L.A. WINELINE BY ANY OTHER NAME, IT'S A MERITAGE.

Byline: - Larry Lipson

When California wineries decided to call their Bordeaux-style blends Meritage, it obviously wasn't enough for most of them to distinguish one winery's effort from another.

Estancia is an exception. It simply calls its meritage Meritage.

St. Supery, for example, just came out with a meritage that it named Elu, a French word meaning elected.

Going down the list, we see that Benzinger has its Tribute, Beringer has its Alluvium, and Bourassa its Harmony.

Some of the more famous meritages are Marlstone from Clos du Bois, Trilogy from Flora Springs, Insignia from Joseph Phelps, Opus One from Robert Mondavi-Rothschild and Cinq Cepages from Chateau St. Jean.

Yet both Niebaum-Coppola and Steltzner shun creativity and call theirs Claret, while Lyeth titled its Bordeaux-style red ... Red.

But one winery gets poetic.

Roth has named its meritage Heritage.

WINE BY VOLUME: It's thick (432 pages). It's deep in information (from 42 experts). And it's right up to date.

Can't say enough about the ``Wine Report 2005'' (DK Publishing, $15) by Tom Stevenson and 41 contributors.

If you're into wine, this could be the most worthwhile $15 you'll ever spend, unless, of course, you happen to procure a world-class bottle for the same price.

TAKE A CAB IN GLENDALE: California cabernet sauvignon fans can get their fill of some of the best cabs available at Red Carpet Wine's ``Cabernet Classic'' event featuring a gala dinner and tasting on Nov. 5 at the Glendale Hilton.

The five-course meal that includes 13 wines plus a champagne reception is $195. A Grand Ballroom tasting the following afternoon (1 to 3 p.m.) in the same hotel is $95.

Information and reservations: [phone].

BEAUJOLAIS AT SKIRBALL: This year's Beaujolais Festival by the French-American Chamber of Commerce of Los Angeles takes place Nov. 19, the day following Beaujolais Nouveau Day, at the Skirball Cultural Center, 2701 N. Sepulveda Blvd.

French foods, beverages, a silent auction and, of course, a tasting of the just-arrived 2004 Beaujolais Nouveau wines along with entertainment and a raffle for a round-trip flight from LAX to Paris on Air France will highlight the celebration.

Tickets are $65 (members $45). Reservations recommended. Call [phone].

QUIXOTE RED: You know about the man from La Mancha. Well, I've found the wine from La Mancha, Spain, that is a solid bargain that should not be passed up.

Nothing quixotic here. It's a straightforward red, 100 percent tempranillo on sale for $7.99 called Campos Reales brought here by one of the best importers of Spanish wines, Jorge Ordonez.

Full-flavored, with plenty of fruit components, easy drinking and very satisfying, this is a wine that just about everybody will like by itself or with food.

Well balanced and with a lengthy aftertaste, it's available at the Duke of Bourbon, 20908 Roscoe Blvd., Canoga Park.

Information: [phone].

SIPS & NIBBLES: Mike Grgich thinks his 1997 Grgich Hills Yountville cab, just released at $85, will last 50 years and is his best vintage yet. Only 593 cases produced. Information: www.grgich.com. ... Scotch fanciers can taste Johnnie Walker's new Green label single malt at a tasting and seminar from 6:30 to 8 p.m. Oct. 15 at the Kate Mantilini restaurant, 5921 Owensmouth Ave., Woodland Hills, along with tastes of Walker's Red, Black, Blue and Gold scotches. Cost: $15 (includes appetizers). Information: [phone]. ... Adam Richardson is the new winemaker and general manager at Concannon.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com