L.A. WINELINE MAKERS OF MERLOT DEFEND THEIR GRAPE.

Byline: LARRY LIPSON

The merlot backlash is accelerating in steam and ferocity.

Juiced by the 2004 hit movie "Sideways," pinot noir gained huge notoriety and, consequently, a big jump in sales.

And with its nastiness regarding merlot, the movie initiated a merlot downslide.

But merlot's forces have been gathering strength and appear ready to flex their muscles.

In fact, there's already a new Web site, http://www.merlotfightsback.com.

And one of merlot's most respected California producers, Swanson Vineyards, is going on the road with visits scheduled for San Francisco, San Diego, Las Vegas, Chicago, New York, Miami, Tampa and Orlando. "We're coming to the rescue of a wonderful wine, both by bringing an educational seminar (to the trade) to a number of markets and also by bringing the discussion about merlot to the Web," says Stuart Harrison, general manager of Swanson.

Merlot is, of course, a very important French Bordeaux red wine grape, more important in the Pomerol and St. Emilion regions than even cabernet sauvignon.

Chateau Petrus, perhaps the most expensive and most revered wine from Bordeaux, is said to be 100 percent merlot, although its vineyard does grow a small amount of cabernet franc.

Ironically, the lead character in "Sideways" lauds his bottle of Chateau Belair, a famous St. Emilion wine that happens to contain a sizable amount of merlot.

Coincidentally, Sterling Vineyards in Calistoga, Calif. celebrates the seventh anniversary of its annual Merlot in May event at the winery on May 12, when 130 domestic and international merlot producers will be pouring 200 different merlots.

Tickets are $45 and can be purchased at http://www.sterlingvineyards.com, or by calling [phone].

Notes Mike Westrick, Sterling's vice president of winemaking: "Merlot received a bum rap in the movie 'Sideways.' It, however, was a movie, and the fact remains that merlot is one of the most popular wines by the glass in restaurants, outselling pinot by nearly 10 to one."

PINOT NOIR PASSION: But pinot noir isn't going away. In fact, the PinotReport newsletter ($75 online, $125 print per year) tells us of its 2006 Pinot Passion Awards, naming (1) Michael Browne of Kosta Browne Winery, Sebastopol, Calif.; (2) Lynne Penner-Ash of Penner-Ash Wine Cellars, Newberg, Ore.; and (3) Richard Sanford of Alma Rosa, Buellton, Calif.; also its 2005 Master Vintners award winners.

It also names four Rising Stars of 2005, the Top 12 Pinot Noirs of 2005 and other winners.

Information: [phone], or pinotreport.com.

NEW RELEASES: On May 6 at its annual Cinco de Mayo celebration, noon to 4 p.m. ($25 including food and wine) the Robledo Family Winery of Sonoma Valley will introduce its 2004 Los Braceros Red Blend ($20 to $25), made with cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah grapes. Robledo, at 21901 Bonness Road in Sonoma, claims it's the first winery and tasting room established by a migrant Mexican vineyard worker in all of North America. Information: [phone] or www.robledofamilywinery.com. ... From the Marlborough region of New Zealand come two new wines under The Jibe label, a 2005 sauvignon blanc and a 2004 pinot noir, both priced at $14.99. ... Sonoma's Valley of the Moon offers a 2003 sangiovese ($16) that it calls one of the best from "this fickle grape." ... Blackstone Winery has released four Monterey County white wines ($12 each), all 2005 vintages, a riesling, a chardonnay, a sauvignon blanc and a pinot grigio, calling them its "white hot whites." Information: [phone] or www.blackstonewinery.com. ... And a $6.99 2005 riesling from Hardy's Stamp of Australia is now available, sweet and citric and ready for spring picnics.

SIPS AND NIBBLES: The latest corker: No screwcaps or synthetic closures will appear in bottles of D.O. (Denominacion de Origien) wines from 11 of Spain's top wine-producing regions. The reason: a new Spanish law. ... Want your picture on a wine label? Signature Wines affixes national brand wines with photo labels for events, gifts and egomaniacs for as low as $15 per bottle (minimum two). Information: [phone]. ... Congrats to Robert Mondavi Winery, celebrating its 40th anniversary this year. (Gosh, it doesn't seem that long ago - in the early '70s - when I drank my first R. Mondavi cab, the 1969, which was absolutely superb.)