LIKE CLOCKWORK, WATCHES PUT A FACE ON FASHION.

Byline: Barbara De Witt Daily News Staff Writer

For fall '96, you've got to check your wristwatch, often.

We're talking about the dial-a-decade year in fashion: One day you're wearing a drop-waist dress inspired by the '20s, and the next you're in a disco-style polyester pantsuit. With each decade, you'll need different accessories, including wristwatches.

To face up to each retro fashion stance in style, think about the silhouette of the clothes and the mood we were in, said Susie Watson, spokeswoman for the Timex company. Timex is working on a permanent Smithsonian Institution exhibit called ``How Time Became a Part of American Life,'' which it hopes to open before the end of the century.

According to Watson, here's how you can tell what time - or decade - it is:

The '20s: Watches were really small, feminine and fussy. Marcasite was very popular. Look for the ``poor man's diamonds'' sparkling on the faces of dainty watches with black cord bands or the more contemporary look of a silver bracelet.

The '30s: Art deco styles reign, and are noted for oval and rectangular faces with geometric ``stepped'' details on the sides of the case. Like the '20s, the watch is still small and silver. Silver was popular, Watson said, because of the Depression. P.S.: This was also the decade that gave birth to Mickey Mouse pocket watches.

The '40s: Watches are getting a little more sporty, with square and rectangular faces and a curved or arched silhouette. Art deco is still a strong inspiration, but dainty tank styles with gold metal-toned cases and leather bands are emerging.

The '50s: The economy is back on its feet and luxury watches are becoming popular, with jeweled faces and gold and silver metals. But it's also the era of one watch for all purposes, as well as the birth of expansion bands and other Disney character watches.

The '60s: This is the decade that began with dainty ladylike watches, often featuring expansion-style bands, and feminine pendant watches, and ended with jumbo-size pop art-inspired watches. The London-inspired styles had huge round faces on wide interchangeable bands in bright colors and patent leathers.

The '70s: Big-faced dials, especially on bangle bracelets, are still popular, but everything is gold in this decade. As the decade began, watches were still hand-wound, but by the end of the '70s, everybody was talking about digital styles.

The '80s: This is the all-time status watch decade, but it wasn't so much about jeweled faces as pricey sport styles like the Rolex and Cartier tank. During this decade, we saw digital sport watches, with plenty of bells and whistles, and also novelty watches like Swatch.

The '90s: Retro watches, novelty watches and the classics are all back. New ideas of this decade include the Indiglo night-light watch from Timex, which soon became available in numerous brands. Also timely are happy faces on pocket watches and this year's ring watch by Joe Boxer.

With all the hoopla over the '60s, expect to see large faces and silver cases again.

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Photo: Timely news for fall are dainty watches in silver an d gold by Anne Klein that are reminiscent of the '20s.