JUST FOR MOM; CALIFORNIA-STYLE CREATIONS FROM NEW COOKBOOK.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Daily News Food Editor

Sometimes the best thing you can give Mom is hugs, kisses and a creation you've cooked with love from the kitchen. It's the thought - not the money spent - that counts.

This year, instead of rushing around at the last minute to buy a gift, give something homemade - either a plate of cookies or a cake, or whip up a salad or appetizer - to take and serve on her special day. Or invite her to share a light meal with you. Several recipe possibilities that are easy on the cook and go together in a jiffy are included in today's collection.

The creations are from a hot-off-the-press cookbook, ``Mama Cooks California Style - New Twists on Jewish Classics,'' by volunteers at the Jewish Home for the Aging in Reseda. It's a stylish 277-page volume, with a colorful cover photograph, containing more than 250 recipes. The recipes are mostly quick and easily doable, even for novice cooks.

This, the home's first cookbook, was an outgrowth of its huge Mother's Day celebration, now in its third year, where elderly residents, families and guests enjoy a catered brunch and entertainment.

``We talked about doing a fund-raising cookbook two years ago while planning the Mother's Day program,'' noted Annabel Goldstein, a senior development executive at the home, ``but we didn't know where to begin.'' After a little research and getting some volunteers involved, the project took off. ``We had no idea how much work it would entail or how long it would take,'' added Goldstein.

The book was in the works for more than a year and a half. After more than 500 recipes were collected from residents of the Jewish Home for the Aging (there are some 750), their families, staff, donors and support groups, they were sorted and culled for duplication, and recipe testing began, said Harriet Part, the book's volunteer food editor and an assistant in food testing for the Daily News' Restaurant Replicas column. Part eliminated recipes that came from food ads and mundane dishes.

Recipes running the gamut from appetizers and soups to sea fare, pasta possibilities and sweets were parceled out to committee members for testing at their own expense. ``But we could select the recipes we wanted to test,'' noted Sherry Watnick, a member of the testing, tasting and proofreading committees, who favored making desserts.

``I was always interested in testing reduced-fat recipes - and avoided desserts,'' added volunteer tester Roberta Delevie, noting that ``we cooked and cooked and cooked during the testing period.''

``The members then met twice monthly - bringing the dishes - usually about 30 total - they had tested for the rest of the committee to taste and evaluate for flavor and ease of preparation,'' said Part, adding that this went on for most of a year.

Even though it was a huge amount of work, ``We were committed to testing the recipes,'' said Part, a home economist, adding that ``it would reflect poorly on the home if people questioned the recipes, ingredients were missing or the recipes didn't work. The purpose of doing the cookbook was to raise money for the home's projects and activities for the residents, and if you have a good cookbook, it sells for years.''

``The best part of the recipe testing was the tasting sessions,'' noted Watnick. ``We had fun checking out all the recipes. A lot of times, we tested the recipes a couple of times to perfect them.''

During the testing, it became apparent that you can't always judge a recipe on paper. ``Some recipes sounded good, but were lacking flavor and seasonings - or had too much when tested,'' pointed out Part, adding that a meatball recipe with too much cumin and a flavorless toffee cookie come to mind - neither made the cut. ``We had our share of recipes that were tossed out - either the contributor had made a mistake in the ingredient amounts, didn't season the dish properly, or the finished result had no flavor.''

But there were some odd-sounding recipes that made it into the book - including a mock gefilte fish made with canned tuna. ``My husband couldn't believe it wasn't real gefilte fish,'' added Part, noting that it was easy - and had the aroma of the real thing. A no-bake cookie (included on page 2) was another sleeper - ``It looked like nothing special but was really easy and delicious,'' noted Part. A Passover Florentine cookie made with matzo farfel and matzo cake meal fooled everyone, too. No one could believe it contained matzo farfel because of the vanilla and almond flavor.

When recipes - especially desserts, muffins and breads - were tested with reduced-fat or nonfat ingredient counterparts, often the results were unpalatable and unacceptable, noted Part adding that in most cases, reduced-fat ingredients worked better than nonfat substitutes.

Although all of the recipes in the cookbook are kosher - meaning that meat and dairy are not mixed in the same recipe and there is no pork, shrimp or shellfish in any of the recipes - not all are Jewish, noted Part.

The cookbook committee opted for broad appeal in its recipe selections. ``We also made a conscious effort to include California-style recipes with '90s appeal - with an abundance of vegetables and fish - and with reduced-fat product options where feasible. ``We tried to cut out extra fat and calories,'' emphasized Part, ``but not at the expense of taste.''

Besides using numerous recipes as they were submitted, Part and her committee took the liberty of altering and updating some of the recipe ideas, giving them new ingredient twists, a lighter and fresher touch, and adapting preparation methods to use modern-day appliances such as food processors, blenders, electric mixers and bread machines where applicable.

The ``I Remember Mama'' chapter is chock-full of Old World favorites - Cheese Blintzes, Challah, Mama's Swedish Meatballs, Betty's Best Brisket Knishes, Stuffed Cabbage My Way and Bubbe Feggie's Lukshen Kugel to name a few - that have been passed down in families through the generations. The endearing but short introductions to the dishes invoke memories - and include the origins of these creations from the past.

Unlike some volunteer-produced cookbooks that don't provide package and pan sizes, this one includes specifics in most instances (just a few can sizes were spotted missing and a few had incorrect sizes) which eliminates guesswork and help cooks produce excellent results.

Although Part and her committee proofread the recipes as they were tested and typed, a committee of five spent a full week proofreading the galleys at the end. ``By far, the worst and hardest part of compiling the book was the proofreading - and eliminating recipes,'' said Part. ``We had so many recipes that we would liked to have included but couldn't because of space limitations.''

The book will debut Sunday during the third-annual Largest Mother's Day Celebration in the World at the home, where the average age is 90. It is available at local bookstores or by mail order by calling the home at [phone]. Proceeds from the book will be used to underwrite life-enhancing activities for the home's residents.

Here are some recipes from the cookbook.

VEGETABLE PIZZA DIP

This is a crowd-pleaser that is easily put together.

1 package (8 ounces) softened cream cheese (Neufchatel, if desired)

1/2 cup dairy sour cream

1 teaspoon oregano 

1/8 teaspoon garlic powder (optional)

1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper (optional)

1/2 cup pizza sauce

1/4 cup chopped green bell pepper

1/4 cup chopped onion

1/4 cup chopped ripe olives

1/4 cup chopped mushrooms

1/2 cup shredded mozzarella cheese

In a mixing bowl, beat together cream cheese, sour cream, oregano, garlic powder and red pepper until well-blended. Spread evenly in a 9- or 10-inch quiche dish or pie plate. Spread pizza sauce evenly over top. Sprinkle with green pepper, onion, olives and mushrooms.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 10 minutes. Top with mozzarella cheese and bake an additional 5 minutes. Serve hot with pita chips, bagel chips or nacho chips. Makes 6 to 8 appetizer servings.

MARINATED HARVEST SALAD

Easily put together - perfect for a party

6 zucchini, parboiled 3 to 4 minutes, chilled and cut into thin diagonal slices

1 medium red onion, sliced

1 medium green bell pepper, sliced

1 medium red bell pepper, sliced

1 pint box cherry tomatoes

1 can (about 4 to 5 ounces) sliced ripe olives, drained

1/4 cup finely chopped parsley

1 can (about 14 ounces) garbanzo beans, drained

1/3 cup wine vinegar 

2/3 cup vegetable oil

1 teaspoon Italian seasonings (oregano, basil and thyme)

1 tablespoon drained capers 

1/4 teaspoon mustard

2 cloves garlic, minced

Salt and pepper to taste

In a large bowl, combine all ingredients. Season well and refrigerate at least 2 to 3 hours before serving. Makes 6 servings.

NOTE: Can be made a least 2 days ahead.

MAMA'S CALIFORNIA BOW-TIE PASTA SALAD

This salad looks beautiful when served in hollowed-out large tomatoes.

1 package (8 ounces) bow-tie pasta

1/2 to 2/3 cup sun-dried tomatoes, drained from oil and finely chopped

1/3 cup minced fresh basil

1/3 cup chopped, pitted kalamata olives

3/4 cup crumbled feta cheese

2 tablespoons olive oil 

1 1/2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

Salt and pepper to taste

Cook pasta according to package directions. Drain. Cool to room temperature.

In a large mixing bowl, combine pasta with all remaining ingredients. Chill until serving time. Makes 4 servings.

NO-BAKE ALMOND CHOCOLATE COOKIES

Not too many cookies are easier to make - or eat

1 cup semisweet chocolate chips

1 cup butterscotch-flavored chips

3/4 cup sifted powdered sugar

1/2 cup dairy sour cream (use light, if desired)

1 teaspoon grated lemon peel

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 3/4 cups vanilla wafer crumbs 

3/4 cup chopped toasted almonds

In a microwave-safe bowl, combine chocolate and butterscotch chips. Heat on high power in microwave oven 1 1/2 to 2 minutes until smooth and melted when stirred. Stir in powdered sugar, sour cream, lemon peel and salt until smooth. Blend in wafer crumbs. Refrigerate 15 to 20 minutes or until firm.

Shape into 1-inch balls; then roll in chopped almonds. Store in a covered container in refrigerator. Makes about 3 1/2 dozen.

FROZEN PISTACHIO PUDDING 

This molded frozen pudding can be served as a dessert and is also delicious with dairy, meat or poultry.

1 package (3.4 ounces) pistachio flavor INSTANT pudding and pie filling mix

1 can (20 ounces) crushed pineapple, packed in juice

1 carton (8 ounces) nondairy frozen whipped topping, partially thawed

1 cup chopped pistachios, pecans OR walnuts, toasted

Put pudding mix in a large bowl. Add undrained crushed pineapple to pudding and stir until well mixed. Gently fold in whipped topping and nuts.

Spray a 1-quart mold with vegetable spray or line with plastic wrap. Turn mixture into mold. Cover with foil and freeze.

When ready to serve, let pudding stand at room temperature 15 to 20 minutes. Remove foil. Place serving plate over top and turn upside down. Mold should drop out. If necessary, pull gently on plastic wrap. Smooth out creases with a knife. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

NOTE: If recipe is doubled, use a 12-cup bundt mold. Allow an additional 15 minutes at room temperature before serving.

ANNEBEL'S OVERNIGHT CHEESECAKE

2 cups macaroon crumbs

4 packages (8 ounces EACH) cream cheese (use Neufchatel, if desired)

1 1/2 cups sugar

6 eggs

2 tablespoons flour

1 pint whipping cream 

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla

Press crumbs into bottom of a well-buttered 9 1/2-inch springform pan. In large bowl of electric mixer, combine all remaining ingredients in order given, beating well after each addition. After last addition, beat about 15 minutes longer.

Cover outside ottom of pan with foil to prevent leakage; pour mixture into prepared pan.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 1 hour. Turn off oven and leave cheesecake in oven with oven door closed. It's best to bake the cheesecake at night and remove next morning. Keep refrigerated.

When ready to serve, decorate with fresh berries and orange slices. Makes 10 to 12 servings.

LEMON MERINGUE PUFF

This puff is spectacular looking and just as delicious tasting.

MERINGUE CRUST:

6 egg whites

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 cups sugar

LEMON FILLING:

1 1/2 cups sugar

1/3 cup cornstarch 

2 cups water

1/3 cup fresh lemon juice

3 egg yolks

1 carton (12 ounces) frozen nondairy whipped topping, thawed

To make Meringue Crust, in bowl of electric mixer, beat egg whites until frothy. Add salt and beat until soft peaks form. Beat in sugar, 2 tablespoons at a time at low speed. Continue beating until meringue forms stiff peaks.

With margarine, heavily grease a deep 10-inch pie pan. Spread a thick layer of meringue over bottom and up sides of pan to form crust.

Bake in preheated 300-degree oven 30 to 45 minutes or until stiff to touch. Turn off oven. Cool in oven 10 minutes.

To make Lemon Filling, in a medium saucepan, combine sugar and cornstarch. Whisk in water. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until mixture comes to a boil. Boil 1 minute.

Remove from heat. Stir in lemon juice. In a bowl, stir egg yolks with a fork to blend. Add a large spoonful of lemon filling to eggs. Then, slowly stir mixture back into lemon filling in saucepan. Continue to stir and cook another minute or two. Remove from heat and pour into a large bowl.

Cover top of filling with plastic wrap. Cool to room temperature. Fold in thawed whipped topping.

Spoon into Meringue Crust. Wrap in plastic wrap and freeze. When ready to serve, remove from freezer and thaw in refrigerator 30 minutes. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

CAVIAR TART

This appetizer never fails to please - it's easy to put together and very good!

8 hard-cooked eggs

1/3 cup butter, melted, OR mayonnaise

1 tablespoon grated onion

Garlic pepper to taste

1 pint dairy sour cream (use light, if desired)

1 jar (2 ounces) red OR black caviar

Cucumber slices

Cocktail rye bread slices

Grate eggs in a large mixing bowl. Add melted butter, onion and garlic pepper. Stir until well-combined.

Press into a 9-inch pie plate. Stir sour cream, while in carton, and then spread in an even layer over eggs. Refrigerate 1 hour. Make a border around pie with caviar. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until serving time. Serve with cucumber slices and rye bread. Makes 12 servings.

CALIFORNIA MEDITERRANEAN SALAD

3 ripe tomatoes, diced

1 large cucumber, peeled and cut into chunks

1 small red onion, finely minced

2 small avocados, peeled, pitted and cubed

1/4 cup minced fresh parsley

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons olive oil

Salt and black pepper to taste

1/2 cup pitted kalamata olives

Combine tomatoes, cucumber, red onion, avocados and parsley. Whisk together lemon juice and olive oil and pour over salad. Season with salt and pepper. Toss with olives and serve. Makes 4 servings.

MARINATED GREEN BEAN AND RED PEPPER SALAD

This can be prepared a day in advance of serving.

1 pound green beans 

Water

1 medium red bell pepper, seeded and cut into slivers

1 small red onion, thinly sliced and separated into rings

3 tablespoons red OR white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 large cloves garlic, minced

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon dried basil

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

1/4 cup vegetable OR olive oil

8 large lettuce leaves

Minced fresh parsley

Crumbled feta cheese (optional)

Trim beans and cut each into 2 or 3 pieces. Pour water into a 3-quart saucepan to a depth of about 2 inches. Bring to a boil. Add green beans. Cook, uncovered, until just tender, about 5 minutes. Drain and rinse beans under cold water. Place in a shallow glass dish along with red pepper and red onion.

In a small mixing bowl, combine vinegar, mustard, garlic, sugar and basil; add salt and pepper. Using a wire whisk, gradually beat in oil until well-blended. Spoon dressing over mixture. Cover with plastic wrap or foil and refrigerate overnight or until serving time.

Put large lettuce leaves on a serving platter. Drain vegetables from dressing and place on lettuce leaves. Sprinkle with parsley and feta cheese. Makes 8 servings.

TOASTED PECAN AND POPPYSEED CAKE

Once you've assembled the ingredients, this cake goes together in a flash.

3 cups flour

2 cups sugar

1 1/4 cups vegetable oil

2 teaspoons vanilla

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon baking soda 

1 can (12 ounces) evaporated milk

1 can (12 1/2 ounces) poppyseed filling

1 cup chopped, toasted pecans

In bowl of electric mixer, combine all ingredients in order given. Beat until batter is smooth. Spoon into a well-greased 10-inch bundt pan.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 1 hour and 10 minutes. Makes 12 to 16 servings.

FRESH FRUIT BUTTERMILK CRUMB CAKE 

An old favorite now made with buttermilk baking mix - and it still has that old-time flavor.

2 1/3 cups buttermilk baking mix (such as Bisquick)

1/3 cup plus 3 tablespoons packed brown sugar

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

3/4 cup buttermilk

1 large egg

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Grated peel of 1 orange

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

2 tablespoons butter

1/3 cup coarsely chopped walnuts

1 pound fresh, ripe peaches, peeled and pitted (OR use nectarines, plums OR apples)

1/4 cup granulated sugar 

In medium bowl of electric mixer at low speed, blend together 2 cups baking mix, 1/3 cup brown sugar, baking soda, buttermilk, egg, oil and orange peel. Increase speed and beat 2 to 3 minutes longer. Set aside.

In another bowl, combine remaining 1/3 cup baking mix, remaining 3 tablespoons brown sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg. Using a fork, pastry blender or fingers, work in butter until coarse crumbs form. Stir in walnuts. Set aside.

In another bowl, combine peaches with 1/4 cup granulated sugar. Set aside.

Pour 1/2 of batter into a greased 9-inch springform pan, spreading evenly. Sprinkle with 1/2 of crumb mixture. Spread remaining batter over crumb mixture. Arrange peaches over batter. Sprinkle with remaining crumb mixture.

Bake in preheated 400-degree oven 35 to 40 minutes. Loosen edges around cake and cool. Makes 10 servings.

CAPTION(S):

3 Photos

Photo: (1--Color) no caption (Fruits, vegetables, bread; cheese; pasta)

(2--Color) Volunteers Anne Goldstein, left, Annabel Goldstein, Sherry Watnick and Roberta Delevie present creations perfect for serving on Mother's Day from the new Jewish Home for the Aging cookbook.

(3) Claire Kunin, left, Harriet Part and Anne Goldstein put finishing touches on dishes from the new cookbook, ``Mama Cooks California Style'' - Marinated Harvest Salad, left, Vegetable Pizza Dip and Bow-Tie Pasta Salad.

Gus Ruelas/Daily News