L.A. WINELINE EXPECTATIONS HIGH FOR 2004 BEAUJOLAIS.

Byline: - Larry Lipson

Although much of the suspense and excitement has been diluted since Beaujolais Nouveau Day was officially declared as the third Thursday of November, partying types find it's still a good excuse to celebrate the arrival of this premier Burgundy wine of the current vintage.

Before the 1985 declaration, the date wasn't fixed, and everyone around the world waited expectantly for news that the new, young wine had arrived on the shelves and was available for purchase.

But the marketing geniuses in France figured that the whole process was easier to control on a global basis if they fixed the date of the annual release and made it official.

Consequently, the initial bottlings are usually a trifle more expensive because they're flown in and readied for the specific debut date. The rest of the wine that is shipped by sea and arrives later can often be found at a slightly lower price.

Last year, word filtered down that the 2003 Beaujolais Nouveau was an exceptional vintage, resulting in demand much higher than that for previous vintages.

So this year wholesale advance orders have jumped up proportionately.

Georges Duboeuf, who's been sending his nouveau to the United States since 1981, reports a 7 percent increase in advance sales for the 2004 vintage.

This means a 200,000-case total, which translates into a mighty 2.4 million bottles snatched off U.S. shelves or poured at restaurants.

Duboeuf, with a bright purple, blue and yellow new label, sells for around $9.99 for the jet-delivered wine on Beaujolais Nouveau Day, Nov. 18. That should decrease to approximately $8.99 on and after Nov. 28, when the ships arrive.

For more information about these wines and associated events, check with your favorite local French restaurant or wine retailer, or visit www.winewithoutrules.com.

BARGAINS BY THE BOTTLE: Southern California wine lovers can find some really good wine deals on a regular basis from Martin's Guide to Wine Bargains. It's a monthly newsletter ($58 per year) by former wine importer Martin Weiner who also operates the L.A. School of Wines.

In his current issue, Weiner recommends a 2001 Aliento Del Sol chardonnay from Monterey County available at various Whole Foods market locations for $11.99, a 2003 Pascal Jolivet Sancerre from Costco at $15.49, a 2001 Hayman & Hill Napa reserve cabernet sauvignon for $13.99 at Moe's Fine Wines in Brentwood, a 1998 Mazzocco Dry Creek Valley zinfandel for $8.99 at Whole Foods and a 2002 Kali Hart pinot noir for $8.99 at Los Angeles Wine Co., 4935 McConnell Ave., Los Angeles.

In his newsletter, Weiner describes the merits of each wine in an easy, personal manner that appeals to both novices and connoisseurs.

He can be reached at [phone] or www.vintagewineenterprises.com.

NIBBLES & SIPS: With the release of its 2002 Miradero merlot ($24.50), a blend of Napa and Sonoma grapes, Charles Creek hopes to repeat honors like that of its 2001 Miradero which snagged a Best Merlot award at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition earlier this year. ... Wine and food fanciers who expect to be in Napa on Nov. 12 might check into the holiday fare event at the Villagio Inn, 6481 Washington St., Yountville, where wine from Dominus, Rombauer, Trefethen, Stony Hill, August Briggs and other nearby wineries will be paired with the food samplings of the hotel's chef, John Ernst. Time is 5:30 to 7 p.m. Tab is $15. Reservations: [phone].

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com