L.A. WINELINE NO. 1 MERLOT WINS WITH CONSISTENCY.

Byline: LARRY LIPSON

What would you pick as the No. 1-selling domestic red wine in this country at any price point?

If you said Blackstone California merlot, you'd be right.

And the good news for the buyers who caused this phenomenon is that Blackstone's latest available vintage, the 2003, is currently in release at around $11 a bottle.

Winemaker Dennis Hill (who also is the Hill of the fine Hayman & Hill wines) does some interesting things to preserve the consistency of Blackstone's merlot.

The 2003, for example, contains only 2 percent more of the merlot grape in its cuvee than is deemed necessary by law to be called a merlot.

Consequently, the wine's 77 percent merlot number really means it just made it as a merlot. As for the rest of the blend, 19 percent is syrah, 3 percent petite sirah and 1 percent cabernet sauvignon.

Somehow, from all this, Hill has once again produced what he says ``is sure to be a crowd pleaser.''

It's beautifully balanced, delicate and smooth, exhibiting welcome tannic softness and just the right amount of fruit.

Find out more about it at www.blackstonewinery.com or [phone].

NEW RELEASES: Five generations and 106 years old, Mettler Family Vineyards of Lodi, Calif., has 8 percent cabernet sauvignon in its dark, lush 2002 petite sirah, released in December ($24.99) and 2 percent petite sirah in its 2002 cabernet sauvignon, set for release June 1 ($24.99). Information www.mettlerwine.com. or [phone].

Looking for a bargain for your dinner table? Try four: Camelot Californian food-friendly varietals ($7.99 each) now on the shelves, the 2002 shiraz, 2002 zinfandel, 2003 pinot noir and 2003 chardonnay. Information: www.camelotwines.com or [phone].

Big, strong, 15 percent alcohol, 2002 zinfandel from Jessie's Grove in Lodi dubbed Westwind ($19), released in January, is aptly described in its notes: ``Not for the faint of heart.'' Information: [phone].

From Italy, the 2004 Ecco Domani pinot grigio (around $11) is a young, crisp, clean white from ``the driest growing season Italy has had in 50 years.'' Information: www.eccodomani.com.

Newly designed labels are affixed to the just-released 2002 Sonoma County cabernet sauvignon ($19), 2003 Sonoma County chardonnay ($15) and 2001 Alden Vineyards cabernet sauvignon ($30) from Rodney Strong. Winemaker Rick Sayre calls his chard ``lively,'' his Sonoma cab as ``seductive'' and his Alden cab as possessing ``classic mountain fruit structure.'' Information: www.rodneystrong.com or [phone].

Jade Mountain has released its first-ever Monterey syrah. The 2003 ($15) has 4 percent of the little-known teroldego grape in it, as well as 5 percent grenache. Also new from Jade: 2003 viognier ($30), 2003 Napa syrah ($27.50), 2003 mourvedre ($18) and 2003 La Provencale ($16), a provocative blend of mourvedre, syrah, vionier and grenache. Information: www.jademountainvineyard.com.

A little age doesn't hurt. Mayacamas, in the form of its owner-winemaker Bob Travers, has plenty of patience. Note that the just-released 2000 Mayacamas merlot ($35) waited five years to get to you, and even the 2002 chardonnay ($32), also released this spring, has three years under its cork. These are my kinds of wines. Information: [phone].

SIPS & NIBBLES: Winemaker Bill Arbios will be pouring his 2001 Arbios Cellars cab and two of his previous standouts, the '95 and '97 Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, Arbios cabs at a winemaker dinner at Saddle Peak Lodge, 419 Cold Canyon Road, Calabasas, on June 24. The dinner ($125) includes four wines of the Arbios sister label Praxis. Information and reservations: www.saddlepeaklodge.com or [phone]. ... In 2004, according to the Wine Institute, some 428 million gallons of California wine were disbursed in the United States representing $15 billion of retail value. Total wine sales in the U.S. of $23.2 billion represented 668 million gallons from everywhere.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com