L.A. WINELINE `STUDENTS OF WINE, VINE' GOING STRONG.

Byline: LARRY LIPSON

In 1980 Mike Benziger and his father, Bruno, purchased the Wegener Ranch on Sonoma Mountain in Glen Ellen. It was the beginning of a significant contribution to the California wine industry.

Currently celebrating its 25th year, Benziger Family Winery, which earned biodynamic certification in 2000 and continues to pursue biodynamic grape farming, can look back at its success to date and forward to an interesting future.

The Benzigers - more than two dozen of them live on and around the 85- acre estate - sold their hugely profitable Glen Ellen brand in 1993 to concentrate on their family-name-labeled wines.

``From the beginning, we considered ourselves students of wine, vine and the land,'' says Mike Benziger. ``As we look ahead, we are both humbled by effects of nature yet to be discovered and empowered by an abiding respect for the environment.

``Farming the way we do encourages an intimate connection to the land that is nurtured with time and patience.

``Our ultimate goal is for the consumer to experience this connection through the unique style of our wine and the intense passion in the bottle.''

Information: www.benziger.com or [phone].

AN OLD FRIEND: We sometimes forget how good such old-line Riojas from Spain like Montecillo are as we get excited over the inexpensive garnachas (grenaches) or other Spanish wines we're discovering lately.

A recent tasting of Montecillos in the presence of veteran winemaker Maria Martinez-Sierra confirmed that this winery produces, particularly in its reds of 100 percent tempranillo grapes, wines that range from very pleasant (as in the Crianza 2000) to mature wonders (as in the 1998 Reserva, 1996 Gran Reserva and the limited-edition Gran Reserva 1994 ``130''). The latter celebrates Montecillo's 130th anniversary last year.

As part of Osborne's large wine portfolio, Montecillo Riojas is moderately priced ($10 to $12 and up).

For those looking for recommendable wine bargains under $10, Osborne's Solaz bottlings of a tempranillo and cabernet sauvignon blend are in the $6 to $7 range and, according to the importer, are presently available at Vons markets.

IT'S PRONOUNCED ROH-ZAY: Are roses really coming back into vogue?

Winemaker-author Jeff Morgan evidently thinks so.

He's penned a book simply titled ``Rose'' (Chronicle Books; $19.95) that features more than 200 still and sparkling roses plus rose history and some matching recipes.

Some of us might want to forget most white zinfandels forever, but there are other rose-type wines popping up as replacements - like the just-released Banrock Station 2004 White Shiraz ($6.99) from Australia, described as ``a cheeky and cheerful wine,'' that fits right into the poolside refresher category for those upcoming warmer days.

Information: www.banrockstation.com.

EVERYBODY LOVES ... : I've always liked Raymond wines and recent tastings of some of Raymond's best stuff - its 2001 district reserve bottlings (around $50 each) - and its well-crafted 2002 Estates offerings ($12.99 to $19.99) prove once again that this Napa winery can please most palates along with most pockets.

Information: [phone] or www.raymondwine.com.

SIPS & NIBBLES: Hats off to Rodney Strong Vineyards, named Winery of the Year by the California Travel Industry Association. ... Look for a pricey new Napa cab, merlot and malbec blend, the 2001 Xtant, of which only 392 cases were produced, at $75 per bottle. Information: [phone] or www.xtantwines.com. ... New Zealand wines of note carrying the House of Nobilo label are worthwhile buys at around $12 for the regional collection and $22 for the Icon category.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com