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Larry Matthews JR.

Larry MATTHEWS JR. Back Bay Grill -- Portland, Maine.

The Back Bay Grill showcases the best of Maine from the local produce and seafood on the menu, to the mural by the late local artist, Ed Manning, to the nightly personal greeting by owner Joel Freund. Over time, though always faithful to the regular guests, the restaurant has become increasingly sophisticated with the addition of fine stemware and china, innovative menus, and most of all, a talented young chef named Larry Matthews.

After working with Gethin Thomas at the White Barn Inn in Kennebunk, Maine, he spent a year at the Inn at Little Washington under Chef Patrick O'Connell. Soon after, a sous chef's position opened at the Back Bay Grill. Confident of his abilities and hungry to promote his ideas about classical and contemporary cuisine, Matthews quickly traded his sous chef's hat for a taller toque. At a young age (and appearing even more baby-faced), Matthews breathed new life into the menu, quickly turning the heads of first locals, then New Englanders. He ultimately garnered national attention and he has been lauded by the likes of the Wine Spectator, The Maine Times, and Boston Magazine for his unusually sophisticated fare. Clearly, Chef Larry Matthews Jr. proves that the regional dining scene in Maine involves more than a plastic bib and drawn butter.

Knuckle Sandwich with Chips (Serves 6)

directions

For the lobster oil: In a large saucepan, bring the oil and lobster shells to gentle simmer. Maintain the heat for four hours. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Discard the shells, transfer the oil to a small bowl, and cool to room temperature.

For the red onion: In a medium bowl, combine all of the ingredients and toss well to coat and set aside for one hour. Strain through a fine mesh sieve. Discard the liquid and transfer the onions to a small bowl. Season and set aside.

For the lobster mayonnaise: In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, mustard, and vinegar until smooth. Add a small amount of lobster oil, whisking constantly until thick and lemon-colored. Add the remaining oil in a slow, steady stream whisking constantly until smooth and thick. Season and set aside keeping chilled

For the sandwich: In a medium bowl, toss the knuckle meat with enough lobster mayonnaise to coat well. Season and spread some lobster mixture on a slice of rye toast. Arrange some red onion and spinach on top and cover with a slice of rye toast. Make five more sandwiches. Cut in half and set aside.

For the chips: Pre-heat a fryer to 325 degrees. Rinse the potatoes under cold water and transfer to a paper towel-lined sheet pan and dry well. Place in the fryer and cook until golden brown. Drain the potatoes on a separate paper towel-lined sheet pan. Season and set aside.

To serve: Place a knuckle sandwich in the center of a plate and accompany with some potato chips.

Extra Special Bitter Ale

Shipyard, Old Thumper

Portland, Maine
ingredients


For the lobster oil:
2 1/2 cups canola oil
1/2 pound lobster shells, crushed

For the red onion:
1 small red onion, peeled and thinly sliced
l cup red wine vinegar
Salt, pepper, and sugar to taste

For the lobster mayonnaise:
2 egg yolks
1/2 tablespoon whole grain Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 cups reserved lobster oil
Salt to taste

For the sandwich:
10 ounces lobster knuckle meat
Reserved lobster mayonnaise
12 slices rye bread, toasted
Reserved red onion
Flat leaf spinach

For the chips:
4 long Idaho potatoes, peeled and
thinly sliced
Salt to taste


Lobster Tortellini with Lobster Foam and Basil Oil (Serves 6)

directions

For the lobster stock: In a large saucepan, heat the oil. Add the lobster bodies and onions; saute until the onions turn golden brown. Deglaze the pan with wine and simmer until almost dry. Add the carrots, celery, and tomatoes and saute until tender. cover the ingredients with water, add the garlic, black peppercorns, thyme, and bay leaves, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for about two hours. Remove from the heat and strain, discarding the solids. If necessary, reduce the liquid to yield four cups. Divide the stock into two separate containers.

For the pasta dough: In an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the semolina and all-purpose flour. Add the eggs and mix until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead until just firm. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for two hours. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface, divide into four pieces, press gently to flatten.

For the lobster filling: In a medium saucepan, reduce the lobster stock down to 1/4 cup. And the gelatin to the warm stock and dissolve.

In a food processor, pulse the lobster meat until smooth. Pass the lobster puree through a fine, flat mesh sieve. In a large bowl, combine the lobster puree, shallot, butter, and mascarpone. Add the gelatin-stock, lemon juice, and zest to the lobster mix and stir to combine well. Season and refrigerate until set.

For the lobster foam: In a medium saucepan, bring the lobster stock reduction to a boil, add the cream, and simmer until reduced by half. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Season and puree the lobster foam until frothy and keep warm.

To assemble the tortellini: Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface, divide into thirds. Roll each piece of dough through a pasta machine several times starting at the thickest setting and ending on the thinnest. Using a 3-inch ring mold, cut out 60 pasta rounds and transfer half to a parchment-lined sheet pan. Spoon some lobster filling in the center of each and brush the edges with egg wash. Set the remaining pasta rounds on top, gently press the edges to remove any air bubbles, and seal the edges. Fold each round in half to form a half moon and gently press to seal the filling. Holding the pasta curved-side up, tuck the edges under, and pinch to secure. Transfer the tortellini to a parchment-lined sheet pan and set aside.

To finish the tortellini: Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the tortellini, reduce the heat, and simmer until the tortellini rise to the top. Drain and keep warm.

To serve: Arrange some tortellini in a soup bowl, spoon some lobster foam on top, and garnish with basil oil, lobster roe, and chives.

Meursault Les Charmes

Michel Coutoux

Burgundy, France 1999
ingredients


For the lobster stock:
1/4 cup vegetable oil
10 cookes lobster bodies
4 onions, peeled and chopped
1/2 cup white wine
4 carrots, peeled and chopped
3 ribs of celery, chopped
6 plum tomatoes, chopped
1 head garlic, peeled and chopped
2 tablespoons black peppercorns
6 springs thyme
2 bay leaves

For the pasta dough:
4 cups semolina floor
2 cups all-purpose flour
12 eggs
1 egg yolk beaten with 1/4 cup
 water for egg wash

For the lobster filling:
2 cups lobster stock
1 pound boiled and shelled lobster meat
1 shallot, peeled and minced
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
2 ounces mascarpone cheese
1 sheet gelatin, softened in cold water
2 cups of lobster stock
Juice and zest of 1 lemon
Salt and pepper to taste

For the lobster foam:
2 cups lobster stock
2 cups heavy cream
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Basil oil
Cooked lobster roe
Minced chives


A Tasting of Lobster (Serves 6)

directions

For the lobster bisque: In a large saucepan, melt the butter. Brown the lobster bodies and add the carrots, onion, celery, and tomatoes. Saute until the onions are translucent. Add the cognac and simmer until reduced by half. Add the rice and stock; simmer for two hours. Remove from the heat and discard the lobster bodies. Puree the bisque until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and return to " """"""" Add half the cream and simmer for one hour. Remove from the heat, strain through a fine mesh sieve and return to a """cepan. Add the remaining cream and adjust for the desired consistency. Remove from the heat, season, and keep warm.

For the black pepper profiteroles: Pre-heat the oven to 375 degrees. In a medium saucepan, bring the milk and butter to a boil. Add the flour and black pepper, stirring constantly to form a smooth, soft dough. Continue to stir until the dough pulls free from the sides of the pan. Maintain the heat and continue to stir for two minutes, making sure not to brown the dough. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightly. Transfer the dough to an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. On medium speed, add the eggs, one at a time, incorporating well in between each addition. Season and transfer the dough to a pastry bag fitted with a small round tip. Pipe pearl-sized drops of dough onto a parchment-lined half sheet pan. Bake until golden brown, about 10 minutes.

To make the lobster and gravlax terrine: For the gravlax: In a food processor combine the salt, sugar, pepper, and dill and pulse to form a rough paste. Pour half the salt mix in an even layer on the bottom of a plastic wrap-lined half sheet pan. Lay the salmon on top and cover with the remaining salt and herb mix. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 48 hours.

Remove the salmon from the salt mix and rinse thoroughly under cold running water. Pat the fish dry of any excess moisture and place on a cutting board. Slice the salmon very thinly against the skin, on the bias. Keep the slices covered and chilled.

For the lobster terrine: In a small saucepan, bring the cream to a boil and remove from the heat. Add the gelatin and whisk until dissolved. Add the mascarpone and stir with a wooden spoon until smooth. In a large bowl, combine the mascarpone cream with the lobster; toss to coat well. Add the orange zest and juice, red onion, parsley, tarragon, chives, and chervil and stir well to combine. Season and assemble the terrine.

To assemble the terrine: Place a large piece of plastic wrap on a flat work surface. Arrange the gravlax strips lengthwise in a single layer to form an 8-inch square. Spoon the lobster filling on the bottom half of the salmon sheet, and using the plastic wrap as a guide, roll tightly to enclose like a sausage. Tie each end securely and refrigerate until set, about two hours. Transfer the terrine to a cutting board and trim and discard the ends. Cut the terrine through the plastic wrap, dividing into six even pieces. Discard the plastic wrap. Transfer to a plate, cover with plastic wrap, and keep chilled.

To make the stuffed mussel: For the lobster mousseline: In a food processor, puree the lobster tail meat (not the tips), scallops, and shallot until smooth. Pass the puree through a fine mesh, flat sieve. Fold in the egg whites until well combined. Fold the whipped cream and combine. Season and set aside.

Bring a small saucepan of water to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer. Wrap a small spoonful of lobster mousseline in plastic wrap and simmer until firm. Remove from the heat and check the seasoning. Transfer the remaining lobster mousseline mix to a pastry bag fitted with the smallest, round tip and set aside.

In a small saucepan, bring the mussels and 1/4 cup of water to a boil. Remove from the heat, cover, and allow to steam until the shells open slightly, about one minute. Transfer the shells to a sheet pan, remove the top shell, and reserve. Pipe some lobster mousseline over each mussel and cover with the reserved top shell. Secure with rubber bands and set aside.

In a small saucepan, steam the mussels in the wine for one minute. Remove from the heat and remove the rubber band. Discard the top shell and keep warm. Drizzle with olive oil.

For the chive creme fraiche: In a medium bowl, whisk together all of the ingredients until well-combined. Season and keep chilled.

For the dish: Cook the reserved lobster tail tips to the desired doneness. Place some chive creme fraiche on the plate. Top with a lobster tail tip, and a quenelle of sevruga caviar.

To serve: Arrange on a long plate from left to right: some lobster bisque in an espresso cup, sprinkled with black pepper profiteroles; a slice of lobster and gravlax terrine; a mound of rock weed topped with a lobster mousseline stuffed mussel; and a lobster tail on chive creme fraiche topped with caviar.

Cristal Louis Roederer Champagne, France 1995
ingredients


For the soup:
For the lobster bisque:
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
5 cooked lobster bodies, chopped
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
1 onion, peeled and chopped
2 ribs of celery, chopped
5 plum tomatoes, chopped
1/2 cup cognac
1/2 cup cooked white rice
2 1/2 quarts lobster stock
1 cup heavy cream
Salt, pepper, and lemon juice to taste

For the black pepper profiteroles:
1/2 cup milk
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup all-purpose flour, sifted
2 tablespoons finely ground black pepper
5 eggs, room temperature
Salt to taste

For the lobster and gravlax terrine:
For the gravlax:
2 cups kosher salt
2 cups granulated sugar
1 cup freshly ground black pepper
4 bunches dill, stemmed and chopped
1 1/2-pound side of salmon, skin on

For the lobster:
1/4 cup heavy cream
1 sheet gelatin, softened in cold water
4 ounces mascarpone cheese, room temperature
2 1 1/2-pound lobsters, boiled, shelled, and meat diced
Zest and juice of 1 orange
1 small red onion, peeled and minced
4 sprigs parsley, stemmed and minced
4 sprigs tarragon, stemmed and minced
4 sprigs chives, minced
4 sprigs chervil, minced
Reserved gravlax slices
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the stuffed mussel:
For the lobster mousseline:
6 3-ounce lobster tails, blanched and
shelled, tips cut and reserved
2 ounces sea scallops
1 small shallot, peeled and minced
2 egg whites, whipped to soft peaks
1/2 cup heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks
6 large Blue Hill mussels *
Olive oil to drizzle
Salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper to taste

For the lobster tail:
For the chive creme fraiche:
1/2 bunch chives, blanched and finely minced
1 cup creme fraiche
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Reserved lobster tail tips
Sevruga caviar
Rock weed **

* Available through Harbor Fish Market at (800) 370-1790.

** Rock weed is a type of seaweed that is often used as a garnish.

Note: The gravlax recipe will cure an entire side of salmon, which will
provide more gravlax than required for the recipe.


Lobster Consomme with Lobster Flan and Lobster Salpicon (Serves 6)

directions

For the lobster consomme: In a food processor, pulse the lobster bodies, onions, carrots, celery, tomatoes and egg whites to form a rough paste. In a large saucepan, whisk together the lobster puree and fish stock. Simmer, stirring gently until a raft forms on the surface. Simmer for one hour to clarify. Remove from the heat and using a ladle, carefully strain the liquid through a coffee-filter lined, fine mesh sieve. Discard the raft. Season the strained liquid and keep warm.

For the lobster flan: Arrange six 2-ounce remekins in a deep ovenproof pan and pre-heat the oven to 325 degrees. In a large saucepan, bring the lobster bodies and cream to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by half. Remove from the heat and set aside in an ice bath to cool. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and reserve two tablespoons for the salpicon.

Add the eggs and cognac to the remaining lobster cream and stir to combine. Season the mixture and fill the prepared ramekins. Pour enough hot water into the pan to come half way up the sides of the ramekins. Bake in the oven until set, about 25 minutes. Remove from the heat and keep warm.

For the lobster salpicon: In a large bowl, combine all of the ingredients and toss well to coat. Season and keep chilled.

To serve: invert a lobster flan in the center, and remove the ramekin. Ladle some lobster consomme around the dish, place a quenelle of salpicon on top of the flan, and garnish with chervil.

Sauvignon Blanc

Rochioli

Sonomo, California 1997
ingredients


For the lobster consomme:
5 lobster bodies, crushed
2 onions, peeled and chopped
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
3 ribs of celery, chopped
4 plum tomatoes, chopped
2 cups egg whites, beaten
4 quarts lobster stock
Salt and pepper to taste

For the lobster flan:
4 lobster bodies, chopped
3 cups heavy cream
4 eggs
1 tablespoon cognac
Salt and pepper to taste

For the lobster salpicon:
8 ounces cooked lobster meat, minced
1 shallot, peeled and minced
1 rib of celery, minced
1 tomato, peeled, seeded, and minced
1 sprig parsley, stemmed and minced
2 tablespoons of reserved lobster cream
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Chervil sprigs


Chilled Lobster Salad and Herbed Goat Cheese with Vanilla Oil (Serves 6)

For the vanilla oil: In a small saucepan, warm the oil over low heat. Add the vanilla beans and maintain the heat for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Serve the oil at room temperature.

For the feuille de brik cups: Pre-heat the oven to 325 degrees. Lightly brush each sheet of feuille de brik with butter and repeat a second layer. Using six 3-ounce ramekins, shape the feuilles de brik into cups. Place a 2-inch ring mold in the center to secure, and separate the edges of the pastry like petals. Bake in the oven until golden brown, about five minutes.

For the goat cheese: In a double boiler, soften the goat cheese. Add enough cream to form a smooth consistency. Remove from the heat, add the parsley, thyme, basil, tarragon, chervil, and chives and stir to combine. Season and transfer to a pastry bag, and set aside at room temperature.

For the lobster salad: Lightly warm all the ingredients and mix together in a bowl. Season, add the chervil and keep warm.

For the dish: Dress the carrot strips with extra virgin olive oil and season.

To serve: Place a feuille de brik cup to one side of a plate and fill with lobster salad. Pipe a small mound of goat cheese to one side of the plate and wrap a dressed carrot strip around. Place two lobster tail halves on top, arrange some chervil and top, and drizzle some vanilla oil around the dish.

Personelle, Pinot Gris

Trimbach

Alsace, France 1997
ingredients


For the vanilla oil:
1 cup grapeseed oil
2 vanilla beans, split and scraped

For the feuille de brik cups:
12 4-inch square sheets feuille de brik *
1/4 cup clarified butter

For the goat cheese:
8 ounces fresh goat cheese
1/2 cup heavy cream, warmed
3 sprigs parsley, stemmed and minced
3 sprigs thyme, stemmed and minced
3 sprigs basil, stemmed and minced
3 sprigs tarragon, minced
1/4 bunch chervil, stemmed and minced
1/4 bunch chives, stemmed and minced
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the lobster salad:
6 ounces cooked lobster meat, diced
1 large carrot, peeled, diced, and blanched
2 tablespoons sour cream
2-inch piece horseradish, peeled and grated
1/4 bunch chervil sprigs
Salt, white pepper, and lemon juice to taste

For the dish:
6 long, thin carrot slices, blanched and shocked
6 3-ounce lobster tails, boiled, shelled, and halved
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

For the garnish:
chervil sprigs

* Available through Gourmand at (800) 627-7272.


Lobster Strudel with Pistachio Crumbs and Seared Foie Gras (Serves 6)

directions

For the pistachio breadcrumbs: In a food processor, pulse the lemon zest, parsley, chervil, and pistachios until finely ground. Add the bread and pulse to combine. Transfer to a sheet pan to dry, for about one hour. Return to the food processor and pulse to form a fine crumb. Season and reserve 1/4 cup separately.

For the lobster strudel: In a medium saute pan, heat the oil and add the fennel and onion and saute until tender. Remove from the heat and transfer to a bowl. Add the lobster meat and tarragon and toss to coat. Season and set aside at room temperature.

For the lemon vinaigrette: In a medium bowl, whisk together all of the ingredients and season.

For the beet salad: In a medium bowl, toss together all of the ingredients. Dress with some lemon vinaigrette and season.

To finish the strudel: Pre-heat the oven to 400 degrees. Lay a sheet of phyllo dough on a parchmentlined work surface. Brush with melted butter. Set a sheet of phyllo dough on top and repeat with two more layers of phyllo dough. Sprinkle some pistachio breadcrumbs on top. Spoon half the lobster filling across the bottom half of the phyllo and, using the parchment paper as a guide, roll tightly to form a cylindrical shape and enclose the filling. Transfer the strudel, seam-side down, to a parchment-lined sheet pan. Brush with melted butter and sprinkle some pistachio breadcrumbs on top. Repeat to make two strudel. Bake in the oven until crisp, about 15 minutes. Trim off the ends, cut each strudel into three pieces and keep warm.

For the foie gras: In a large saute pan, season and sear the foie gras on both sides until desired doneness. Remove from the heat and keep warm.

To serve: Place a piece of lobster strudel to one side of a plate, spoon a mound of beet salad to the side, and top with a slice of foie gras. Sprinkle some pistachio breadcrumbs, micro arugula, and lemon vinaigrette over the dish.

Pinot Noir

Domaine Drouhin

Willomelle Valley, Oregon 1997
ingredients


For the pistachio breadcrumbs:
Zest of 1 lemon
1/4 bunch parsley leaves
1/4 bunch chervil leaves
1/4 pound shelled, unsalted pistachios
1 small loaf French bread, crust
removed and cubed
Salt and pepper to taste

For the lobster strudel:
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 fennel bulb, trimmed and diced
1 onion, peeled and diced
5 1 1/2-pound lobsters, boiled for
four minutes, shelled, and meat diced
1 bunch tarragon, stemmed and minced
8 13x17-inch sheets phyllo dough
Unsalted butter, melted, as needed
Reserved pistachio breadcrumbs
Salt and pepper to taste

For the lemon vinaigrette:
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
Salt, sugar, and pepper to taste

For the beet salad:
4 red beets, roasted, peeled, and diced
4 small leeks, white part only, diced
1 tablespoon reserved lemon vinaigrette
2 small shallots, peeled and minced
Salt and pepper to taste

For the foie gras:
6 2-ounce slices foie gras
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Reserved breadcrumbs
Micro arugula
Reserved lemon vinaigrette


Maine Lobster and Mascarpone Puree with Asparagus Soup (Serves 6)

directions

For the mascarpone puree: In an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine all of the ingredients and mix until smooth. Transfer to a medium bowl, season, and set aside at room temperature for one hour.

For the asparagus soup: In a large saucepan, melt the butter. Add the asparagus stems and onion and gently saute until tender. Add the thyme and stock and simmer until reduced by half. Remove from the heat and puree until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve, discarding the solids. Return the liquid to a saucepan, and add the potato; simmer until tender. Add the asparagus tips and simmer until tender. Remove from the heat and puree until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and place in a saucepan. Add cream to desired consistency and simmer until warmed through. Remove from the heat, season, and keep warm.

For the lobster: In a medium saucepan, melt the butter. Add the lobster and simmer until desired doneness, making sure to baste occasionally with butter. Remove from the beat, season, and keep warm.

To serve: Spoon some asparagus soup into a soup bowl and set a quenelle of mascarpone cheese in the center. Place a lobster tail and claw on top and garnish with asparagus tips, frisee, chervil and truffle slices. Drizzle sparingly with white truffle oil.

Chordonnay

Pohlmeyer

Nopa, California 1997
ingredients


For the mascarpone puree:
8 ounces mascarpone cheese
1 teaspoon white truffle puree *
1/2 bunch parsley, stemmed and minced
1/2 bunch tarragon, stemmed and minced
1/2 bunch chives, minced
1 small shallot, peeled and minced
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the asparagus soup:
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 pound asparagus, stems chopped
and tips reserved separately
1 small onion, peeled and chopped
2 sprigs thyme
1 quart chicken stock
1 large Idaho potato, peeled and diced
1 cup heavy cream, as needed
Salt, white pepper to taste

For the lobster:
8 ounces unsalted butter
6 lobster claws, blanched and shelled
6 lobster tails, blanched and shelled
Salt to taste

For the garnish:
Oregon white truffle slices **
White truffle oil
Frisee
Chervil sprigs
Asparagus tips

* Available through Gourmand at (800) 627-7272.

** Available through White Mountain Mushroom Company at (877) 777-9003.
COPYRIGHT 2002 Culinaire, Inc.
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 2002, Gale Group. All rights reserved. Gale Group is a Thomson Corporation Company.

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Title Annotation:chef's recipes
Publication:Art Culinaire
Geographic Code:1USA
Date:Jun 22, 2002
Words:4248
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