KNIT PICKING; 'TIS THE SEASON FOR SWEATERS, CAPS - AND ALL THOSE GORGEOUS WEAVES.

Byline: Barbara De Witt Fashion Editor

Loopy knits, crocheted fringe, multicolor weaves, and silky-soft pashmina.

They're the newest purls of wisdom on the fashion front, signaling a global-warming trend for knitwear. And not just sweaters, but all those '70s favorites such as ponchos, capes, shawls, stoles and ski caps.

So ignore those millennium soothsayers who shout the praises of futuristic fabrics that won't snag, tear or self-destruct, and indulge in fashion's softer side, even if it is a little itchy.

Retailers are ready with numerous knits, from Christian Lacroix's pricey multicolor knit dresses to Target's little acrylic knit ski caps. However, the highest-profile styles of the season are Max Azria of BCBG's sleeveless turtleneck sweater knitted with plump yarn that's fattening even on a skinny model; Bette Paige's body-conscious, feather-trimmed separates; and Donna Karan's gossamer-light mohair sweater that is so much like a spider web you'll need a Lycra top underneath for modesty's sake.

Then there's the poncho, that flirty, impractical little coverup that can be knitted, crocheted or worn long, as in Mondi's hooded- blanket style. Even the alpine-inspired ski sweater with a turtleneck by Ralph Lauren and Liz Claiborne is making a comeback.

But it's the pashmina that packs the most panache in the world of clicking needles.

The word pashmina has become synonymous with a silky fringed stole worn by umpteen celebs from Uma Thurman to Julia Roberts, but actually it refers to the silky hairs on the underside of a certain geographically located goat (think Indian and Pakistan), explains Edith Eig, who teaches men and women how to knit the stoles at her Studio City store called La Knitterie Parisienne.

The French-born knitting maven has run her little shop for more than 25 years, catering to the whims of crafty types. And this year, the shop is jammin'.

The reason for the resurgence?

``I believe we are coming back to the old-fashioned quilting bee, where people sit around and talk . . . perhaps because families have become fragmented over the past century,'' Eig said. ``And besides, it's therapeutic, a bit like yoga.''

Her clients? ``They're teen-agers, young moms, movie stars and fashion designers. Some will come in saying they want to learn how to make a pashmina (stole), but it's really difficult since it requires tiny needles and is very time consuming,'' says Eig.

What's easy for beginners, she says, are ponchos and caps. But in the end, it's determination that helps a knitter finish.

Says Eig, ``I had a woman who was inspired because she wanted that new bulky sweater with turned-back cuffs by Marc Jacobs but didn't want to spend $1,500. So she made her own for less than $350.''

And then there was a young man who said he needed to learn how to knit in a few hours so he could get a part in a new Banana Republic commercial. And he did, thanks to Eig.

Other celebrity members of her unofficial knitting club include Bob Mackie and his design team, and performers Shari Belafonte, Brett Butler, Genie Francis, Laurie Metcalf and Julianne Moore.

Although she's not one of Eig's students, Lily Mariye, who plays Nurse Lily on TV's ``ER,'' is also a fan of knitting.

``Knitting is a great way to zone out and yet not take away from what you need to focus on,'' says Mariye, who admits she originally took up the hobby to help herself quit smoking, but found it was a nice pastime while sitting for hours on the set of the television show.

According to Mariye, ``I think the hand-crafted fashion trend is cool, especially since I didn't grow up with it like baby boomers did. My all-time favorite is a blue sweater, the first thing I knitted all by myself . . . without my mother's help. And I think that's part of the popularity of the trend . . . the idea that someone compliments you not only for the style but the idea and the workmanship.''

Although lots of men have started knitting since Rosie Greer made it politically correct a few years ago, Mariye says she hasn't been able to teach her husband, jazz saxophonist Boney James, the fine art of knitting.

``He's too impatient. He'd rather just go to the store and buy one,'' she says with a laugh.

For those like him, 'tis the season.

Our models

Names: Lily Mariye and Boney James.

She's: Nurse Lily Jarvik on the TV drama ``ER'' (10 p.m. Thursdays on NBC).

He's: A jazz saxophonist who made his solo debut at Le Cafe in Sherman Oaks. His sixth and newest recording, ``Body Language'' (Warner Bros.), has spent nine months on Billboard's top contemporary jazz albums chart.

She was born in: Las Vegas.

He was born in: Lowell, Mass., but raised in New Rochelle, N.Y.

Sun signs: She's a Libra, he's a Virgo.

Marital status: Married, with two cats, Oscar and Samantha Stevens.

Education: Both graduated from the University of California, Los Angeles. She has a bachelor's degree in theater, he has a bachelor's degree in history.

Favorite Valley hangout: Teru Sushi in Studio City. ``Lots of celebs eat there. Once we saw Rob Lowe,'' says Mariye.

Favorite music: ``Besides mine, it's Bobby Darin,'' says James, who credits Grover Washington Jr. and Earth, Wind and Fire as his inspirations.

Personal interests: In addition to knitting, Mariye enjoys decorating their 1918 Craftsman home with her husband. ``Someone had turned it into a disco mini-palace with mirrors everywhere, including the bathroom, where the view from the toilet was, well, you know ...'' said Mariye, who has restored the room with a footed tub and pedestal sink.

New projects: Mariye makes her directorial debut with ``Shangri-la Cafe,'' a short film shot at the former Sharks Bar in Santa Clarita. The film will premiere at the American Film Institute in 2000.

- Barbara De Witt

CAPTION(S):

6 Photos

Photo: (1 -- cover -- color) On the cover: Actress Lily Mariye of TV's ``ER'' camps it up with a chenille knit hat by Nordstrom, $34; Custo top with crocheted fringe, $75; and fringe-trimmed Levi's jeans, $177. All from Nordstrom.

Hairstyle by Yoshi Hagiwara; makeup by David Sokolsky of Frederic Fekkai Beaute de Provence of Beverly Hills.

(2 -- color) Mariye joins the latest knitting craze in her ruffled gray sweater by XOXO, $54; with snakeskin print jeans by Paris Blues, $38. Both from Robinsons-May.

(3 -- color) Jazz saxophonist James serenades his wife at their West Hollywood home. He's wearing a cable knit wool sweater, $385, by Holland & Holland of Beverly Hills. She's wearing a peek-a-boo-back sweater, $58, by XOXO from Robinsons-May.

(4 -- color) Her poncho, shown here in red acrylic by Laundry, $98 from Nordstrom, makes a fashionable comeback.

(5 -- color) Ready for snow in the Southland are Lily Mariye in an alpine design by Liz Claiborne, $69, from Robinsons-May and Boney James in a silk turtleneck sweater by Anthology, $95, from Nordstrom. Acrylic knit scarves are from Robinsons-May.

(6 -- color) Mariye gets wrapped up in pashmina-mania with a lavender design by Bindya, $198, worn over a Christian Lacroix two-piece knit dress, $535. All from Nordstrom.

Photos by John Lazar/Staff Photographer

Box: Our models (See text)