Lacto-Licious.

Ice cream--not yogurt, not sherbet or sorbet, not rice cream or ice milk, not soy cream, but ice cream--full fat, full cream, full yolk, full sugar. Who would have ever thought that the simplest and most beloved frozen concoction has almost a zillion varieties?

According to the American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language, ice cream is "a sweet frozen food prepared from milk products and flavorings." Some might consider other cousins of ice cream that use milk substitutes as members of the same category, but technically, they are not. * America is, hands down, the largest consumer of ice cream in the world; not surprisingly, there are an endless multitude of choices and the list keeps growing. Forget about chocolate or vanilla--we're not talking about 31 flavors or mix-ins or even toppings; we're talking about "exotic" flavors such as basil, truffle, and in Japan, sea urchin or even wasabi. * In the eighties, labels like the late Frusen Gladje, with its "exotic" Scandinavian name and "cool" looking tub, transformed our traditional thoughts on the ubiquitous treat. Evolution has brought new spin-offs, such as frozen tofu that vegans all over the world now swear by. Ice cream does not have to threaten the waistline, either. The new sugar-free and low fat versi ons allow us all to have our ice cream and eat it, too. Understandably, many claim credit for inventing one of the bestloved foods in the world. Stories conflict about whether the Egyptians or the Chinese were first to make ice cream, and whether shaved and flavored ice meets the definition of the frozen confection. Marco Polo may have brought it to Europe from China, or it could have been Nero Claudius Caesar, the great Roman emperor. Regardless of the conflicting claims, ice cream is here today.

Perhaps the reason this treat is so beloved is the comfort and nostalgia associated with it. Who could forget his or her first banana split or chocolate sundae? Who hasn't been consoled with a pint of his or her favorite flavor and a box of tissues? Most remember hot summer days, licking a cone or sprinting after a jingling, musical ice cream truck. "The ice cream man is here!" echoed through the streets of most people's childhood. Whether in a cup or a cone--single or double dip--and sprinkled with chocolate or rainbow jimmies, ice cream evokes happy memories. Ice cream is good, comfort food. Which came first, the chicken or the egg? Which is better--ice cream made with or without eggs? The answer to this question is often debated. The answer is purely up to personal taste and opinion. * Making ice cream has progressed from the days of using simple ice, salt and hand-cranked machines to the streamlined methods of the pricey--hut well-worth it--a la minute machines. Ice cream lovers never have to tolerate icy , rock-hard globs of their favorite treat again! Ice crystals are like cancer to ice cream; once they start to appear, they spread, destroying the texture and flavor of something once precious. Happily, the newer, faster machines eliminate this problem of crystallization and allow for a smoother consistency of ice cream. There are wonderful machines that only require the addition of raw ingredients and, with the push of a button, can handle the cooking, pasteurization, and freezing from start to finish. Depending on the restaurant's operation and volume, an investment in a good machine could be well worth it, providing one has the space, time, and manpower to use it. * There is no doubt that, if possible, "spinning" ice cream daily, or better yet, per service, is best. Those who are lucky enough to have a fancy gadget like a Pacojet only need a supply of containers. This handy device, the Pacojet, has allowed fine dining to go one step further as it can make a single, perfect scoop to order. The correct freez ing temperature is key to consistency, as is the proper storage of ice cream and liquid bases. If the ice cream is for a shop or to be held for a period of time, such as for banquet use, blast or flash freezing is ideal. Long favored in France, a blast freezer will drop the temperature of the product to below freezing in minutes thus preventing crystallization. * Before serving, a molded ice cream-based dessert needs to be frozen solid to keep its shape, but must be soft enough to be "forked and spooned" on a plate by the diner. If it's too hard, then one might as well serve an ice-cube. The ideal serving temperature is between 5 to 10 degrees for maximum flavor, while well below zero is best for holding products in the deep freeze. Ice cream is a serious business. In France, an official title "Glacier" is awarded to qualifying ice cream makers as bonafide, skilled craftsmen. The prestigious competition Meilleur Ouvrier de France bestows this honorable title each year to one "glacier."

... Please sir, can I have some more? Oliver Twist ...

Different types of ice cream:

* Philadelphia Ice Cream was once regarded as the traditional ice cream of America. The recipe for this classic includes only cream, sugar and the seeds of a vanilla bean. The addition of egg to this mix transforms it into what is known as "American" or "country ice cream." (One thing to note is that the machine and temperature will greatly affect the product in a full cream base.)

* Indian Ice Cream is made by adding the milk from pureed corn to cream, egg yolks, and sugar in Central Mexico.

* Gelato is an Italian version of ice cream; the term also refers to all frozen scoops such as sorbet or granite. Gelato is often more egg enriched than other versions, resulting in a dense ice cream.

* Ice Milk has a small amount of cream so that the fat content is between 5 to 7 percent. Ice milk has been used for the diet-conscious as a substitute for rich ice cream. Much of the commercial soft serve ice cream available is ice milk.

* Frozen Yogurt is a much lighter and healthier variation of ice cream. Frozen yogurt has a tangy flavor and often has fewer calories and lower fat, but generally a higher sugar content.

* Sherbet is a cross between sorbet and ice cream. Containing milk or cream, it usually comes in fruit flavors.

* Rice & Soy Milk, though dairy-free, are often used as ice cream substitutes for the health conscious.

* Sorbet is presently one of the most popular frozen desserts and has surpassed the popularity of sherbet. Designated as either French or Italian, sorbet is now an accepted term in the American lexicon to mean any type of frozen churned product containing no egg or dairy products. However, some varieties of sorbet are made with the addition of a tiny amount of egg white, which acts as a natural stabilizer to help prevent icy textures. Spoom is a meringue-enhanced sorbet or sherbet.

Ice cream can turn out rock hard or gummy, filled with ice crystals, or suffer from a bad case of freezer burn if certain precautions are not taken. Below is a list of products and processes that help circumvent common problems in the finished product:

STABILIZERS such as trimoline, corn syrup, honey, rice syrup, maple, fructose, or any other invert sugars inhibit crystallization by absorbing water. A traditional stabilizer used to be arrowroot, but now agar-agar, carrageen, starches, gelatin, or even pectin are common natural-based stabilizers. Generally, sorbets need stabilizers more often than ice creams. However, too much stabilizer will result in gumminess and affect the final texture.

EMULSIFIERS are added in the form of fat, traditionally egg yolks. The addition of emulsifiers aids in the rich mouth feel. In ice cream made with egg yolks and milk products, the natural emulsifier is lecithin. High yolk ratios can produce very rich bases, as in the Italian and French ice creams.

DAIRY products can be incorporated in any combination. Milk, cream, evaporated, or condensed milk all contribute to the amount of milk fat and non-fat milk solids. Varying proportions of fat to water in different combinations will yield different results. Many factors contribute equally to the creation of great ice cream, but the formulation of the dairy base, which is the "heart and soul" of the ice cream, will have direct, immediate effects on the final product. Too much cream and a fast spinning machine can result in chunks of butter, while too much milk can result in a grainy, icy texture.

AERATION adds to the overall mass and lightness of the final product. When using a commercial machine, the blade or "dasher" spins or churns the ice cream base in a chilled turbine. Speed, temperature, and quantity are all key factors to the end result. Churning ice cream in a machine will increase in volume, which is calculated in a percentage called "overrun." Higher overrun yields more product, with 100% overrun being the maximum allowed under U.S. law. A richer ice cream base with a higher fat ratio, usually due to the addition of more cream or eggs, often results in a denser product that has less overrun. Quality vs. quantity is the favored result. A dense ice cream is not necessarily better.

THE KEY FACTORS IN MAKING ICE CREAM

The heating process is the cooking of the base. The base must be cooked for sanitation reasons, especially if it contains egg products. It is advisable to pasteurize the base by cooking it to a minimum temperature of 161 degrees, which will kill the most basic bacteria, such as salmonella. Cooking the base at 190 degrees or above will "scramble" the eggs, so one should avoid such high temperatures. Although a common occurrence in most restaurants, melting and re-churning ice cream bases should be avoided This practice creates a breeding ground for bacterial contamination. In Philadelphia style ice cream, the ingredients are often uncooked. Still, it is a good practice to scald the milk or cream as this precaution will kill bacteria and also dissolve the sugar and help infuse any flavors.

The ice bath chilling process involves simply good sanitation practices and follows the method of pasteurization. When the base is finished cooking, it is important to cool it down as soon as possible using an ice bath or other method.

The aging process involves allowing the ice cream base to "rest" for 24 hours or overnight. The resting time allows the fat to crystallize and the proteins and polysaccharides to hydrate. Also, at this time the stabilizer will "kick" in and become absorbed. A pastry cook can note difference in the thicknesses of creme anglaise made right before service as opposed to that made the day before. Both are homogenized but the extra time allows the sauce to thicken. Patience results in a richer texture and body.

The freezing process is the actual churning or spinning of the ice cream. Do not forget to factor overrun; never overfill the machine. Ice cream that is churning must be watched carefully. Over-mixing or freezing can damage the product and the machine. Letting the dashers spin for a minute or two without the freezing option will help the ice cream come out of the machine more easily, if the machine has the ability. Nuts or other solid additions should be folded in at the end.

The hardening process allows the ice cream to settle and harden slightly after churning. The container should be airtight or the ice cream could absorb the odors of the freezer.

The cleaning process is mandatory. Always clean and sanitize the machine well after use.

Pierre Hermes ice cream base

(Makes 2 1/2 cups)


1 cup of milk
1 cup heavy cream
2 plump vanilla beans, split and
scraped
6 large egg yolks
1/2 cup sugar

Note: Herme recommends the extra "poaching" time after the custard has thickened. This is done to achieve a smoother cream.

In a medium saucepan, bring the milk, cream, vanilla beans, and vanilla seeds to a boil. Remove from the heat and steep for 10 minutes. In a separate bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until thick and pale. Temper the egg yolks, adding one-third of the hot cream while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered egg yolks into back into the hot cream. Cook stirring constantly until the mixture reaches 180 degrees or thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon. Remove from the heat immediately and let it sit for another two minutes, until the thermometer reads 182 degrees. Immediately strain the mixture through a fine mesh sieve. Set aside in an ice bath to chill. Chill for 24 hours in an airtight container to prevent odor absorption.

Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Fabrizio Collica

San Domenico ... New York, NY

The latest Sicilian on the scene at San Domenico is the sweetest godfather around, literally. You'll find much more than just cannoli and spumoni coming out of Fabrizio Collica's pastry kitchen. Coming from a Sicilian family involved in ristoranti and a pasticceria, Fabrizio seems to have coulis running through his veins. His grandfather was a baker, his father, a chef, and his mother still manages a pastry shop in Italy.

With three generations involved in the "biz," it was only natural for Fabrizio to begin his career as a young helper in his uncle's pastry shop. Over time, moving from pastry shop to restaurants, this talented pastry chef met his American wife, Claudia, in Sicily. Never having visited the U.S. before, in 1999 he settled here and worked in a local bakery learning English, literally one word at a time.

Fabrizio came to meet Tony May, the revered owner of San Domenico, at a party in the restaurant. May was looking for a new pastry chef and voila! With perfect timing in the perfect place, Collica has been putting smiles on the faces of patrons at San Domenico since November 2000.

When asked about the differences between Italian and American desserts, Collica mentions that the flavors used in Sicily, particularly, are stronger. Also, the traditional cassata and other large cakes are more common in Sicily compared to the plated desserts of New York. The variety of produce is quite different as well, but luckily in New York City, he is able to easily procure anything he needs.

Fabrizio loves working with chocolate. At San Domenico, he is able to expand his presentations and creativity. He experiments and plays with different flavors, challenging himself and introducing the diners to new adventures of the palate. Interestingly enough, despite being a pastry chef, he is allergic to flour.

Learning a new culture, language, and lifestyle is inspiring to this talented man who relishes the competition. Coming to America has been an incredible change for Collica. With a future so bright, this sweet Sicilian is here to stay.

White Truffle Gelato with Sweet Parmigiano-Reggiano Tuiles (Serves 8)

directions

For the white truffle gelato: In a medium saucepan, whisk together the milk, heavy cream, and sugar. Transfer one cup of the mix to a medium bowl, whisk in the cornstarch, and set aside. Boil the milk and cream. Add the cornstarch mix and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve; transfer to a medium bowl. Add the corn syrup and truffle butter; stir until dissolved and well-combined. Set aside in an ice bath until chilled. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.

For the sesame seed cups: In a saucepan, rub the sugar and lemon juice together and caramelize over high heat, stirring constantly. When the caramel is golden Thrown, remove from the heat and mix in the sesame seeds. Pour the mixture onto a non-stick mat. Cover with a non-stick mat and roll out very thinly. If necessary, warm the mixture in a hot oven to make to make it pliable. Punch out circles using a 2-inch ring cutter and shape into baskets by draping the circle over a small, inverted tart mold coated with oil. Allow the baskets to harden and cool. Repeat with the remaining mixtures to form seven more sesame seeds cups.

For the Parmigiano-Reggiano tuiles: Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees. Combine all the ingredients in a food processor and pulse until smooth. Spread a thin layer of tuile mix on a non-stick sheet pan. Bake until golden. Remove from the sheet while still warm; cut into seven 6-inch triangles and mold each tuile around a cylinder. Pinch the ends together and set aside to cool.

Crush the trimmings, making fine crumbs to use as a garnish, and set aside.

For the blackberry sauce: In a medium saucepan, bring all the ingredients to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat, puree and strain. Set aside to cool.

To serve: Set a Parmigiano-Reggiano tuile to one side and fill with some white truffle ice cream. Place a sesame cup to one side and top with an orange slice. Arrange a stick of caramelized sugar and attach an orange peel spiral to the top end. Drizzle some blackberry sauce around the dish and sprinkle with Parmigiano-Reggiano tuile crumbs.

Recioto Della Valpolicella

Bussola

Veneto, Italy 1997

ingredients


For the white truffle gelato:
1 1/2 cups milk
3/4 cup heavy cream
5 ounces granulated sugar
1 tablespoon cornstarch
2 tablespoon corn syrup
1 1/2 ounces white truffle butter *

For the sesame seed cups:
7 ounces granulated sugar
Juice of 1/2 lemon
3 ounces sesame seeds
Vegetable oil, as needed

For the Parmigiano-Reggiano tuile:
4 ounces granulated sugar
2 ounces unsalted butter
2 ounces all-purpose flour
2 ounces grated
Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Juice of 1/2 orange

For the blackberry sauce:
4 ounces blackberries
4 ounces granulated sugar
1/4 cup water

For the garnish:
Sliced orange
Dried orange peel
Caramelized sugar sticks

* Available through Chef Ready at [phone].

Espresso Gelato and Chocolate Almond Cake with Cinnamon Sauce (serves 8)

directions

For the espresso gelato: Line the bottom of eight 2-inch diameter ring molds with plastic wrap and set aside. In a medium saucepan, whisk together the espresso, heavy cream, and sugar. Transfer one cup of the mix to a medium bowl, whisk in the egg yolks, and set aside. In a medium saucepan, bring the espresso cream to a boil. Remove from the heat an temper the egg yolks, adding one-third of the hot cream while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered eggs back into the hot cream and cook, stirring constantly until the cream is thick enough to coat the back of the spoon. Remove from the heat; strain through a fine mesh sieve and transfer to a medium bowl. Add the corn syrup and stir until dissolved and well-combined. Set aside in an ice bath until chilled. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Fill the prepared molds with ice cream, cover with plastic wrap, and freeze, When firm, transfer the molds to a Hat work surface, remove the plastic wrap, and un-mold the ice cream. Roll each ice cream cylinder in ground espresso and keep frozen.

For the chocolate almond cake: Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees. In a double boiler, melt the chocolate. In an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the softened butter and three ounces sugar on high speed until pale and Huffy, about two minutes. Reduce the speed, add the egg and yolks, and mix until well-combined.

In an electric mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, beat the egg whites and sugar on high speed to form stiff, glossy peaks. Fold the egg whites into the butter mixture until well combined.

Fold the melted chocolate into the cake batter; fold in the flour and the almonds. Transfer the batter into a parchment-lined quarter-sheet pan and tap gently to release any air bubbles. Bake until done, about 30 minutes. Cool and cut the cake into eight equal squares. Cut each square diagonally; set aside.

For the cinnamon sauce: In a small saucepan, boil the cream and cinnamon. Pour over the white chocolate and gently whisk to incorporate. Allow to cool.

To serve: Place an espresso ice cream cylinder on the plate; scoop some whipped cream on top. Set two diagonals of chocolate cake to one side; spoon some cinnamon sauce over the dish and garnish with caramelized sugar, cinnamon sticks and ground espresso.

Vin Santo

Avignonesi

Tuscany, Italy 1989

ingredients


For the espresso gelato:
1 1/2 cups espresso coffee
3/4 cup heavy cream
4 ounces granulated sugar
3 egg yolks
2 tablespoons corn syrup
Finely ground espresso beans, as
needed for coating

For the chocolate almond cake:
4 ounces unsalted butter, softened
4 ounces confectioners' sugar
4 ounces blanched almonds, finely ground
4 egg yolks
1 egg
4 egg whites, whipped to stiff peaks
2 ounces all-purpose flour, sifted
6 ounces extra bitter chocolate, chopped

For the cinnamon sauce:
1 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
8 ounces white chocolate, chopped

For the garnish:
Whipped cream
Caramelized sugar
Cinnamon sticks
Finely ground espresso

Dried Fig Gelato with Pistachio Cake and Almond Croquant (Serves 8)

directions

For the dried fig gelato: In a medium saucepan, bring the milk, heavy cream, figs, sugar, cinnamon, and orange peel to a boil and remove from the heat. Remove the cinnamon stick and puree the mixture until smooth. Return the mixture to the pan with the cinnamon stick.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the remaining milk with the egg yolks. Bring the steeped fig mixture to a boil. Remove from the heat and temper the egg yolks, adding one-third of the fig mixture while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered eggs back into the fig mixture and cook, stirring constantly until the fig mixture is thick enough to coat the back of the spoon. Remove from the heat; strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside in an ice bath until chilled. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.

For the pistachio cake: Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees. Coat eight 2-ounce pyramid molds with melted butter and dust with flour.

In a food processor combine the pistachios, soft butter, and sugar; mix until smooth. Add the eggs and blend until smooth. Transfer the batter to the prepared molds and bake in the oven until done and springy to the touch. Invert the cakes onto a hat work surface and un-mold.

For the orange sauce: In a medium saucepan, bring the orange juice and sugar to a boil; remove from the heat. Transfer a half-cup of the orange juice to a howl and whisk in the cornstarch. Add the cornstarch mixture to the hot orange juice, and return to a boil. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool at room temperature.

For the almond croquant: Arrange the almonds in an even layer on a parchment lined half-sheet pan and set aside. In a medium saucepan, boil the sugar, water, and corn syrup to a caramel until golden brown. Remove from the heat and using a fork, carefully drizzle some caramel over the almonds in a decorative pattern. Cover with a piece of parchment paper and carefully flip the sheet pan over. Remove the top sheet of parchment paper. Drizzle the remaining caramel over the almonds and set aside to cool. Break the almond croquant into 12 pieces and set aside.

To serve: Place the pistachio cake to one side of the plate and top with a vanilla bean. Lay a piece of almond croquant in the center, set a scoop of dried fig ice cream on top, and garnish with almond croquant. Set a dried fig to one side and spoon some orange sauce around the dish.

Marsala Superiore, Marco de Bartoli

Cantina de Bartoli

Sicily, Italy 1990

Ingredients


For the fig gelato:
1 1/2 cups milk
1/4 cup heavy cream
4 ounces dried figs
2 ounces granulated sugar
1 stick cinnamon
Zest of 1/2 orange
3 egg yolks

For the pistachio cake:
Unsalted butter, melted, as needed
All-purpose flour For dusting
4 ounces pistachios, shelled, toasted,
and finely ground
4 ounces granulated sugar
3 ounces unsalted butter, softened
3 eggs

For the orange sauce:
1 cup orange juice, strained
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 tablespoon cornstarch

For the almond croquant:
7 ounces granulated sugar
1 cup water
2 tablespoons corn syrup
2 ounces sliced almonds

For the garnish:
Vanilla bean
Dried figs

Cardamom and Ginger Ice Cream Filled Stollen with Plum Sauce. (Serves 10)

directions

For the stollen: In a medium bowl, combine the raisins, black currants, pumpkinseeds, candied lemon and orange peel, vanilla, rum, and half the almonds and toss to coat. Allow to marinate at room temperature overnight.

In an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the bread flour, yeast, sugar, salt, eggs, milk, and four ounces melted butter; mix on low speed until just combined. Remove the bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and set aside in a warm place for two hours. Turn the dough on to a lightly floured work surface, pressing gently to flatten. Pour the dried fruit and nuts in the center and knead to combine. Transfer the dough to the bowl, cover with a damp cloth for two hours, or until doubled in volume.

Pre-heat the oven to 325 degrees. In a small bowl, knead the remaining almonds, marzipan, and lime zest and juice until well-combined. Turn the stollen dough onto a lightly floured work surface. Roll into a large, 1/2-inch thick square sheet. Form into a cylinder shape the same length of the stollen dough. Place the marzipan in the center of the stollen. Roll the dough tightly around the marzipan to form a long jelly roll and pinch the seams to enclose. Transfer to a parchment-lined sheet pan, cover with plastic wrap and set aside in a warm place to rise for 30 minutes or until doubled in volume.

Bake in the oven until golden brown, about 45 minutes. Remove from the heat and brush with some of the remaining butter and dust with confectioners' sugar. Wrap the stollen with plastic wrap and set aside for three days. Cut into 1/8-inch thin slices.

For the ice cream: In a large saucepan, bring the milk, cream, cardamom seeds, and halt the honey to a boil and remove from the heat. In a double boiler whisk together the remaining honey, egg yolks, and ginger until pale and smooth. Remove from the heat and temper the egg yolks, adding one-third of the hot cream while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered eggs into the hot cream and cook, stirring constantly until the cream is thick enough to coat the back of the spoon. Remove from the heat; strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside in an ice bath. Allow to chill thoroughly. Add the lemon juice and stir to combine. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.

To assemble the stollen: Arrange ten 4-ounce timbale molds on a flat work surface. Line the bottom and inside of each mold with the stollen slices. Fill each mold with cardamom and ginger ice cream and cover with stollen slices. Gently press to secure, cover with plastic wrap, and freezer until firm.

For the plum sauce: In a large saucepan, bring two cups Cabernet Sauvignon, cinnamon, and honey to a boil. Remove from the heat, add the plums, cover, and set aside for 10 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and reserve the plums and poaching liquid separately. In a large saucepan, bring the poaching liquid, remaining wine, and orange zest to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by half. Add the cornstarch and whisk to combine. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer, stirring constantly until thick. Add the plums and simmer until warmed through. Remove from the heat and season with sugar. Keep warm and add the plum eau de vie just before serving.

To serve: Invert a stollen timbale in the center of a plate, remove the mold, and dust with confectioners' sugar. Spoon some plum sauce around the dish and garnish with spruce.

Late Bottled Port

Smith Woodhouse

Douro, Poriugal 1990

ingredients


For the stollen:
1 ounce organic raisins
1 ounce organic black currants
1 ounce crushed pumpkinseeds
1 tablespoon diced candied lemon peel
1 tablespoon diced candied orange peel
Seeds of 1/2 vanilla bean
1 tablespoon rum
2 ounces blanched almonds, chopped
9 ounces bread flour, sifted
1/2 ounce fresh yeast, crumbled
1 ounce granulated sugar
Pinch of salt
1 egg
1/3 cup milk
4 ounces unsalted butter, melted
2 ounces marzipan
Zest and juice of 1/2 lime
2 ounces unsalted butter, melted
Confectioners' sugar

For the ice cream:
2 cups milk
2 cups heavy cream
1 teaspoon cardamom seeds, cracked
7 ounces honey
10 egg yolks
1/2-inch piece ginger, peeled and grated
Juice of 1 lemon

For the plum sauce:
5 cups Cabernet Sauvignon
1 cinnamon stick
3 tablespoons honey
2 1/2 pounds pitted Italian plums
Zest of 1 orange
1 tablespoon cornstarch, dissolved in 1
  tablespoon cold water
1 tablespoon plum eau de vie
Sugar to taste

For the garnish:
Confectioners' sugar
Spruce sprigs

Note: Chef Stadtlander suggests making the stollen several days in
advance because the bread softens over time and will be more pliable
when lining the molds.

Roasted Almond and Single Malt Scotch Ice Cream with Apricot Strudel. (Serves 10)

Michael Stadtlander

directions

For the single malt Scotch ice cream: In a large saucepan, bring the milk, cream, vanilla bean, and half the sugar to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer.

In a double boiler, whisk together the remaining sugar and egg yolks until pale and smooth. Remove from the heat and temper the egg yolks, adding one-third of the hot cream while whisking constantly. Mix the tempered egg yolks back into the hot cream and cook, stirring constantly until the cream is thick enough to coat the back of the spoon. Remove from the heat; strain through a tine mesh sieve and set aside in an ice bath. Allow to chill thoroughly. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions. Add the almonds and gently fold to incorporate. Set aside in the freezer until firm. Drizzle the Scotch over the ice cream just before serving.

For the apricot strudel: Pre-heat the oven to 400 degrees. In a medium saucepan, bring the Riesling, sugar, and half the to a boil. Reduce the apricots heat and simmer until thick, about 35 minutes. Transfer to a howl, and set aside to cool completely, cut each of the remaining apricot pieces into thirds and add to the apricot jam. Add the ginger and stir to combine.

Divide the puff pastry into two halves. Place one half of the puff pastry on a lightly floured work surface. To make the base, roll one half of the puff pastry very thin to form a 5 1/2 x 24-inch sheet and set aside. To make the top, roll the remaining puff pastry to form a 4 1/2 x 24-inch sheet. Keep it chilled on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Spoon the cooled apricot filling evenly in the center of the larger sheet of puff pastry, leaving a 1/2-inch border. Brush the edges with egg wash.

Fold the 4 1/2 x 24-inch sheet puff pastry sheet in half lengthwise. Using a paring knife, score along the edge, 1/2-inch long marks, taking care not to cut all the way through. Unfold the scored sheet of puff pastry, and place it on top of the apricot filling. Gently press the edges to seal. Bake until golden, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat, brush with the maple syrup reduction, and return to the oven until golden brown. Keep warm.

To serve: Trim the ends off and cut the strudel into ten equal portions. Set a slice of warm apricot strudel in the center of a plate and dust with confectioners' sugar. Set a scoop of roasted almond and single malt Scotch ice cream to one side and garnish with mint.

ingredients


For the single malt Scotch ice cream:
2 cups milk
2 cups heavy cream
1 vanilla bean, split
1/4 cup single malt Scotch
7 ounces vanilla sugar *
10 egg yolks
3 ounces roasted almonds,
chopped

For the apricot strudel:
1 cup late harvest Riesling
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 pound apricots, pitted
and quartered
1-inch piece ginger, peeled
and grated
1 pound puff pastry dough
1 egg yolk beaten with 1
tablespoon water
1/2 cup maple syrup reduced by half

For the garnish:
Confectioners' sugar
Mint sprigs

* Vanilla sugar is granulated sugar infused with a vanilla bean.

Kashmiri Chai lce Cream with a Rhubarb and Hazelnut Meringue Tart (Serves 8)

For the Kashmiri chai ice cream: In a large saucepan, bring the milk, cream, vanilla bean, and half the sugar to a boil. Remove from the heat, add the Kashmiri chai and Stir gently to combine. Cover and infuse for six minutes. Strain through a fine mesh sieve, discard the tea, transfer the mixture to a medium saucepan, and set aside. In a separate bowl, whisk together the remaining sugar and egg yolks until smooth and pale. Temper the egg yolks, adding one-third of the hot cream while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered eggs into the hot cream and cook, stirring constantly until the cream is thick enough to coat the back of the spoon. Remove from the heat; strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside in an ice bath. Allow to chill thoroughly. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.

For the rhubarb: Combine the rhubarb and sugar in a large bowl. Toss to coat and set aside at room temperature for two hours. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside.

For the tart shell: In an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine all of the ingredients and mix until just combined. Cover the dough with plastic wrap, and set aside at room temperature for two hours. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and roll thin enough to line a lOx1-inch round, non-stick tart pan and gently press to fit the mold. Trim the edges of any excess dough and set aside.

For the hazelnut meringue: In an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites and sugar on high speed to form stiff, glossy peaks. Fold in the hazelnuts and cornstarch until well-combined and set aside.

To finish the tart: Pre-heat the oven to 400 degrees. Spoon the rhubarb into the prepared tart shell and bake in the oven until the crust in golden brown, about 20 minutes. Remove from the oven.

Reduce the oven temperature to 375 degrees. Using a spatula, spread a thin layer of hazelnut meringue over the tart. Bake until the rhubarb is tender and the meringue is golden brown, about 15 minutes. Set aside to cool.

To serve: Set a slice of the rhubarb and hazelnut meringue tart in the center of a plate and dust with confectioners' sugar. Place a scoop of Kashmiri chai ice cream to the side and garnish with mint.

Pinot Gris, Vendange Tardive

Marcel Deiss

Alsace, France 1997

ingredients


For the Kashmiri chai ice cream:
2 cups milk
2 cups heavy cream
1 vanilla bean, split
7 ounces granulated sugar
3 tablespoons loose leaf Kashmiri chai *
10 egg yolks

For the rhubarb:
2 1/2 pounds rhubarb, trimmed and cut into
1/2-inch pieces
3 tablespoons granulated sugar

For the tart shell:
9 ounces all-purpose flour, sifted
7 ounces unsalted butter, chilled and diced
2 ounces granulated sugar
1 large egg, room temperature

For the hazelnut meringue:
5 egg whites
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
5 ounces hazelnuts, roasted and finely ground
1 tablespoon cornstarch, sifted

For the garnish:
Confectioners sugar
Mint sprigs

* Kashmiri chai is a tea made from green tea leaves harvested in
Kashmir, India. The tea is often infused with a mix of whole almonds,
cardamom pods, cinnamon sticks, and cloves. Available in most health
food stores.

Walnut and Maple Croquant Ice Cream with Glazed Apples and Strawberries. (Serves 10)

directions

For the walnut and maple croquant ice cream:

In a medium saucepan, caramelize the maple sugar. Remove from the heat, add the walnuts, and stir until well combined. Quickly turn the walnut and maple croquant onto an oiled sheet pan to cool. When firm, break into small pieces, transfer to a food processor and pulse to form a rough crumb. Transfer to an airtight container and reserve.

In a large saucepan, bring the milk, cream, and vanilla bean to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer. In a double boiler whisk together the maple syrup and egg yolks until thick and pale. Remove from the heat and temper the egg yolks, adding one--third of the hot cream while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered eggs into the hot cream and cook, stirring constantly until the cream is thick enough to coat the back of the spoon. Remove from the heat; strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside in an ice bath. Allow to chill thoroughly Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions. Fold in the walnut and maple croquant pieces just before serving.

For the walnut and maple tuile: Pre-heat the oven to 400 degrees. In an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the maple sugar, bread flour, melted butter, egg whites, and walnuts. Mix until well-combined. Remove the bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and chill in the refrigerator for two hours.

Using a palette knife, spread a thin layer oft tuile mix on a non-stick mat. Form ten long strips. Bake in the oven until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Quickly remove the tuiles from the sheet. While still warm, mold over two rolling pins, creating a curved pattern. Allow to cool and dust with confectioners' sugar.

For the apple cider sauce: In a medium saucepan, bring the apple cider to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until reduced to one cup. Add the Calvados and stir to combine. Set aside at room temperature.

For the glazed apples and strawberries: In a large saute pan, melt the butter. Add the apples and maple syrup and stir to coat. Cover and simmer until tender. Remove from the heat, add the strawberries and mint, toss to coat, and keep warm.

To serve: Evenly divide the glazed apples and strawberries in the center of a plate and spoon some apple cider sauce on top. Set a scoop of walnut and maple ice cream to one side; place a walnut and maple tuile on top and garnish with mint.

Riesling Becrenauslese

Reichsrat Von Buhl

Pfalz, Germany 1999

ingredients


For the walnut and maple corquant ice cream:
1/2 cup maple sugar
4 ounces walnuts, roasted and finely ground
2 cups milk
2 cups heavy cream
1 vanilla bean, split
1/2 cup maple syrup, reduced by half
10 egg yolks

For the walnut and maple tuile:
6 ounces maple sugar
4 ounces bread flour, sifted
4 ounces unsalted butter, melted
5 egg whites
4 ounces roasted and finely ground walnuts
Confectioners' sugar, as needed

For the apple cider sauce:
4 cups apple cider
4 tablespoons Calvados

For the glazed apples and strawberries:
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
10 small apples, peeled, cored,
and quartered
3 teaspoons maple syrup
2 pints strawberries, stemmed and sliced
1 mint sprig, stemmed and julienned

For the garnish:
Mint sprigs

Rosemary and Lavender Honey Ice Cream with Pear and Sesame Seed Crepes

(Serves 10)

directions

For the rosemary and lavender honey ice cream: In large saucepan, bring the milk, cream, rosemary, and half the honey to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer.

In a double boiler whisk together the remaining honey and egg yolks until pale and smooth. Remove from the heat and temper the egg yolks, adding one-third of the hot cream while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered eggs into the hot cream and cook, stirring constantly until the cream is thick enough to coat the back of the spoon. Remove from the heat; strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside in an ice bath. Allow to chill thoroughly. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.

For the pear compote: Chop half the pears into small pieces. In a medium saucepan, bring the pears and Riesling to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until very tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, puree until smooth and strain. Season with sugar and keep warm.

For the crepe: In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, egg, and half the milk until smooth. Add the remaining milk, sesame seeds, and four ounces of melted butter; mix to combine. Add enough of the remaining butter to form a smooth batter the consistency of heavy cream. Set aside in the refrigerator to rest for 20 minutes. Stir until smooth and set aside.

Heat one teaspoon c)f the remaining butter in a non-stick pan over medium heat. Spoon a tablespoon of batter into the pan, swirl to coat the pan evenly, and saute on both sides until golden brown. Transfer the crepe to a parchment-lined sheet pan and reserve, keeping warm. Repeat with the remaining crepe batter.

Heat one teaspoon of maple syrup in a large, non-stick saute pan. Add a crepe and coat evenly on one side with maple syrup, slightly caramelizing. Transfer to a parchment-lined sheet pan, maple syrup side down. Repeat with the remaining crapes and keep warm.

To finish the pear compote: In a large saucepan, bring the pear puree to a simmer. Cut the remaining pears in half lengthwise, and into thin slices. Add the sliced pears and the Pear William to the puree and simmer. Remove from the heat; season with sugar, and keep warm.

To serve: Place a crepe caramelized side down in the center of a plate. Spoon some warm pear compote into the center of each crepe; fold the edges over to enclose. Spoon some rosemary and lavender honey ice cream to one side and garnish with rosemary.

Sauvignon Blanc, Botrytis

Robert Mondavi

Napa Valley, California 1998

ingredients


For the rosemary and lavender honey ice cream:
2 cups milk
2 cups heavy cream
2 sprigs rosemary
1 cup lavender honey
10 egg yolks

For the pear compote:
8 very ripe Anjou pears, peeled and cored
1 cup Riesling
2 tablespoons Pear William brandy
Sugar to taste

For the crepes:
1 cup all-purpose flour, sifted
1 egg
1 cup milk
5 teaspoons sesame seeds
12 ounces unsalted butter, melted
Maple syrup, as needed

For the garnish:
Rosemary sprigs

Note: Chef Stadtlander uses hemp seeds for this recipe, unavailable in
the United States