L.A. WINELINE WOODLAND HILLS RESIDENT WIELDS THE SABRE D'OR.

Byline: - Larry Lipson

The hand is steady. It holds a saber. The blade flashes down the edge of the bottle and the cork flies off the end, leaving a clean cut in the neck of the champagne bottle as a spray of the bubbly blows forth.

This dramatic way of opening a bottle of champagne is described as the art of sabrage.

Now California has its own chapter of the Confrerie du Sabre d'Or, the society of those committed to this art.

Heading the chapter as its first constable is Woodland Hills resident Philippe Milgrom, a French wine importer whose 2-year-old company, M.R.O.I. LLC, is based in Woodland Hills and stores its wines in North Hollywood.

A special dinner celebrating the launch of the Confrerie here will be held Jan. 25 at La Cachette, 10506 Santa Monica Blvd., West Los Angeles, where its chef-owner, Jean Francois Meteigner, will be inducted into the organization as a maitre-sabreur.

A multicourse meal featuring Pommery, Dom Ruinart, Jacqusson, Bollinger and Moet & Chandon champagnes will be part of the event, which begins at 6:30 p.m.

The all-inclusive cost of the dinner is $140. Details and reservations: [phone].

Those interested in membership in the Confrerie (there are already more than 100 members, says Milgrom) can call [phone] or visit www.lesabredorcalifornia.com

EMPTYING THE FLASH: Retiring from The Flask, the popular wine and spirits retailer at 12194 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, after 41 years are brothers Chuck and Marty Petersil.

The Petersils, who opened The Flask in 1962 with their parents, Harry and Sally, announced late last month that they would be leaving.

Their brother-in-law Ray Wolkoff, associated with The Flask for 28 years, will continue his management role along with Ryan Sage and Hal Lampert.

For more detailed information, call the store at [phone].

CHAMPAGNE CENTRAL: Holiday bubbly shoppers might want to check out the huge selection at Wine Expo, 2933 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica.

In fact, this retailer has dubbed itself ``Champagne World HQ.''

Call [phone] or [phone].

LE FLEUR: The ``flower bottle'' by Perrier-Jouet continues to be a hot item at this time of year.

Offering the limited 1997 brut rose in a handsome gift box flanked by two flower-embossed wine glasses for $149.50 is the Duke of Bourbon, 20908 Roscoe Blvd., Canoga Park.

The Duke calls it a ``fleurtation'' and prices the regular Perrier Jouet gift set at $110.

Information: [phone].

BARGAIN OF THE MONTH: To my surprise, there's a vernaccia (Tuscan white) available locally that has traveled well from Italy and tastes good enough to earn my Bargain of the Month honors.

This one, the 2001 Vigna Casanuova, Vernaccia Di San Gimignano, Fontaleoni, priced at $9.99, is a crisp, breezy, marvelously refreshing drink, a wine that will not overwhelm most fish or light chicken dishes, one that can be quaffed rather than sipped for ultimate enjoyment.

Buy it at Liquid Wine & Spirits, 10100 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Chatsworth. Call ahead and make sure it's put away for you because it's selling fast. The phone number is [phone].

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com