L.A. WINELINE NAPA VALLEY IS SPARKLING WITH HOLIDAY BUBBLES.

Byline: LARRY LIPSON

Despite the French invasion of California's sparkling wine turf by such familiar Champagne names as Roederer, Chandon, Mumm, Piper and Taittinger, Napa's bubbling granddaddy, Schramsberg, has never been more successful than it is today.

That success, both commercially and artistically, can be traced to the second generation of the 40-year Davies family ownership, youthful Hugh Davies.

Davies, whose business card indicates he's president and CEO, but who seems to prefer being known as the winemaker, recently brought four of his premium, methode champenoise bubblies, plus a bottle of his latest pride and joy, a high-quality cabernet sauvignon made with his own estate-grown grapes carrying the J. Davies label, to Pinot Bistro in Studio City.

Fanny Bay oysters were the perfect companions to Schramsberg's 2001 Blanc de Blancs ($32.50), crisp, tart and with lovely citrus overtones. The 2002 Blanc de Noirs ($32.50) paired very effectively with a goat cheese tart and a burrata cheese plate.

Similarly, the 1999 J. Schram ($80) shows its chardonnay power as the winery's grand marque bubbly, good enough to match with seafood or poultry entrees, while the 1999 Schramsberg Reserve ($70) of predominantly pinot noir grapes, can even be enjoyed with robust meat dishes or spicy Asian recipes.

Of course, in the case of a thick steak or a savory beef bourguignon, the intense 2002 J. Davies ($65) still red wine couldn't be a better choice.

But these aren't the only members of the Schramsberg portfolio of sparklers.

There's the romantic Brut Rose ($36.50), always a big seller on St. Valentine's Day, and there's the Cremant Demi-Sec ($34.50), a sweet sparkler that's apparently a favorite at presidential dinner functions at the White House.

A second label, nonvintage Schramsberg bubbly called Mirabelle sells for around $18.75 a bottle and is generally considered an above average sparkling wine for the price.

No doubt about it, Schramsberg provides plenty of worthwhile effervescent options for upcoming holiday festivities.

Information: [phone] or www.schramsberg.com.

NEW RELEASES: Barrel-aged Valley of the Moon 2003 zinfandel and 2002 syrah ($16 each) are two recent Sonoma County releases. ... The 2004 Paragon Vineyard chardonnay ($14) from Edna Valley is now available. ... Zin fans can find two from Shenandoah Vineyards, a 2004 special reserve ($9.95) and a 2003 Paul's Vineyard ``ReZerve'' ($24). Also three zinfandels from Sobon Estate (actually, the same producer as Shenandoah) a 2004 Old Vines ($12.95), a 2003 Cougar Hills ($15.95) and a 2003 Fiddletown ($19.95). ... With a new label comes Echelon 2004 pinot noir ($13), 2003 shiraz ($12) and 2003 cabernet sauvignon from Hames Valley ($13).

SIPS & NIBBLES: By putting ultra-expensive 50-year-old The Macallan in an ultra-expensive Lalique decanter-type bottle, it will soon be possible (next month) to get a $5,995 bottle of scotch. ... From the Cotes du Rhone region in France comes the news that the 2005 vintage is ``exceptional.'' Information: www.rhone-wines.com. ... Twenty-five Greek wineries have joined together to promote Greek wine in North America. Interested? Visit www.allaboutgreekwine.com. ... Most sweet dessert icewine comes in half (375 ml) bottles. Now Vidal by Inniskillin is adding a quarter (187 ml) bottle in the 2004 vintage priced at $38. It will be on retail shelves early next year. ... Look for Baron Herzog wines sporting a new label depicting the new Oxnard winery of Herzog Wine Cellars. ... Radio wine commentator Scott Carpenter tells us of a new wine shop/wine bar/cheese shop in a Redondo Beach mall that's drawing crowds, mostly male. Andy Di Girgis opened his Gourmet Cheese & Wine Market at the Galleria 16 months ago. Information: [phone].

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com