KRUA THAI SHINES WITH SPICY SKILL.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

A fellow I know who claims to have eaten in more than 100 Thai restaurants in and around Los Angeles insists that Krua Thai in North Hollywood is the No. 1 Thai cafe in the Valley.

And he is probably right.

Krua, already chronicled as having the best pad thai in L.A. at its West Covina location, certainly does live up to its laurels.

Its special spicier house version ($6.75) of pad thai, the traditional rice noodle dish, made here in a moister-than-usual way with tamarind juice and sweet radish is nothing less than a delectable treat.

Krua's kitchen, with a comprehensive menu of 127 items, skillfully prepares heavily portioned, full-flavored, authentic Thai recipes that come to the table steaming hot.

Yet with all this satisfaction, the prices are enjoyably modest. Everything is ticketed under $10 with the exception of a steamed whole lemon trout at $10.95.

Of its laudable selection of 10 soup options, one of which is the rarely seen curdled pork blood soup ($6.50), Krua presents a really memorable rendition of cilantro-and-tomato-flavored oxtail soup ($6.95) in a bowl large enough for at least three to share.

First-timers, however, have to try the shrimp cakes (three for $6.75, four for $8.50) here. Moist on the inside, with a crunchy exterior, these delectable shrimp patties served with a piquant dipping sauce provide an extremely pleasant way to start a Krua meal, soup or no soup.

And duck should be high on anyone's priority list.

The pad ka paow version of barbecued duck ($6.95) with mint leaves and red chiles turned out to be a rewarding choice one day recently.

Noticeably, Krua chops its moist, flavorful barbecued duck to make a not-often-found duck larb dish ($5.50). Yes, it has the usual chicken, beef or pork larb versions, reputed here to be superior to those at most Thai eateries.

In the noodle category even Krua's vermicelli ($6.25) seems different.

The very thin noodles, soaked in coconut milk, possess a bright pink tint. When questioned about the reason for the hue, the waiter relayed the kitchen's answer: Asian ketchup.

A couple of dozen large-size rice-dish opportunities, all under $7, allow hungry diners to fill up on any one of Krua's tasty combinations.

Rice can be had with sausage, crab, dried shrimp, duck, ground beef, pork -- you name it. The house's pineapple fried rice is an entire meal for $6.50, coming with shrimp or a seafood mixture, and at $5.50 with chicken, pork or beef.

Crab curry ($7.95), clams with chile paste ($7.25) and spicy steamed mussels ($7.50) offer shellfish highlights. And there are several fish plates.

One of the latter, catfish with chile sauce ($6.95), although good tasting, was full of bones. If you have lots of patience, this dish is fine. Otherwise, forget it.

As for endings, you can be adventurous and go for a Thai slush ($2.50), which allows a choice of three exotic ingredients from a list that includes attap, toddy palm, jackfruit and grass jelly.

Oh yeah, there are also ice creams at the same price.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

KRUA THAI

Food: Three and one half stars - Service: Three stars - Value: Three and one half stars

Where: 13130 Sherman Way, North Hollywood.

Phone: [phone].

Meals/hours: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 3:30 a.m. daily.

Food type: Thai.

Cost: Starters from $4 to $7.50, main-course plates from $5.50 to $11, desserts $2.50 each.

Credit cards: All major.

Patio dining: No.

Parking/valet: Free parking in lot.

Full bar: No alcohol license.

Music/entertainment: No.

Takeout/delivery: Yes on takeout, no delivery service.

Reservations: First come, first served policy.

CAPTION(S):

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Photo:

Krua Thai's beef salad features grilled beef, cucumber, tomato, onion, lime juice and chili.

David Sprague/Staff Photographer