LALA'S RE-CREATES ARGENTINA.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

The tortilla may be entirely different from the one we're familiar with, but as more and more Argentine cafes appear on our boulevards, we may eventually be referring to a tortilla as being of one heritage or the other.

At the San Fernando Valley's latest Argentine eatery, Lala's in Studio City, a second location of the restaurant of the same name on Melrose Avenue in Hollywood, the tortilla translates into a quichelike wedge of potato and onion pie, not even remotely like the Mexican corn-flour pancake or crepe we know so well.

Yet, those of us who've traveled may remember that tortilla in most Spanish-speaking countries usually means omelet.

But the popular Argentine recipe definitely looks more like potato and onion pie, and it's usually served cold.

At Lala's it can be ordered separately ($2.50) or as part of the combination appetizer plate ($9.95) that carries three tasty empanadas (choose your filling from four options) and chorizo (a grilled sausage).

Also on the table, of course, is a container of marvelous chimichurri sauce, the tart, spicy, bright green dipping mixture that makes just about anything taste better.

It'll spice up an otherwise bland, sometimes burnt, melted provolone cheese offering called provoleta ($4.95) or slightly tough beef sweetbreads termed mollejas ($4.95).

The soup here, a carrot and potato puree ($3.25), is a better starter choice. Or try a Greek-style lettuceless salad titled ensalada Griega ($5.75), big enough to share, containing cucumber, red onion, tomato, olives, red and green bell pepper and a sprinkling of feta cheese.

I like Lala's chicken dishes, especially the grilled half-chicken dubbed pollo a la brasa ($6.95). It's lemon-orange marinade gives its skin a welcome citrus flavor, and with the kitchen's good mashed potatoes, you receive a hearty, savory entree for a bargain price.

Almost in the same league is the ``provenzal'' chicken breast plate ($7.95), nice and garlicky and another well-portioned opportunity for under $10.

The traditional Argentine beef cutlet called milanesa ($8.95) generally gives a good idea of kitchen expertise. Is it too thin? Too thick? Chewable? Flavorful? Oily?

Lala's comes up almost perfect, unfortunately lacking in heat one time, but triumphant in every other category. With well-executed fries, the milanesa can easily be the ultimate South American bistro dish.

A true cafe, Lala's sells sandwiches, pastas and a trio of fish items. But its main thrust, being faithful to its Argentine direction, is beef.

Consequently, there are plenty of steak options (ribeye, New York, filet mignon, skirt) with each cut offered various ways.

With mashed potatoes or fries usually favored over rice, you have an honest-to-goodness meat and potatoes eatery.

Lala's smart menu planners have made sure there are enough salads, too, and a trio of vegetarian items to satisfy the dieter who may be accompanying a macho beef-eating customer.

As for sweet endings, of eight possibilities I'd recommend the panqueque con dulce de leche ($3.95) - the delicious caramel custard crepe - or the creamy almond ice cream dessert topped with a warm chocolate charlotte sauce listed as ``almendrado charlotte'' ($4.95).

Argentine and Chilean wines will be available as soon as Lala's receives its license. So will Quilmes beer from Argentina, Cristal from Peru and Pacena from Bolivia.

Beverages that will, no doubt, complement beefy fare.

And, of course, the soon-to-be-familiar, Argentine-style tortilla.

LALA'S ARGENTINE GRILL

Where: 11935 Ventura Blvd., Studio City. (Also in Hollywood at 7229 Melrose Ave.)

When: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily, to midnight Friday and Saturday.

Recommended items: Carrot and potato soup, empanadas, combination appetizer plate, Greek salad, half pollo a la brasa, breast of chicken a la provenzal, beef milanesa, panqueque con dulce de leche, almendrado charlotte.

How much: Starters and salads from $2 to $10, pastas and entrees from $7 to $19, desserts from $3.50 to $5. Beer and wine license pending. All major credit cards.

Reservations: Helpful. Call [phone].

Our rating: Three stars for food; three stars for service; three and one half stars for value.

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Photo:

Generous portions of skillfully prepared Argentine fare are presented by manager Guillermo Etcheberry and waiters Christina Schaltinat and Wes Lagatta at Lala's in Studio City.

Gene Blevins/Special to the Daily News