L.A. WINELINE DANIEL SCHUSTER A NAME TO KNOW.

Byline: - Larry Lipson

Call it merit by association.

It can be done by putting a particular winery's efforts together with some of the world's best wines at a tasting that involves a superb luncheon at a highly rated restaurant.

Yet Daniel Schuster wines of New Zealand actually stand up beautifully by themselves.

However, the bolster effect works even better. When they share honors with a Tremblay premier cru chablis, a Groffier premier cru chambolle- musigny, Ornellaia, Opus One, Stag's Leap Cask 23, Chateau Pichon-Longueville, Moraga, Chateau Cheval-Blanc, Masseto and Chateau L'Evangile, you know they're in rather good company.

The tasting event took place earlier this month at Campanile restaurant in Los Angeles. Perhaps, at some time in the future when the line's own fame is assured, the Schuster wines will be paired similarly with a lesser-known label.

Meanwhile, their eponymous winemaker, who prefers to be known as Danny Schuster, is no ordinary fella. He's the author of several books on wine and has advised many top wineries in the world (Antinori, Stag's Leap, Ornellaia and others).

His outstanding Petrie selection 2001 chardonnay (around $20) and Omihi Hills 2002 pinot noir (around $40) are currently available at Vendome outlets in Studio City and Toluca Lake, Le Petite Vendome in Pasadena and Red Carpet Wines in Glendale.

$10 BLANC: A most interesting wine, the 2004 Early Release sauvignon blanc from Santa Barbara County's Brander confirms my positive feelings about this winery's continuing sauvignon blanc efforts.

A lovely, refreshing, dry nouveau white, vibrant, aromatic and a great companion to food, it's a true holiday bargain that's available for a mere $9.99 at the Duke of Bourbon, 20908 Roscoe Blvd., Canoga Park. Information: [phone].

SOJU RISING: It's interesting to see the upsurge of soju, the distilled rice, barley or sweet potato beverage from Korea and Japan that's 24 percent alcohol (48 proof) in restaurants around Southern California.

Used to mix martinis, bloody marys and other cocktails legally at establishments with beer and wine licenses, soju is strong enough to have a ``liquor kick,'' and restaurants - like California Canteen 3311 Cahuenga Blvd. W., near Universal City, which sells 14 soju-based cocktails at $5.50 each plus five hot coffee drinks at the same price - are enjoying unexpected action at their previously quiet wine bars. Because of this, California Canteen expects to have a bonanza New Year's Eve dinner celebration this year. Information and reservations: [phone].

SIPS & NIBBLES: Remembering Brother Timothy: The friendly, good-humored Christian Brothers winemaker for more than 50 years had a huge collection of corkscrews and was always good for a quote and a picture concerning them. ... The Wine Institute tells us that there's evidence of a 9,000-year-old wine in the Henan province of China. Previous oldest was an 8,000-year-old Georgian, Russian wine. ... Charles Curtis, presently the director of wine education for Manhattan-based Clicquot Inc., has become the 21st North American member of the Institute of Masters of Wine. ... Tignanello, the Antinori wine that inspired the description ``super Tuscan'' in 1974 when it was first released, celebrates its 30th anniversary with the release of its 2001 for around $80. ... Zinfandel fanciers might want to attend the 13th annual Paso Robles Zinfandel Festival, on March 19, 2005, with special events March 18-20. Details: [phone] or www.pasowine.com. ... If you want to know the 59 wineries (alphabetically Baileyana through ZD) chosen to pour their wines at the next Taste of Vail, April 6-9, 2005, visit www.tasteofvail.com.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com