L.A. WINELINE CHANGE YOUR WINE ATTITUDE.

Byline: LARRY LIPSON

The current issue of Details magazine tells us that everything we know about wine is probably wrong.

The article by Ian Daly insists that ``wine is not for the sanctimonious, it is for the thirsty.''

He points out that not all rieslings are sweet (we knew that, didn't we?) and that screwcaps don't necessarily mean low quality anymore.

He suggests that we're better off buying younger wines than older ones when we're out shopping, and that cheaper wines on restaurant wine lists are usually marked up higher percentagewise than the more expensive ones, so the latter are actually better bargains.

And that we should forget the usual theatrics of swirling, sniffing and sucking when a waiter pours a small amount of a just-opened bottle into our glass. We should simply determine if the wine is corked or oxidized, advises Daly.

He then goes on to inform the reader how that is accomplished. I do it by swirling and sniffing, then tasting.

And by examining the cork.

How about you?

AMERICAN BUBBLIES: Though I still believe that the best sparkling wines in the world are the French grand marques of Champagne, I recognize the quality of such domestic bubblies as Mumm Napa, now owned by Pernod Ricard, which recently held a tasting luncheon at the posh Hotel Bel-Air, where the house sparkler just happens to be Mumm Napa's Cuvee M.

From its Brut Prestige, Cuvee M and Blanc de Noirs ($18 each) nonvintage offerings through its refreshing 2001 Blanc de Blancs ($25), Reserve Brut ($25), also a nonvintage, to some of its top-of-the-line DVX bottlings, including the current 1999 ($45), attendees sipped and discussed the merits of blending, age, fruitiness, yeast and other factors with winemaker Rob McNeil.

Considering the current cost of France's major-name sparklers, even the DVXs of Mumm Napa seem to be good values. Information: [phone] or www.mummnapa.com.

NEW RELEASES: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines has released two 2004s under its Solaris label, one a Monterey chardonnay ($12) and the other a Mendocino zinfandel ($14). The latter uses fruit mostly from the well-known Andy Beckstoffer Mendocino vineyard. (In the neighboring county, where he has major vineyard property, Beckstoffer recently was named Grower of the Year by the Napa Valley Grapegrowers.) Information: www.diageowines.com. ... From Napa's reliable Grgich Hills comes two May releases, the 2005 Estate Grown fume blanc ($25) and the 2002 cabernet sauvignon ($58). Information: [phone] or www.grgich.com. ... Twin Fin has named its handy four-packs of cabernet sauvignon or chardonnay, ``The Beach Cruiser'' ($9.99 per four-pack) Both come in screwcapped glass bottles (187 milliliters each) now and will soon be available in plastic. Information: www.twinfinwines.com. ... the 2004 Marilyn merlot ($26), the 20th vintage of this successful label, is set for a June 1 release, as it always is, on her birthday. Information: [phone] or www.marilynwines.com. ... A couple of well-balanced, limited production, 2002 estate reds ($20 each), a merlot and a cabernet sauvignon from Chateau Julien, are now available. Information [phone] or www.chateaujulien.com. ... Ready for up to 20 years of aging is the newest Raymond enerations cabernet sauvignon, the 2002 ($75). Information: [phone] or www.raymondvineyards.com. ... And Chalone has sent out its latest estate chardonnay, the 2004 ($25). Information: diageowines.com. ... Here from Rioja, Spain, are the reserva 2000 ($19) and gran reserva 1998 ($26) from Bodegas Montecillo. Both are 100 percent tempranillo.

SIPS AND NIBBLES: A new bimonthly drink magazine named Imbibe is on the newsstands with a $4.95 cover price. A one-year subscription is $15.95. Information: www.imbibemagazine.com. ... Amador Foothill Winery, maker of concentrated sangiovese, defends that varietal and suggests that it's the pinot noir of the future in California, where in various areas the grape has lost favor. Information: [phone] or www.amadorfoothill.com. ... Proud of its new organic and biodynamic certification, Sonoma's Quivera Vineyards just released its 2005 mourvedre rose, 2004 Fig Tree sauvignon blanc, 2004 Steelhead Red and 2004 zinfandel. Information: [phone] or www.quivirawine.com.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com