, trimmed
Kosher salt to taste
2 teaspoons toasted and ground coriander
3 fresh chorizo sausages
Olive oil as needed

For the polenta fries:

3 cups chicken stock
2 1/2 cups milk
Salt and pepper to taste
3 cups polenta
4 ounces parmesan
Wondra[R] flour as needed

For the cipollini onions:

18 cipollini onions, peeled
2 teaspoons saffron
4 cups chicken stock
4 sprigs thyme
Salt and pepper to taste

For the roasted tomato coulis:

4 tablespoons olive oil
3 cloves garlic
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
1/2 cup white wine
14 Italian plum tomatoes, crushed
3 sprigs basil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Olive oil
Baby arugula

RELATED ARTICLE: Charred Venison Carpaccio with Artichokes (Serves 6)

Charlie PALMER

Ried Loibenberg Gruner Veltliner Smaragd

Weingut Knoll

Loibner Loibenberg, Austria 2000

directions

For the semi-dried tomatoes: Preheat oven to 180 degrees. Toss tomatoes in olive oil and thyme. Spread out on a sheet pan, dry in oven for several hours until tomatoes resemble plump raisins and set aside.

For the venison: Bring a skillet to high heat. Rub venison with vegetable oil and season heavily with salt and pepper. Char venison on all sides. Remove from skillet and refrigerate until chilled. Slice loin into 1/8-inch rounds. Place rounds between two pieces of oiled plastic wrap and pound lightly. Set aside, keeping chilled.

For the artichokes: In a pot, heat olive oil. Add onions, carrots, celery, garlic, lemon zest and fennel seeds; sweat for three minutes. Add artichoke hearts, white wine, vinegar, water and basil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover with parchment paper and simmer for 20 minutes until artichokes are just tender. Remove from heat and cool. Remove artichokes from cooking liquid, cut in half and remove chokes. Slice into thin wedges. Strain cooking liquid through a fine-mesh sieve over sliced artichokes and set aside.

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For the tapenade crisps: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Brush one side of baguette slices with olive oil and spread a thin layer of tapenade. Place on a sheet pan and bake until golden brown and crisp; set aside.

To finish: In a bowl, combine braised artichokes, semi-dried tomatoes, upland cress, olive slivers and raw artichoke slices. Season with salt and pepper; drizzle with olive oil, and toss.

To serve: Arrange venison slices on a plate. Sprinkle with fleur de sel and cracked pepper. Top with salad and garnish with tapenade crisps.

ingredients

For the semi-dried tomatoes:

30 cherry tomatoes, peeled
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon stemmed thyme

For the venison:

24 ounces venison loin
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the artichokes:

1/4 cup olive oil
3/4 cup peeled and roughly chopped onion
1/2 cup peeled and roughly chopped carrot
1/2 cup roughly chopped celery
3 cloves garlic, peeled
Zest of 1 lemon
2 teaspoons fennel seeds, toasted
3 artichoke hearts
2 cups white wine
1/2 cup white wine vinegar
1 cup water
4 sprigs basil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the tapenade crisps:

18 1/4-inch baguette slices
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup black olive tapenade

For the garnish:

Upland cress
Black olive slivers
Raw artichoke hearts, thinly sliced
Extra virgin olive oil
Fleur de sel
Cracked black pepper

RELATED ARTICLE: Variations on Porcini Soup (Serves 8)

Charlie PALMER

Volnay

Domaine Michel Lafarge

Burgundy, France 1996

directions

For the smoked duck: Combine water, salt, sugar and sel rose; mix until sugar and salt is dissolved. Add duck breast; soak overnight. Remove from brine and pat dry. Place in refrigerator, uncovered, for one hour. Smoke with wood chips for about 20 minutes. Set aside to rest.

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For the clear broth: In a pot, heat oil. Add porcini and button mushrooms; cook until lightly golden brown. Add onions; cook until well caramelized. Deglaze with Madeira; reduce to one-third. Add thyme, parsley, bay leaf and duck stock; simmer for 15 minutes. Place stock into refrigerator to cool. In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, combine chicken and egg whites; puree until smooth. Transfer chicken puree to a medium bowl, add onions, carrots, celery, tomatoes and lemon juice; mix well. Add chicken puree to cooled duck stock and gently stir over medium heat until a raft forms on surface. Using a wooden spoon, gently make a hole in the surface of raft; maintaining a low simmer for 20 minutes; remove from heat. Using a ladle, transfer broth to a cheesecloth-lined fine-mesh sieve. Discard raft, season consomme with salt to taste and set aside, keeping warm.

For the dumplings: In a saute pan, heat oil. Add onions and caramelize. Add duck confit and thyme. Season with salt and white pepper to taste. Let cool. Brush edges of pasta squares with egg wash and place small amount of confit filling in center of square. Fold to form a triangle, pressing edges to seal. Gently fold two base points under filling. Set aside on a heavily-floured sheet pan.

For the potage: In a heavy-bottomed pot, render bacon. Add porcinis; saute until golden brown. Add shallots and sweat for one minute. Deglaze with white wine and reduce to almost dry. Add chicken stock and rosemary, simmering for 20 minutes. Discard rosemary. Transfer soup to a blender and puree until smooth. Season with salt and pepper and strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the veloute: In a pot, heat three table-spoons of butter. Add onions; sweat for five minutes. Add porcinis and salt and pepper to taste and cook for four minutes. Add cream and simmer for 10 minutes. Add stock; simmering for 10 minutes. Transfer soup to a blender and puree until smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside, keeping warm. In a saute pan, add remaining butter. Season scallops with salt to taste. Add scallops and porcinis; saute until golden brown. Cut scallops into quarters.

To finish clear broth: In a saute pan, sear duck breast skin-side down; render fat until skin is crispy. Let breast rest for five minutes and slice thinly. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil, add dumplings and cook for 2 1/2 minutes or until done. Simmer broth and carrots until heated through.

To serve: Pour clear broth with two pieces of carrot into a bowl. Place three dumplings into broth and top with a slices of duck breast. Pour potage into a bowl. Garnish with porcini slices, olive oil and rosemary leaves. Pour veloute into a bowl. Add porcinis and scallop pieces. Garnish with milk foam and thyme.

ingredients

For the smoked duck:

5 cups water
2 tablespoons salt
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 teaspoon sel rose*
1 Mulard duck breast
Hickory or fruit wood chips

For the clear broth:

1 tablespoon vegetable oil
8 ounces porcini mushrooms, roughly chopped
8 ounces button mushrooms, roughly chopped
1 onion, peeled and roughly chopped
1 cup Madeira
2 sprigs thyme
2 parsley stems
1 bay leaf
2 1/2 quarts duck stock
5 ounces ground chicken
3 egg whites, beaten
1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 small carrot, peeled and finely chopped
1 stalk celery, finely chopped
1 small tomato, finely chopped
2 drops of lemon juice
Salt to taste

For the dumplings:

2 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 onions, peeled and finely chopped
1 cup shredded duck confit
1 tablespoon thyme leaves
Salt and white pepper to taste
24 2X2-inch pasta squares
Egg wash as needed

For the garnish:

8 baby carrots, blanched and halved

For the potage:

3 ounces bacon, roughly chopped
1 pound porcini mushrooms, roughly chopped
3 tablespoons peeled and finely chopped shallots
1/2 cup white wine
7 cups chicken stock
1/2 sprig rosemary
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

3 porcini mushrooms, thinly sliced
Olive oil
Rosemary leaves

For the veloute:

5 tablespoons butter
1 onion, peeled and roughly chopped
8 ounces porcini mushrooms
3 cups heavy cream
5 cups chicken stock
16 porcini mushrooms, halved
8 scallops
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Milk foam
Thyme leaves

*Sel rose, literally "pink salt", is often used to maintain the natural pink color in charcuterie preparations. Available through De Choix Specialty Foods at [phone].

RELATED ARTICLE: Bittersweet Chocolate and Caramel Torte (Serves 6)

Charlie PALMER

Maury

Mas Amiel

Languedoc-Rousillon, France NV

directions

For the chocolate cake:

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. In bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle, add eggs; beating until combined. Add almond flour, powdered sugar and cocoa; beat until smooth. In a separate bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk, and egg whites and lemon juice; whip to soft peaks. Add superfine sugar and whisk to stiff peaks. Mix melted butter into flour mixture. Fold egg whites into flour mixture and then fold in all-purpose flour; mixing until just incorporated. Spread batter onto a Silpat-lined sheet pan to 1/4-inch thickness. Bake for six minutes, rotate and bake an additional three minutes, remove from oven and cool on a wire rack. Cut out 12 2-inch circles with a cutter and set aside.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

For the caramel mousse: Caramelize 3/4 cup of sugar. In a pot, melt half of butter into 1/4 cup cream. Remove caramelized sugar from heat, whisk in butter and cream mixture. In a double-boiler, whisk together egg yolks and remaining sugar until warm. Slowly whisk caramel sauce into yolk mixture. Dissolve gelatin into caramel sauce and mix well. Add melted chocolate and remaining butter, mixing until cool. Whip remaining cream to soft peaks. Fold whipped cream into chocolate caramel. Transfer caramel mousse into a pastry bag fitted with a plain tip. Set aside in refrigerator.

For the chocolate mousse: In a pot with a candy thermometer, combine sugar and enough water until sugar resembles wet sand; cook to 240 degrees. In a double-boiler whisk egg yolks until warm. Transfer yolks to the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk. Slowly add caramelized sugar into yolks and whisk until mixture is cool. Mix melted chocolates together. Bring 1/4 cup of cream to a boil and mix into melted chocolates. Fold yolk mixture into chocolate mixture. Whip remaining cream to medium peaks. Fold whipped cream into chocolate mixture. Transfer chocolate mousse into a pastry bag fitted with a plain tip. Set aside in refrigerator.

For the malted-vanilla ice cream: In a pot, bring milk, cream and vanilla bean to a boil. Remove from heat and let sit 10 minutes. Add malt syrup, corn syrup and sugar; mix well. Temper yolks by adding one-third hot milk mixture while whisking constantly. Whisk tempered yolks back into hot milk and place over medium heat, stirring constantly until mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Set aside in an ice water bath until chilled. Pour in an ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer.

For the chocolate ganache: In a pot, heat cream and butter. Stir cream mixture into melted chocolate and set aside.

To assemble the torte: Cut sheets of acetate into 12 3X8-inch strips. Line six 2 1/2-inch diameter by 3-inch tall ring molds with six strips of acetate. Place a round of chocolate cake in bottom of each mold. Pipe a layer of chocolate mousse over chocolate cake then sprinkle feuilletine. Pipe a layer of caramel mousse then sprinkle with feuilletine. Fill mold with another layer of chocolate mousse to 1/4-inch from top then top with another chocolate cake round. Refrigerate for one hour. Remove molds and acetate strips. Brush tempered chocolate onto remaining acetate strips and wrap around tortes, chocolate side facing torte. Place in refrigerator until strips of chocolate set. Pour ganache over tops of tortes. Refrigerate for 15 minutes and remove acetate.

For the creme fraiche foam: In a pot, bring milk, cream and sugar to a boil. Stir in creme fraiche. Temper yolks by adding one-third hot milk mixture while whisking constantly. Whisk tempered yolks back into hot milk and place over medium heat, stirring constantly until mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Set aside in an ice water bath until chilled. Transfer mixture to a whipped cream dispenser, charge with gas and refrigerate.

For the chocolate tuile: Prehcat oven to 400 degrees. Sift flour and cocoa powder together. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle, combine butter and confectioner's sugar; beat until light and fluffy. Add egg white and beat until incorporated. Add flour mixture; mix until incorporated. On a Silpat-lined sheet, thinly spread batter over a stencil. Bake for four minutes. Set aside to cool.

For the hot chocolate: In a pot, combine milk, cocoa, vanilla bean, cinnamon stick, vanilla extract, ground cinnamon, malt syrup and sea salt; simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and let sit for 15 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Transfer chocolate mixture in a blender; add chopped chocolate and puree until smooth. Set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Decorate plate with chocolate and caramel sauces. Add torte; top with whipped cream, a sugar stick and chocolate tuile. Scoop malted-vanilla ice cream next to torte. Pour hot chocolate in a small glass and top with creme fraiche cream. Garnish with grated chocolate.

ingredients

For the chocolate cake:

10 eggs
10 1/4 ounces almond flour, sifted
12 1/4 ounces powdered sugar, sifted
3 1/2 ounces cocoa powder, sifted
9 ounces egg whites
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 1/4 ounces superfine sugar
4 ounces butter, melted
2 1/2 ounces all-purpose flour

For the caramel mousse:

5 3/4 ounces granulated sugar
2 ounces butter, softened
6 ounces heavy cream
3 egg yolks
1 sheet gelatin, softened
1 ounce milk chocolate, melted

For the chocolate mousse:

2 1/2 ounces granulated sugar
Water as needed
6 egg yolks
2 ounces 61% chocolate, chopped and melted
4 ounces milk chocolate, chopped and melted
1 1/4 ounces unsweetened chocolate, chopped and melted
7 ounces heavy cream

For the malted-vanilla ice cream:

4 ounces milk
11 ounces heavy cream
1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped
3 ounces malt syrup
1 1/2 ounces corn syrup
1 1/2 ounces granulated sugar
4 egg yolks, beaten

For the chocolate ganache:

8 ounces 61% chocolate, melted
5 ounces heavy cream
1 ounce butter

For the torte:

2 1/2 ounces tempered chocolate
1/2 cup feuilletine flakes

For the creme fraiche foam:

4 ounces milk
5 ounces heavy cream
10 ounces granulated sugar
3 ounces creme fraiche
4 egg yolks, beaten

For the chocolate tuile:

1 ounce all-purpose flour
1/4 ounce cocoa powder
1 ounce butter, softened
1 ounce confectioner's sugar
1 egg white, room temperature

For the hot chocolate:

12 ounces milk
1/2 ounce cocoa powder
1/4 vanilla bean, split and scraped
1 stick cinnamon
2 drops vanilla extract
Pinch of ground cinnamon
4 ounces malt syrup
Pinch of sea salt
1 ounce 61% chocolate, chopped

For the garnish:

Bittersweet chocolate sauce
Caramel sauce
Whipped cream
Sugar sticks
Grated chocolate

RELATED ARTICLE: A Tasting of Apples (Serves 6)

Charlie PALMER

Beerenauslese

Alios Kracher

Neasiedlersee, Austria 2000

directions

For the tarte tatin; Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a pot, add sugar and enough water until sugar resembles wet sand; caramelize. Remove pot from heat, whisk in vinegar and return to heat; cooking for one minute. Remove from heat and whisk in butter and black pepper. Pour caramel into six 4-ounce disposable aluminum tins. Trim apple halves to fit into tins. Place apple pieces into tins and top with puff pastry rounds. Bake for three minutes; reduce temperature to 325 degrees and bake for another 12 to 15 minutes until apple is tender and puff pastry is golden brown. Cool to room temperature.

For the pots de creme: Preheat oven to 250 degrees. In a pot, heat milk with cinnamon stick. Over a low flame, add mascarpone and cream cheese and whisk until dissolved. Add sugar and apple cider stirring until sugar is dissolved. Chill milk mixture over an ice water bath. Whisk in yolks and strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Pour mixture into six 3-ounce ramekins; bake in a hot water bath until set. Set aside to cool.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

For the creme fraiche ice cream cones: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a pot, bring cream and milk to a boil. Add creme fraiche and sugar. Temper yolks by adding one-third hot cream mixture, whisking constantly. Whisk tempered yolks back into hot cream and place over medium heat, stirring constantly until mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Set aside in an ice water bath until chilled. Pour in an ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer. Layer six sheets of phyllo dough, brushed with clarified butter, and cut into six 3X2 1/2-inch fan-shaped pieces. Wrap each piece around a metal cone and bake until crisp; set aside to cool.

For the maple ice cream: In a pot, bring milk and cream to a boil. Add maple syrup and sugar; mix well. Temper yolks by adding one-third hot milk mixture, whisking constantly. Whisk tempered yolks back into hot milk and place over medium heat, stirring constantly until mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Set aside in an ice water bath until chilled. Pour in an ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer.

For the Granny Smith sorbet: Mix apple puree, lemon juice, corn syrup, simple syrup and salt. Pour in an ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer.

For the apple tuile: Preheat oven to 300 degrees. In a bowl, combine butter and honey. In a separate bowl, combine flour and sugar. In alternating batches, add egg white and flour mixture to butter mixture; mixing until smooth. Using a stencil to create desired shape, spread a thin layer of batter onto a Silpat-lined sheet pan. Bake until golden brown. Set aside to cool.

For the Isomalt[R] tuile: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Sprinkle Isomalt evenly onto a Silpat-lined sheet pan. Bake 15 to 20 minutes. Remove and cool. Break into desired shapes and set aside.

For the apple tempura: In a bowl, combine egg yolk and club soda. Add flour, almond flour and powdered sugar; mix gently to combine; refrigerate. Heat cider, sugar, cinnamon and vanilla bean. Remove from heat and let stand for 10 minutes. Return to low heat; add apple and poach until tender. Remove from heat and let apples cool in cider. Preheat deep-fryer to 350 degrees. Remove apple sticks from liquid and drain. Dip into tempura batter and fry until lightly golden. Drain on a paper towel-lined tray and serve immediately.

To assemble the dish: Coat tops of pots de creme with granulated sugar and caramelize with a torch. Scoop creme fraiche ice cream in cones and stick into center of pots de cremes. Gently warm bottom of tarte tatin and turn out onto serving plate.

To serve: Pour caramel sauce remaining in tin over tarte tatin. Arrange pots de creme granished with Isomalt tuile, apple tempura, maple ice cream and Granny Smith sorbet on plate. Garnish sorbet with apple slices. Garnish maple ice cream with apple tuile.

Note: Creme fraiche ice cream recipe yields approximately one quart.

ingredients

For the tarte tatin:

1 cup granulated sugar
Water as needed
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
3 tablespoons butter, cold
1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
3 Golden Delicious apples, peeled, cored and halved cross-wise
6 3-inch puff pastry rounds, frozen

For the pots de creme:

1 cup milk
1 stick cinnamon
1/2 cup Galbani[R] mascarpone*
1/2 cup cream cheese
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/3 cup apple cider
4 egg yolks
Granulated sugar as needed

For the creme fraiche ice cream cones:

1 1/4 cups heavy cream
1 cup milk
3/4 cup creme fraiche
3/4 cup granulated sugar
6 egg yolks
Phyllo dough as needed
Clarified butter as needed

For the maple ice cream:

1 cup milk
2 cups heavy cream
1 cup maple syrup
1/4 cup granulated sugar
7 egg yolks

For the Granny Smith sorbet:

1 1/2 cups Granny Smith apple puree
2 tablespoons lemon juice
3/4 cup corn syrup
1/2 cup simple syrup
Pinch of salt

For the apple tuile:

1/4 cup butter, softened
2 tablespoons honey
2/3 cup all-purpose flour, sifted
1/4 cup confectioner's sugar, sifted
1 egg white

For the Isomalt[R] tuile:

1/2 cup Isomalt[R] crystals**

For the apple tempura:

1 egg yolk
1 cup cold soda water
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup almond flour
2 tablespoons powdered sugar
3 cups apple cider
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 stick cinnamon
1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped
1 Granny Smith apple, peeled and cut into 1/2 X 1/2 X 2-inch sticks

For the garnish:

Granny Smith apple slices

* Use of other brands could result in fat separating from mixture while baking.

** Isomalt is a sucrose-based sugar substitute. Available through Palatinit of America at [phone].

RELATED ARTICLE: Aquavit Seafood Stew (Serves 4)

MARCUS SAMUELSSON

Chenin Blanc

Vinum Africa

Stellenbosch, South Africa 2002

directions

For the char: Mix salt, sugar and peppercorns. Rub both sides of char fillet with salt mixture. Cure in refrigerator for 24 hours. Wipe cure off and cut char fillet into four even pieces. Cover and set aside.

For the pickled tomato: In a small pot, combine rice vinegar, sugar, water, chilies and garlic and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and add tomatoes; cover. Refrigerate overnight. Remove tomatoes from brine and discard skins. Set aside.

For the flowering dill sauce: In a pot, combine mussel stock, cream and flowering dill; bring to a boil and reduce by half. Season with salt and white pepper to taste. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the seafood stew: Preheat oven to 300 degrees. In a saute pan, heat clarified butter. Add potato slices; saute until just golden brown. Place in oven, roast until tender. Remove from oven and add chanterelles; saute until golden brown. Toss with parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside, keeping warm. In a saute pan, melt half of the butter, remove from heat. Add cucumber strips and salmon roe, stirring gently. Season with salt and pepper to taste and set aside, keeping warm. In a saute pan, add remaining butter. Sear scallops until golden brown. Season with salt and pepper to taste and set aside, keeping warm. Warm lobster tails in oven. Remove lobster tails from shells and cut in half. Set aside, keeping warm. Slice seared tuna loin into 12 even slices.

To serve: Arrange potato and chanterelles on plate and top with a scallop. Lay lobster tail next to scallop. Place pickled tomato in center of dish and garnish with a sprinkling of sea salt. Arrange three slices of tuna on other side of tomato, garnishing with chopped dill. Place cucumber and salmon roe beside tuna and top with char. Sprinkle with sea salt. Pour flowering dill sauce over seafood tableside.

For the char:

1 tablespoon salt
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
5 white peppercorns, crushed
1 12-ounce arctic char fillet, skinless

For the pickled tomato:

1/2 cup rice vinegar
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup water
2 bird chilies
1 clove garlic, peeled and sliced
4 small vine tomatoes

For the flowering dill sauce:

1 1/2 pints mussel stock
1 1/2 pints heavy cream
2 ounces flowering dill*
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the seafood stew:

1 tablespoon clarified butter
4 fingerling potatoes, sliced 1/2-inch thick
1 cup chanterelles, trimmed
1 tablespoon stemmed and finely chopped parsley
2 tablespoons butter
1 small cucumber, halved, seeded and cut into thin strips
4 ounces salmon roe
4 sea scallops
2 Iobster tails, grilled
1 12-ounce tuna Ioin, cut into a 12X2X2-inch piece and seared rare
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Dill, finely chopped
Sea salt

*Flowering dill is available seasonally through Lloyd Harbor Greens at [phone].

RELATED ARTICLE: Heirloom Tomato and Pickled Calf's Tongue Salad (Serves 4)

MARCUS SAMUELSSON

Fume Blanc

Grgich Hills

Napa Valley, CA 2001

directions

For the pickled calf's tongue: In a pot, combine vinegar, sugar, water, allspice, cinnamon, ginger and peppercorns; bring to a boil. Add tongue; simmer for three to four hours or until tender. Add more water as needed during cooking process. Remove tongue from liquid and remove skin. Return peeled tongue to cooking liquid and cool. Finely dice tongue and set aside.

For the salad: Place skewered shrimp in a dish and add boiling shrimp stock. Transfer to refrigerator to cool. Remove skewers from shrimp. On serving plates, arrange tomato slices in rectangles. Season with sea salt, pepper and sugar to taste. Lay three sardine fillets across each tomato rectangle and set aside.

For the dressing: In a bowl, combine mustard, creme fraiche and vinegar. Add lemon olive oil, whisking to incorporate. Season with salt to taste and set aside.

To serve: Spoon two dollops of dressing between sardines and top each with a prawn. Sprinkle with diced tongue. Drizzle with lemon juice and garnish with Thai basil, mache and dill sprigs.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the pickled calf's tongue:

1 1/2 cups 10% spirit vinegar*
3 cups granulated sugar
4 1/2 cups water
6 allspice berries
1 cinnamon stick
1-inch piece gingerroot, peeled and sliced
10 black peppercorns
1 calf's tongue

For the salad:

8 spot prawns, peeled and skewered head to tail
1 cup shrimp stock, boiling
4 heirloom tomatoes, thinly sliced
Maldon[R] sea salt and pepper to taste
Granulated sugar to taste
12 sardine fillets

For the dressing:

2 tablespoons whole grain Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons creme fraiche
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
2 tablespoons lemon olive oil
Salt to taste

For the garnish:

Lemon juice
Micro Thai basil
Mache
Dill sprigs

* Available through Haram Christensen at [phone].

RELATED ARTICLE: Lobster Roll with Pistachio-Yogurt Sauce (Serves 4)

MARCUS SAMUELSSON

Chardonnay

Acacia Winery

Carneros, CA 2002

directions

For the marinated salmon roe: Combine mirin, yuzu and soy sauce. Add salmon roe and marinate in the refrigerator. After three days, strain roe and set aside.

For the lobster roll: In a medium bowl, combine mayonnaise, lime juice and mint. Add lobster meat and shiitakes; mix. Season with salt, pepper, sugar and olive oil to taste; mix well and set aside. Lay two 10-inch pieces of plastic wrap on a flat surface. On each sheet, arrange tomato slices in rectangles, the tomatoes overlapping one another. Top with arugula leaves. Spoon lobster mixture across the bottom of the tomatoes. Using the lower edge of plastic wrap, roll lobster as tightly as possible. Cover and place in refrigerator for up to six hours. Trim ends of each lobster roll and cut in half. Remove plastic before serving.

For the pistachio-yogurt sauce: In a bowl, combine all ingredients; mix well.

To serve: Spread yogurt sauce in a stripe on plate. Spoon salmon roe on the yogurt sauce and garnish with micro arugula. Place lobster roll next to yogurt sauce and garnish with pistachios.

ingredients

For the marinated salmon roe:

2 tablespoons mirin
1 tablespoon yuzu juice
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 ounces salmon roe

For the lobster rolls:

1 tablespoon mayonnaise
2 tablespoons lime juice
1 tablespoon stemmed and finely chopped mint
2 cups cooked lobster meat, cut into bite-size pieces
2 tablespoons roasted and roughly chopped shiitake mushrooms
Sugar to taste
Olive oil
2 large yellow tomatoes, thinly sliced
8 large arugula leaves
Salt and pepper to taste

For the pistachio-yogurt sauce:

1/2 cup Lebanese yogurt
1 tablespoon simple syrup
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon lemon zest
1 tablespoon unsweetened pistachio paste

For the garnish:

Pistachios, chopped
Micro arugula

Note: Chef Samuelsson marinates the salmon roe for three days.

RELATED ARTICLE: Kobe Beef Cannelloni (Serves 4)

MARCUS SAMUELSSON

Calera Selleck Pinot Noir

Calera Wine Company

Mt. Harlan, CA 1997

directions

For the broth: In a pot, add vegetable oil. Add carrots, gingerroot, lemongrass, shallots and celery root; sweat until shallots are translucent. Deglaze with mirin and sake; reduce by half. Add veal stock, mushrooms and kaffir lime leaves; simmer 30 minutes. Remove from heat. Add konbu, rice vinegar and hondashi. Add green tea; steep for four minutes and remove tea. Let broth sit for four hours. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Return to low heat and season with salt to taste and set aside, keeping warm.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

For the kobe beef cannelloni: In a pot, add butter and shallots; saute until translucent. Add milk, cream, potatoes and taro root; cook for 30 minutes until very soft. Strain potatoes and taro root, reserving cooking liquid. Puree in a food mill, adding a small amount of reserved cooking liquid to loosen puree. Season with salt and white pepper to taste and add black truffles. Set aside to cool. Using an electric slicer, slice strip loin thinly, Lay three overlapping slices of beef on a piece of parchment paper and brush with olive oil. Spoon puree across beef slices and roll. Repeat this procedure three more times. Set aside.

For the dressing: In a small pot, heat 1/2 tablespoon grapeseed oil. Add shallots and saute until translucent. Deglaze with port and truffle juice; reduce by three-fourths. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and cool. Add remaining ingredients and whisk until incorporated. Season with salt and pepper to taste and set aside.

For the salad: Combine all ingredients with dressing and season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

To serve: Place kobe beef cannelloni in center of bowl. Top with salad and garnish with grated horseradish. Pour hot broth in bowl around ravioli.

ingredients

For the broth:

1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 small carrot, peeled and roughly chopped
1-inch piece gingerroot, peeled and thinly sliced
2 stalks lemongrass, crushed and thinly sliced
1 shallot, peeled and thinly sliced
1/2 small celery root, peeled and roughly chopped
1/2 cup mirin
1/2 cup sake
4 cups white veal stock
2 cups dried shiitake mushrooms
3 kaffir lime leaves
2 sheets konbu*
3 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 tablespoons hondashi**
2 tablespoons loose green tea, in tea strainer
Salt to taste

For the kobe beef cannelloni:

1 teaspoon butter
1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped
2 cups milk
2 cups heavy cream
2 large Yukon potatoes, peeled and cubed
1 medium taro root, peeled and cubed
1 small black truffle, finely chopped
Salt and white pepper to taste
10 ounces Kobe beef strip Ioin, trimmed, cleaned and frozen
Olive oil for brushing

For the dressing:

2 1/2 tablespoons grapeseed oil
1 shallot, peeled and thinly sliced
2 tablespoons white port
1/2 cup truffle juice
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
1 teaspoon black truffle oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the salad:

8 medium hon shimeji mushrooms, thinly sliced***
1 heart of palm, julienned
1/2 cup julienned green papaya
1/2 tablespoon stemmed and finely chopped tarragon
1/2 tablespoon stemmed and finely chopped mint
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Grated fresh horseradish

* A dried seaweed frequently used in Japanese cuisine. Available in Asian markets.

** A Japanese powdered fish stock.

Available in Asian markets.

*** Available in Asian markets.

RELATED ARTICLE: Konbu-Cured Duck with Kasha (Serves 4)

MARCUS SAMUELSSON

Riesling Spatlese

Weingut Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany 2002

directions

For the konbu-cured duck: Combine konbu, water and salt; mix until salt is dissolved. Add duck breasts; cure for six hours in refrigerator. Remove breasts and wrap in soaked konbu sheets. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap, tying ends, and let rest for six hours in refrigerator.

For the coconut-beet sauce: Place lemongrass, galangal, star anise, cinnamon and chili in a sachet. In a pot, combine sachet, beets, stock and coconut milk; simmer until beets are tender. Discard spice bag. Transfer beet mixture to a blender and puree until smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a pot; reduce over low heat to a sauce consistency. Season with salt to taste and set aside, keeping warm.

For the kasha: In a saute pan, heat butter. Add shallots; saute until translucent. In a small bowl, mix egg white and kasha. Add kasha mixture to saute pan; cook while stirring until grains are dry and separated. Add stock and salt to taste. Cover pan; simmer for 10 minutes until liquid is absorbed. Add ketjap manis and water chestnuts; cook for two minutes. Season with pepper to taste. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the nut salad: Combine all ingredients and season with salt to taste.

To finish the konbu-cured duck: In a pot of barely simmering water, poach wrapped duck breasts to an internal temperature of 125 degrees. Remove from water and let rest for 10 minutes. Remove plastic wrap. In a hot saute pan, sear duck breasts until skin is crisp. Set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Spoon kasha on plate. Cut duck breasts into eight slices and arrange on top of kasha. Garnish with nut salad and Thai basil. Ladle coconut-beet sauce onto plate.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the konbu-cured duck:

4 sheets konbu*
1 quart water
1/2 cup salt
4 female Muscovy duck breasts, deboned

For the coconut-beet sauce:

2 stalks lemongrass, crushed and sliced
1-inch piece galangal, peeled and sliced**
1 star anise
1 cinnamon stick
1 bird chili
1 large red beet, peeled and roughly chopped
1 cup duck stock
2 1/2 cups coconut milk
Salt to taste

For the kasha:

2 teaspoons butter
2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
1 egg white, beaten
1 cup kasha
2 cups duck stock, boiling
2 tablespoons ketjap manis***
6 water chestnuts, peeled and diced
Salt and pepper to taste

For the nut salad:

1 cup chopped mixed nuts
1 shallot, peeled and thinly sliced
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons rice vinegar
2 bird chilis, seeded and finely chopped
Salt to taste

For the garnish:

Micro Thai basil

* A dried seaweed frequently used in Japanese cuisine. Available in Asian markets.

** A rhizome similar to gingerroot. Available in Asian markets.

*** An Indonesian condiment similar to soy sauce. Available in Asian markets.

RELATED ARTICLE: Apple-Fennel Cream with Apple Sorbet (Serves 10)

MARCUS SAMUELSSON

Calvados

Domaine de Semainville

Calvados, France NV

directions

For the apple sorbet:

Combine all ingredients and strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Pour in an ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer.

For the apple-fennel cream: In a pot, combine fennel seeds, milk and cream; bring to a boil. Temper the egg yolks, by adding one-third hot milk mixture while whisking constantly. Whisk tempered yolk mixture back into hot milk mixture, stirring constantly until mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. In a medium bowl, combine white chocolate, butter, sambuca and gelatin. Strain milk mixture through a fine-mesh sieve over bowl with chocolate mixture. Stir until incorporated. Set aside to cool. Transfer mixture to a piping bag fitted with a plain tip and set aside in refrigerator.

For the basil jelly: In a blender, combine basil, two cups of simple syrup and lime juice; puree until smooth. In a small pot, heat remaining simple syrup. Remove from heat, add gelatin and stir until dissolved. Cool and mix into basil syrup. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Refrigerate; when set, cut jelly into desired shapes.

For the poached apples: In a pot, combine apples, star anise and apple juice; bring to a boil. Immediately remove apples and cool in refrigerator.

For the candied fennel: In a pot, combine water, sugar and glucose; bring to a boil. Add fennel; cook until transparent and soft. Drain fennel and set aside.

For the nougatine-fennel tuile: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a pot, combine glucose and fondant; bring to a boil. Cook until golden brown. Remove pot from heat and whisk in butter. Pour sugar mixture onto a sheet pan; let cool and harden. Break hardened sugar mixture into pieces and place in a food processor fitted with the metal blade; pulse to a fine powder. Sift nougatine onto a Silpat-lined sheet pan. Sprinkle with fennel seeds to taste. Bake until melted. Remove from oven and immediately cut into desired shapes. Set aside to cool.

For the apple cream: In a bowl, combine apple puree and confectioner's sugar, whisking until mixed; set aside. In a pot, bring cream to a boil then remove from heat. Add gelatin and stir until dissolved. Cool cream mixture to room temperature. Stir apple mixture into cream mixture. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve and chill in an ice water bath. Transfer apple cream to a whipped cream dispenser and charge with gas twice. Set aside, keeping chilled.

To serve: Pipe lines of apple-fennel cream on plate. Place three scoops of apple sorbet on apple-fennel cream. Place two poached apple squares between sorbet. Top poached apples with apple cream. Lay piece of tuile over top. Garnish plate with candied fennel and basil jelly.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the apple sorbet:

2 1/2 cups freshly-pressed Granny Smith apple juice
3 tablespoons lime juice
1 1/4 cups simple syrup

For the apple-fennel cream:

1/2 cup fennel seeds, toasted
1 1/2 cups milk
2 1/4 cups heavy cream
1 cup egg yolks, beaten
2 pounds white chocolate, chopped
1/2 pound butter, softened
2 tablespoons sambuca
2 sheets gelatin, softened

For the basil jelly:

1 bunch Thai basil, stemmed
2 1/2 cups simple syrup
4 tablespoon lime juice
5 sheets gelatin, softened

For the poached apples:

2 Granny Smith apples, peeled and cut into 1-inch squares
2 star anise
1 cup apple juice

For the candied fennel:

1 cup water
1 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon glucose
1 fennel bulb, trimmed and thinly shaved

For the nougatine-fennel tuile:

1 cup glucose
1 1/2 cups fondant
1 tablespoon butter
Fennel seeds to taste

For the apple cream:

2 cups apple puree
3 tablespoons confectioner's sugar
1 1/4 cups heavy cream
4 sheets gelatin, softened

RELATED ARTICLE: Beet Cake with Frozen Sour Cream Panna Cotta (Serves 10)

MARCUS SAMUELSSON

Mascat de Beaumes-de-Venise

Paul Jaboulet Aine

Rhone, France 1999

directions

For the frozen panna cotta: In a pot, bring cream, invert sugar and half the granulated sugar to a boil. Temper the egg yolks, by adding one-third hot cream mixture, whisking constantly. Whisk tempered yolks back into hot cream mixture and place over medium heat, stirring constantly until mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Remove from heat and add gelatin; stir until dissolved. Add sour cream; stir until incorporated. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Set aside in an ice water bath until chilled. Pour in an ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer.

For the beet cake: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. In a pot, bring one cup of sugar and water to a boil. Add beets and simmer over low heat until about two tablespoons of syrup remain. Transfer beets and syrup to a blender; puree for 30 seconds. Set aside to cool. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk, beat egg whites to medium peaks. Add remaining sugar; beat until shiny and firm. Fold flour into egg whites. Fold melted butter into egg white mixture. Fold pureed beets into egg white mixture. Pour batter into a piping bag fitted with a plain tip; pipe batter into 10 2 1/2-ounce rectangular cake molds. Bake in oven for 10 to 15 minutes; rotating after seven minutes. Set aside to cool.

For the spiced walnuts: Preheat oven to 200 degrees. In a pot, bring two cups water to a boil. Add walnuts; blanch for three minutes and strain. In another pot bring two cups water and two cups sugar to a boil. Add walnuts; cook for five minutes. Strain and repeat process with remaining water and sugar. Place candied walnuts on a Silpat-lined sheet pan. Bake in oven for 45 minutes or until dry. Toss warm walnuts in salt and cayenne. Set aside.

For the candied beets: In a pot, combine water, orange juice, brown sugar, sugar, vinegar and salt and bring to a boil. Add beets; simmer river low heat until just tender. Strain and set aside to cool.

For the sherry vinegar syrup: In a small pot, combine vinegar, sugar and vanilla bean and bring to a boil. Add pectin to boiling vinegar mixture, whisking continuously; boil for five minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Set aside to cool.

For the tuile: Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Blanch pepper three times in fresh water. In a bowl, combine blanched pepper and glucose; mix together. Pour in a piping bag litted with a plain tip; pipe glucose in thin lines on a Silpat-lined sheet pan. Bake for 10 minutes. Set aside to cool.

To serve: Place cake on plate and top with frozen panna cotta. Arrange candied beets and walnuts on plate. Drizzle with sherry vinegar syrup and garnish with a tuile.

ingredients

For the frozen panna cotta:

1 pint heavy cream
2 tablespoons invert sugar
2/3 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup egg yolks, beaten
4 sheets gelatin, softened
3/4 cup sour cream

For the beet cake:

2 cups granulated sugar
1 cup water
2 medium beets, peeled and finely chopped
1 cup egg whites
1/2 cup flour, sifted
1/3 cup butter, melted

For the spiced walnuts:

6 cups water
1 cup walnuts
4 cups granulated sugar
1 tablespoon salt
1/2 tablespoon cayenne pepper

For the candied beets:

1/2 cup water
1/2 cup orange juice
1/4 cup brown sugar
1 cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
1 tablespoon salt
1 large beet, peeled and cut into 1/8 X 1/8 X 1-inch sticks

For the sherry vinegar syrup:

2 cups sherry vinegar
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
1 tablespoon pectin

For the tuile:

2 tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper
1 cup glucose

RELATED ARTICLE: Chocolate Jelly with Buttermilk-Yuzu Sorbet (Serves 10)

MARCUS SAMUELSSON

Jarara Sherry

Emilio Lustau

Jerez y Manzanilla, Spain NY

directions

For the watermelon: In a bowl, combine brown sugar, salt, cinnamon and star anise; stir to mix. Add watermelon. Cure in refrigerator overnight. Remove watermelon, scraping off excess sugar, and set aside.

For the buttermilk-yuzu sorbet: Combine invert sugar and simple syrup. Stir in buttermilk and yuzu juice until incorporated. Pour in an ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Set aside in freezer.

For the chocolate mousse: In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk, add egg yolks, beating until combined. In a pot, combine sugar and water and bring to a boil. Slowly pour hot sugar water in a thin stream into egg yolks; whisking constantly until cool. Fold melted chocolate into egg yolk mixture. In a small bowl, melt gelatin sheets in hot espresso. Add espresso mixture to chocolate mixture; mixing to incorporate. Whip cream to soft peaks. Fold chocolate mixture into whipped cream. Place mousse into a pastry bag fitted with a plain tip. Chill in refrigerator for three hours.

For the chocolate jelly: In a pot, combine water, sugar and cocoa; bring to a boil. Add chocolate and gelatin; stir until dissolved. Pour jelly onto serving dishes; refrigerate until set.

For the poached pineapple: In a medium pot, combine water, sugar and saffron; bring to a boil. Reduce heat and add pineapple rounds; poach until tender. Remove pineapple from liquid and cool.

For the chocolate dentelle: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a pot, combine all ingredients. Bring to a boil, whisking until incorporated. Pour batter onto a Silpat-lined sheet pan and spread evenly into a thin layer; bake for 10 minutes. Remove from oven and cool. Break into desired shapes and set aside.

For the chocolate biscuit: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In double-boiler, melt chocolate and butter. Cool chocolate mixture to room temperature. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk, beat egg whites to medium peaks. Add sugar to egg whites, beating until shiny and firm. Add egg yolks and invert sugar to chocolate mixture, whisking until incorporated. Fold egg whites into chocolate mixture. Fold flour into chocolate mixture. Spread batter to 1/4-inch thickness on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Bake for approximately 10 minutes. Set aside to cool.

To finish chocolate mousse cake: Cut chocolate biscuit into 10 3-inch squares. Pipe one layer of chocolate mousse on top of biscuit. Place a piece of dentelle on top and pipe another layer of chocolate mousse. Top with a piece of dentelle.

To serve: Using cutters slightly larger than watermelon and pineapple rounds, cut out circles in chocolate jelly. Place watermelon and pineapple in holes. Sprinkle watermelon with cinnamon. Garnish pineapple with saffron threads. Cut out shapes for chocolate mousse cake and sorbet and arrange in chocolate jelly.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the watermelon:

1 cup brown sugar
1 tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground star anise
10 1-inch thick watermelon rounds

For the buttermilk-yuzu sorbet:

2 tablespoons invert sugar
1/4 cup simple syrup
3 cups buttermilk
1/4 cup yuzu juice

For the chocolate mousse:

4 egg yolks
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons water
1 cup chopped bittersweet chocolate, melted
3 sheets gelatin, softened
3 tablespoons espresso, hot
1 1/2 cups heavy cream

For the chocolate jelly:

2 cups water
1 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup cocoa powder
1/4 cup chopped bittersweet chocolate
9 sheets gelatin, softened

For the poached pineapple:

1 cup water
1 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon saffron
1 pineapple, peeled and cut into 10 1 1/2-inch thick rounds

For the chocolate dentelle:

1 1/4 cups granulated sugar
1/2 cup plus 3 tablespoons water
1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon chopped bittersweet chocolate
1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon butter
1/3 cup glucose
1 tablespoon cocoa powder
1 tablespoon pectin

For the chocolate biscuit:

2 1/2 ounces chopped bittersweet chocolate
2 ounces butter
2 small eggs, separated
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 tablespoon invert sugar
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, sifted

For the garnish:

Ground cinnamon
Saffron threads