L.A. WINELINE AUSSIE WINES GET GOLDEN OPPORTUNITY.

Byline: - Larry Lipson

Australian wines, many of them well-made and reasonably priced, are pushing their way onto California shelves and wine lists any way they can.

One marketing method is to be partially owned and distributed by a fairly strong California producer.

Peter Lehmann, a noted Barossa Valley winery in Australia which actually outproduces its California partner, has become part of the Hess Collection in Napa, thus making use of the Hess sales and promotion staff throughout California and the rest of the United States.

Lehmann's youthful winemaker Ian Hongell, while visiting Los Angeles recently, brought some of his winery's efforts to Monty's Steakhouse in Woodland Hills for a luncheon tasting.

Two whites, the 2002 semillon and 2003 chardonnay, only $10 per bottle, could easily compare to wines priced from $20 to $30.

Although the clean, barely oaked chardonnay would probably be most people's choice of the two, I actually preferred the crisper, 3-year-old semillon that would have perfectly complemented Monty's baked oysters. Unfortunately Monty's was out of them, so puffy calamari had to do.

Australia's signature grape, the shiraz (aka syrah) obviously dominated the red wine proceedings. The lowest priced one, the $14 Peter Lehmann 2001 Barossa shiraz displayed dark, rich looks; full, fruity character - a wine that was made to pair with Monty's filet mignon.

A touch more complex, the shiraz (42 percent), cabernet sauvignon (41 percent) and merlot (17 percent) 2003 red blend dubbed Clancy's (also $14) definitely merits a place at any dinner table where meat reigns. I was really surprised to hear that this wine had a price tag under $30.

For deep-pocketed buyers, the Lehmann Barossa shiraz label called Stonewell, currently the 1997, goes for $80.

Equivalent to the best of any premium winery's reserve efforts, this red wine elicits a sort of restrained mightiness, where initial flavors seem to linger forever past swallowing; a lovely wine that deserves a special occasion.

Information: www.hesscollection.com or www.peterlehmannwines.com.

PUT A ZORK IN IT: Thanks again, Australia.

With a new Australian-invented bottle closure called ``Zork,'' California's unique Humanitas Winery, which donates all profits to charity, has released a Napa Valley blend of Sangiovese (75 percent) and cabernet sauvignon (25 percent) with a French name (L'Huile du Garagiste) that means ``Oil of the Garage Winemaker.''

Priced at $30, each of the 1,008 bottles produced has the Zork, promised to be ``easy to remove by hand and simple to reseal.''

The seal can be easily broken by hand and the tear tab removed. Supposedly, the Zork can then be pushed back in by hand, also with little effort.

Information: [phone] or www.humanitaswines.com. Also www.zork.com.au.

STONY ROCKS: White-wine lovers who've never tasted a Stony Hill chardonnay are really missing out.

But it's so tough to get a bottle or two. Very few wine shops and restaurants carry it. It's mainly sold directly to mailing-list customers.

The legendary Napa winery also makes fine gewurztraminer, riesling and semillon.

Try to talk your way onto the mailing list by calling [phone] or visiting www.stonyhillvineyard.com.

Incidentally, it's doubtful that a mention of my name will be any help.

NEW RELEASES: Replacing its current Coastal Reserve line of wines, Turning Leaf marks its 10th anniversary with Sonoma Reserve 2003 pinot noir, 2002 cabernet sauvignon, 2003 merlot and 2003 chardonnay at around $12 per bottle. ... With a conveniently removable cellar tab affixed to both front and back labels, new Sterling Vintner's Collection bottlings are priced from $13 to $15 and include a 2004 chardonnay, a 2003 merlot and a 2003 cabernet sauvignon. Information: [phone] or www.sterlingvineyards.com. ... Due for a July 1 release is New Line Cinema's co-chairman and co-CEO Michael Lynne's Bedell Cellars, New York state wine called Taste, a blend of 50 percent viognier, 35 percent chardonnay and 15 percent gewurztraminer. Only 75 cases will be sold to the public at $25 per bottle. Information: www.bedellcellars.com.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com