LAND OF ENCHANTMENT, INDEED 84-MILE SCENIC DRIVING LOOP GUARANTEES YOU'LL BE COMIN' 'ROUND THE MOUNTAIN IN TAOS.

Byline: Eric Noland Travel Editor

TAOS, N.M. - The driving route picks its way through stream-fed canyons, climbs through 9,000-foot mountain passes and crosses high-elevation valleys fringed with evergreens. Its spur roads take in the natural wonder of granite palisades, the historical significance of the Santa Fe Trail and the engineering marvel of a river gorge bridge.

This is northern New Mexico's Enchanted Circle, an 84-mile driving loop that curls out of Taos and completely encircles Wheeler Peak, at 13,161 feet the highest point in the state.

It can provide a pleasant day trip during a stay in Taos - or a diversion of a couple of hours, if you want to explore only a portion of it. The circle, formed by highways 64, 38 and 522, lies almost entirely inside the boundaries of Carson National Forest, and the lushness and diversity of the vistas account for much of its appeal. Various side trips can obviously tack on more miles, but each has merit.

To begin, head east from Taos on Highway 64. The road first climbs through an idyllic canyon to Palo Flechado Pass, then spills onto a broad mountain valley.

Just past the town of Agua Fria and its Angel Fire ski area is the Vietnam Veterans National Memorial, which clings to a hillside and feels appropriately forlorn when the winds of late autumn whip across it. Begun as a simple chapel by a local man, Victor Westphall, whose son was killed in combat in 1968, it grew to a memorial honoring all veterans of that conflict. Its visitors center includes extensive computer files of service people missing or killed in action, and staff members stand ready to assist anyone conducting a search.

A little farther on is Eagle Nest Lake, where you're usually treated to a postcard view of Wheeler Peak to the west. The Enchanted Circle continues north on Route 38 here, but for an enjoyable side trip, head east on Route 64. About nine miles from the junction is Cimarron Canyon State Park, where you can stand at the base of a palisades sill - a spectacularly sheer monzonite cliff face. The Cimarron River, not much more than a creek here, babbles past at your feet.

Still farther east (24 miles from the Eagle Nest junction) is the town of Cimarron, formerly a stop on the Santa Fe Trail. Wander just a short distance south of town on Route 21 and you'll parallel the rutted, dirt remnant of that once-popular route. You can't miss the St. James Hotel, built in 1880 to serve trail travelers.

Back on the Enchanted Circle at Eagle Nest, the road circles north through 9,820-foot Bobcat Pass to the former mining settlement of Red River. You might want to pass quickly through this town, which buries the tourist-meter needle with establishments that exploit its heritage - Pioneer this, Ponderosa that, a Bull O' the Woods Saloon, some cartoonish storefronts and a shop that surely doesn't date to mining days: the T-Shirt Shack.

The sights along this stretch are memorable, though, as the road snakes along the bottom of the Red River gorge.

This landscape gives way to something entirely different at the town of Questa. Here, you turn south on Route 522 and begin to cross the high-desert mesa that stretches out from the western flanks of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains.

On your return to Taos, two other side trips await.

One winds its way up another picturesque canyon to Taos Ski Valley (Route 150); it's a pretty drive even after the spring warmth melts the snow.

Another juts west on Highway 64 to the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge. This attraction is spectacular, but should be explored advisedly if you suffer from acrophobia.

The steel-deck truss bridge spans a 1,200-foot-wide gap of the precipitously steep gorge, and it is pedestrian-friendly. You can park at one end and walk along a foot path to the center of the bridge, at which time you might wonder if that 4-foot railing is really tall enough to be sufficient. The vertical drop to the river is 600 feet - that's roughly akin to standing atop St. Louis' Gateway Arch and peering over the edge.

The real adventure begins when an 18-wheel truck comes rumbling across the span. This highway is the main route from Taos to Farmington, so it gets quite a bit of commercial traffic. There is no divider between the lanes of traffic and the foot path, and the bridge vibration generated by that truck will likely be matched by the wobbling in your knees.

Just beyond the bridge to the west is a picnic ground, with walking trails along the rim of the gorge.

IF YOU GO

GETTING THERE: Taos, N.M., is a 124-mile drive north of Albuquerque on I-25 and highways 599 (the Santa Fe bypass), 285, 84 and 68. It is a 67-mile drive north of Santa Fe via the latter three highways.

COSTS: The Museum Association of Taos is a confederation of seven prominent museums in town, including all five art museums mentioned in the accompanying story. Its Web site, www.taosmuseums.org, has links, phone numbers and, most important, days and hours that each is open - there is a wide variance (most are closed Mondays). If you're up for a concerted museum crawl during your visit, be sure to purchase a $20 Museum Combo Ticket, which will admit you to all seven. Available at any of the participating museums, it is good for one year (though it permits just one visit per museum). Also, incredibly, it's transferable - if you can't make it to all seven, you can pass it on to a friend or relative.

LODGING: The Historic Taos Inn is a wonderful lodging option, just a quarter block north of the Taos Plaza on Paseo del Pueblo Norte. It's partially housed in the former home and office of Dr. Thomas Martin, who was Taos' only physician at the turn of the 20th century. It is casual, well-worn and affordable - rooms from $60 in low season. For maximum quiet, specify a room facing the rear courtyard (from $100). Many rooms have pueblo-style fireplaces. Reservations: [phone]. Inn: [phone]. Web: www.taosinn.com. The Laughing Horse Inn, on the northwest edge of town along Highway 64, is a quirky establishment that has the feel of one of its former incarnations, a hippie crash pad - although now scrupulously clean. All 10 rooms in the main building (from $47) share baths. For a private bath, inquire about the penthouse or guest houses (from $115). Rates include breakfast. Information: [phone], [phone], www.laughinghorseinn.com.

DINING: Doc Martin's, the restaurant at the Taos Inn, was found to be superb, both for dinner and breakfast. The Southwest stylings of chef Scott Radek reign supreme here, from blue corn-dusted trout ($12.50) to a platter of delicious rellenos ($14.50). The wine list includes New Mexico selections, and while you might be tempted to try one of the whites from Jory of Sierra County, the margaritas - 10 on the menu - are difficult to resist. The ingredients in the Del Dia change daily, as the name would suggest. Information: [phone]. The primary asset of Ogelvie's Bar & Grille is its second-floor perch overlooking the plaza. It serves up extremely hearty portions and has a lively bar. Information: [phone]. For casual breakfast or lunch in a family establishment that is the antithesis of a nondescript chain restaurant, join the locals at Michael's Kitchen at the north end of town: [phone].

INFORMATION: The Taos County Chamber of Commerce's Web site, www.taoschamber.com, has a comprehensive section devoted to tourism. Phone: [phone]. Free vacation guides are available.

CAPTION(S):

3 photos, box, map

Photo:

(1) Enchanted Circle drive passes through the steep-walled Red River gorge north of Taos.

(2) The Historic Taos Inn is housed in the former home of a Taos doctor. Its restaurant and bar are popular gathering spots.

(3) Guests at the quirky Laughing Horse Inn can gather in the evening in a cozy living room.

Eric Noland/Travel Editor

Box:

IF YOU GO (see tezt)

Map:

TAOS' ENCHANTED CIRCLE DRIVE