LOVE FROM LEBANON GLENDALE'S MANDALOUN OFFERS EXEMPLARY ARRAY OF ETHNIC DISHES.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

YOU ENTER at what looks like an inconspicuous downtown hotel entrance.

You take the elevator up to Glendale's brand-new, upscale Lebanese dining spot called Mandaloun, where you may eventually come to the conclusion, as I did, that probably you've found the best Lebanese restaurant in these parts, possibly the best in the country.

And actually, that's no surprise, if you're familiar with owner-host Ara Kalfayan, a tall, lean, graying, soft-spoken, Lebanon-born restaurateur who, some years ago, operated an outstanding continental restaurant called Phoenicia, also in Glendale.

Kalfayan, who makes regular trips back to his native country, brings to us traditional and modern Lebanese fare cooked by an excellent chef, Michel Chammaa. The interesting menu is accented with hints of Kalfayan's own Armenian heritage as well as influences from other Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisines.

In keeping with the hottest trend of tapas-like small plates, the Mandaloun menu lists more than 60 of them, both cold and hot, relatively reasonably priced (all under $10 except one, some as low as $4.50) and easily shareable.

They are served in Mandaloun's cleverly designed, large, single dining room emphasizing peach and gold tones, utilizing floor-to-ceiling draped curtains. There's distinctive and artistic lighting and arresting backlit displays of antique-looking Lebanese vases and pots.

The expensively appointed room has a stage for weekend entertainment fronted by a small dance floor.

But it's really the food that's most arresting. It starts with Mandaloun's magnificent, freshly baked, hot pita bread.

Baked daily on the premises from scratch, the pita rounds come forth puffed up and oven hot. They are easily the best I've ever eaten and set the tone for the ensuing dishes from this remarkable kitchen.

The lucky diner here can go exotic and try such intrigues as sauteed fresh dandelion stems with deep-fried onions, a dish titled ``hindbeh'' ($5.95) that reminds of the Eastern European Jewish ``gribenes'' of crispy fried onions, or the pickled Italian eggplant offering called ``makdous'' ($5.95). This is tart and terrific, seasoned with plenty of garlic, also spiced and stuffed with walnuts and cilantro.

Walnuts also come into play in the spicy ``mouhammara'' dip ($5.50), where they're crushed into a bright red paste with red peppers, pomegranate juice and extra virgin olive oil.

If you're not worried about mad cows, as I'm not, you'll love Mandaloun's tartares, especially the ``kibbeh fraki'' ($8.95) rendition, a regional Lebanese specialty that mashes the steak with bulgur, mint, basil, marjoram and onions into another red paste that spreads effectively onto that wonderful pita.

Like quails? Here they're marinated, seasoned, pan-fried and served in spread-eagled twosomes ($9.95) for nifty picking.

Like sausages? Chef Chammaa sends out the typical ``maanek'' Lebanese sausage meat ($6.50) after he sautees it and glazes it with lemon juice. Also, he slices Armenian-style, spicy ``soujouk'' sausage ($6.50) that has been air-dried and serves the slices with diced fresh tomatoes and a light tomato broth.

Popular dips/spreads like hummus ($5.50 separately) and baba ghannouj ($5.95 separately) can be ordered as an assortment ($9.95) with okra and string bean mixtures ($5.95 each separately) and veggie and rice-stuffed grape leaves ($5.95 separately) if you want diversity in one order.

Then there are the variety of ``pizzas'' like lahmajoon ($7.95) and one tasty pizzalike dish called ``kalaj'' ($6.95) topped with cubes of halloum cheese. Also delicious lamb tongue recipes both hot ($6.95) and cold ($6.50).

Shredded lamb and rice (``ouzi,'' $12.95) encased in filo dough is one of the several full-size entrees available.

And there are numerous dessert options, many of them featuring the creamy ``ashta,'' with perhaps ``asmallieh'' ($5.95), a creation topped with shredded wheatlike strands called ``katafi,'' being the most memorable.

Arrive hungry. A meal at Mandaloun is truly a feast.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

MANDALOUN

Food: Four stars

Wine: Three stars - Service: Three and one half stars

Where: 141 S. Maryland St., Glendale.

Hours: Open for lunch and dinner from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. nightly, to midnight Friday and Saturday.

Recommended items: Sauteed dandelions, walnut and red pepper paste, stewed string beans, pickled and stuffed eggplant, fraki steak tartare, yogurt with cucumber, Lebanese and Armenian sausages, spicy potatoes, halloum cheese on crispy dough, hot or cold lamb tongue, shredded lamb with rice in filo dough, ashta cream with shredded wheatlike katafi dough covering.

How much: Appetizers and smaller dishes all under $10 except beef dumplings ($12), entrees from $13 to $22, desserts from $4.50 to $8. Full bar. Major credit cards accepted.

Wine list: Good starting list with wide range of wines from inexpensive Bulgarians selected by the owner to top French and American labels. Corkage: $15.

Reservations: Suggested, especially for weekend nights. Call [phone].

CAPTION(S):

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Photo:

(1 -- 2) Ara Kalfayan, top, owner of Mandaloun in Glendale, beckons diners to his Lebanese restaurant, where the menu offers a pickled eggplant offering called ``makdous,'' above.

Phil McCarten/Staff Photographer