L.A. WINELINE CLOS DU VAL BOTTLINGS GOOD TO POUR.

Byline: LARRY LIPSON

The wines of Clos du Val, one of the long-established, French-connected, Napa Valley wineries, were recently poured for an Emmy Awards-related function.

Consequently, I had the opportunity to taste several of them with a winery representative at a local restaurant.

Co-founder and director of winemaking Bernard Portet, whose father was a technical director at Chateau Lafite Rothschild, has consistently produced superior cabernet sauvignons, and his 2002 Stag's Leap District ($62) is no exception.

It was easily the best wine of the evening, exhibiting the classic richness, length and depth of a well-balanced, thus age-worthy, claret. It is due for release later this month.

A bottle of the 2000 vintage, obtained from the restaurant's wine list, has some obvious similar characteristics but doesn't quite measure up to the 2002.

Clos du Val's clean, fresh-tasting 2004 chardonnay ($22) made from Carneros grapes followed a bubbly aperitif, the winery's delicious 2001 Clover Hill ($30) Australian import.

Surprisingly, Clos du Val's 2004 pinot noir ($24), also from Carneros, with its fruitier balanced intensity, had more immediate appeal that evening than its rarer, more expensive 2003 reserve pinot bottling ($42).

Clos du Val produces several other varietals, such as merlot, sangiovese, zinfandel and sauvignon blanc, some only available at the winery.

Information: [phone] or www.closduval.com.

A REAL (NON)CORKER: Are we ready for a premium sparkling wine in a corkless bottle?

Domaine Chandon, the Napa Valley sparkling wine branch of France's Moet & Chandon, thinks so.

It has released its top-of-the-line ``etoile'' bubbly with what it calls a ``crown cap.''

This resembles an everyday soda pop or beer bottle's crimped metal cap, but is wadded to prevent leakage.

This is the traditional closure used for many classic champagnes during their production phases, so it makes some sense.

But what about the ritual pop of the cork removal from a bottle of good sparkling wine.

Forget it. What you get with the crown cap is a gentle hiss.

But the bubbly itself should taste as good as it would with a cork finish.

It does with ``etoile.'' Believe me. A bottle of the brut rose ($34) was recently enjoyed at my son's birthday celebration dinner at Mr. Chow in Beverly Hills (with an additional $25 corkage fee).

Information: [phone] or www.chandon.com.

NEW RELEASES: From northern Spain (via Pacific Wine Partners) comes a very nice 2005 tempranillo and garnacha (grenache) wine called Red Guitar ($10.99). Also imported by Pacific Wine Partners and just released in this country are the Australian negociant-labeled wines of the Emu Wine Co., a 2004 Frankland River shiraz ($28) and a 2005 Tasmania riesling ($20), the latter said to be a dry and citric version. Information on all three wines: [phone] or www.pacwine.com. ... Back as winemaker at Lockwood Vineyard, the big Monterey County producer, is Larry Gomez, with his new releases, a screw-capped, estate 2005 sauvignon blanc ($11) and an estate 2004 chardonnay ($11). Information: [phone] or www.lockwoodwine.com

SIPS AND NIBBLES: Turns out that the highly regarded Cobblestone wines (2002 Napa cabernet sauvignon, $39, and 2005 Arroyo Seco chardonnay, $29) are produced by the Levine family, of the same Saul Levine who owns two L.A.-area music radio stations -- classical K-Mozart or KMZT-FM (105.1) and standards KKGO-AM (1260 and 540). Information: [phone] or www.cobblestone

wine.com. Cobblestone is available at Wade's Wines, 30961 W. Agoura Road, Westlake Village, [phone]. ... Temecula Valley celebrates its 15th annual Harvest Wine Celebration on Nov. 4 and 5. Details and tickets ($83): [phone] or www.temeculawines.org.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

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