Kimchi.

KOREAN FOOD IS HEARTIER AND MORE HOTLY flavored than other Asian cuisines. Korean soy sauce is darker than Japanese soy sauce, and hot chilies are used more liberally than in Thai cuisine. The traditional Korean flavor profile is a combination of soy sauce, garlic, brown sugar, sesame seeds, sesame oil, and hot chilies, served with salted vegetables. Also, Korea has harsh, cold winters. Methods were developed over the years to insure a variety of vegetables in winter menus. These methods included salting and fermenting vegetables so they could last through the entire winter. Kimchi is probably the most renowned of these preserved vegetables.

You may have heard of kimchi. It is a flavorful food that is rich in minerals, including calcium and iron, vitamins A and C, and niacin. In fact, it was originally used as a source of nutrients when fresh produce was not available. The most prevalent type is made with green cabbage that is salted, fermented in earthenware jars, and heavily seasoned with hot chilies.

Kimchi is usually divided into two categories, seasonal or stored. Seasonal kimchi is made with spring and summer vegetables, such as zucchini, summer squash, cucumbers, sprouts, and pea vines. It is designed for short-term use and does not have a long shelf life. Young cabbage kimchi, cucumber kimchi, and baby radish kimchi are some examples of seasonal kimchi. The stored variety, which is meant to last over the long winter months, is usually made with cabbage, onions, and chili. Whole cabbage kimchi, diced radish kimchi, and ponytail cabbage kimchi are common examples. Both types are made almost year-round nowadays, as the availability of most vegetables has increased.

The use of kimchi has been historically documented for at least 2,000 years. Vegetables preserved with salt had been a Chinese tradition. Around the 16th century, preserving cabbage with chili became popular in Korea. The preparation of kimchi, kimjang, soon became a great tradition. It was a family or neighborhood affair, with everyone pitching in throughout all the seasons of the year. In the early spring, chilies, onions, and green onions were planted. They were harvested in the summer. Cabbage and radishes were purchased in early autumn. For traditional families, it is estimated that 20-30 heads of cabbage may be needed to prepare enough kimchi to last through the winter.

The flavor of kimchi varies from family to family, region to region. As different vegetables were grown, different kimchi varieties were invented. In the northern regions of Korea, where the weather is cooler, kimchi is less salty and more plainly seasoned, with the vegetable flavor coming through. In the southern regions, where the weather can be hotter, kimchi is salty and hotly seasoned with ginger, chili, and extra juice. Most kimchi authorities will tell you there are at least 200 varieties.

A kimchi's flavor is influenced by the type of cabbage and radish used; by the amount of chili, garlic, ginger, and onion used; and by the type of seasonal vegetables, such as cucumbers or sprouts, used. Aromatic seasonings, such as sesame leaves and Indian mustard leaves, are added when available. Fermentation adds to the flavor of kimchi; the longer it is allowed to ferment, the richer the flavor.

Ginger, garlic, and red chili pepper are the predominant seasonings for most kimchis, while cabbage, radishes, and onions are the vegetables used to form their bulk. Two varieties of cabbage are used. Korean cabbage, with long thin stalks, is not usually available in the United States. However, Napa cabbage, also called celery cabbage, is often used as well. There are three kinds of radishes used for kimchi. Korean radish and ponytail radish are not usually found in the United States, but daikon radish can be found in most markets and many farmers' markets. Check Asian markets in your area for Korean varieties of cabbage and radish. Green onions are the onions of choice for kimchi.

In addition, you can use flesh watercress in kimchi recipes. Korean watercress resembles a cross between North American watercress and Japanese wasabi. If you want a little more "zing," you can add a small amount of freshly grated horseradish along with the fresh watercress. Fresh ginger and fresh red and green chili peppers are almost always used to flavor kimchi. Save some of the ginger to make a soothing tea. Steep slices of fresh ginger in boiling water for several minutes. Ginger tea can be served hot or cold. Be careful when seeding fresh chilies. Wash your hands very, very well before touching your skin or eyes.

Kimchi was originally stored underground in earthenware crocks. The crocks were covered with straw mats and then dirt. This storage method helped to prevent temperature fluctuations and to ensure the food remained safe to eat. The kimchi was usually stored in several small crocks, rather than one big one. This way, only a small amount was uncovered and recovered at a time. If you don't have the time to do formal preserving, which includes sterilizing containers, you can prepare kimchi to be stored for short periods of time in the refrigerator.

Kimchi is a ubiquitous condiment, found at every meal. It can be used as a dressing or instead of sauce, salsa, or ketchup; served as an appetizer; and used as an ingredient in cooking. Kimchi soup, kimchi with steamed or fried rice, kimchi ramen, and kimchi pancakes are popular dishes. Kimchi can be tossed with diced tofu and heated or eaten cold for a fast breakfast or lunch. Scramble tofu with kimchi and diced tomatoes for a spicy breakfast entree or for a sandwich or wrap filling. Kimchi perks up cold green, rice, and pasta salads; steamed or grilled vegetables; and cooked pasta, barley, quinoa, spelt, and rice. It can be added to bean or vegetable soups or to casseroles. It can also be used instead of sauce on grilled or baked seitan or tempeh, vegetable brochettes, and baked potatoes.

RECIPES

A note about ingredients:

Since many of us don't have access to Korean markets, many ingredients have been "translated" to more available products. If you have access to an ethnic market, ask about Korean radish, which resembles fresh daikon; Korean pears, which are firmer and less sweet than Bartlett pears; fresh mustard leaves (also available at Indian markets); and red pepper threads.

You'll need earthenware, glass, or porcelain containers to store kimchi in the refrigerator. Don't use plastic or metal containers or decorative china bowls, as the kimchi ingredients will interact with the containers. If you have an extra crock and lid from your crockpot, that will work well. Large mason jars and heavy (thick-walled) mixing bowls also work.

NORTHERN WHITE KIMCHI

(Makes about sixteen 1/2-cup servings)

This white kimchi is a winter kimchi,
meant to last throughout the
cold months. The seasoning of ginger
and garlic is a twist on the usual
commercial kimchi. The juice from
this kimchi can be mixed with cold
rice or noodles for a quick snack.

   3 heads thinly sliced Nopa (or celery)
     cabbage (Save the tough outer leaves;
     do not slice them.)
   3 cups kosher salt (also celled coarse salt)

   4 quarts water
   1 cup peeled, julienne-cut (matchstick)
     daikon radish
 1/4 cup chopped fresh watercress
   4 whole dried mustard leaves*
   3 green onions, chopped (Use entire
     onion, green and white sections.)
   3 cloves garlic, sliced
   2 Tablespoons table salt
   1 cup peer juice or nectar
   2 Tablespoons peeled, sliced flesh ginger
  10 dried dates, chopped
   2 cups cored, sliced unpeeled Bartlett peers
 1/4 cup sliced soaked dried mushrooms **
   2 Tablespoons red pepper flakes

Select, wash, and sanitize several
wide-mouth glass jars or earthenware
containers.

The first step in making kimchi
is to salt the cabbage. Combine
the sliced cabbage and intact
outer leaves with 3 cups of kosher
salt and 4 quarts of water. Allow
to soak for 2 hours or until cabbage
is softened. Rinse well with
cold water and drain. Set aside.

Place radishes in a large bowl.
Add remaining ingredients, except
cabbage, and mix until well combined.
Place one outer leaf on the
bottom of a container or crock.
Add one quarter of mixture and
one quarter of the shredded cabbage.
Place another leaf on top,
cover with mixture and shredded
cabbage, and repeat until either
container is three-quarters full or
mixture is completely used. Place
a weight on top, such as several
small glass plates. Cover and place
in the refrigerator for at least 4
days. Your refrigerated kimchi
should last for one month in the
refrigerator. Mix before each use
to incorporate flavors.

Notes:

* Available at natural foods stores
or Indian markets. If you can't
locate them, just omit them.

** You can find dried mushrooms
in the gourmet section of grocery
stores, in natural food stores, and
at farmers' markets. Soak mushrooms
in just enough water to
cover for 10 minutes, or until
soft. Discard water and slice
mushrooms.

Total calories per serving: 79  Fat: 1 gram
Carbohydrates: 18 grams         Protein: 3 grams
Sodium: See page 23.            Fiber: 7 grams

BUCKWHEAT NOODLES
WITH KIMCHI

(Serves 4)

This soup-like entree can be prepared
with any type of "chewy"
noodles, such as soba, udon, or
broad noodles. Pear adds a bit
of sweetness to this spicy dish.

1/2 pound buckwheat noodles
  2 cups kimchi with its juice
1/2 cup peeled, shredded cucumber
  1 cup extra firm tofu, drained and thinly
    sliced
  1 cup thinly sliced fresh Bartlett pear
  1 quart hot vegetable stock or broth

Bring 2 quarts of water to boil
and cook buckwheat noodles until
tender. Drain.

To serve noodles, prepare as
follows in 4 soup bowls:

* Place 1/2 cup kimchi and juice
in each bowl.

* Add 2 Tablespoons of cucumber
on top of kimchi.

* Add 1/4 cup tofu slices on top
of cucumber.

* Add several slices of pear on top
of tofu.

Just prior to serving, pour I cup
hot vegetable stock over ingredients.
Serve hot.

Total calories per serving: 301   Fat: 2 grams
Carbohydrates: 57 grams           Protein: 12 grams
Sodium: See page 23.              Fiber: 3 grams

KIMCHI RAMYON

(Serves 4)

This is the Korean version of those
instant "cup 'o' noodles" sold in most
stores. Now you can prepare a vegan,
lowfat version. If you can't locate
ramen noodles, use any quick cooking
rice or wheat noodles, such as
vermicelli, fideo, or angel hair pasta.

  1 pound ramen noodles (available in the
    Asian section of most grocery stores)
  4 cups boiling vegetable stock or broth
  2 cups kimchi
  4 green onions, minced
1/2 cup minced red boll peppers
Extra firm tofu cubes (optional)

Add ramen noodles to boiling
stock and allow to cook for 3
minutes. Reduce to simmer and
add kimchi, onions, and peppers.
Allow to simmer for 2 minutes.
Serve hot.

If desired, stir in extra firm
tofu cubes right before serving.

Total calories per serving: 465   Fat: 2 grams
Carbohydrates: 94 grams           Protein: 16 grams
Sodium: See page 23.              Fiber: 4 grams

RICE AND KIMCHI

(Serves 4)

Make your own spicy rice bowl with
the contrasting textures of fresh vegetables
and preserved kimchi.

Vegetable oil spray
    1 cup julienne-cut (matchstick) zucchini
    1 cup French-cut (thinly cut on a diagonal)
      fresh or frozen, thawed grin beans
  1/2 cup fresh soy bean sprouts
  1/4 cup sliced flesh red pepper
    4 cups steamed white rice (Start with
1 3/4 cups uncooked rice.)
    1 cup kimchi

Spray frying pan or wok with
vegetable oil spray. Separately,
quickly saute zucchini, green
beans, sprouts, and peppers.

To serve, arrange rice on each
plate so it covers half the plate,
in a half-moon shape. Arrange a
small amount of zucchini, green
beans, sprouts, and kimchi on
each plate, in individual ribbons
emanating from the rice. Garnish
rice with red peppers. Serve warm.

Total calories per serving: 198   Fat: 1 gram
Carbohydrates: 42 grams           Protein: 6 grams
Sodium: See page 23.              Fiber: 4 grams

KIMCHI SOUP

(Serves 4)

This is a fast way to make a spicy
satisfying soup. Serve with rice or
noodles to create an entree.

Vegetable oil spray
1 clove garlic, minced
3 green onions, chopped
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 cup cubed extra firm or smoked tofu
1 quart boiling vegetable stock
1 cup kimchi

Spray a soup pot with vegetable oil
and allow to heat. Saute garlic and
onions until soft, about 2 minutes.
Add soy sauce and stir for 30 seconds.
Add tofu, stir, and allow to
cook for 2 minutes. Add stock and
kimchi. Allow to simmer, covered,
until flavors are combined, about
10 minutes. Serve warm.

Total calories per serving: 73   Fat: 1 gram
Carbohydrates: 9 grams           Protein: 6 grams
Sodium: See page 23.             Fiber: 1 gram

"INSTANT" FRESH
CABBAGE KIMCHI

(Makes about sixteen 1/2-cup servings)

Use this recipe when you just can't
wait for afresh batch of kimchi.
It takes a little less time to prepare
than traditional kimchi and is ready
to eat immediately. If you have some
left over, package it in glass or earthenware
containers and refrigerate
until ready to use.

 3 heads Napa cabbage
 2 cups kosher salt (also called coarse salt)
 4 green onions, cut into long, thin threads
   (Use entire onion, green and white
   sections.)
 2 fresh chilies, seeded and finely chopped
 2 cloves garlic, minced
 2 Tablespoons peeled, minced fresh ginger
 1 Tablespoon red pepper flakes
 2 Tablespoons hot sauce
 2 teaspoons sugar (Use your favorite
   vegan variety.)
 1 Tablespoon sesame seed oil (optional)

Quarter cabbage heads. Soak in
3 quarts of cold water mixed with
2 cups kosher salt until they just
begin to wilt, about 20-30 minutes.
Drain and wash well. Cut
into narrow strips. Set aside.

In a large bowl, mix onions,
chilies, garlic, ginger, red pepper
flakes, hot sauce, and sugar. Add
cabbage and toss until well coated.
Cover and refrigerate for at least
one hour before serving. It is traditional
to garnish this kimchi with
a drop of sesame seed oil.

Total calories per serving: 37   Fat: 1 gram
Carbohydrates: 7 grams           Protein: 2 grams
Sodium: See page 23.             Fiber: 6 grams

VARIATIONS Pumpkin Kimchi:

Replace cabbage with 3 pounds of fresh pumpkin or winter squash that has been peeled, seeded, and cut into 2-inch squares. Proceed as above.

Leek Kimchi

Replace total cabbage with 36 (about 6 pounds) fresh leeks that have been washed, trimmed, and chopped into 2-inch strips.

Green Chili and Spinach Kimchi:

Replace total cabbage with 30 (about 1 1/2 pounds) fresh green chilies, such as Anaheim chilies, that have been seeded and cut into thin strips and 15 pounds fresh spinach that has been washed and drained.

A note about kimchi and sodium: Because kimchi is soaked in brine, it is nearly impossible to determine how much salt has been absorbed into this dish. Therefore, kimchi is not recommended for individuals who are concerned about their sodium intakes.

Nancy Berkoff, RD, EdD, CCE, is VRG's Food Service Advisor and the author of, most recently, Vegan Microwave Cookbook.