LABOR DAY BASICS IT JUST WOULDN'T BE A HOLIDAY WEEKEND WITHOUT COLESLAW AND POTATO SALAD.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Potato salads and coleslaws are naturals at Labor Day barbecues or picnics, with a wide range of flavors complementing grilled hot dogs, steaks, hamburgers, chicken and fish.

These favorite side dishes come dressed in numerous ways-- ranging from curried and Greek renditions to those with Asian and Mexican overtones.

You'll find cubes of red, yellow, white, purple or other potatoes or shredded red, green, Savoy or Napa cabbages tossed with plain mayo, Miracle Whip, sour cream, yogurt, buttermilk, oils, vinegars, and lemon, lime or orange juices -- and jazzed up with glorious accents like yellow, Dijon or grainy mustards, dill or sweet pickles, pickle relishes, celery, green, red or white onions, radishes, chopped red or green peppers, tomatoes, celery, jicama or hard-cooked eggs, cucumbers, carrots, green beans, black beans, olives, horseradish, chutneys, cooked bacon, prosciutto, salami, feta, blue or other cheeses, freshly chopped chiles, garlic, fresh or dried fruits, nuts, assorted fresh herbs and seasonings and more. The sky's the limit as both potatoes and cabbages are neutral palates waiting for creative cooks' artistic interpretations.

When it comes to the kind of potato to use, expert opinions vary. Some prefer red-skin or white new potatoes (which are lower in starch) while others use Yukon gold, Idaho or russets (higher-starch potatoes). But in the end, it's really up to the cook.

``What kind of potato you use depends on the kind of salad you're making,'' says Joanne Weir, the San Francisco-based author of more than a dozen cookbooks and host of the new television cooking series ``Joanne Weir's Cooking Class,'' which recently debuted locally on KCET.

``For a traditional potato salad, I use russet potatoes because I like that starchiness. The potatoes are soft on the outside and a little fluffy and more mealy inside.'' Sometimes she also uses red potatoes or Yukon gold. < While some prefer boiling the potatoes covered with water (unpeeled), others like to microwave, roast or grill them.

Whatever you decide, avoid overcooking so the potatoes won't disintegrate when cut up and tossed with the dressing, cautions Weir.

In a potato salad article in the August/September issue of Fine Cooking magazine, Weir suggests roasting potatoes instead of boiling them. You end up with a crunchy-on-the-outside and soft-on-the-inside texture. Then mix the potatoes with bright summer veggies and an olive-oil based dressing.

Among her favorite roasted potato salad combos: crispy prosciutto, sliced gherkins and a mustard vinaigrette; green beans, crumbled feta, olive oil, lemon juice and mint sprigs; shaved fennel, capers, chives, orange juice and zest, oil, vinegar and thyme. For all her tempting creations, Weir favors using the freshest possible ingredients and treating them simply.

Weir's favorite potato salad dressing (for non-roasted potato salads) is equal amounts of yogurt, mayonnaise and sour cream with chopped mint, basil, parsley and green onions, white wine vinegar or lemon juice. But she also loves an oil-vinegar, Dijon mustard and garlic combination to dress slices or small wedges of red potatoes, green beans and pickled red onions (place thin slices in red wine vinegar and salt 10 minutes to pickle).

For best results, Weir prefers making and serving potato salads the same day.

``I'm a sucker for slaw,'' says Allison Ehri, test kitchen associate, Fine Cooking magazine, in a coleslaw article, also in the August/September issue. ``I think it's the juicy crunch that really gets me.''

If slaws are not prepared properly, you end up with heavy, soggy and overly sweet results, she notes.

``I've found that the secret to a great slaw is to make it feel lighter and more like a fresh salad, which is easy to do by just learning a few simple tricks.''

She adds vegetables like carrots, celery root and jicama to the cabbage for crunch and brightness.

While you can slice slaw ingredients by hand, rely on a food processor to do the job in seconds, suggests Ehri. Although she avoids using presliced cabbages/cole slaw mixes, if you must use them, make sure they are really fresh.

She also uses a dressing made with fresh citrus juice (like lime) and mayonnaise or another with buttermilk, a little oil and lemon juice, etc. to give a lighter feel. Balance acid with the creamy element, she recommends, and perk up dressings with fresh herbs such as cilantro, chives, parsley, basil or mint.

Most importantly, she purges the vegetables, red and green, Napa or Savoy cabbage, carrots, celery root and onions) of excess water, a step that makes them tender and briny and ensures the slaw doesn't become too wet once dressed.

``The purging technique is one I learned while I worked as a cook in restaurants in New York and I still use it. I like the texture of the vegetables. They are still quite crunchy, but softer and the salt is integrated into them.

``If I were to make cole slaw without purging, I would slice everything much thinner,'' she adds.

Ehri also recommends serving slaws within an hour of assembly. If using Napa cabbage, serve immediately.

Natalie Haughton, [phone]

natalie.haughton(at)dailynews.com

TANGY COLESLAW

1 small red cabbage (about 1 pound), cored and thinly shredded (about 4 cups) (see Note)

1 small white (green) cabbage (about 1 pound), cored and thinly shredded (about 4 cups) (see Note)

3 medium carrots, grated

1 1/2 teaspoons Dijon-style mustard

1 cup plain low-fat yogurt

1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves

4 green onions (white and green parts), finely chopped

2 tablespoons white wine OR cider vinegar 

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a large salad bowl, toss together the two cabbages. Add carrots and mix well. Add mustard, yogurt, parsley and green onions and mix with salad tongs or a wooden spoon. Add vinegar and salt and pepper to taste and toss. The slaw can be made 2 to 3 hours ahead of time; cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Makes 6 servings

NOTE: Shred cabbage with a long, sharp knife, grate it on the largest hole on a box grater, or use grater attachment on a food processor.

VARIATIONS: Add one or more of the following: 1 cup raisins, golden raisins, sun-dried cranberries OR dried cherries; 1 cup coarsely chopped toasted walnuts OR almonds; 1/4 cup minced fresh basil, thyme OR chives; 3 slices crumbled crisp-cooked bacon; several dashes of hot pepper sauce; 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest and 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice; OR 1/4 cup olive oil for a moister slaw.

From ``Stonewall Kitchen Favorites,'' by Jonathan King, Jim Stott and Kathy Gunst.

GREEK POTATO SALAD

4 medium Idaho potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch chunks

8 ounces green beans, stem ends trimmed, cut into 1-inch lengths

3/4 cup buttermilk

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 large cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded and thinly sliced

1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved

1 medium red onion, halved and thinly sliced

1/4 cup snipped fresh dill

4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled

In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook potatoes about 12 minutes, until crisp-tender. Add green beans and cook 2 minutes longer. Drain well.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk together buttermilk, olive oil, lemon zest, lemon juice and salt. Add potatoes and green beans and toss gently to coat.

Add cucumber, tomatoes, red onion and dill; tossing gently. Cool to room temperature. Serve at room temperature or cover and refrigerate until serving time. At serving time, spoon onto a platter and sprinkle feta over.

Makes 8 servings.

COLESLAW WITH PEANUTS

1 (16-ounce) package refrigerated coleslaw (shredded cabbage and shredded carrots)

1 1/2 cups shredded red cabbage (purchase already shredded in package in produce section)

3/4 cup finely sliced celery

1/3 cup finely chopped green onions

1/3 cup red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon water

1 tablespoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon seasoned salt

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1/3 cup vegetable oil

Garlic pepper to taste

1 cup dry roasted peanuts

In a large mixing bowl, combine coleslaw, red cabbage, celery and green onions. In a small bowl, whisk together wine vinegar, water, sugar, seasoned salt, garlic powder and oil. Mix dressing with coleslaw; stir in garlic pepper and peanuts and toss well. Refrigerate until serving.

Makes 6 servings

A Daily News copycat version from a coleslaw sampled at Wood Ranch BBQ & Grill.

AMERICAN-STYLE POTATO SALAD WITH EGGS AND SWEET PICKLES

2 pounds red OR new potatoes, boiled, peeled if desired, and cut into 3/4-inch cubes

2 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon kosher salt OR 1/2 teaspoon table salt

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

3 hard-cooked eggs, cut into small dice

2 to 3 green onions, sliced thin (about 1/2 cup)

1 small celery stalk, cut into small dice (about 1/2 cup)

1/4 cup small diced sweet pickle (not relish)

1/2 cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard

1/4 cup minced fresh parsley

Layer warm potato cubes in a medium bowl. Sprinkle with vinegar, seasoning with salt and pepper as you go. Mix in remaining ingredients. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Adjust seasonings and serve chilled.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.

From, ``The Perfect Recipe,'' by Pam Anderson.

POTATO-EDAMAME SALAD

3 pounds Idaho potatoes, scrubbed, peeled, if desired, and cut into 1-inch cubes

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 cups frozen edamame (soy beans), cooked according to package directions

1/2 cup finely chopped red onion

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

3/4 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup rice wine vinegar (OR white wine vinegar)

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 1/2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

1 teaspoon wasabi powder

1/2 teaspoon red curry paste

In a medium stockpot, in water to cover and over high heat, cook potato cubes about 15 minutes, or until fork-tender. Drain potatoes, then toss with olive oil and set aside.

In a large mixing bowl, combine cooked edamame, red onion and ginger. Add potatoes and set aside.

Prepare dressing: In a small mixing bowl, whisk together mayonnaise, rice wine vinegar, soy sauce, toasted sesame oil, wasabi powder and red curry paste until blended. Add dressing mixture to potato mixture and stir well with a wooden spoon to combine.

Makes 8 servings

Shared by Cindie Henf, Sebastian, Fla.

HERB POTATO SALAD

6 medium red potatoes, cut into sixths (do not remove skin)

1 cup light sour cream

1/4 cup reduced-calorie mayonnaise

4 to 6 green onions, finely chopped, green part included

1/4 of a 2/3-ounce package OR about 1/4 bunch fresh baby dill, chopped

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon white pepper

Cook potatoes in salted boiling water until tender (about 10 minutes); drain and cool. In a large bowl, combine sour cream with remaining ingredients. Toss with potatoes and refrigerate until serving time. Make at least 3 hours ahead of serving.

Makes 4 servings

A Daily News replica version from a potato salad sampled at the Gelson's market takeout deli.

VEGETABLE COLESLAW

1 pound white cabbage (1/2 small head)

3/4 pound red cabbage (1/2 small head)

5 carrots

2 cups mayonnaise

1/4 cup Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon sugar

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

2 teaspoons celery seeds

1 teaspoon celery salt

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Fit a food processor with the thickest slicing blade. Cut cabbages into small wedges and place horizontally into feed tube. Process in batches. Next, fit food processor with grating blade. Cut carrots in half and place in feed tube so they are lying on their sides. Process in batches and mix in a bowl with grated cabbages.

In a medium bowl, whisk together mayonnaise, mustard, sugar, vinegar, celery seeds, celery salt, kosher salt and pepper. Pour enough of dressing over grated vegetables to moisten them. Serve cold or at room temperature.

Makes 8 to 10 servings

From ``The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook,'' by Ina Garten.

HOW TO PREP THE VEGGIES

COOKING POTATOES

To roast potatoes, spread potato chunks (use small red or Yukon golds and leave the skins on) on a rimmed baking sheet, drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper and roll around until well coated. Cover with foil and roast in a single layer in a 450-degree oven until tender, about 30 to 40 minutes. Toss the potatoes with dressing while still warm so they will absorb it better.

To grill potatoes for salads, simply cut Yukon gold or little red ones in half, dip the cut side in oil and grill cut side down until they have grill marks.

To save time, microwave potatoes. Simply rinse the whole, unpeeled potatoes well with cold water (scrub with a vegetable brush to remove excess dirt), pierce them in a few places with a sharp knife and arrange in a circle on a microwave-proof dinner-size plate, stacking with a second layer if necessary. Zap on high power, uncovered, without any water added, for 15 to 20 minutes or longer, depending on the number of potatoes, the density, etc. Check the potatoes after the first 10 to 12 minutes and then again after 15 minutes or so, piercing with a knife or fork. Remove any that are tender and done and finish cooking the rest, if necessary. Remove the plate to a sink and run cold water over the potatoes a minute or two. Drain and leave at room temperature until cool. Peel, if desired. It's easiest to cut up the potatoes after they are chilled thoroughly so they don't fall apart.

PURGING VEGETABLES FOR COLESLAWS

Salt cutup slaw vegetables with kosher salt (a tablespoon or so) and toss together. Then place in a colander, top with a plate and a heavy jar or can to weight down. Place in the sink or over a bowl. Wait two hours, then spread veggies (do not rinse) out on a dish towel or paper towels and thoroughly pat dry.

-- N.H.

CAPTION(S):

5 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) Salad days of summer

Coleslaws, potato salads for Labor Day feasting

Photo by Melaine Acevedo from ``The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook,'' Clarkson Potter/Publishers

(2 -- color) no caption (ingredients for coleslaw and potato salad)

(3 -- color) TOP: TANGY COLESLAW

(4 -- color) ABOVE: POTATO-EDAMAME SALAD

(5 -- color) GREEK POTATO SALAD

Box:

HOW TO PREP THE VEGGIES (see text)