LOVELY LA JOLLA GLEAMING COASTLINE, CLASSY VILLAGE DEFINE AN EXCLUSIVE VACATION RETREAT.Byline: Eric Noland Travel Editor LA JOLLA La Jolla (lə hoi`yə), on the Pacific Ocean, S Calif., an uninc. district within the confines of San Diego; founded 1869. The beautiful ocean beaches, in particular La Jolla shores and Black's Beach, and sea-washed caves attract visitors and - Developers strain to create new communities that feel old, ones infused with character, dignity, a sense of deep roots. For the model, they look to La Jolla. Good luck. Authenticity is not easily duplicated. This coastal community just north of San Diego San Diego (săn dēā`gō), city (1990 pop. 1,110,549), seat of San Diego co., S Calif., on San Diego Bay; inc. 1850. San Diego includes the unincorporated communities of La Jolla and Spring Valley. Coronado is across the bay. developed its personality in the early 1900s when transplanted, wealthy Easterners settled here and established a seaside village with a Mediterranean ambience. Even now, the place exudes old money. Though within the northern limits of San Diego, it feels as if it should be incorporated - and gated. As with San Marino San Marino, city, United States San Marino (săn mərē`nō), residential city (1990 pop. 12,959), Los Angeles co., S Calif.; inc. 1913. Of interest is the Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens. , Hyde Park Hyde Park, park, London, England Hyde Park, 615 acres (249 hectares) in Westminster borough, London, England. Once the manor of Hyde, a part of the old Westminster Abbey property, it became a deer park under Henry VIII. and Monte Carlo Monte Carlo (môNtā` kärlō`), town (1982 pop. 13,150), principality of Monaco, on the Mediterranean Sea and the French Riviera. , much of its appeal to visitors can be attributed to simple envy. La Jolla's greatest strength is its location. It commands a bluff-top knob that juts over one of the most scenic stretches of Pacific coastline you'll find south of San Simeon San Simeon Former estate of William Randolph Hearst in southern California. It was built on a vast private estate of 245,000 acres (99,000 hectares), developed in the 1860s by Hearst's father. . Narrow roads follow the contours of the land, curving this way and that, presenting a wonderland for leisurely walkers while exasperating drivers. Sidewalks are wide, dotted with towering palms and eucalyptus. Bougainvillea bougainvillea or bougainvillaea (both: b  'gənvĭl`ēə) [for L. A. appears to be the unofficial city flower. Architecture runs the gamut from the soft contours of Spanish Colonial to the stark austerity of cubism cubism, art movement, primarily in painting, originating in Paris c.1907.
Cubist TheoryCubism began as an intellectual revolt against the artistic expression of previous eras. . The climate is divine. At this time of year, fog cools off the mornings, usually giving way to pristine blue skies with soft onshore breezes by midday. Drifting off to sleep in your room at the stately La Valencia Hotel - the distinctive ``pink lady'' that dates to 1926 - or the Irving Gill-designed Bed & Breakfast Inn at La Jolla, you're likely to awaken just after dawn to the sound of screeching gulls. This is a place for making small discoveries. Over a couple of days' visit, you're likely to be enchanted en·chant tr.v. en·chant·ed, en·chant·ing, en·chants 1. To cast a spell over; bewitch. 2. To attract and delight; entrance. See Synonyms at charm. by independent shops and galleries, patio cafes, oceanfront parks, walking paths along the bluff, tide pools, a commendable contemporary-art museum and a serviceable aquarium. Visitors to La Jolla can feel its impact before they get there. Its relative isolation and extreme popularity conspire con·spire v. con·spired, con·spir·ing, con·spires v.intr. 1. To plan together secretly to commit an illegal or wrongful act or accomplish a legal purpose through illegal action. 2. to create some nasty traffic snarls. Torrey Pines Torrey Pines can refer to:
That should provide the first important clue about any navigation of La Jolla: Park your car anywhere in the vicinity of the area you wish to explore and do your rambling on foot. You'll find the town notably pedestrian-friendly. The coast is a good place to start. Just below the heart of the village is La Jolla Cove, where the foresight and philanthropy of one of La Jolla's early matriarchs, Ellen Browning Scripps Ellen Browning Scripps (October 18, 1836–August 3, 1932) was an American philanthropist who was the founding donor of several major institutions in Southern California. , are manifested in an expansive, grassy park that spreads back from the lip of the buff. Head south along the walkway to Children's Pool Beach Children's Pool Beach, or the Casa, or Casa beach, is a small sandy beach located at 850 Coast Boulevard, at the intersection of Jenner Ave, in La Jolla, California. , where most of the sand is off-limits to humans - so that a welcome mat can be spread for harbor seals. Venture out onto the narrow seawall seawall: see coast protection. that juts into the water (steel hand rails will give you a sense of security) and try to spot the heads of the seals as they poke from the water, often resembling scuba divers wearing cowls. Most of these ocean waters - 6,000 acres in all - are protected as the San Diego-La Jolla Underwater Park The San Diego-La Jolla Underwater Park spans 6,000 acres (24 km) of ocean bottom and tidelands. The park has become a popular destination for snorklers and scuba divers. Ecological Reserve, and visitors are forbidden, according to according to prep. 1. As stated or indicated by; on the authority of: according to historians. 2. In keeping with: according to instructions. 3. a sign, from ``disturbing or removing any plant, bird, mammal, fish, mollusk mollusk: see Mollusca. mollusk or mollusc Any of some 75,000 species of soft-bodied invertebrate animals (phylum Mollusca), many of which are wholly or partly enclosed in a calcium carbonate shell secreted by the mantle, a soft or crustacean crustacean (krŭstā`shən), primarily aquatic arthropod of the subphylum Crustacea. Most of the 44,000 crustacean species are marine, but there are many freshwater forms. .'' (And that about covers it.) This makes the waters understandably popular with snorkelers and kayakers. You'll see the former getting into the water on the north side of the cove. Walk a little farther north and you'll reach Gold Fish Point. From a lookout here about 10 stories above the water, we, indeed, could spot perhaps two dozen bright-orange Garibaldi fish just below the surface of the clear waters. You can walk considerable distances along these bluffs, enjoying spectacular panoramas at every bend. An even more popular beach area is La Jolla Shores La Jolla Shores is a beach in La Jolla, California, located at the foot of the residential area of the same name. The beach is approximately one mile long and stretches from the sea cliffs just north of La Jolla Cove to Black's Beach under Torrey Pines State Park. , a broad swath of sandy coast at the north end of town. You'll probably be thrilled to discover that unlike most of Los Angeles' beaches, parking is free here in a sprawling lot of 350 spaces or so. On weekends, of course, demand is high, and a parking derby of sorts plays out. Cars will drive up and down the rows watching for weary families lugging ice chests, damp towels and whining kids. Patient new arrivals will wait 15 minutes for these safaris to pack everything up and illuminate the back-up lights back-up lights npl (US) → luces fpl de marcha atrás . Out on the beach, you can't help but gain a sense of the boundless recreational energy of Californians. From the bluffs at Torrey Pines State Reserve Torrey Pines State Reserve is located within San Diego, California city limits and yet remains one of the wildest stretches of land on the Southern California coast. Two thousand acres (8 km²) of land are as they were before San Diego was developed—with the chaparral south to the edge of La Jolla Cove, you can see them hurling themselves into all kinds of endeavors: hang gliding hang gliding Sport of flying in unpowered aircraft that are light enough to be carried by the pilot. Takeoff is usually achieved by launching into the air from a cliff or hill. Hang gliders were developed by the pioneers of practical flight. , kayaking, bike riding, sailing, surfing, scuba lessons, jogging, bodyboarding, fishing, kite flying. Even if you just want to take a dip, you'll find the ocean conditions generally inviting - and family-friendly. You can venture out 100 yards and still find the water no deeper than 4 feet. Also, on a recent afternoon, the waves were so small and punchless that they couldn't even provide sufficient lift for a 165-pound bodysurfer. At the south end of La Jolla's coast is Windansea Beach Windansea Beach encompasses a historic stretch of scenic coastline located in La Jolla, a community in San Diego, California. It is named after an oceanfront hotel that burned down in the late 1940s. , distinctive for its Polynesian-thatched shade shelter, tide pools and perfectly formed surf breaks. When we visited it one morning, several members of an art class had their easels set up on the bluff and were attempting to capture its sublime beauty with brush strokes. On previous trips, we've stepped among the tide pools just offshore and observed shy, skittering crabs, tiny fish and clingy anemones, but conditions have to be right (on this visit, the lowest tide was at 3 a.m.). A drive along La Jolla's bluffs can be pleasant, but only if undertaken early, before the day-trippers begin pouring in (usually around 10 a.m.). A 2 1/2-mile route, which meanders from Bird Rock on the south to the top of La Jolla Cove, is unmarked (remember, La Jolla is not particularly accommodating to vehicles) but you can pick up maximum coastal views by following this crooked sequence of streets: Camino de la Costa, Palomar Avenue, Neptune Place, Fern Glen, MonteVista Avenue, Marine Street, Olivetas Avenue, Coast Boulevard, Girard Avenue. La Jolla's village is no less inviting than its coastal regions. It has a distinctly European feel to it, with arcades, open-air cafes and the merchandise of some shops spilling onto the sidewalk. Quirkiness is firmly rooted here, too. We saw a young barefoot man walking down Prospect Street with a spear gun over his shoulder. (He was heading for the cove, and undoubtedly couldn't find a parking place close.) At another point along the sidewalk, a woman was offering tarot tarot Sets of cards used in fortune-telling and in certain card games. The origins of tarot cards are obscure; cards approximating their present form first appeared in Italy and France in the late 14th century. card and numerology numerology Use of numbers to interpret a person's character or divine the future. It is based on the assertion by Pythagoras that all things can be expressed in numerical terms because they are ultimately reducible to numbers. readings. In front of a cafe, two older men were engaged in an unhurried game of chess. Wander down any street and you'll likely be enchanted by small bookstores, galleries, cafes, stores. Wherever you roam in La Jolla, you should plan at some point to head down Girard toward the cove, perhaps stopping for one of the fabulous breakfasts or lunches served on the breezy terrace at Cody's. The scene here encompasses the deep blue of the Pacific, the lush green of the park down on the bluff, the burnished bur·nish tr.v. bur·nished, bur·nish·ing, bur·nish·es 1. To make smooth or glossy by or as if by rubbing; polish. 2. To rub with a tool that serves especially to smooth or polish. n. gleam of La Valencia's ancient dome, the gliding forms of sea birds overhead. No wonder La Jolla's visitors so readily embrace its age-old treasures. Strolling among the shops, cafes LA JOLLA -- Hidden gems await the inquisitive in La Jolla's village. Explore without a particular plan and you'll be rewarded. John Cole's Book Shop occupies the Wisteria wisteria (wĭstēr`ēə) or wistaria (–târ`–), any plant of the genus Wisteria, Cottage (780 Prospect St.), a 1904 Craftsman bungalow with a rich history. You know this place is something special when you discover that the sculpture of a supine figure on the lawn is a Henry Moore. Inside, where hallways and former bedrooms provide tucked-away nooks for the shelves, is an impressive collection of books on the history, art and architecture of early California and San Diego. In the children's section are such treasures as all seven volumes of C.S. Lewis' ``The Chronicles of Narnia.'' Cooking and gardening books? Biographies of jazz greats? They're all there, reflecting the personal passions of the proprietors. The Museum of Contemporary Art (700 Prospect St.) has an enviable location overlooking Wipeout Beach. In fact, the picture windows looking west often provide views that upstage the modern works of art hanging alongside them. The museum's permanent collection of art photography was found to be meager mea·ger also mea·gre adj. 1. Deficient in quantity, fullness, or extent; scanty. 2. Deficient in richness, fertility, or vigor; feeble: the meager soil of an eroded plain. 3. , but its rotating exhibitions are consistently exceptional, displayed in a recently expanded wing. Due to open Sept. 22: ``Christo and Jeanne-Claude Christo (born Hristo Yavashev, Bulgarian: Христо Явашев) and Jeanne-Claude (born Jeanne-Claude Denat de Guillebon) are a married couple who create environmental installation art. in the Vogel Collection'' from the National Gallery of Art (through Jan. 5). Visitors will be able to see how the artists employed thousands of square feet of fabric to break the conventional bounds of paint and sculpture. The Whaling Bar at La Valencia Hotel (1132 Prospect St.) is a great place to relax over a drink and appetizers in the late afternoon. With its whaling-hunt mural above the bar, discreet bartending staff and plush booths, it has the throwback throwback see atavism. feel of a 1940s lounge -- which is appropriate, as it was once the stomping grounds of Gregory Peck and other Hollywood escapees. George's at the Cove (1250 Prospect St.) is among the handful of forward- thinking restaurants emerging in San Diego, all the more so since chef Trey Foshee was brought on board four years ago. The establishment offers three tiers of dining: elegant restaurant, rooftop cafe, lounge. The setting in highest demand is the cafe, which is open-air (mitigated by umbrellas, heaters and wind screens) and has a matchless view of the cove at sunset. The cafe doesn't take reservations, however, and can have waits of an hour or more on weekends. We discovered that the same menu -- and much the same view -- is served in the lounge. The Images of Nature Gallery (7916 Girard Ave.) features Thomas D. Mangelsen's brilliant wildlife photography from Alaska and other western points. Although these wares are all displayed for sale, after a few minutes you'll probably conclude that you would gladly have paid admission to browse this collection. Adelaide's Flowers and Gifts (7766 Girard Ave.) overflows with bouquets that greet you at the door. Close your eyes and you're in the south of France South of France south n the South of France → le Sud de la France, le Midi . Warwick's (7812 Girard Ave.) is one of those treasures of an independent bookstore, with an eclectic and robust selection. Staff members have posted a blizzard of synopsis notes to the shelves. This is the kind of store that puts to shame the best-seller-du-jour mentality of the chains. - Eric Noland If you go: Abundance of options at seaside town GETTING THERE: La Jolla is a 120-mile drive from downtown Los Angeles Downtown Los Angeles is the central business district of Los Angeles, California, located close to the geographic center of the metropolitan area. The sprawling, multi-centered megacity is such that its downtown core is often considered just another district like Hollywood or via the Golden State Freeway The Golden State Freeway is a north-south freeway running through Kern County and Los Angeles County, California. Originally built as U.S. Highway 99, it was re-signed as Interstate 5 in 1964. . Exit at La Jolla Village Drive, turn right to Torrey Pines Road, then left to the village and cove. From inland points, head down I-15 to the 163 Freeway south, then take the 52 Freeway west. The 52 dumps out on Ardath Road, which connects to Torrey Pines Road. LODGING: La Valencia Hotel is an elegant option in a prime location - near the restaurants and shops of the west end of the village but still a short walk from the cove. Rooms in the older building tend to be small but very comfortable. The hotel also recently built 15 modern ocean villas on the hill that slopes away from the hotel toward the cove. Rooms start at $300, villas at $775. Information: (800) 451-0772 or (858) 454-0771; www.lavalencia.com. If La Valencia is a little steep for your budget, consider the Bed & Breakfast at La Jolla, housed in a 1913 Irving Gill house that once was home to composer John Philip Sousa and his family. The inn is roughly across Prospect Street from the Museum of Contemporary Art - meaning it's within easy walking distance of the village and cove. Rooms range from $159 to $379, including breakfast. This inn was found to be typically frilly frill n. 1. A ruffled, gathered, or pleated border or projection, such as a fabric edge used to trim clothing or a curled paper strip for decorating the end of the bone of a piece of meat. 2. (wallpaper to blind you!) and the management inordinately fussy (a list of ``don'ts'' as long as your arm), but it was comfortable and has a great location. Before reserving a room, be sure to ask if the massive construction project at the Presbyterian church next door is finished. We weren't informed in advance of this, and were awakened at 6:45 each morning by the sound of rumbling trucks, pounding hammers and power tools. Information: (858) 456-2066; www.innlajolla.com. DINING: Savor the sunset on the rooftop patio at George's at the Cove. Plenty of fresh fish on the menu, with main courses ranging from $10.50 to $18.50. The same menu is served one level down at the bar, which is airy and comfortable. George's also has a fine-dining restaurant. Phone: (858) 454-4244. We enjoyed the comfort-food menu at La Valencia Hotel's Whaling Bar, although the wine list was a real knee-buckler. Also, we couldn't hear each other speak across the table because of the din thrown off by a wedding party of 40. Has this hotel no ballrooms? Said the waiter with a shrug, ``Well, it is a bar.'' Phone: (858) 551-3761. Patio dining for breakfast or lunch is outstanding at Cody's, just a few steps from the cove (8030 Girard Ave.). The eggs Benedict with blue crab claw meat ($11.95) is delectable. For breakfast pastries and gourmet coffee, try Newbreak (928 Silverado St.). Beyond the village, if you're looking for Looking for In the context of general equities, this describing a buy interest in which a dealer is asked to offer stock, often involving a capital commitment. Antithesis of in touch with. sandwiches to take to La Jolla Shores (or for a picnic elsewhere), you can't go wrong with the Cheese Shop (2165 Avenida de la Playa). INFORMATION: Three guidebooks provide helpful information about La Jolla. ``Hidden Coast of California'' (Ulysses Press, $18.95) has comprehensive information about beaches, parks and activities. ``Best Places San Diego'' (Sasquatch Books, $18.95) has a wealth of restaurant information. ``Coastal California,'' Compass American Guides series (Fodor's, $21), offers a glimpse into La Jolla's arts and literary heritage. The San Diego Convention & Visitors Bureau can provide information about La Jolla: (619) 236-1212; www.sandiego.org. - Eric Noland CAPTION(S): 12 photos, 2 boxes, map Photo: (1 -- 2 -- color) La Jolla Cove, top, hums with activity on a typically sparkling afternoon. Just as radiant is La Valencia Hotel, above, the town's ``pink lady'' that dates to the Roaring '20s. Gus Ruelas/Staff Photographer Michael Owen Baker/Staff Photographer (3 -- color) A harbor seal scratches its face - or is that a wave to the crowd? - at Children's Pool Beach. Gus Ruelas/Staff Photographer (4 -- 5 -- color) La Jolla's upscale village isa fun place to stroll and window-shop, while Windansea Beach, left, is often found to be as pretty as a picture. Eric Noland/Travel Editor Gus Ruelas/Staff Photographer (6 -- color) INSIDE: The Birch Aquarium at Scripps gives La Jolla visitors a chance to examine the exotic underwater world of the Pacific Ocean. (7 -- 8) La Jolla offers both ample shoreline to explore, top, and numerous restaurants to sample, above. (9 -- 10) Sun and surf are the order of the day at La Jolla's Windansea Beach, above, while the view from the bluffs above the ocean, left, inspires painters. Gus Ruelas/Staff Photographer (11) The public areas of La Valencia Hotel feature pleasant views of La Jolla Cove. Michael Owen Baker/Staff Photographer (12) The Bed & Breakfast Inn at La Jolla showcases the cubist architecture of Irving Gill, who designed the 1913 house. Eric Noland/Travel Editor Box: (1) Strolling among the shops, cafes (see text) (2) If you go: Abundance of options at seaside town (see text) Map: LA JOLLA |
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