Las Vegas -- a buffet all the way.

Too often, too many of us living with MS find that anxiety about accessibility and our health care overcome the lure of adventure, and we deny ourselves travel vacations. Las Vegas understands what we want, and--more important--gives us freedom from what we don't want.

There's glitz, glamour, entertainment, great food, family fun, shopping, sports, sights, and, oh yes, gambling. You can travel around the world in this one city, touring from ancient Egypt and Rome to Paris, New York, and the Caribbean--even taking a gondola ride through the canals of Venice. Sound amazing?

The truly amazing part is how accessible and affordable Las Vegas is. I worried about the heat and its effect on my energy and health. But even in the middle of June, it was no problem--the heat was, as advertised, desert-dry, and all the hotels, casinos, and attractions were air conditioned.

As soon as we landed at the airport, Las Vegas' welcoming accessibility began unfolding: the wheelchair ramp in the taxi; the barrier-free public spaces; the level walkways and free trams that connect the hotels; the well-designed guest rooms in our hotel. Since much of the city is new construction, designed to comply with the ADA guidelines, I had no difficulty maneuvering my electric cart everywhere. Add to that comfort the 24-hour-a-day availability of food, spa services, and fine hotel medical care, and it's easy to see why Las Vegas is a destination where everyone can simply relax and enjoy

What to do first? There is definitely something for everyone in Las Vegas.

Shows

Cirque du Soleil's acrobatic "Mystere" and "O" are at the high end but utterly incredible and worth the cost. Big-name entertainers abound, but there are also many moderately priced revues with singers, dancers, and comedians. The free or low-cost shows and attractions include:

* The Bellagio's water and light show outside and conservatory of flowers inside

* The Venetian's "Streets of Venice", complete with gondola rides (accessible dock, but chairs and carts are not allowed on the boat)

* Treasure Island's pirate ship battle

* The Mirage's "Secret Garden" and the White tigers of Siegfried and Roy

* Fremont Street Experience's laser light show

Excursions and activities

* Hoover Dam and Lake Mead are about 1 1/2 hours away. Bus tours are available. The visitors' center is well designed and accessible.

* To explore nature (early in the morning to avoid the heat) you can choose a hike, a hot-air balloon trip, or a helicopter ride over the Grand Canyon.

* Shopping in Las Vegas is as much a draw as gambling--from pricey world-famous boutiques in the luxury hotels, to malls with hundreds of stores, to discount outlet malls.

* Swimming, golf, tennis, and health spas are everywhere. Instead of gambling, I spent $25 for a day pass to the Canyon Ranch Health Spa in the Venetian Hotel. The pass included all classes and use of the gym equipment and pools. Facials, massages, and personal training were extra. I was assisted by the instructors in using the equipment, and I moved to the music while seated.

* The Liberace Museum, loaded with rhinestones and kitsch, is, well, one of a kind, and the Children's Discovery Museum is a fun place for kids of any age.

Dining

The hotels along the strip are themes come true, and so are their buffet feasts. With over 50 of them, we certainly haven't tried them all. Our criteria are quality, presentation, and accessibility. Our favorites: Orleans' French Market (inexpensive); Treasure Island and Mirage (moderate); Paris and Bellagio (expensive). The unspoken policy in many is to seat guests with disabilities first--so just wheel up to the head of the line. Of course, there's fine restaurant dining too. Both Emeril's and Spago lived up to their reputations.

Gambling

Yes, you can gamble. Slot machines are in the airport, the casinos, even the dry cleaners. The casinos have nickel slots and minimum $500-a-hand blackjack tables. Wheelchair-height tables are available. We like to watch other people playing. In fact, people-watching may be the best entertainment in the city.

Planning your trip

* Tell your travel agent or reservation clerk exactly what your disabilities and needs are.

* Bring, borrow from the hotel, or rent a wheelchair or scooter for the long distances. Save your energy for having fun.

* Order show tickets in advance (the hard-to-get tickets can be purchased up to 90 days in advance).

* Buy trip-cancellation insurance that covers pre-existing conditions.

* Remember that Sunday through Thursday bookings are the least expensive.

* Packages can be the best value. Ask your travel agent, or research on the Internet.

* Don't book a trip when large conventions are in town, as prices increase.

* Pack a sweater or jacket for the air conditioning!

* Organize your medicines early--and keep them with you. (See Have Meds, Will Travel on page 27.)

We have traveled the world, and Las Vegas is, without a doubt, the most accessible city we've ever visited. We' re eager to return.

For more information:

http://www.vegas4visitors.com -- Unbiased reviews of hotels, restaurants, and shows

http://www.pcap.com -- The "Official" Las Vegas Leisure Guide

http://www.scootaround.com/ -- Electric scooter rentals in Las Vegas

Joyce Render Cohen and her sister Gayle Render Dinerstein co-wrote "Living with Low Vision" in the Winter 2001 issue of InsideMS. Joyce Cohen has been living with MS for almost 18 years.