LAUGHLIN'S BADLANDS EXAMINING NATIVE PREHISTORY ON A HIKE THROUGH GRAPEVINE CANYON.

Byline: Jerry Rice Staff Writer

LAUGHLIN, Nev. - There's lots of history in and around this gambling getaway.

OK, some of it is kitschy, such as the old slot machines on display at the Riverside Resort; and some is functional, including the narrow-gauge railroad at the Ramada Express that enables guests to ride replicas of silver-mining cars.

But some places in the area actually live up to the word ``history,'' and Grapevine Canyon falls firmly into that category.

It's a place where American Indians literally left their mark, perhaps more than 800 years ago. And it's one of several hiking areas just a few miles from the nine hotels and casinos that line the Colorado River in town. The canyon offer diversions from the slots and shows - or simply something to do when you've exhausted your last roll of quarters.

Hikes in Grapevine Canyon, about a 10-minute drive west of Laughlin on Nevada State Route 163, are about as easy as they come. But when we visited - on the first weekend of summer - the easiest thing for my 11-year-old son and I to do was question the sensibility of us taking the hike in the first place. In that morning's newspaper was a story about two hikers who apparently died from heatstroke on a popular Gold Strike Canyon trail near Hoover Dam.

``Gold Strike Canyon is not a good place to hike this time of year,'' said Robin White, a National Park Service ranger who offered to lead our Grapevine tour.

This hike, he assured, would be different. After all, he has taken a number of elementary school groups on field trips to the area. Still, it's not child's play to prepare for a desert hike, especially during the summer. The Clark County coroner's office, which covers the southern part of Nevada, including Laughlin and Las Vegas, attributed 26 deaths last year to heat stress.

Plenty of water, White emphasized, is key to avoiding that fate. He recommended that hikers take a minimum of a gallon for a daylong outing. Others suggest twice that, which could be a workout in itself since a gallon of water weighs about 8 pounds.

For most Grapevine Canyon hikers, taking enough drinking water shouldn't be a problem because of the trek's length and low degree of difficulty. It's a quarter-mile from the small parking area through a mostly flat wash (with a 1 percent to 2 percent grade) to the mouth of the canyon - a short walk that goes back centuries.

There's evidence that prehistoric Indians lived in the area more than 1,200 years ago, finding refuge from the desert sun in one of several rock shelters. The shelters aren't that big (some would have been a tight squeeze for a small family), but crawl inside and the temperature easily drops 20 degrees.

To the north of Grapevine Canyon is Spirit Mountain. At 5,639 feet above sea level, it's the highest peak in the Newberry Mountains. It was sacred ground for the Yuman-speaking people of the lower Colorado River, who believed it was the spiritual birthplace of the tribes.

For them, the area must have been a heavenly place because just about everything the Amacavas (ancestors of the modern-day Mojave) and the Southern Paiutes needed could easily be found. A slow stream of water flows from a small underground spring, as it did way back when, allowing the growth of dozens of plants that are in stark contrast to the barren boulders and hillsides. On this day we found arrow weed, cattails, cottonwood, creosote, willows and even grapevines, for which the canyon is named.

The plants and water, of course, attracted lots of animals. Today, the area is home to badgers, coyotes, bobcats, desert tortoises and at least four varieties of rattlesnakes. During our visit, we spotted a couple of bighorn sheep, jackrabbits, quail and several lizards.

The ancient peoples who lived in the area must have been an inventive bunch. Besides fashioning clothes and some tools from animal skins and plants, among other things, they made soap out of yucca roots.

``We call these primitive people, but they were pretty smart folks to be able to make the things they needed,'' White said. ``Every generation invented something new to make their life a little bit easier.''

Closer to the mouth of the canyon, the hike's main attraction comes into view: petroglyphs.

It's easy to spot human, animal and geometric shapes etched on boulders and cliff faces on both sides of the wash. Brown-colored desert varnish, which has built up on the rocks over the centuries because of minerals in the water, helps many of the petroglyphs really stand out.

Researchers estimate some of the markings were put there 150 to 200 years ago; others are more than 800 years old. More difficult to determine are the meanings. Were they etched as part of a tribal ritual, or do they simply detail day-to-day life?

One thing certain about the petroglyphs is they're fragile, and White pointed out it doesn't take much to wipe out history that is centuries old.

``When you write about the petroglyphs, tell people not to touch them because the oils on their hands will degenerate them,'' he said.

While there is a sign warning visitors it's against the law to deface or destroy the petroglyphs or any other artifacts in the area, there are no barriers keeping visitors away from them. By the way, for those who can't resist tampering, the Archeological Resource Protection Act calls for fines up to $250,000 and five years in prison for violators.

Besides Grapevine Canyon, there are other places to explore close to Laughlin. They include the nearly century-old town of Oatman, Ariz., with gunfighters staging Old West showdowns, saloons with live entertainment and the annual Gold Camp Days celebration on Labor Day weekend.

Closer to town is the Katherine Mine, which produced nearly $2 million in gold and silver between 1900 and 1940. Famed Western author Louis L'Amour worked at the mine for a time in the late 1920s, earning less than $5.50 a day shoveling dirt into an ore car.

The excursions open windows on the area's history, offering unique views of the past for those willing to think outside the slots.

What to know before you go

Here are some tips for people planning to hike in the desert around Laughlin, Nev.

--Schedule your outing in the morning or evening when temperatures are cooler.

--Go with a friend. Hiking alone is not recommended, especially in remote areas.

--Drink water regularly, even if you're not thirsty. A quart of water for every hour you're hiking is a good measure. Bring extra water in case of an emergency.

--Avoid alcoholic and caffeinated drinks that tend to dehydrate you.

--Wear clothing that's appropriate for the desert, such as wide-brimmed hats and items that are loose-fitting. Don't forget to bring warmer apparel to wear after the sun goes down.

--Use sunscreen even when going out for short periods.

--Other things worth bringing include a first-aid kit, compass, map, matches or lighter, and a walking stick.

--Make sure your vehicle is in top condition, with good belts, tires and the proper amounts of oil and coolant.

--Carry a cell phone and make sure someone knows your travel schedule. Let that person know once you return.

--For more tips, read Bruce Grubbs' ``Desert Hiking Tips'' (FalconGuide; $6.95). It's available at bookstores and from www.amazon.com and www.barnesandnoble.com.

Sources: National Park Service, Automobile Club of Southern California and www.Hike-Advice.com.

IF YOU GO

GETTING THERE: Grapevine Canyon is about seven miles west of Laughlin, Nev., on Nevada State Route 163. Take the Christmas Tree Pass Road exit (at mile marker 13) and turn right onto the dirt road. Go about two miles and turn left at the Grapevine Canyon sign.

IMPORTANT TO KNOW: Take plenty of drinking water because none is available along the trail. There's a portable toilet adjacent to the parking area.

INFORMATION: There is no fee to enter the canyon. Visit www.nps.gov, then search for Grapevine Canyon.

LAUGHLIN EVENTS

Laughlin Bud Light Cup, which is part of the Professional Bull Riders tour, Sept. 12-13; Laughlin Team Roping Finals, Nov. 20-23; Cloud's Jamboree, a rock, gem, jewelry, bead and mineral show, Jan. 10-19; Winter Break 2004, a festival featuring bingo, dancing, beach volleyball and other activities for those 50 and older, Jan. 13-16; Laughlin Desert Challenge, an off-road race and sidebar competitions, Jan. 15-18.

Information: [phone]; www.visitlaughlin.com.

CAPTION(S):

3 photos, 3 boxes, map

Photo:

(1 -- 2 -- color) Petroglyphs adorn many of the boulders and cliff faces in Grapevine Canyon, left. The harsh desert environment west of Laughlin, Nev., is a popular hiking spot, below left.

(3) Visitors to Grapevine Canyon will find a beautiful desert landscape just miles from the gambling town of Laughlin, Nev.

Jerry Rice/Staff Photographer

Box:

(1) What to know before you go (see text)

(2) IF YOU GO (see text)

(3) LAUGHLIN EVENTS (see text)

Map:

GRAPEVINE CANYON

Staff graphic