Jumping Into The Jean Pool.

roll goods producer finds a wealth of opportunity in denim waste

Think twice before you throw out those old jeans. Advantage Manufacturing Group (AMG), Claremore, OK, has entered the nonwovens industry with its needlepunched fabrics made from denim scrap. According to executive vice president Joy Nunn, the company had been in the R&D stage since 1994 and started processing materials for sales in the fall of 1998. "We spent a tremendous amount of time perfecting products utilizing recycled fibers," Ms. Nunn explained. Currently AMG targets the transportation and personal care/medical markets and is working on entering the logo-driven sports arena market for schools, colleges and universities.

Turning Scrap Into Profit

AMG was founded in 1996 by Gary Hirsch--an entrepreneur who had already been involved in the adult incontinence market for 21 years. Mr. Hirsch saw the opportunity to improve traditional incontinence products through the use of bleached cotton. He found that there was an abundance of 100% cotton denim scrap, which was being disposed of through incineration or in landfills. About 75% of the fiber used by AMG is cotton and it does use some recycled man-made fibers such as polyesters. Ms. Nunn explained that cotton has been the most difficult market because recycled cotton fiber--which breaks easily--tends to be a very short fiber. However, through its R&D efforts, the company has been able to overcome this problem. "We have technologies in place that utilize certain processes and maintain the integrity of the length and strength of the cotton fiber," Ms. Nunn added. "If you can get a cotton fiber that is not only absorbent but also strong and breathable, then it definitely surpasses all the man-made fibers tha t are in the marketplace today."

Through these processes, AMG is able to make needlepunched nonwovens and is in the midst of working on a hydroentangled product, which the company plans to produce within the next 18-24 months. AMG ultimately intends to recycle and reuse the products it manufactures so a complete circle is formed.

Along with the production of nonwoven fabrics, which makes up 40% of AMG's total sales, the company resells fibers to other industries to manufacture other types of nonwovens as well as to the spinning industry for woven textiles. AMG is working on finalizing its patented process for extracting the indigo dye from the denim scrap prior to the fibers being opened, which can then be resold into the indigo dye market. According to Ms. Nunn, AMG will be active in the market with full production of the extraction technology within the next nine to 12 months. Until then, the company makes its nonwovens with the predyed cotton, eliminating the need for redying the material.

A Wasteless Future

AMG has much planned for the near future. The company is about to install a brand new Dilo needlepunch line, which will be on line late spring/early summer of 2000. While AMG has spent between $13-14 million on capital equipment to data, the company plans to invest up to $80 million in equipment. As for new markets, AMG is very interested in entering the wipes market and furthering its development in the medical market. The company has also decided to open certain areas of its business for venture capitals with partners. AMG also plans to expand its global market influence from the U.S. to other countries in Europe and Asia "We feel the quality and competitiveness of the product, as far as cost is concerned, offers us opportunities worldwide," Ms. Nunn said.

AMG expects to see tremendous growth within the next four years as the company takes all R&D trial and testing experience and puts it to real use. "The future of AMG is enormous," explained Ms. Nunn. "We are headed toward high value, high end markets by turning fibers that once were thrown away into consumer products that truly have a value."