LAST DANCE FIRST CHANCE FOR A GLAM GOWN.

Byline: Barbara De Witt Daily News Fashion Editor

Don't get your pantyhose in a knot or anything, but the dress you said you'd NEVER be caught dead in is this year's prom queen.

You know, that little pastel number that your mom wore back in the '70s. The one with the halter neckline, Empire waist and layers of chiffon that looked so disgustingly wholesome and ladylike you'd never have to worry about being on Mr. Blackwell's hit list.

It even has the same soutache (ask Mom what that means) and daisy trims that Miss America contestants used to wear.

Only this time, around nobody's taking the style seriously. Instead of sheer hose and prim dyed-to-match satin pumps, add pale fishnet stockings or simply slip bare feet into high-heeled mules. A beaded or spangled handbag, a sheer stole, a Holly-Go-Lightly 'do ... maybe a tiara ... and you're prom-perfect for the Class of '97.

No lie. Sophisticated black and white strapless gowns are still stylin', but girlie pastels and halter necklines are the big news.

Big-screen inspiration

``The prom fashion trend to dressing up again started with `Clueless' and keeps gaining momentum,'' said Marie Moss, fashion director of Seventeen magazine. ``There's a fairy tale-like theme going on that's inspired by young actresses like Gwyneth Paltrow and Claire Danes in both real life - they wouldn't show up for an interview in torn jeans - and their movies.

``From `Emma' you've got pastels and Empire waistlines, and from `Romeo and Juliet' are more ethereal gowns. It's all about having one big chance to dress like Cinderella, with a ball gown and even a tiara - which this year you'll find decorated in everything from vintage rhinestones to artificial flowers and jewels.''

Macy's spokeswoman Merle Goldstone calls it ``a new height of sophistication, and a reflection of fashion's general swing toward prettiness.''

Translation: ``Gowns will be almost universally long in length (even if they're short in front) again, and will feature satin, layers of chiffon and even hints of velvet in fresh spring shades of lilac, mint, lime, aqua and butter,'' she said of the '70s-inspired dance dresses.

Darker side of prom

For those who thumb their nose at the fashion police and pastels, there's a rock frock alternative. According to Goldstone, on the cutting edge is a tight black stretch fabric gown with a Halston or Gucci-inspired one-shoulder design and a rhinestone choker. It's an example of how fashion tastes have changed, said Moss, who commented that the same sexy black dress would have been hardly noticed on the dance floor a few years ago.

Whichever look you go for - Tinkerbell or Tank Girl - jewelry is minimal and the focus is on chokers, cuff bracelets worn on the upper arm and big cocktail rings. Ditto on the minimalist approach to makeup, which is pale nails, lips and eyes with a little glitter goo rubbed on the shoulders (more of that ethereal look).

Although furs are making a comeback on the runways and at the Oscars, fashion-savvy prom-goers are wrapping up in pastel feather boas, shrunken cardigan sweaters (especially the beaded kind from thrift stores) and sheer stoles.

``If you've spent all your money on the dress, just buy two yards of tulle and wrap it around you,'' suggests Moss.

Tuxedo junction

So what's the guy going to wear?

``Tails and white dinner jackets are passe, and the cummerbund is dead,'' says Stephen Tam, the prom expert at Gingiss Tuxedo in Glendale. What's hot are basic black, single-button tuxedos with a pastel high-button vest to match the girl's dress, or a Mandarin-collared tuxedo with a high-button vest and white Mandarin collar shirt. And instead of the butterfly tie, there's a trend to the Euro tie, which is long and sticks out from the collar.

Taking their cue from movie stars such as Tom Cruise, guys also are wearing dressy black suits with a white shirt and business tie (like the bow tie, it matches the girl's dress). Formal tuxedo pumps are occasionally rented, but Tam says local teens are more likely to wear black-and-white Hush Puppies, Doc Martens or black platform boots.

Now for the flowers. Moss says orchids and gardenias are a fashion faux pas, so be sure to get her rosebuds on a wrist corsage or a teeny nosegay bouquet that she'll carry with her to the dance. If she forgot to tell you what color to buy, be safe and get pink.

For his boutonniere, get a carnation or rosebud in the same color as your gown.

Dance details

Hot for '97 proms:

Girlie pastels

'70s silhouettes

Satin and chiffon

Tiaras and chokers

Tiny beaded evening bags

Small rosebud bouquets

Mules or strappy sandals

CAPTION(S):

7 Photos, Box

Photo: (1--Cover--Color) ON THE COVER are Grant High School students Ness Prutman and Karina Uchitel. Fashions were provided by Jessica McClintock and Gary's Tux Shop.

(2--Color) Pastels are the big news in prom gowns, modeled by Amanda Litt, left, and Leetal Adri of Grant High School.

(3--Color) Merav Vardi goes for the fairy-tale princess look at Grant High School's fashion show. Her escort is classmate Jason French.

(4--Color) Cutting-edge alternatives to the traditional tuxedo and gown are a business tie with vest worn by William Yi and a strapless cut-away gown by Jessica McClintock for Gunne Sax, modeled by Julina Harmandjian at Grant High's pre-prom fashion show.

John McCoy/Daily News

(5--Color) Satin shines this season in a halter-neck gown with chiffon skirt, left, by Night Way at Robinsons-May, and a long slip dress with matching chiffon stole by Jessica McClintock for Gunne Sax at JC Penney.

(6--Color) Starry nights call for drama, like this velvet-striped gown by Zum Zum from Windsor Fashions, modeled at a recent Glendale Galleria fashion show. Her escort's ensemble is from Gingiss Tuxedo.

(7--Color) Prom gowns have a minimum of froufrou, but plenty of dressmaker details such as the criss-cross straps, left, and boned bodices. Both are from the Jessica McClintock boutique at the Glendale Galleria.

David Crane/Daily News

Box: DANCE DETAILS (See Text)