JULIA & JACQUES; CULINARY GIANTS INVITE YOU INTO THE KITCHEN TO SHARE DELICIOUS HOME COOKING ON THEIR NEW TELEVISION SERIES.Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor Two of the world's culinary legends, Julia Child Julia Child (August 15, 1912–August 13, 2004) was a famous American cook, author, and television personality who introduced French cuisine and cooking techniques to the American mainstream through her many cookbooks and television programs. and Jacques Pepin, have teamed up this season to cook on public television, a place where they feel right at home, individually or together, and where they have been cooking cumulatively for more than 50 years - and influencing the way Americans cook. The duo - whose friendship dates back some 40 years to when they met in New York New York, state, United States New York, Middle Atlantic state of the United States. It is bordered by Vermont, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and the Atlantic Ocean (E), New Jersey and Pennsylvania (S), Lakes Erie and Ontario and the Canadian province of - was in town last week (on Child's old stomping grounds) at a fund-raising dinner for KCET KCET Konami Computer Entertainment Tokyo (Japan) KCET Kamaraj College of Engineering and Technology (Channel 28) and to tout the series (it airs on KCET at 11 a.m. Saturdays) and its companion cookbook, ``Julia and Jacques: Cooking at Home (Alfred A. Knopf; $40). Most of the 100 people attending the gourmet event hosted by the Ritz-Carlton, Huntington Hotel Huntington Hotel may refer to:
leek Hardy, vigorous, biennial plant (Allium porrum) of the lily family, native to the eastern Mediterranean and the Middle East. It has a mild, sweet, onionlike flavour. and Potato Soup, Salmon in Potato Case with Tomato Coulis cou·lis n. A thick sauce made of puréed fruit or vegetables: raspberry coulis. [French, strained liquid, from Old French couleis, from Vulgar Latin , Steak Au Poivre steak au poiv·re n. pl. steaks au poivre Steak studded with coarsely ground pepper before cooking and often flambéed with cognac. and Pears in Chocolate Sauce. The new show was inspired by the success of Child's and Pepin's two-hour PBS PBS in full Public Broadcasting Service Private, nonprofit U.S. corporation of public television stations. PBS provides its member stations, which are supported by public funds and private contributions rather than by commercials, with educational, cultural, ``Cooking in Concert'' special. But a novel approach, largely improvised, was used this time around. Filmed in the kitchen of Child's old Victorian house Overview A Victorian house as built in the United States and Canada is a type of house popularized in the Victorian era. They are often three stories high with an octagonal or rounded tower, a wraparound porch and great attention paid to detail. in Cambridge, Mass., Child and Pepin cooked without any recipes or cookbook - just a counter filled with an array of ingredients appropriate to a theme for the show (discussed in advance), such as poultry, fish, salads and so forth. There was no script and no rehearsals. Geoffrey Drummond Geoffrey Heneage Drummond VC (25 January 1886- 21 April 1941) was an English recipient of the Victoria Cross, the highest and most prestigious award for gallantry in the face of the enemy that can be awarded to British and Commonwealth forces. , whose A La Carte Communications has filmed some of Child's other shows, agreed to do the series. Two shows (each filming took about two hours and was then edited down to 27-1/2 minutes for the series) were filmed daily for 15 to 17 days straight, noted Drummond. Working this way posed some problems for camera operators and producers, but Child and Pepin favored their new-found freedom. ``We tried to work more the way it is when you're cooking at home,'' said Pepin. ``It was almost like cooking from the market.'' Child and Pepin just cooked together, chatted, chopped, sliced and kept bantering. For instance, if they decided to do roast chicken, they improvised the creation - tasting throughout and making adjustments as they went along. ``Sometimes we created two different chicken dishes; other times we worked together on just one,'' noted Child. What you see at the end of the show is the actual dish they created and worked on - not a completely different one cooked just for viewing, as is commonplace on other television shows where time is limited. ``We each had our own points of view and comments about specific foods and ways of doing things,'' continued Pepin. ``We had our little disagreements - I like kosher salt kosher salt n. A refined, coarse-grained salt with no additives. [From its use in making meat kosher by drawing out the blood.] , she doesn't; I like black pepper black pepper or pepper Perennial, woody climbing vine (Piper nigrum) of the family Piperaceae, native to India; also, the hotly pungent spice made from its berries. , she likes white pepper. ``But on the whole, we agreed as to what is important: taste over appearance, simplicity in recipes, using the proper techniques, using the best-quality ingredients, following the seasons, keeping an open mind to new food preparations and, of course, sharing both wine and food with family and friends,'' said Pepin. ``We don't care
"Don't Care" is a 1994 (see 1994 in music) single by American death metal band Obituary. about nutrients; we care about taste,'' chimed in Child, adding that the show is geared to people who like to cook. So how did the cookbook come about? Writer David Nussbaum had the difficult task of extrapolating the recipes created during the tapings and organizing them into something that would make sense to the reader. ``What we both want to show in the programs and in the book is our approach to cooking,'' said Child. ``We didn't try to be French. We cooked dishes we like to cook and eat and that our family and friends like - and we didn't try to do everything. We drank lots of wine, discussed cooking, tasted and argued,'' said Child jokingly in her familiar, breathy voice Breathy voice or murmured voice is a phonation in which the vocal cords vibrate, as they do in normal (modal) voicing, but are held further apart, so that a larger volume of air escapes between them. This produces an audible noise. . It was much more free-form, relaxed and easier than when you have to worry about the time element (as is usually the case in taped 30-minute shows with no editing), when some guy is holding up a sign noting that you have 2-1/2 minutes left, and you have to frantically rush to finish the dish and present it on camera, added Pepin. Drummond said there was continually an element of surprise for Child and Pepin and for the 25 people working on the show, and Pepin agreed: ``It was really an adventure in a way, as we were not sure when we tasted the final dish if we'd like it,'' said the chef. ``Food is not only our business but our greatest pleasure - and we think its preparation should be a joyful occupation,'' emphasized Child. ``Nothing is written in stone,'' said Pepin. ``We are trying to free people of the structure and discipline of written recipes.'' Be flexible. If you run out of something when you're making a recipe, substitute or improvise. And like home cooks everywhere, Child and Pepin use canned or convenience foods such as canned tuna, chicken broth Noun 1. chicken broth - a stock made with chicken chicken stock broth, stock - liquid in which meat and vegetables are simmered; used as a basis for e.g. soups or sauces; "she made gravy with a base of beef stock" , tomatoes and the like. ``The proof of the pudding proof of the pudding n. Informal The ultimate evidence attesting the true nature of something: The proof of the pudding is in the election results, not the polling. is in the eating,'' said Pepin, ``and if it is good, however you did it is OK.'' For instance, ``Who cares if the bread you serve is homemade, as long as it is good.'' When asked - during a question-and-answer session at the dinner - about the changes in American cooking and eating, Child recalled that when she started out writing cookbooks and cooking on television in the '60s, American tastes favored gelatin gelatin or animal jelly, foodstuff obtained from connective tissue (found in hoofs, bones, tendons, ligaments, and cartilage) of vertebrate animals by the action of boiling water or dilute acid. salad molds filled with bananas, diced marshmallows and grapes served on iceberg lettuce iceberg lettuce n. A crisp, round, compact head of lettuce with light green, tightly folded leaves. [From its pale color. - and ``horrible food'' like those little individual snowball coconut cakes. Pepin noted that when he came to America more than 40 years ago, he had to go to special stores to buy white mushrooms. ``There were no shallots, leeks, special vinegars or oils in the markets - it was another world.'' As for trends in the year 2000 and beyond, Child hopes that more people will cook more real foodie-type food and eat together. ``You don't have to pig out on anything.'' Opt for moderation (have a bit of everything), small helpings, no stacking - and exercise, she advised. ``If you're not eating well, you're not satisfied.'' Pepin added, there is ``extraordinary food in this country now - maybe the best food in the world.'' And he foresees an ethnic cauldron brewing with so many chefs from different parts of the world now in this country. The future will bring more fusion cooking Noun 1. fusion cooking - cooking that combines ingredients and techniques and seasonings from different cuisines cookery, cooking, preparation - the act of preparing something (as food) by the application of heat; "cooking can be a great art"; "people are needed - with different themes from different countries, he predicted. Following are some recipes to try from ``Julia and Jacques: Cooking at Home.'' JULIA'S BASIC LEEK AND POTATO SOUP For the home soup maker, the marriage of leeks and potatoes is a heavenly one. Cooked together in broth or water just until tender, with the simplest seasoning, the two unassuming vegetables have an affinity, yielding a thick, satisfying soup of harmonious flavors and hearty textures. You can serve leek-and-potato soup straight from the pot with the vegetables in coarse chunks or you may change the soup's texture and appearance by mashing, straining or pureeing it. Or refrigerate re·frig·er·ate tr.v. re·frig·er·at·ed, re·frig·er·at·ing, re·frig·er·ates 1. To cool or chill (a substance). 2. To preserve (food) by chilling. , to serve chilled, with a bit of cream, as the famed vichyssoise vi·chys·soise n. A thick creamy potato soup flavored with leeks and onions, usually served cold. [French, from feminine of vichyssois, of Vichy.] Noun 1. . This recipe uses water and a slight thickening of flour and butter. It yields 2 quarts of delicious soup. 2 tablespoons butter 3 cups sliced leeks, white and palest green, trimmed and rinsed (from 12 ounces untrimmed leeks) 1 1/2 cups sliced onions (about 6 ounces OR 2 medium onions) 2 tablespoons flour 6 cups water 4 cups peeled, diced potatoes, preferably russets, cut into 2-inch chunks (about 1 1/2 pounds) 1 1/2 teaspoons salt OR to taste 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper OR to taste Melt butter in a heavy 3- or 4-quart saucepan over moderate heat. Stir in leek and onion pieces to coat with butter; cover pan and reduce heat. Cook slowly, stirring occasionally, 10 to 15 minutes, until vegetables are very soft but not colored. Uncover, sprinkle on flour, stir to distribute well and cook 2 minutes over moderate heat. Remove from heat and let cool for a moment. Then, stirring continually, gradually pour in 1 1/2 cups water and bring to a simmer. When liquid is smooth and starts to thicken thick·en tr. & intr.v. thick·ened, thick·en·ing, thick·ens 1. To make or become thick or thicker: Thicken the sauce with cornstarch. The crowd thickened near the doorway. 2. , stir in rest of water, then add potatoes and season with salt and pepper
Serve soup as is or mash, blend or puree pu·rée or pu·ree tr.v. pu·réed or pu·reed, pu·rée·ing or pu·ree·ing, pu·rées or pu·rees To rub through a strainer or process (food) in a blender. n. soup to desired consistency and adjust seasonings. Garnish soup with sour cream, chopped fresh chives chives alliumschoenoprasm. or buttered croutons. To store soup, let cool uncovered, then refrigerate or freeze. Makes 2 quarts. JACQUE'S CROQUE CROQUE Cost- and Rule-Based Optimization of Object Queries (database research project, Germany) MADAME 1 tablespoon soft butter OR more if needed 2 slices home-style white bread 2 OR more slices Swiss cheese (such as Gruyere OR Emmentaler), about 1/8-inch thick (enough to cover both bread slices) Several slices cooked chicken, about 1/8-inch thick (enough to cover one bread slice) 1 teaspoon chopped fresh chives Few dashes Tabasco sauce (optional) Spread a thin layer of soft butter on one side only of both bread slices, then cover buttered sides neatly with a layer of cheese. Arrange a layer of chicken on one bread slice and sprinkle on chives and a few dashes Tabasco. Flip other piece of bread over on top (cheese inside), press together and spread more butter on outsides of sandwich, coating slices evenly. Lay assembled sandwich in a shallow-rimmed baking dish and prepare others in same way. Bake in preheated 400-degree oven 10 minutes or so, until bottom side is crisp and golden. Flip over and bake for about 5 minutes more, until second side is also well toasted. Serve hot. For appetizer portions, trim off crusts and cut each sandwich diagonally into 4 small triangles. Makes 1 sandwich. JULIA'S LEMON-OIL DRESSING 1 tablespoon minced shallots OR green onions 2 teaspoons Dijon-style prepared mustard 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed
About 1/4 teaspoon salt OR more to taste Freshly ground black pepper to taste 1/2 cup excellent olive oil olive oil, pale yellow to greenish oil obtained from the pulp of olives by separating the liquids from solids. Olive oil was used in the ancient world for lighting, in the preparation of food, and as an anointing oil for both ritual and cosmetic purposes. Put minced green onions, mustard, lemon juice, salt and pepper in a small mixing bowl and whisk until well blended. Pour in oil slowly, in droplets at first and then in a thin stream, whisking constantly until oil has been emulsified and dressing has thickened thick·en tr. & intr.v. thick·ened, thick·en·ing, thick·ens 1. To make or become thick or thicker: Thicken the sauce with cornstarch. The crowd thickened near the doorway. 2. . Taste and adjust seasonings. Use immediately; if dressing separates while standing, whisk to blend. Use to dress salads. Makes about 2/3 cup. JACQUES' VINAIGRETTE IN A JAR 2 teaspoons chopped garlic 2 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/4 cup red- OR white-wine vinegar 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil OR peanut oil peanut oil n. The oil pressed from peanuts, used for cooking, in soaps, and as a solvent for pharmaceutical preparations. Noun 1. OR a mixture of the two Put all ingredients in a 12-ounce glass jar with a lid. Screw on lid and shake very well. Taste and adjust seasonings, adding more oil or vinegar, as you like. Store in refrigerator up to 2 weeks and shake to blend before using. Use to dress salads. Makes about 1 1/2 cups. JACQUES' FRENCH POTATO SALAD 2 pounds fingerling fingerling young fish. potatoes OR other small waxy waxy (wak´se) 1. composed of or covered by wax. 2. resembling wax, especially denoting some combination of pliability, paleness, and smoothness and luster. potatoes Water 1/2 cup OR so extra-virgin olive oil 1/2 cup 1/4-inch slices green onion, green and white parts 1/2 cup chopped white OR yellow onion Yellow Onion is a variety of dry onion with a strong onion flavor and layers of papery skin, which has a yellow-brown color. It provides a rich onion taste and good choice for food dishes requiring a strong onion flavor, like French onion soup. References 3 cloves garlic, mashed and coarsely chopped (1 1/2 teaspoons) 1/3 cup white wine 1 1/2 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard 2 to 3 tablespoons chopped chives 2 tablespoons OR more coarsely chopped fresh greens OR purple basil, fresh tarragon tarragon (târ`əgŏn), perennial aromatic Old World herb (Artemisia dracunculus) of the family Asteraceae (aster family), of the same genus as wormwood and sagebrush. OR parsley 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more if need 1/2 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper (coarse), plus more if needed Large radicchio ra·dic·chi·o n. pl. ra·dic·chi·os Any of several varieties of chicory, having red or red-spotted leaves that form globose or elongated heads. leaves, about 6, from outside of head 1 or 2 hard-cooked eggs, coarsely chopped Chopped fresh parsley Scrub potatoes and put whole in a saucepan with water to cover by 1/2 inch. Bring water to a boil, reduce heat and cook potatoes gently until just tender when pierced with a sharp knife. Drain immediately and let cool slightly. (Scrape skin from cooked potatoes, if desired, as soon as they can be handled. For a decorative look with fingerlings, scrape off only a band of skin, about 1/2-inch thick, all around long sides of potato.) Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a small saute sau·té tr.v. sau·téed, sau·té·ing, sau·tés To fry lightly in fat in a shallow open pan. n. A dish of food so prepared. pan. When hot, add green onions and onion, toss to coat well and cook about 1 minute over medium-high heat. Add garlic, toss to mix, and cook for just a few moments, then remove pan from heat. Slice potatoes while still warm, cutting them crosswise into 1/2-inch sections. Put pieces in a large mixing bowl, pour wine and 3 or 4 tablespoons olive oil over them, and toss gently to distribute. Add warm vegetables from pan, mustard, chives, chopped herbs, salt and pepper, and gently fold all together, mixing well but not crushing potatoes. Taste salad and add more seasonings as you like. Serve potatoes warm (no colder than room temperature). Arrange large radicchio leaves in a close circle on serving platter, with curved insides up, to form a rough bowl. Spoon potato salad inside leaves, sprinkle chopped egg around edges and parsley over top. Makes 6 cups, 4 to 6 servings. CHOCOLATE POTS DE CREME The term ``pot de creme'' refers both to a soft-baked custard and to the small ceramic pots, often with lids, that they are baked in. If you don't have authentic ``petits pots de creme,'' which only hold 1/3 cup or so, use 4-ounce ramekins without a cover. The custard for this recipe uses the same egg-yolk-and-cream base as for creme brulee, but here it is poured steaming hot over bitter chocolate and stirred until smooth. You can use vanilla and orange peel or add other flavors, like coffee. The custard will be quite soft when it comes out of the oven after only 20 minutes or so, but will set to a luscious creamy consistency in the refrigerator. Enjoy it well chilled. 4 ounces unsweetened chocolate, chopped into small pieces 2 cups heavy whipping cream Noun 1. heavy whipping cream - cream with a fat content of 48% or more double creme cream - the part of milk containing the butterfat 1 teaspoon grated orange peel (optional) 4 large egg yolks 1/3 cup sugar 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla Put chopped chocolate in a large measuring cup or a mixing bowl and set a sieve on top. Pour cream into a medium saucepan, add orange peel and bring to a simmer, then remove from heat. Steep 5 minutes, covered, off heat. Meanwhile, whisk yolks in a bowl, adding sugar gradually. Continue whisking for a minute or more, until yolks are pale yellow, thick and form a ribbon when dropped from whisk. By driblets, pour hot cream into yolks, stirring (not beating) with whisk, until evenly blended. Immediately pour this custard through the sieve over chocolate pieces, removing any coagulated co·ag·u·late v. co·ag·u·lat·ed, co·ag·u·lat·ing, co·ag·u·lates v.tr. To cause transformation of (a liquid or sol, for example) into or as if into a soft, semisolid, or solid mass. v.intr. bits of eggs and stir gently with a large spoon to melt chocolate and blend into custard. Stir in vanilla. Skim off surface bubbles. Arrange 6 (4-ounce) ramekins OR 8 petits pots de creme in a baking pan. Fill each with 1/2 cup custard (less for petits pots) and spoon off any foam or bubbles on surface. Cover cups if you have small lids for them. Set baking pan in oven and pour in hot water to come halfway up ramekins. Bake custards in preheated 350-degree oven about 25 minutes or until tops are just set (if baked uncovered). The custard will still be quite soft. Carefully remove baking pan from oven and lift ramekins from hot water. Let cool briefly, then chill thoroughly in refrigerator, at least 4 hours before serving. Makes 6 (4-ounce) ramekins or 8 petits pots de creme. SPOTLIGHT ON ...JULIA CHILD Age: 87. Profession: Author of 10 cookbooks, television show cooking host and food writer. Hometown: Pasadena. Most popular dish she makes: Hamburgers. Pet peeve: Restaurants that are noisy and where you can't see your food. Ideal vacation: Someplace some·place adv. & n. Somewhere: "I didn't care where I was from so long as it was someplace else" Garrison Keillor. See Usage Note at everyplace. where there is good food and the people are nice. Favorite foods: Baked potatoes, roast chicken, hamburgers, ice cream. Favorite junk food junk food n. Any of various prepackaged snack foods high in calories but low in nutritional value. junk food : Pepperidge Farm Gold Fish. Food she hates: Badly cooked food. Secret food passion: Caviar and foie gras. Favorite things to cook and eat: Chicken, fish, fresh green peas. Favorite kitchen gadgets: K5A mixer (KitchenAid), food processor. Favorite restaurant: ``The one where they know me.'' What does she do when not cooking?: Writes, studies and sees friends. If she couldn't be a cookbook author and television cooking show host, what would she be?: ``Dead. I love my work.'' Worst kitchen disaster: While living in France, she had a Bastille Day party and made two different pates and a shoulder of veal. When the party was over, her brother-in-law was cleaning up and threw all the garbage into a beautiful pot full of homemade stock that she had set on the kitchen floor. It was ruined. ``I've never gotten over that.'' If she could dine with anyone (current or historical) who would it be?: Georges Auguste Escoffier, the famous French chef. Most memorable meal: At Moulin de Mougins The Moulin de Mougins is a celebrated restaurant, situated in an abandoned mill (moulin) in the inland French Riviera town of Mougins. Founding chef Roger Vergé made the restaurant's name renowned with his novel and light Cuisine de Soleil. , Roger Verge's restaurant in the South of France South of France south n the South of France → le Sud de la France, le Midi ; also at the old Le Cirque in New York (Child says the new Le Cirque is not as cozy). The worst part of her business or of being a chef is: Getting up early for morning television to have her makeup and hair done. SPOTLIGHT ON ... JACQUES PEPIN Age: 63. Profession: Pepin, a French-trained chef, has written 20 cookbooks, including ``Cooking at Home'' with Julia Child. He is also the dean of special programs at the French Culinary Institute  This article or section is written like an .Please help [ rewrite this article] from a neutral point of view. Mark blatant advertising for , using . in New York, a cooking teacher, food columnist and television cooking show host. From 1956 to 1958, he was the personal chef to three French heads of state, including Charles de Gaulle. Hometown: Bourg-en-Bresse, France (near Lyon). Cooking style: Although Pepin said that journalists have described his cooking in a variety of ways over the years, he describes himself as a purely American cook. ``When my mother, who is 84 and was a restaurant chef (his parents owned Le Pelican restaurant in France), comes to visit me at my home in Madison, Conn., and I cook for her, she says my cooking is not French.'' Pepin has lived in the United States for 40 years. Most popular dishes he makes: Roast chicken, leek soup, pate, paella. Favorite foods: Fish, pasta, meat, rice, vegetables, soup. Favorite junk food: Burger King french fries and his own hamburgers. Foods he dislikes: Marsmallows. ``Also, I'm not much into gooey See GUI. sweets.'' Secret food passion: Dark, bittersweet bittersweet, name for two unrelated plants, belonging to different families, both fall-fruiting woody vines sometimes cultivated for their decorative scarlet berries. chocolate. Favorite kitchen gadget: His own hands. He uses them as a strainer, crusher or whatever. Pet peeve: ``People who pick at the food on your plate; and people who shove stuff in your mouth from their own plate because they think you should taste everything. I don't like people who are too intense and don't enjoy the moment.'' Favorite cookbook: One by Georges Auguste Escoffier, famous French chef, and ``LaRousse Gastronomique.'' Ideal vacation: Guadeloupe in the Caribbean, where he spends three weeks in January drinking rum, playing bocce (ball), swimming, eating and sleeping. Favorite restaurant: Currently Spago, Beverly Hills. Favorite thing to cook and eat: Soup, roast or something made from what's in his vegetable and herb garden. What does he do when not cooking?: Goes mushrooming. He picks 300 pounds of 29 varieties of mushrooms each summer. He also reads, swims and paints. (There's currently a show of his paintings in New York.) If he couldn't be a chef or cookbook author, what would he be?: A butcher or a surgeon. Worst kitchen disaster: A number of years ago, he did a souffle souffle /souf·fle/ (soo´f'l) a soft, blowing auscultatory sound. cardiac souffle any cardiac or vascular murmur of a blowing quality. demonstration in San Diego during a food show. He put the souffles in the oven to bake and vacated the stage while others cooked. When he came back 30 minutes later, he discovered the oven was set on self-cleaning (not baking) and the temperature inside was 750 degrees F. ``I have never seen such a black (and burned) souffle. I received a standing ovation - everyone was very happy.'' If he could dine with anyone (current or historical) who would it be?: Albert Camus. Most memorable meal: ``It has to do with family and remembrance - and the place, time, memories - not just the food.'' The worst part of being a chef is: Doing the dishes. CAPTION(S): 7 photos, 2 boxes PHOTO (1 -- color) no caption (Julia Child and Jacques Pepin) (2 -- 4 -- color) Diners at KCET's special evening with Julia Child and Jacques Pepin were served dishes from their new series and cookbook, ``Cooking at Home'' including Steak Au Poivre, Julia's Leek and Potato Soup, and Salmon in Potato Case with Tomato Coulis Gus Ruelas/Staff Photographer (5) Julia Child and Jacques Pepin's ``Cooking at Home'' KCET fund-raiser ended with Pears in Chocolate Sauce. Gus Ruelas/Staff Photographer (6) Julia Child (7) Jacques Pepin BOX: (1) Spotlight on ... Julia Child (see text) (2) Spotlight on ... Jacques Pepin (see text) |
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