LASHER'S SHOULD KEEP EYE ON THE CULINARY BALL.Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic Expectations were high for the initial visit to the new Lasher's Steakhouse in Burbank. This was because Lasher's has forged such a good reputation in Long Beach. The Zagat Survey describes the original Lasher's as "a homey and wonderful experience" serving "high-end comfort food." The new restaurant in Burbank, situated across the street from City Hall, is far from homey. It's nicely designed in a warm, clubby club·by adj. club·bi·er, club·bi·est 1. Typical of a club or club members. 2. Friendly; sociable. 3. Clannish; exclusive. manner, looks expensive and would seem to be the kind of place where the movers and shakers of downtown Burbank could meet for power lunching, or later in the day, for drinks and dinner. High and low notes As for comfort fare, that probably means the signature cranberry-glazed meatloaf ($21), one of the house specialties, also its "award-winning" New England clam chowder New England clam chowder n. A thick soup made with clams, onions, salt pork, potatoes, and milk. Noun 1. New England clam chowder - a thick chowder made with clams and potatoes and onions and salt pork and milk ($8). At first encounter, neither, sad to say, encourages raves. The meatloaf, obviously of good flavor, unfortunately possesses a mushy texture on our visit. And the clam chowder chowder, stew of fish or shellfish with potatoes, onions, and pork (usually salt pork), thickened with crumbled hard bread. The name chowder seems to have originated from the French word chaudière is extremely floury. But three of Lasher's starters deserve a strong thumbs-up. Fat, juicy, day-boat sea scallops ($11), firm and sweet, arrive wrapped in apple- smoked bacon with whole-grain mustard sauce. Fried green tomatoes ($8) in a Cajun-seasoned butter sauce are top-crisped effectively with a bread-crumb mixture then caped with sliced andouille an·dou·ille n. A spicy smoked sausage made with pork and garlic, used especially in Cajun cooking. [French, from Old French andoille, from Medieval Latin *inductilia, sausage. And cool, crunchy, romaine lettuce hearts and leaves ($8) come to the table draped in a creamy Point Reyes crumbled bleu cheese dressing Noun 1. bleu cheese dressing - creamy dressing containing crumbled blue cheese blue cheese dressing dressing, salad dressing - savory dressings for salads; basically of two kinds: either the thin French or vinaigrette type or the creamy mayonnaise type . New York New York, state, United States New York, Middle Atlantic state of the United States. It is bordered by Vermont, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and the Atlantic Ocean (E), New Jersey and Pennsylvania (S), Lakes Erie and Ontario and the Canadian province of bias Yet there's no New York steak on Lasher's menu. A couple of filets, a ribeye, a flat iron and a porterhouse are listed. But no New York. So a sirloin culotte ($29) is recommended instead. A spherical piece of beef is delivered. Not particularly flavorful, it's also tough to chew. Consequently, most of it goes home to be enjoyed by the dog. However, the braised braise tr.v. braised, brais·ing, brais·es To cook (meat or vegetables) by browning in fat, then simmering in a small quantity of liquid in a covered container. short ribs ($26), another house specialty, are wonderful on another night. Perched atop a bed of mashed potatoes surrounded by the meat's natural reduction juices in a deep white bowl, the generously portioned braised beef and its accompanying vegetables offer rich, gratifying grat·i·fy tr.v. grat·i·fied, grat·i·fy·ing, grat·i·fies 1. To please or satisfy: His achievement gratified his father. See Synonyms at please. 2. flavors and textures. It's the perfect dish to pair with a Rhone-style red wine. Which we do. Lasher's rendition of New Zealand rack of lamb Noun 1. rack of lamb - a roast of the rib section of lamb crown roast rack - rib section of a forequarter of veal or pork or especially lamb or mutton lamb roast, roast lamb - a cut of lamb suitable for roasting ($38) is a pretty picture of neatly arranged chops and asparagus on that same evening. Pinkish-red, the chops appear meaty, moist, tender, although a trifle bland. Thin green spears of asparagus are, however, woefully woe·ful also wo·ful adj. 1. Affected by or full of woe; mournful. 2. Causing or involving woe. 3. Deplorably bad or wretched: dry and slightly woody. And there is no available hollandaise sauce. A pleasant ending can be the molten chocolate cake Molten chocolate cake is a popular dessert that combines the elements of a flourless chocolate cake (sometimes called a "chocolate decadence cake") and a soufflé. History The U.S. ($8) paired with a scoop of cappuccino ice cream. The new Burbank Lasher's has plenty of potential. It will probably improve with time. It may however, need to define itself a little differently from its Long Beach forbear for·bear 1 v. for·bore , for·borne , for·bear·ing, for·bears v.tr. 1. To refrain from; resist: forbear replying. See Synonyms at refrain1. . High expectations are never easy to meet. Larry Lipson, (818) 713-3668 larry.lipson@dailynews.com LASHER'S AMERICAN STEAKHOUSE Food: Two and one half stars - Service: Three stars - Wine: Three stars Where: 250 E. Olive Ave., Burbank. Phone: (818) 843-8800. www.lashersrestaurant.com. Meals/hours: Open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. weekdays, for dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. nightly. Food type: American. Cost: Starters from $8 to $13, entrees from $19 to $44, desserts $8. Credit cards: All major. Patio dining: Yes, in front. Parking/valet: Street and valet. Full bar: Yes. Wine/corkage: Extensive, vintage-dated list. Numerous wines with three-digit prices, few in the $20s. Some 20 wines by the glass from $7 to $30. Corkage: $15 per bottle. For each bottle purchased, corkage per bottle waived. Music/entertainment: Piano entertainment Friday and Saturday. Takeout/delivery: Yes on takeout, no on delivery. Reservations: Helpful. CAPTION(S): 2 photos Photo: (1 -- 2) Above, a lamb chop with asparagus at Lasher's Steakhouse in Burbank. Below, owner Ray Lasher and Chef James Grey hope to replicate the success of the Lasher's in Long Beach. John McCoy/Staff Photographer |
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