L.A. WINELINE BOMBAY WINES A GOOD MATCH FOR INDIAN FARE.

Byline: LARRY LIPSON

What wine should we drink with Indian food?

How about Indian wine.

Don't laugh. It's here, imported by Dreyfus Ashby (www.dreyfusashby.com) and may soon be noticed on Indian restaurant wine lists.

Sonoma winemaker Kerry Damskey and Stanford University alumnus Raj Samant, who gave up a high-tech career in the Silicon Valley for the good grape, have expanded their Sula Vineyards production of chenin blanc, sauvignon blanc, shiraz and zinfandel (they make a zin rose) near Bombay, India, from 2,000 to 100,000 cases in seven years.

Damskey, who has his own Palmeri wines label, consults with other Sonoma wineries including Dutcher Crossing.

Called the Wandering Winemaker, Damskey's ``wanderings'' can be followed on his blog: www.palmeriwines.com/blog/silkroad.htm.

CELLAR KNOW-HOW: If you can't afford or don't want to spend the money to hire Jeff Smith and his Carte du Vin company to design and organize your wine cellar, I recommend you buy his new book ``The Best Cellar'' (Bonus Books; $14.95) and find out how to do it yourself.

Smith tells all. He keeps no secrets, nor does he seem to worry about the possibility that his book could put him out of business.

He evidently believes that because wine collectors are often wealthy people, there will always be those who feel they could use their personal time to better advantage than getting their cellar in order and are willing to pay him $2 per bottle to do so.

Anyway, his book is a wake-up call for wine buffs who buy wine for future consumption.

In a disarming manner, Smith lets you know what kind of wine personality you have and where you're going with it.

If you're as disorganized as I am and you have some cases of worthwhile wine tucked away at home, perhaps it's time to do something about it.

Information: Volt Press, [phone], www.bonusbooks.com or www.carteduvin.com.

LOOK AT LOIRE: Not all French wine is expensive.

And not all of it is the ultimate, the best wine on earth.

Wines from France's Loire Valley, for example, are generally refreshing, relatively affordable bottlings.

Even the sparklers.

Like the nonvintage Langlois Chateau cremant rose ($24), which is nice and dry.

And from several Loires tasted recently, I like the delicate, well-balanced saumur-champigny Filliatreau La Grande Vignolle 2004 red wine ($17) and the white, 2004, stony, tart, slightly funky sancerre blanc from Domaine Joseph Mellot La Chatellenie ($32).

Information: [phone] or www.loirevalleywine.com.

NEW RELEASES: The whimsical Rex Goliath label's most recent offerings from California's central coast are on the shelves. All priced at $8.99 they are two 2005s, the pinot grigio and chardonnay, and four nonvintage reds: pinot noir, merlot, shiraz and cabernet sauvignon. Information: [phone]. ... From Covey Run in Washington state come two 2004 whites -- sauvignon blanc ($7.99) and chardonnay ($8.99) -- a 2003 merlot ($8.99) and a 2003 reserve chardonnay ($21.99). Information: [phone] or www.coveyrun.com. ... Look for the latest from winemaker Bob Travers at his Mayacamas Vineyards in Napa, a 2003 chardonnay ($32) and a 2001 merlot ($35). Both are said to be wines that will age gracefully. Information: [phone]. ... And a couple of 2005 crisp whites are now available from Sterling, both under the Vintner's Collection label, a pinot grigio ($13) and a sauvignon blanc ($11). Information: www.diageowines.com or [phone].

SIPS AND NIBBLES: Wally's Grande Marque champagne tasting on June 4, the 14th annual one, will again be at Le Merigot Beach Hotel, 1740 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica. Tab is $150 and proceeds go to UCLA's Jonsson Cancer Center and Madisons Foundation. Attendees will sip 50 or more of the world's best bubblies, nibble caviar, oysters and goodies from major restaurants. Reservations: [phone] or www.wallywine.com. ... Winery founder Dan Duckhorn will be honored at the sixth annual Symphony of Wine five-course dinner and wines event supporting the New West Symphony on June 25, this year at the Topa Tower Club, 300 Esplanade Drive, Oxnard. Tickets $250: [phone]. ... Visiting wine country? Food meets wine at DeLoach Vineyards in the garden behind the tasting room, 1791 Olivet Road, Santa Rosa, at the winery's weekend farmers market every Saturday and Sunday. Information: [phone] or www.deloachmineyards.com. ... The 25th annual Telluride Wine Festival, a four-day event in scenic Southwestern Colorado, is scheduled June 22-25. Information and tickets: [phone] or www.telluridewinefestival.com.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com