KOSHER - AND COMFORTABLE.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

STRICTLY KOSHER but informal, Dizengoff is a new Israeli-style cafe in Sherman Oaks that takes its name from the happening boulevard in Tel Aviv that's lined with clubs, cafes and restaurants where everybody who's anybody hangs out.

Though it's a bit of a stretch to compare Ventura Boulevard to the Dizengoff thoroughfare, it's certainly the closest you'll get in the San Fernando Valley.

At the local Dizengoff, there's a sidewalk cafe out front sporting several patio tables and chairs where leisurely meals or snacks can be enjoyed; cappuccinos, cafe lattes or cold soft drinks sipped; and the state of the world discussed.

Inside, where it's darker and cooler, there are lines of booths and regular tables, occasionally with a diner praying, nodding quietly while whispering prayers from a card supplied by the restaurant.

Some of the male customers wear yarmulkes (religious skullcaps), but the religious aspect of Dizengoff doesn't seem to get in the way of eating pretty well.

After all, this is a restaurant where the chef and owner is an obvious Jewish motherly type who will bring some of the food out and make sure there's enough and that you enjoy it.

And you will, especially if you order something like the combination salads ($10.95) which brings to your table half a dozen delicious mixtures from everyday hummus to a rich and brazenly peppery Moroccan salad.

The red cabbage salad here was the biggest surprise one afternoon. Shredded carefully and avoiding the usual bitterness, it was crunchy and refreshing - an absolute delight.

A mushroom melange was a super savory success, receiving a boost from caramelized onions, while Dizengoff's eggplant and mushroom mix also earned murmurs of approval.

As with other Middle Eastern kitchens, the kebab is king here.

You can try three of them on a mixed grill platter ($16.95), two being chicken, one with juicy white breast meat, the other called parglot, or more flavorful thigh meat. Th remaining skewer, the popular beef shish kebab, offers several generous-size cubes of seasoned meat alternated with green peppers.

Dizengoff chef Shoshana Mizrachi also cooks a mean beef goulash ($11.95). This and her other entrees come with a choice of two: rice and beans, fries, mashed potatoes or vegetables. Skip the vegetables, they tend to be overcooked and mushy. The rice and beans are best, and the potato options respectable.

Regarding soups and starters, Dizengoff prepares five soups daily, evidently all hearty and freshly made.

The matzo ball (cup $3.50, bowl $5.95) heads the list - and deservedly so - but there's a thick, homey, mushroom barley (cup $2.95, bowl $4.50), that reminds me of a similar wholesome soup my late grandmother made regularly.

With the kitchen out of potato burekas and knishes one day, we settled for a couple of nicely executed, fat and crispy veggie egg rolls ($2.95 for the two) and a trio of Moroccan-style ``cigars'' ($3.95). These are thin, longish pastry tubes filled with seasoned ground meat. Quite tasty.

But Dizengoff puts forth a complimentary, replenishable serving of warm pita bread, a bowl of house-pickled veggies (turnip, celery, etc.) and a sesame dip as soon as you're seated.

Consequently, appetizers are often passed up by prudent, weight-watching customers here.

DIZENGOFF

Food: Three stars. Service: Three stars.

Where: 13718 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

Hours: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Friday. Closed Friday evenings and all day Saturday.

Recommended items: Matzo ball and mushroom barley soups, vegetable egg rolls, Moroccan ``cigars,'' combination salads, mixed grill, beef goulash.

How much: Starters from $2 to $11, pastas and entrees from $8 to $17, desserts $4 each. No alcohol. All major credit cards accepted.

Reservations: Taken. Call [phone].

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Photo:

The baked salmon salad is among the creations available at Dizengoff in Sherman Oaks.

Phil McCarten/Staff Photographer